Hound Tor

Climbs 165 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes
From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE PERCHED BLOCK AREA  
2Perched Block ChimneyM 46
3Hob Hound EasyVD 10
4Toltec TwostepE6 6c **20
5Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
6Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***805
7The Savile FeelingE5 6b *4
8Cantilever DirectHS 4b 56
9Cantilever CrackVS 4c 84
10Last FlingerE1 5c 44
11JanelleHS 4b *12
12P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 6a 28
13P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 5c **86
14P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit StartV3 6a 4
15Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6)V1 5a 49
16Wall on Slopers Sit Startf6B 8
17Groovef4 12
18P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 3c 124
19P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 4c 120
20Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2)f4 10
21Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1)f4 10
22P12 (Javu)VB 4c 20
23P13 (Javu)V0- 4a 20
24FogouVS 4c *50
25P15 (Javu)V0 5c 5
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b 20
27Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
28The HobbitE5 6b  
29Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 121
30Skin Graft TooVB 4a 2
31P19 (Javu)V0+ 4c 8
32HobhoundE3 5b 36
33HobbleE5 6c  
 SHORT WALL SOUTH OF PERCHED BLOCK  
35P9 (Javu) Mid Wall CrackVB 4c 76
36P10 (Javu)V4 6b 11
37P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 6b 7
38P28 (Javu) Back WallV1 5a *13
 SHORT ARETE BLOCK  
40P21 (Javu)V4 6b 1
41Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6A+ 1
42Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6B 1
43Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10)f6B  
44P 22 (Javu)VB 4c 30
45P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 6b ***35
46P24(Javu) Short L ArÍte Sit StartV4 6b **9
47P25 (Javu)V4 6b 4
48P26 (Javu)V0 5a 22
49P27 (Javu)V5 6a/b 5
 SHARKS FIN AREA  
51P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 5a 186
52P30 (Javu)V3 6a *105
53WishV5 6b 51
54The Wish (Low Start)V6 6c 6
55Shark's FinV1 5c ***389
56Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 5b ***60
57Wish-ish !V2 5b *6
58P34 (javu) High TraverseV7 3
59P35 (Javu)V6 6b/c  
60MakoV11 2
61The Shark Fin GirdleV0 4c 1
62P36 (Javu)V0 5c 25
63P37 (Javu)V1 5c 14
64P38 (Javu)VB 3c  
65Barnaby's CrackV2 6a 4
66P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 6a **6
67Problem: 42 (Javu)V3 6a **6
68Ozzie's WallHS 4b **27
69Bicton!V5 6b ***3
 TOP HAT AREA  
71Problem: 44 (Javu)V0- 4a *44
72Top HatM 36
73P45 (Javu)V0- 4a 58
74P46 (Javu)V0 5a 49
75P47 (Javu)V0- 4b 57
76P48 (Javu)V0- 4c 55
77P49 (Javu) L Wall AreteV0 5a 44
78P49b (Javu)V2 5b 1
79P50 (Javu) Diagonal CrackVB 3c **81
80P51 (Javu) ArÍte L of Diagonal CrackVB 3c 47
81P52 (Javu)V2 5c 12
82Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
83P54 (Javu)V3 6a 9
 AEROBIC WALL  
85Aerobic WallE2 5c *342
86P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 7
87Limbo DancerE4 5c **46
88P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
89P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
90Aerobic TraverseV2 5c **81
 SKIN GRAFT BOULDER  
92Skin GraftV2 5c *94
93CosmetixV5 6b *51
 5C WALL AREA  
95P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 4c 63
96P63 (Javu) SS L AreteV4 6b 32
97P64 (Javu)V0 5a 67
98P65 (Javu) ProwV3 6a **66
99Left edge 5c WallVB 4b 3
1005c WallV1 5b **204
101P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 6b 37
102Filet MignonVB 4a *10
103Chav-WagonV1 5b *11
104The HornV1 5c **133
105Little Prow TraverseV5 6b/c *16
 ANAEROBIC WALL  
107P69 (Javu) Left WallV2 5a 11
108Anaerobic CrackE1 5c **76
109Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 46
110P72 (Javu)V2 5b 7
111P73 (Javu)V2 5b 5
 TOP OF THE TOR  
113Cut OffE5 6a 1
114P74 (Javu)V1 5c 3
115Top ProwV3 6a **11
116William CrossingV5 6b 1
117P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 6a 2
118Wall and AreteE2 6a 1
 THE LITTLE PROW AREA  
120Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *5
121ProwlerVS 5a 129
122Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 5c **119
123Little ProwE1 5c *91
124ProwedV5 6b **54
125P81 (Javu) Prowed DynoV7 6b 3
126P82 (Javu)V0 5b 39
127P84 (Javu)V6 6c 5
128ScornE4 6a 10
129P87 (Javu)V0 5b 7
 THE PULPIT BLOCK  
131Stegadacea ChimneyD 41
132Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 5
133AvariceE3 5c * 
134Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *189
135Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **4
136The ViceVD **326
137PulpitHVD *457
138DevonleighHVD **301
139PaddyM **414
140Paddy VariationM 2
141Right ChimneyVD 37
142P91 (Javu)HS 5a *87
 LIARS DICE WALL  
144No DiceMVS 4c 1
145Liars DiceS *726
146P93 (Javu)HVS 4c 48
147Liar's AreteVD 49
148P94 (Javu)HS 4b 46
149P95 (Javu)V1 5c *36
150P96 (Javu)V5 6b 11
 THE SHADY SIDE OF THE AVENUE  
152Downward BoundE2 5c *20
153Rob's CrackV2 5b 9
154Rob's Bum CrackV2 5c 5
155P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- 4c ***51
156P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *4
157P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm RV0+ 4c 7
158It Goes at About VdiffVD 8
 FULL MOON SECTOR  
160P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 5b **74
161P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 6a *53
162P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 6a 5
163P104 (Javu) Rounded WallV0- 4c 46
164Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
165Full MoonE3 5c *4
 THE TUPPY BOULDER  
167P107 (Javu)V4 6b 10
168The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start)V8 **8
169TuppyV9 6c 1
170Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 6c * 
 THE DARK HALF  
172Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
173Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *3
174Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
175P112 (Javu)V3 6a 2
176P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 6b 8
177Alan SmithV9 7a *13
178JayneV7 6c  
179PanyanE4 6b  
180Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
181The Cream TraverseV8 6c **22
182The NewtD 4
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07