Climbs 120
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Faces S

Belaying on multi-pitch at Clecy. © Luke Brooks

Crag features

The crag is situated in the "Rocher des Parcs" near the village of Clecy (approx 35 km South of Caen and approx 22 km West of Falaise) in the Calvados region of Normandy (an area known as the Suisse Normande). The crag occupies a picturesque setting above the west bank of the river Orne.

Routes vary from F3 to F7c and from 1 to 3 pitches.
(19 at F3/3+, 33 at F4a/b/c, 362 at F5a/b/c, 44 at F6a/b/c and 7 at F7a/b/c). Rock is described as puddingstone or quartzite by people, I'd describe it as blocky metamorphic stuff with layers of quartz pebbles occasionally. Bolting consists of glue-in rings, the spacings of which are mostly generous and only sometimes is it a bit bold. Belays are either chains or pairs of larger rings to facilitate abseils. The regular bolts are too small to ab off so take care in planning so you dont have to abandon gear. There are a lot more Ab belays than the topos show. The guidebook says to use a 70m rope and 12 quickdraws, but a single 50m is fine for 85% of the routes as long as you don't mind doing the odd extra abseil. Most routes have the names painted at the base.

The guidebook (topo) "Escalade a Clecy" (2012) by the Club Alpin Francais is available for 10 euros from the Tourist Information in Clecy village square.

If anyone local wants to take over moderating this crag then please do, my only qualification is one visit and a guidebook :-)

Approach notes

Clecy is situated on the D562 (which runs South from Caen, approx 30 - 40 minutes drive) or 100 miles from St.Malo. Drive into the village and follow the signs for "Camping Rocher des Parcs". There is limited parking on the far side of the village (approx 6 cars) outside the campsite. Opposite the entrance to the campsite a track leads up to a railway bridge, take the steps up to the disused railway and then rightwards over the bridge and along it to a footpath (green post) to the crag just before the viaduct (10 minutes).

Alternatively, drive down to the viaduct where there is more parking, follow the track on foot under the viaduct and take the well worn path to the left shortly after the viaduct. After ~500m up the hill you will come across the first buttress. The crag is situated above the river opposite the Centre Nautique. There is a clear map (OS style) in the front of the guidebook.

Reasonably priced camping is available at the Camping Rocher Des Parcs, the entrance to which is directly opposite the start of the path up to the crag.

Guidebook is very good - still available in the Tourist information in Clecy. The local activity centre has built a high ropes course across the middle half of the crag none too sensitively from around the top of Toboggan wall to Pagode wall. It doesn't appear to obstruct any climbs but beware of groups when topping out on some climbs. On nice days crag can be busy with groups of 30+ young people under instruction from the centre but it's big enough so you can wander up the other end for some (relative) peace.
Angrypenguin - 28/Jul/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Les Plaques 
2La Dalle du bout du monde6a+  
3Le Doigt de Dieu
-
4a 2
4La Mégère
-
5c 1
5L'Envolée
-
4a 1
6L'Avionnée
-
4b 1
7L'Avoinée
-
4a 3
8La Maurice
-
3+ 10
9La Bis
-
4c 20
10La Bis directe6a *6
11La Dalle du Frustre
-
4c 13
 Les DÉlices du Diable 
13La Dalle Des Debutants3 4
14Le Premier Pilier5c 1
15Le Premier Pilier direct6a  
16La Lorenzo
-
7b  
17Les Délices du Diable
-
6b+ *1
18L'Annie
-
6b *1
19La Tire-Bouchon5c **3
 Toboggan 
21Testa di Catzo6b  
22La Rallye 67
-
6c  
23Le COB
-
5b **5
24Dust in the wind
-
6b *2
25Les Coins de bois
-
6a *1
26DTC Club6b+  
27Phoebe
-
7c  
28La Souris4a 10
29La Dalle de la Souris
-
4c 16
30La Résurrection
-
4c 13
31Le Pilier Des Cathares
-
3+ 5
32Le Toboggan4c *17
33Podoko
-
3+ 5
 Beaujolaise 
35La Boîte aux lettres4a  
36Les Quatre pitons6a+ 1
37Les Reflets d'illusion
-
6c  
38Les Chemins du futur
-
7b+  
39La Source
-
5c 2
40L'Ombilic
-
3+ 4
41La Beaujolaise
-
5b 3
42Chercheur d'air6b+  
43Scro-gneu-gneu7a  
44Nec+
-
7a  
45Kiki le gendarme
-
6a  
 Grands Surplombs 
47Génération 907a  
48L'Œil du prophète6b+  
49La Voiturette3+ 2
50Les Grands Surplombs
-
6b 1
51Ticket pour un taquet
-
7c  
52Dressitude
-
6c  
53La Couronne
-
3+  
 Pagode 
55L'Inconnue5c 2
56La Pagode5c ***2
57Loreleï5b  
58La Stéph1  
59Le Deuxieme Pilier5c 1
 Cataracte 
61L'Escapade 23+ 3
62La Débandade3+ 2
63Verouille... La Rouille3 7
64La Cataracte
-
6a  
65La Tardive6c 1
66La Tarte Aux Pommes4a 15
67Chocolate4c 13
68La Galette4b 15
 Francoise 
70Nicole avale4c *5
71La Francoise5a *7
72La Glücke4c 2
73La Pollux5b *3
 Reposante 
75Eh! Ben voillà!!!3+ 5
76J'Vous Dis Moi J'ouurs Dis4c **10
77La Reposante3+ 11
78La Reposante Direct4a 8
79La Veronique5c ***15
80La Dalle Des Parisiens6a ***7
81Les Moutardiers
-
6a 2
82Neuneuil5b 7
83L'Archiduchesse6a **5
84L'Archiduc5c **8
85La Grosse fourre5b  
86Coco style6a 1
 Essaim 
88Le Kyste et la mite
-
5a 8
89L'Ondee
-
5c *12
90La Voie de Son Maitre3+ ***9
91L'Essaim
-
5b 15
92Les Seins5c 3
93Le Troisième pilier
-
5c  
94No man's land
-
5b  
95La Somnambule
-
3+  
 Le LÉthÉ 
97La Dalle des masochistes
-
4c  
98Le Dièdre aux Oiseaux
-
4c 2
99Le Dièdre Vert
-
4a 4
100Le Léthé
-
6a 1
 Chartreuse 
102La Chartreuse
-
4c 12
103la Chartreuse supérieure
-
5b 7
104Le Bénitier6a 6
 La Noire 
106L'Os à moelle6c+  
107La Biscotte
-
6c  
108La Noire
-
5c  
109La Noire Directe
-
6a *3
110Sans doigt, ni loi
-
6c  
111Indiansong
-
6a+ *1
112Le Petit Jardin4c 4
113Psychose
-
6c  
 Z 
115La K-Fist
-
4c 6
116La Z
-
6a 3
117Monsieur Ouille
-
6a 3
118La Groose et le vampire
-
5b 3
119La Chimpanzodrome
-
5a 7
120La Padeniak
-
4b 5
121La Der Miche
-
4c 3
122L'AOC
-
5c  
 FrontiÉre 
124La Brioche
-
6b  
125Fissure Laville
-
6a  
126Un Chambreur chambré
-
6a  
127Bellevue
-
5b  
128La Cathie
-
5a  

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