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These details were last updated on 22/Jul/2014

Hound Tor

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Access notes
From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
21 kph

1.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
23 kph

5.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
18 kph

1.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
17 kph

0.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
20 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE PERCHED BLOCK AREA  
2Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
3The HobbitE5 6b  
4Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 111
5Perched Block ChimneyM 41
6Hob Hound EasyVD 9
7HobhoundE3 5b 27
8HobbleE5 6c  
9Toltec TwostepE5 6b ***13
10Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
11Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***712
12Cantilever DirectHS 4b 50
13Cantilever CrackVS 4c 75
14JanelleHS 4b *10
15Last FlingerHVS 6a 36
16P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 6a 22
17P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 5c **67
18Wall on slopersV1 33
19P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 3c 107
20P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 4c 105
21P12 (Javu)VB 4c 16
22FogouVS 4c *46
23P13 (Javu)V0- 4a 16
24Skin Graft TooVB ?? 2
25P15 (Javu)V0 5c 5
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b 15
27P19 (Javu)none 4c 7
28P 22 (Javu)VB 4c 26
 SHORT WALL S OF PERCHED BLOCK  
30P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Cracknone 4c 62
31P10 (Javu)V4 6b 9
32P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 6b 5
33P28 (Javu) Back Wallnone 5a *10
 SHORT ARETE BLOCK  
35P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 6b ***31
36P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit StartV4 6b **8
37P26 (javu) Short Block R AreteV0 5a 16
38P27 (Javu) R to L Traverse into Short AreteV5 6a/b 5
 SHARKS FIN AREA  
40Shark's MouthV4 2
41P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 5a 154
42P30 (Javu)V3 6a *84
43Shark's FinV1 5c ***337
44Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 5b ***48
45WishV5 6b 40
46The Wish (low start)V7 6c 4
47WISH-ISH !!V2 *4
48MakoV11 2
49P34 (javu) high TraverseV7 3
50P36 (Javu)V0 5c 23
51P37 (Javu)V1 5c 12
52Barnaby's CrackV2 6a 4
53Ozzie's WallHS 4b **22
54P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 6a **6
55Problem: 42 (Javu)none 6a **5
 TOP HAT AREA  
57Problem: 44 (Javu)S 4a *37
58Top HatM 32
59P45 (Javu)none 4a 50
60P46 (Javu) Back RH Wallnone 5a 40
61P47 (Javu)none 4b 50
62P48 (Javu)none 4c 46
63P49 (Javu) L Wall Aretenone 5a 35
64P50 (Javu) Diagonal Cracknone 3c **65
65P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal CrackVB 3c 36
66Pr52 (Javu)none 5c 11
67Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
68P54 (Javu)V2 6a 9
 AEROBIC WALL  
70Aerobic WallE2 5c **293
71P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 5
72Limbo DancerE4 5c *44
73P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
74P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
75Aerobic TraverseV2 5c **65
 SKIN GRAFT BOULDER  
77Skin GraftV2 5c *80
78CosmetixV5 6b *40
 5C WALL AREA  
80P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 4c 50
81P63 (Javu) SS L Aretenone 6b 24
82P64 (Javu)V0 5a 56
83P65 (Javu) ProwV3 6a **58
84Left edge 5c WallVB 4b 1
855c WallV1 5b **179
86P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 6b 30
87Filet MignonVB 4a *6
 Climb nameGradex
88Chav-WagonV1 5b *9
89The HornV1 5c **120
90Little Prow TraverseV5 6b/c *14
 ANAEROBIC WALL  
92P69 (Javu) Left Wallnone 5a 7
93Anaerobic WallE1 5c **60
94Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 43
95P72 (Javu)none 5b 6
96P73 (Javu)none 5b 4
 TOP OF THE TOR  
98P74 (Javu)V1 5c 2
99Top ProwV3 6a **9
100William CrossingV5 6b 1
101P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 6a 2
 THE LITTLE PROW AREA  
103ProwlerVS 5a 114
104Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 5c **104
105Little ProwE1 5c *78
106ProwedV5 6b **43
107P81 (Javu) Prowed Dynonone 6b 3
108P82 (Javu)V0 5b 34
109P84 (Javu)V6 6c 4
110Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *4
111ScornE4 6a 7
112P87 (Javu)V0 5b 7
 THE PULPIT BLOCK  
114Stegadacea ChimneyD 36
115Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 3
116AvariceE3 5c * 
117Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *165
118Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **1
119Hydraulic bypassHVS 5a ** 
120Right ChimneyVD 30
121The ViceVD *284
122PaddyM 350
123PulpitVD 400
124P91 (Javu)HS 5a *68
125DevonleighHVD **240
 LIARS DICE WALL  
127Liars DiceS 4a *641
128P93 (Javu)VS 4b 44
129Liar's areteVD 40
130P94 (Javu)HS 4b 38
131P95 (Javu)V1 5c *33
132P96 (Javu)none 6b 10
 THE SHADY SIDE OF THE AVENUE  
134Downward BoundE2 5c *18
135Rob's Cracknone 5b 8
136Rob's Bum Cracknone 5c 5
137P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- 4c ***45
138P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *3
139P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm Rnone 4c 6
140It Goes at About VdiffVD 7
 FULL MOON SECTOR  
142P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 5b **62
143P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 6a *40
144P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 6a 1
145P104 (Javu) Rounded Wallnone 4c 35
146Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
147Full MoonE3 5c *3
 THE TUPPY BOULDER  
149P107 (Javu)V4 6b 3
150TuppyV9 6c 1
151The Barrell RockoverV5 6b *7
152Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 6c * 
153?V8 **7
 THE DARK HALF  
155Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
156Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *2
157Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
158P112 (Javu)V3 6a 2
159P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 6b 5
160Alan SmithV9 7a *9
161Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
162The Cream TraverseV8 6c **14
163The NewtD 4
164BICTON!!!f6B+ ***3
165The Savile Feeling *E5 6b *4
166Wall on slopers sit start *f6B 3
167Groove *f4 4
168Arete *f4 4
169Easy Wall *f4 3
170Arête (Boulder Britain - Route 1) *f4 1
171Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) *f4 2
172Groove (Boulder Britain - Route 5) *f4 3
173Wall on Stoppers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) *f6A+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07

With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07