Hound Tor

Climbs 161 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Access notes
From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Guidebooks
Boulder Britain (2011), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE PERCHED BLOCK AREA  
2Perched Block ChimneyM 44
3Hob Hound EasyVD 10
4Toltec TwostepE6 6c **18
5Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
6Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***765
7The Savile FeelingE5 6b *4
8Cantilever DirectHS 4b 52
9Cantilever CrackVS 4c 78
10Last FlingerE1 5c 38
11JanelleHS 4b *10
12P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 6a 26
13P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 5c **80
14P6 (Javu) Perched Block Traverse Sit StartV3 6a 1
15Wall on Slopers (Boulder Britain - Route 6)V1 5a 44
16Wall on Slopers Sit Startf6B 7
17Groovef4 9
18P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 3c 118
19P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 4c 116
20Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2)f4 7
21Arete (Boulder Britain - Route 1)f4 7
22P12 (Javu)VB 4c 18
23P13 (Javu)V0- 4a 18
24FogouVS 4c *49
25P15 (Javu)V0 5c 5
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b 16
27Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
28The HobbitE5 6b  
29Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 119
30Skin Graft TooVB 4a 2
31P19 (Javu)V0+ 4c 8
32HobhoundE3 5b 28
33HobbleE5 6c  
 SHORT WALL SOUTH OF PERCHED BLOCK  
35P9 (Javu) Mid Wall CrackVB 4c 71
36P10 (Javu)V4 6b 9
37P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 6b 5
38P28 (Javu) Back WallV1 5a *11
 SHORT ARETE BLOCK  
40P21 (Javu)V4 6b  
41Nose (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6A+  
42Nose Sit Start (Boulder Britain - Route 8)f6B  
43Traverse (Boulder Britain - Route 10)f6B  
44P 22 (Javu)VB 4c 28
45P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 6b ***33
46P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit StartV4 6b **9
47P25 (Javu)V4 6b 1
48P26 (Javu)V0 5a 20
49P27 (Javu)V5 6a/b 5
 SHARKS FIN AREA  
51P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 5a 176
52P30 (Javu)V3 6a *99
53WishV5 6b 47
54The Wish (Low Start)V6 6c 6
55Shark's FinV1 5c ***372
56Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 5b ***58
57Wish-ish !V2 5b *6
58P34 (javu) High TraverseV7 3
59P35 (Javu)V6 6b/c  
60MakoV11 2
61P36 (Javu)V0 5c 23
62P37 (Javu)V1 5c 13
63P38 (Javu)VB 3c  
64Barnaby's CrackV2 6a 4
65P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 6a **6
66Problem: 42 (Javu)V3 6a **5
67Ozzie's WallHS 4b **24
68Bicton!V5 6b ***3
 TOP HAT AREA  
70Problem: 44 (Javu)V0- 4a *41
71Top HatM 36
72P45 (Javu)V0- 4a 56
73P46 (Javu)V0 5a 46
74P47 (Javu)V0- 4b 55
75P48 (Javu)V0- 4c 52
76P49 (Javu) L Wall AreteV0 5a 41
77P49b (Javu)V2 5b  
78P50 (Javu) Diagonal CrackVB 3c **78
79P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal CrackVB 3c 44
80P52 (Javu)V2 5c 12
81Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
82P54 (Javu)V3 6a 9
 AEROBIC WALL  
84Aerobic WallE2 5c *330
85P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 6
86Limbo DancerE4 5c **45
87P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
88P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
89Aerobic TraverseV2 5c **78
 SKIN GRAFT BOULDER  
91Skin GraftV2 5c *90
92CosmetixV5 6b *49
 5C WALL AREA  
94P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 4c 60
95P63 (Javu) SS L AreteV4 6b 28
96P64 (Javu)V0 5a 64
97P65 (Javu) ProwV3 6a **63
98Left edge 5c WallVB 4b 3
995c WallV1 5b **197
100P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 6b 36
101Filet MignonVB 4a *10
102Chav-WagonV1 5b *11
103The HornV1 5c **129
104Little Prow TraverseV5 6b/c *15
 ANAEROBIC WALL  
106P69 (Javu) Left WallV2 5a 10
107Anaerobic CrackE1 5c **72
108Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 45
109P72 (Javu)V2 5b 6
110P73 (Javu)V2 5b 4
 TOP OF THE TOR  
112P74 (Javu)V1 5c 3
113Top ProwV3 6a **11
114William CrossingV5 6b 1
115P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 6a 2
 THE LITTLE PROW AREA  
117Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *4
118ProwlerVS 5a 121
119Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 5c **114
120Little ProwE1 5c *81
121ProwedV5 6b **52
122P81 (Javu) Prowed DynoV7 6b 3
123P82 (Javu)V0 5b 36
124P84 (Javu)V6 6c 5
125ScornE4 6a 9
126P87 (Javu)V0 5b 7
 THE PULPIT BLOCK  
128Stegadacea ChimneyD 39
129Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 4
130AvariceE3 5c * 
131Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *176
132Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **3
133The ViceVD **317
134PulpitHVD *435
135DevonleighHVD **278
136PaddyM **394
137Right ChimneyVD 38
138P91 (Javu)HS 5a *75
 LIARS DICE WALL  
140Liars DiceS *696
141P93 (Javu)HVS 4c 46
142Liar's AreteVD 45
143P94 (Javu)HS 4b 41
144P95 (Javu)V1 5c *35
145P96 (Javu)V5 6b 10
 THE SHADY SIDE OF THE AVENUE  
147Downward BoundE2 5c *19
148Rob's CrackV2 5b 8
149Rob's Bum CrackV2 5c 5
150P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- 4c ***48
151P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *3
152P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm RV0+ 4c 7
153It Goes at About VdiffVD 7
 FULL MOON SECTOR  
155P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 5b **72
156P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 6a *50
157P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 6a 4
158P104 (Javu) Rounded WallV0- 4c 44
159Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
160Full MoonE3 5c *3
 THE TUPPY BOULDER  
162P107 (Javu)V4 6b 10
163The Barrel Rockover (Sit Start)V8 **8
164TuppyV9 6c 1
165Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 6c * 
 THE DARK HALF  
167Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
168Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *3
169Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
170P112 (Javu)V3 6a 2
171P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 6b 7
172Alan SmithV9 7a *13
173JayneV7 6c  
174PanyanE4 6b  
175Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
176The Cream TraverseV8 6c **18
177The Newt D 4
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07