Climbs 167
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 380m a.s.l
Faces SW

a Dartmoor Panorama from Hound Tor © Dan Arkle

Crag features

Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Approach notes

From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Perched Block Area 
2Perched Block ChimneyM 47
3LichenthropeE4 6b  
4Hob Hound EasyVD 11
5Toltec TwostepE6 6c **28
6Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
7Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***909
8The Savile FeelingE5 6b *4
9Cantilever DirectHS 4b 63
10Cantilever CrackVS 4c 86
11Last FlingerE1 5c 45
12JanelleHS 4b *14
13P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 28
14P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 **92
15P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit StartV3 7
16Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6)V1 55
17Wall on Slopers Sit Startf6B 14
18Groovef4 15
19P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 130
20P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 125
21Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2)f4 15
22Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1)f4 14
23P12 (Javu)VB 20
24P13 (Javu)
-
V0- 20
25FogouVS 4c *52
26P15 (Javu)V0 5
27Dead Dog RibE2 5b 20
28Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
29The HobbitE5 6b  
30Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 124
31Skin Graft TooVB 2
32P19 (Javu)V0+ 8
33HobhoundE3 5b 38
34HobbleE5 6c  
 Short Wall South of Perched Block 
36P9 (Javu) Mid Wall CrackVB 81
37P10 (Javu)V4 12
38P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 7
39P28 (Javu) Back WallV1 *13
 Short Arete Block 
41P21 (Javu)V4 1
42Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6A+ 1
43Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6B 1
44Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10)f6B  
45P 22 (Javu)VB 31
46P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 ***36
47P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit StartV4 **10
48P25 (Javu)V4 5
49P26 (Javu)V0 24
50P27 (Javu)V5 5
 Sharks Fin Area 
52P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 194
53P30 (Javu)V3 *111
54WishV5 52
55The Wish (Low Start)V6 6
56Shark's FinV1 ***409
57Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 ***62
58Wish-ish !V2 *8
59P34 (javu) High TraverseV7 3
60P35 (Javu)V6  
61MakoV11 2
62The Shark Fin GirdleV0 3
63P36 (Javu)V0 26
64P37 (Javu)V1 14
65P38 (Javu)VB  
66Barnaby's CrackV2 4
67P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 **6
68Problem: 42 (Javu)V3 **6
69Ozzie's WallHS 4b **28
70Bicton!V5 ***4
 Top Hat Area 
72Problem: 44 (Javu)
-
V0- *46
73Top HatM 39
74P45 (Javu)V0- 60
75P46 (Javu)V0 51
76P47 (Javu)V0- 60
77P48 (Javu)V0- 57
78P49 (Javu) L Wall AreteV0 45
79P49b (Javu)V2 1
80P50 (Javu) Diagonal CrackVB **85
81P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal CrackVB 50
82P52 (Javu)V2 13
83Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
84P54 (Javu)V3 9
 Aerobic Wall 
86Aerobic WallE2 5c *376
87P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 7
88Limbo DancerE4 5c **59
89P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
90P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
91Aerobic TraverseV2 **90
 Skin Graft Boulder 
93Skin GraftV2 *100
94CosmetixV5 *56
 5c Wall Area 
96P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 64
97P63 (Javu) SS L AreteV4 36
98P64 (Javu)V0 69
99P65 (Javu) ProwV3 **70
100Left edge 5c Wall
-
VB 3
1015c WallV1 **212
102P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 39
103Filet MignonVB *11
104Chav-WagonV1 *12
105The HornV1 **136
106Little Prow TraverseV5 *16
 Anaerobic Wall 
108P69 (Javu) Left WallV2 11
109Anaerobic CrackE1 5c **86
110Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 46
111P72 (Javu)V2 7
112P73 (Javu)V2 5
 Top of the Tor 
114Cut OffE5 6a 1
115P74 (Javu)V1 3
116Top ProwV3 **11
117William CrossingV5 1
118P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 2
119Wall and AreteE2 6a 1
 The Little Prow Area 
121Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *5
122ProwlerVS 5a 132
123Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 **125
124Little ProwE1 5c *101
125ProwedV5 **58
126P81 (Javu) Prowed DynoV7 3
127P82 (Javu)
-
V0 39
128P84 (Javu)V6 5
129ScornE4 6a *12
130P87 (Javu)
-
V0 7
 The Pulpit Block 
132Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *196
133Stegadacea ChimneyD 41
134Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 5
135Right ChimneyVD 39
136AvariceE3 5c * 
137Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **4
138The ViceVD **352
139PulpitHVD *478
140DevonleighHVD **334
141PaddyM **434
142Paddy VariationM 2
143P91 (Javu) / One Move WonderHS 5a *98
 Liars Dice Wall 
145No DiceMVS 4c 2
146Liars DiceS *768
147P93 (Javu)HVS 4c 51
148Liar's AreteVD 51
149P94 (Javu)HS 4b 49
150P95 (Javu)V1 *37
151P96 (Javu)
-
V5 11
 The Shady Side of the Avenue 
153Downward BoundE2 5c *20
154Rob's CrackV2 10
155Rob's Bum CrackV2 5
156P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- ***51
157P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *4
158P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm RV0+ 7
159It Goes at About VdiffVD 8
 Full Moon Sector 
161P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 **75
162P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 *55
163P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 7
164P104 (Javu) Rounded WallV0- 47
165Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
166Full MoonE3 5c *4
 The Tuppy Boulder 
168P107 (Javu)V4 11
169The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start)V8 **12
170TuppyV9 1
171Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 * 
 The Dark Half 
173Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
174Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *3
175Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
176Slime TimeHVS 5b  
177P112 (Javu)
-
V3 2
178P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 9
179Alan SmithV9 *19
180JayneV7  
181PanyanE4 6b  
182Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
183The Cream TraverseV8 **27
184The Newt
-
D 4

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