Hound Tor

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 380m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
Hound Tor is a popular place in the Summer for many reasons.

Firstly it was made famous after Sherlock Holmes encounter here with a grim and fearfull beast that can still be seen on nights of a Full Moon. In recent times its popularity stems from its sheep trimmed lawns which are a Picnicing Paradise (great place for the family while you climb), the local car park (with "The Hound of the Basketmeals" mobile cafe) and the views from the summit, all of which bring holidaymakers from far and wide.

After giving up on finding Stegadacea Chimney, the Trad climber will no doubt seek out the excellent Suspension Flake and Aerobic Wall before wondering which monkey put up Hung like a Baboon.

The Boulderer could look to P6 to warm up before visiting the essential Sharks Fin Boulder, 5C Wall, the mean P23 & the jug filled P102. Feeling lucky, the hardcore Boulderer can consider Prowed, Cosmetix, The Barrel Rockover & The Cream Traverse amongst others.

Finally either trad climbers or boulderers can try out Skin Graft just to ensure they have absolutely no skin left at the end of the day.

The Nick White guide includes major routes but for a much more comprehensive view of this Granite Gem (IMHO essential) go to the javu.co.uk website.

Access notes
From the M5, continue onto the A38 then follow signs to Bovey Tracey.

From the Bovey roundabout (the second, look for the Granite block feature), turn left following signs firstly for Moretonhampstead, then left to Widecombe in the Moor.

Keep on going up the great big hill that eventually brings you out at Hay Tor. Hound Tor is on the other side of the valley to Hay Tor so keep on going round till you can turn right onto the other side of the Valley. If your going down a big hill turn around.

Another mile on, Hound Tor becomes visible (on right), turn right and park up. Two minute walk in.

Boulder Britain (2011), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Kisvaen CornerE3 6a 6
3The HobbitE5 6b  
4Sheep May Safely GrazeS 4a 116
5Perched Block ChimneyM 43
6Hob Hound EasyVD 10
7HobhoundE3 5b 28
8HobbleE5 6c  
9Toltec TwostepE6 6c **18
10Toltec Twostep DirectE5 6c 2
11Suspension FlakeVS 4c ***754
12Cantilever DirectHS 4b 52
13Cantilever CrackVS 4c 76
14Last FlingerE1 5c 38
15JanelleHS 4b *10
16P5 (Javu) Perched Block AreteV3 6a 26
17P6 (Javu) Perched Block TraverseV2 5c **80
18Wall on slopersV1 41
19P7 (Javu) Layback CrackVB 3c 118
20P8 (Javu) Perched Block WallVB 4c 116
21P12 (Javu)VB 4c 18
22FogouVS 4c *49
23P13 (Javu)V0- 4a 18
24Skin Graft TooVB ?? 2
25P15 (Javu)V0 5c 5
26Dead Dog RibE2 5b 16
27P19 (Javu)none 4c 8
28P 22 (Javu)VB 4c 27
30P9 (Javu) Mid Wall Cracknone 4c 70
31P10 (Javu)V4 6b 9
32P11 (Javu) Low TraverseV4 6b 5
33P28 (Javu) Back Wallnone 5a *10
35P23 (Javu) Short Left AreteV4 6b ***33
36P24(Javu) Short L Arête Sit StartV4 6b **8
37P26 (javu) Short Block R AreteV0 5a 19
38P27 (Javu) R to L Traverse into Short AreteV5 6a/b 5
40Shark's MouthV4 2
41P29 (Javu) L Hand Shark LineV0- 5a 171
42P30 (Javu)V3 6a *94
43Shark's FinV1 5c ***366
44Sharks Fin Double DynoV1 5b ***55
45WishV5 6b 46
46The Wish (low start)V7 6c 6
47WISH-ISH !!V2 *6
48MakoV11 2
49P34 (javu) high TraverseV7 3
50P36 (Javu)V0 5c 23
51P37 (Javu)V1 5c 13
52Barnaby's CrackV2 6a 4
53Ozzie's WallHS 4b **24
54P40 (Javu) Slanting Flake CrackV2 6a **6
55Problem: 42 (Javu)none 6a **5
57Problem: 44 (Javu)S 4a *41
58Top HatM 36
59P45 (Javu)none 4a 56
60P46 (Javu) Back RH Wallnone 5a 44
61P47 (Javu)none 4b 55
62P48 (Javu)none 4c 52
63P49 (Javu) L Wall Aretenone 5a 41
64P50 (Javu) Diagonal Cracknone 3c **75
65P51 (Javu) Arête L of Diagonal CrackVB 3c 42
66Pr52 (Javu)none 5c 12
67Project P: 53 (Javu)none  
68P54 (Javu)V2 6a 9
70Aerobic WallE2 5c *318
71P56 (Javu) R WallE2 6a 6
72Limbo DancerE4 5c **44
73P58 (Javu)E4 6a  
74P59 (Javu)E3 5b 1
75Aerobic TraverseV2 5c **76
77Skin GraftV2 5c *89
78CosmetixV5 6b *46
80P62 (Javu) Left AreteVB 4c 57
81P63 (Javu) SS L Aretenone 6b 28
82P64 (Javu)V0 5a 62
83P65 (Javu) ProwV3 6a **62
84Left edge 5c WallVB 4b 2
855c WallV1 5b **190
86P67 (Javu) Undercut StartV4 6b 36
87Filet MignonVB 4a *10
88Chav-WagonV1 5b *11
89The HornV1 5c **128
90Little Prow TraverseV5 6b/c *14
92P69 (Javu) Left Wallnone 5a 9
93Anaerobic WallE1 5c **66
94Anaerobic AreteE2 6a 44
95P72 (Javu)none 5b 6
96P73 (Javu)none 5b 4
98P74 (Javu)V1 5c 2
99Top ProwV3 6a **10
100William CrossingV5 6b 1
101P77 (Javu) Rounded TraverseV2 6a 2
103Raw Onion BoyzE2 6a *4
104ProwlerVS 5a 118
105Little Prow (boulder problem)V2 5c **113
106Little ProwE1 5c *80
107ProwedV5 6b **50
108P81 (Javu) Prowed Dynonone 6b 3
109P82 (Javu)V0 5b 36
110P84 (Javu)V6 6c 5
111ScornE4 6a 9
112P87 (Javu)V0 5b 7
114Stegadacea ChimneyD 39
115Stegadacea Chimney (variation)S 4a 4
116AvariceE3 5c * 
117Hydraulic AreteHVS 5b *173
118Hydraulic WallHVS 5a **3
119Right ChimneyVD 34
120The ViceVD **310
121PaddyM **381
122PulpitHVD *427
123DevonleighHVD **265
124P91 (Javu)HS 5a *74
126Liars DiceS *682
127P93 (Javu)HVS 4c 45
128Liar's areteVD 45
129P94 (Javu)HS 4b 40
130P95 (Javu)V1 5c *35
131P96 (Javu)none 6b 10
133Downward BoundE2 5c *19
134Rob's Cracknone 5b 8
135Rob's Bum Cracknone 5c 5
136P100 (Javu) aka Overhanging JugsV0- 4c ***47
137P100b (Javu) Jugs sit startV7 *3
138P101 (Javu) OH Jugs Traverse in fm Rnone 4c 7
139It Goes at About VdiffVD 7
141P102 (Javu) Rounded AreteV1 5b **69
142P103 (Javu) Low StartV2 6a *46
143P102 (Javu) Rounded Break StartV1 6a 2
144P104 (Javu) Rounded Wallnone 4c 41
145Teenage Mutant Ninja SlippersHVS 4c 16
146Full MoonE3 5c *3
148P107 (Javu)V4 6b 3
149TuppyV9 6c 1
150P113 (Javu) Al Smith Stand StartV5 6b 6
151The Barrell RockoverV5 6b *7
152Stray Dog (Gone Defective)V9 6c * 
153?V8 **8
155Skuzz BucketE4 6a *1
156Hung Like a BaboonE5 6c *2
157Never Trust a MonkeyE6 6c  
158P112 (Javu)V3 6a 2
159Alan SmithV9 7a *13
160Project P: 115 (Javu)none  
161The Cream TraverseV8 6c **16
162The NewtD 4
163BICTON!!!f6B+ ***3
164The Savile FeelingE5 6b *4
165Wall on slopers sit start *f6B 6
166Groove *f4 5
167Arete *f4 5
168Easy Wall *f4 4
169Arête (Boulder Britain - Route 1) *f4 1
170Easy Wall (Boulder Britain - Route 2) *f4 2
171Groove (Boulder Britain - Route 5) *f4 3
172Wall on Stoppers (Boulder Britain - Route 6) *f6A+ 3
173Perched Block Traverse - Sit start *V3 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Note also that Hound tor is quite special in tha way that many of these problems are somewhere in the grey area between bouldering and soloing *ahem* "highball". The grading system works where V grades apply to normal length boulder problems, if there is no Trad grade but a tech grade it probabally doesnt deserve a rope but then again you probabally don't want to fall off the top.
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07
With help from some others, especially freelancer_85, (nearly) all routes and boulder problems have been added. However - many of these routes have no descriptions - or stars, this isn't because the crag is pants, theyre just unknown. So if you climb a route make sure you vote on it, and if you have a sensible description that differs from the Javu one feel free to add it. Cheers
John_Warner - 29/Apr/07