Hound Tor

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Access notes
From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE PERCHED BLOCK AREA 
2Kisvaen CornerE3 6a
3The HobbitE5 6b
4Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a
5Perched Block ChimneyM
6Hob Hound EasyVD
7HobhoundE3 5b
8HobbleE5 6c
9Toltec TwostepE5 6b ***
10Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c
11Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***
12Cantilever DirectHS 4b
13Cantilever CrackVS 4c
14Last FlingerE1 5c
15JanelleHS 4b *
16P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 6a
17P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 5c **
18Wall on slopersV1
19P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 3c
20P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 4c
21P12 (Javu)VB 4c
22FogouVS 4c *
23P13 (Javu)V0- 4a
24Skin Graft TooVB ??
25P15 (Javu)V0 5c
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b
27P19 (Javu)none 4c
28P 22 (Javu)VB 4c
 SHORT WALL S OF PERCHED BLOCK 
30P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Cracknone 4c
31P10 (Javu)V4 6b
32P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 6b
33P28 (Javu) Back Wallnone 5a *
 SHORT ARETE BLOCK 
35P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 6b ***
36P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit StartV4 6b **
37P26 (javu) Short Block R AreteV0 5a
38P27 (Javu) R to L Traverse into Short AreteV5 6a/b
 SHARKS FIN AREA 
40Shark's MouthV4
41P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 5a
42P30 (Javu)V3 6a *
43Shark's FinV1 5c ***
44Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 5b ***
45WishV5 6b
46The Wish (low start)V7 6c
47WISH-ISH !!V2 *
48MakoV11
49P34 (javu) high TraverseV7
50P36 (Javu)V0 5c
51P37 (Javu)V1 5c
52Barnaby's CrackV2 6a
53Ozzie's WallHS 4b **
54P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 6a **
55Problem: 42 (Javu)none 6a **
 TOP HAT AREA 
57Problem: 44 (Javu)S 4a *
58Top HatM
59P45 (Javu)none 4a
60P46 (Javu) Back RH Wallnone 5a
61P47 (Javu)none 4b
62P48 (Javu)none 4c
63P49 (Javu) L Wall Aretenone 5a
64P50 (Javu) Diagonal Cracknone 3c **
65P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal CrackVB 3c
66Pr52 (Javu)none 5c
67Project P: 53 (Javu)none
68P54 (Javu)V2 6a
 AEROBIC WALL 
70Aerobic WallE2 5c **
71P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a
72Limbo DancerE4 5c *
73P58 (Javu)E4 6a
74P59 (Javu)E3 5b
75Aerobic TraverseV2 5c **
 SKIN GRAFT BOULDER 
77Skin GraftV2 5c *
78CosmetixV5 6b *
 5C WALL AREA 
80P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 4c
81P63 (Javu) SS L Aretenone 6b
82P64 (Javu)V0 5a
83P65 (Javu) ProwV3 6a **
84Left edge 5c WallVB 4b
855c WallV1 5b **
86P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 6b
87Filet MignonVB 4a *
88Chav-WagonV1 5b *
89The HornV1 5c **
90Little Prow TraverseV5 6b/c *
 ANAEROBIC WALL 
92P69 (Javu) Left Wallnone 5a
93Anaerobic WallE1 5c **
94Anaerobic AreteE2 6a
95P72 (Javu)none 5b
96P73 (Javu)none 5b
 TOP OF THE TOR 
98P74 (Javu)V1 5c
99Top ProwV3 6a **
100William CrossingV5 6b
101P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 6a
 THE LITTLE PROW AREA 
103Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *
104ProwlerVS 5a
105Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 5c **
106Little ProwE1 5c *
107ProwedV5 6b **
108P81 (Javu) Prowed Dynonone 6b
109P82 (Javu)V0 5b
110P84 (Javu)V6 6c
111ScornE4 6a
112P87 (Javu)V0 5b
 THE PULPIT BLOCK 
114Stegadacea ChimneyD
115Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a
116AvariceE3 5c *
117Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *
118Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **
119Right ChimneyVD
120The ViceHVD *
121PaddyM
122PulpitVD
123DevonleighHVD **
124P91 (Javu)HS 5a *
 LIARS DICE WALL 
126Liars DiceS 4a *
127P93 (Javu)HVS 4c
128Liar's areteVD
129P94 (Javu)HS 4b
130P95 (Javu)V1 5c *
131P96 (Javu)none 6b
 THE SHADY SIDE OF THE AVENUE 
133Downward BoundE2 5c *
134Rob's Cracknone 5b
135Rob's Bum Cracknone 5c
136P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- 4c ***
137P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *
138P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm Rnone 4c
139It Goes at About VdiffVD
 FULL MOON SECTOR 
141P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 5b **
142P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 6a *
143P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 6a
144P104 (Javu) Rounded Wallnone 4c
145Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c
146Full MoonE3 5c *
 THE TUPPY BOULDER 
148P107 (Javu)V4 6b
149TuppyV9 6c
150P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 6b
151The Barrell RockoverV5 6b *
152Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 6c *
153?V8 **
 THE DARK HALF 
155Skuzz BucketE4 6a *
156Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *
157Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c
158P112 (Javu)V3 6a
159Alan SmithV9 7a *
160Project P: 115 (Javu)none
161The Cream TraverseV8 6c **
162The NewtD
163BICTON!!!f6B+ ***
164The Savile FeelingE5 6b *
165Wall on slopers sit start *f6B
166Groove *f4
167Arete *f4
168Easy Wall *f4
169Arête (Boulder Britain - Route 1) *f4
170Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) *f4
171Groove (Boulder Britain - Route 5) *f4
172Wall on Stoppers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) *f6A+
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer David Llewellyn

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07