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These details were last updated on 02/Jun/2014

Clecy

Basse Normandie, FRANCE

Climbs 120 – Rocktype Basalt – Altitude 42m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Situated in the "Rocher des Parcs" near the village of Clecy (approx 35 km South of Caen and approx 22 km West of Falaise) in the Calvados region of Normandy (an area known as the Suisse Normande). The crag occupies a picturesque setting above the west bank of the river Orne.

Routes vary from F3 to F7c and from 1 to 3 pitches.

(16 at F3, 26 at F4, 32 at F5, 40 at F6 and 6 at F7). Rock is described as puddingstone or quartzite by people, I'd describe it as blocky metamorphic stuff with layers of quartz pebbles occasionally. Bolting consists of glue-in rings, the spacings of which are sometimes not exactly sensible - you need to be a bit bold or careful on some sections. Belays are either chains or pairs of larger rings to facilitate abseils. There are a lot more Ab belays than the topos show. The guidebook says to use a 70m rope, but a single 50m is fine as long as you don't mind doing the odd extra abseil. Most routes have the names painted at the base.

The guidebook (topo) "Escalade a Clecy" (2012) by the Club Alpin Francais is available for 10 euros from the Tourist Information in Clecy village square.

If anyone wants to take over moderating this crag then please do, I only did it to get the crag in the database :-)

Access notes
Clecy is situated on the D562 (which runs South from Caen, approx 30 - 40 minutes drive) or 100 miles from St.Malo. Drive into the village and follow the signs for "Camping Rocher des Parcs". There is limited parking on the far side of the village (approx 6 cars) outside the campsite. Opposite the entrance to the campsite a track leads up to a railway bridge, take the steps up to the disused railway and then rightwards over the bridge and along it to a footpath (green post) to the crag just before the viaduct (10 minutes). Alternatively, drive down to the viaduct where there is more parking, and a quick scramble up the side of the viaduct gets you to the railway line. Then follow the path to the crag as before. The crag is situated above the river opposite the Centre Nautique. There is a clear map (OS style) in the front of the guidebook.

Reasonably priced camping is available at the Camping Rocher Des Parcs, the entrance to which is directly opposite the start of the path up to the crag.

Guidebooks
Escalade à Clécy (2012)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1La Tarte Aux Pommes4a 6
2La Galette4a 6
3La Reposante Direct *4a 8
4la chartreuse,rochers des parc *5c 2
5l'ondee,parc des rochers *5c 2
6Eh! Ben Voilla!!! *3+ 4
7La Dalle du Frustre *4c 8
8Les Moutardiers *6a 1
9La Dalle Des Debutants *3 4
10La Bis (variant) *4a 6
11La Maurice (variant) *4a 9
12La Der Miche *4c 3
13La Padeniak *4c 3
14La Chimpanzodrome *5a 6
15Verouille... La Rouille *3 4
16La K-Fist *4c 4
17Chocolate *4c 4
18La Souris *4a 8
19La Dalle de la Souris *4c 12
20La Resurection *4c 9
21Le Petit Jardin *4c 4
22La Reposante *3 10
23la Chartreuse variant *5c 2
24les delices du diable *6b+ *1
25L'Annie *6b *1
26Dust in the wind *6b *2
27Les Coins de bois *6a *1
28La Bis directe *6c *4
29Le Toboggan *3+ *14
30Les Quatres pitons *6a+ 1
31Les Grands Surplombs *6b 1
32La Tardive *6c 1
33J'Vous Dis Moi J'ouurs Dis *4c **8
34La Dalle Des Parisiens *6a ***6
35L'ondee *5c *5
36La Voie de Son Maitre *3+ ***7
37La Noire Directe *6a *2
 Climb nameGradex
38Indiansong *6a+ *1
39Podoko *3 4
40Le Pilier Des Cathares *3+ 3
41Le Kyste et la Mite *5a 3
42La Voiturette *3+ 2
43La Chartreuse *4c 6
44Le Diedre aux Oiseaux *4c 2
45L'Ombilic *3 4
46La Francoise *5a *2
47La Pollux *5c *3
48L'archiduc *5c **6
49La Veronique *5c ***9
50La Bis *4c 9
51La Beaujolaise *5a 3
52L'Archiduchesse *6b **3
53L'Essaim *5a 6
54La Z *6a 3
55Le Diedre Vert *4a 2
56La Source *5c 2
57Mr Ouille *5a 2
58La grosse et le vampire *5a 1
59La Tire-Bouchon *5c **2
60Le Benitier *6a 2
61Le 1er Pilier Directe *6a  
62La Cataracte *6a  
63L'Inconnue *5c 1
64Neuneuil *5a 1
65La Groose et le Vampire *5a 1
66Le C.o.b *5c **3
67Le Premier Pilier a Gauche *5c 1
68La Pagode *5c ***2
69Le Deuxieme Pilier avec le Surplomb *5c 1
70Le Lethe *6a 1
71L'Avoinée *4a 1
72Coco style *6a 1
73Nicole avale *4c *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Guidebook is very good - still available in the Tourist information in Clecy. The local activity centre has built a high ropes course across the middle half of the crag none too sensitively from around the top of Toboggan wall to Pagode wall. It doesn't appear to obstruct any climbs but beware of groups when topping out on some climbs. On nice days crag can be busy with groups of 30+ young people under instruction from the centre but it's big enough so you can wander up the other end for some (relative) peace.
Angrypenguin - 28/Jul/14