Climbs 120 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 42m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The crag is situated in the "Rocher des Parcs" near the village of Clecy (approx 35 km South of Caen and approx 22 km West of Falaise) in the Calvados region of Normandy (an area known as the Suisse Normande). The crag occupies a picturesque setting above the west bank of the river Orne.

Routes vary from F3 to F7c and from 1 to 3 pitches.

(19 at F3/3+, 33 at F4a/b/c, 362 at F5a/b/c, 44 at F6a/b/c and 7 at F7a/b/c). Rock is described as puddingstone or quartzite by people, I'd describe it as blocky metamorphic stuff with layers of quartz pebbles occasionally. Bolting consists of glue-in rings, the spacings of which are mostly generous and only sometimes is it a bit bold. Belays are either chains or pairs of larger rings to facilitate abseils. The regular bolts are too small to ab off so take care in planning so you dont have to abandon gear. There are a lot more Ab belays than the topos show. The guidebook says to use a 70m rope and 12 quickdraws, but a single 50m is fine for 85% of the routes as long as you don't mind doing the odd extra abseil. Most routes have the names painted at the base.

The guidebook (topo) "Escalade a Clecy" (2012) by the Club Alpin Francais is available for 10 euros from the Tourist Information in Clecy village square.

If anyone local wants to take over moderating this crag then please do, my only qualification is one visit and a guidebook :-)

Approach notes

Clecy is situated on the D562 (which runs South from Caen, approx 30 - 40 minutes drive) or 100 miles from St.Malo. Drive into the village and follow the signs for "Camping Rocher des Parcs". There is limited parking on the far side of the village (approx 6 cars) outside the campsite. Opposite the entrance to the campsite a track leads up to a railway bridge, take the steps up to the disused railway and then rightwards over the bridge and along it to a footpath (green post) to the crag just before the viaduct (10 minutes).

Alternatively, drive down to the viaduct where there is more parking, follow the track on foot under the viaduct and take the well worn path to the left shortly after the viaduct. After ~500m up the hill you will come across the first buttress. The crag is situated above the river opposite the Centre Nautique. There is a clear map (OS style) in the front of the guidebook.

Reasonably priced camping is available at the Camping Rocher Des Parcs, the entrance to which is directly opposite the start of the path up to the crag.

Escalade à Clécy (2012)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
65La Tardive6c 1
66La Tarte Aux Pommes4a 15
67Chocolate4c 12
68La Galette4b 15
70Nicole avale4c *5
71La Francoise5a *7
72La Glücke4c 2
73La Pollux5b *3
75Eh! Ben voillà!!!3+ 5
76J'Vous Dis Moi J'ouurs Dis4c **10
77La Reposante3+ 11
78La Reposante Direct4a 8
79La Veronique5c ***14
80La Dalle Des Parisiens6a ***6
81Les Moutardiers6a 2
82Neuneuil5b 7
83L'Archiduchesse6a **5
84L'Archiduc5c **7
85La Grosse fourre5b  
86Coco style6a 1
88Le Kyste et la mite5a 8
89L'Ondee5c *11
90La Voie de Son Maitre3+ ***9
91L'Essaim5b 13
92Les Seins5c 3
93Le Troisième pilier5c  
94No man's land5b  
95La Somnambule3+  
97La Dalle des masochistes4c  
98Le Dièdre aux Oiseaux4c 2
99Le Dièdre Vert4a 4
100Le Léthé6a 1
102La Chartreuse4c 12
103la Chartreuse supérieure5b 7
104Le Bénitier6a 6
106L'Os à moelle6c+  
107La Biscotte6c  
108La Noire5c  
109La Noire Directe6a *3
110Sans doigt, ni loi6c  
111Indiansong6a+ *1
112Le Petit Jardin4c 4
115La K-Fist4c 6
116La Z6a 3
117Monsieur Ouille6a 3
118La Groose et le vampire5b 3
119La Chimpanzodrome5a 7
120La Padeniak4b 5
121La Der Miche4c 3
124La Brioche6b  
125Fissure Laville6a  
126Un Chambreur chambré6a  
128La Cathie5a  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Angrypenguin

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Guidebook is very good - still available in the Tourist information in Clecy. The local activity centre has built a high ropes course across the middle half of the crag none too sensitively from around the top of Toboggan wall to Pagode wall. It doesn't appear to obstruct any climbs but beware of groups when topping out on some climbs. On nice days crag can be busy with groups of 30+ young people under instruction from the centre but it's big enough so you can wander up the other end for some (relative) peace.
Angrypenguin - 28/Jul/14