Climbs 166
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Perched Block Area 
2Perched Block Chimney
M 47
3Hob Hound EasyVD 11
4Toltec TwostepE6 6c **20
5Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
6Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***901
7The Savile FeelingE5 6b *4
8Cantilever DirectHS 4b 57
9Cantilever CrackVS 4c 86
10Last FlingerE1 5c 45
11JanelleHS 4b *13
12P5 (Javu) Perched Block Aretef6A 28
13P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traversef5+ **92
14P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit Startf6A 7
15Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6)f5 55
16Wall on Slopers Sit Startf6B 14
17Groovef4 15
18P7 (Javu) Layback Crackf3 130
19P8 (Javu) Perched Block Wallf3 125
20Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2)f4 15
21Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1)f4 14
22P12 (Javu)f3 20
23P13 (Javu)
f3+ 20
24FogouVS 4c *51
25P15 (Javu)f4 5
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b 20
27Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
28The HobbitE5 6b  
29Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 124
30Skin Graft Toof3 2
31P19 (Javu)f4+ 8
32HobhoundE3 5b 37
33HobbleE5 6c  
 Short Wall South of Perched Block 
35P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Crackf3 81
36P10 (Javu)f6B 12
37P11 (Javu) Low Traversef6B 7
38P28 (Javu) Back Wallf5 *13
 Short Arete Block 
40P21 (Javu)f6B 1
41Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6A+ 1
42Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6B 1
43Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10)f6B  
44P 22 (Javu)f3 31
45P23 (Javu) Short Left Aretef6B ***35
46P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit Startf6B **10
47P25 (Javu)f6B 5
48P26 (Javu)f4 24
49P27 (Javu)f6C 5
51P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark Linef3+ 194
52P30 (Javu)f6A *111
53Wishf6C 51
54The Wish (Low Start)f7A 6
55Shark's Finf5 ***400
56Sharks Fin Double Dynof5 ***61
57Wish-ish !f5+ *7
58P34 (javu) High Traversef7A+ 3
59P35 (Javu)f7A  
60Makof8A 2
61The Shark Fin Girdlef4 2
62P36 (Javu)f4 26
63P37 (Javu)f5 14
64P38 (Javu)f3  
65Barnaby's Crackf5+ 4
66P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake Crackf5+ **6
67Problem: 42 (Javu)f6A **6
68Ozzie's WallHS 4b **27
69Bicton!f6C ***3
71Problem: 44 (Javu)
f3+ *46
72Top HatM 38
73P45 (Javu)f3+ 60
74P46 (Javu)f4 51
75P47 (Javu)f3+ 60
76P48 (Javu)f3+ 57
77P49 (Javu) L Wall Aretef4 45
78P49b (Javu)f5+ 1
79P50 (Javu) Diagonal Crackf3 **85
80P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal Crackf3 50
81P52 (Javu)f5+ 13
82Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
83P54 (Javu)f6A 9
85Aerobic WallE2 5c *347
86P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 7
87Limbo DancerE4 5c **46
88P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
89P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
90Aerobic Traversef5+ **88
92Skin Graftf5+ *95
93Cosmetixf6C *51
 5C WALL area 
95P62 (Javu) Left Aretef3 64
96P63 (Javu) SS L Aretef6B 36
97P64 (Javu)f4 69
98P65 (Javu) Prowf6A **69
99Left edge 5c Wall
f3 3
1005c Wallf5 **207
101P67 (Javu) Undercut Startf6B 39
102Filet Mignonf3 *11
103Chav-Wagonf5 *12
104The Hornf5 **136
105Little Prow Traversef6C *16
107P69 (Javu) Left Wallf5+ 11
108Anaerobic CrackE1 5c **78
109Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 46
110P72 (Javu)f5+ 7
111P73 (Javu)f5+ 5
113Cut OffE5 6a 1
114P74 (Javu)f5 3
115Top Prowf6A **11
116William Crossingf6C 1
117P77 (Javu) Rounded Traversef5+ 2
118Wall and AreteE2 6a 1
120Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *5
121ProwlerVS 5a 131
122Little Prow (boulder problem)f5+ **124
123Little ProwE1 5c *96
124Prowedf6C **54
125P81 (Javu) Prowed Dynof7A+ 3
126P82 (Javu)
f4 39
127P84 (Javu)f7A 5
128ScornE4 6a 11
129P87 (Javu)
f4 7
 the pulpit block 
131Stegadacea ChimneyD 41
132Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 5
133AvariceE3 5c * 
134Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *194
135Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **4
136The ViceVD **340
137PulpitHVD *482
138DevonleighHVD **331
139PaddyM **429
140Paddy VariationM 2
141Right ChimneyVD 39
142P91 (Javu)HS 5a *91
 liars dice wall 
144No DiceMVS 4c 1
145Liars DiceS *762
146P93 (Javu)HVS 4c 50
147Liar's AreteVD 50
148P94 (Javu)HS 4b 47
149P95 (Javu)f5 *37
150P96 (Javu)
f6C 11
 the shady side of the avenue 
152Downward Bound
E2 5c *20
153Rob's Crackf5+ 10
154Rob's Bum Crackf5+ 5
155P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging Jugsf3+ ***51
156P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startf7A+ *4
157P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm Rf4+ 7
158It Goes at About VdiffVD 8
 full moon sector 
160P102 (Javu) Rounded Aretef5 **75
161P103 (Javu) Low Startf5+ *55
162P102 (Javu) Rounded Break Startf5 6
163P104 (Javu) Rounded Wallf3+ 47
164Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
165Full MoonE3 5c *4
 the tuppy boulder 
167P107 (Javu)f6B 11
168The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start)f7B **10
169Tuppyf7C 1
170Stray Dog (Gone Defective)f7C * 
 the dark half 
172Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
173Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *3
174Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
175P112 (Javu)
f6A 2
176P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand Startf6C 9
177Alan Smithf7C *12
179PanyanE4 6b  
180Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
181The Cream Traversef7B **23
182The Newt
D 4
183One Move Wonder *HS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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