Climbs 65
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 220m a.s.l
Faces SW

Short but as the guide says "Magic" © petegunn

Crag features

Good quaility Penrith sand-stone set in a fine position with a southerly aspect makes this a fine little crag.

The routes are varied, mainly in the lower grades with a few test pieces and some bouldering. Its quick to dry and belays are easy to set up on the trees above.

The bouldering area is located on the 'Far Rocks', To find them walk 100m, staying level, rightwards from the last buttress.

Approach notes

Marshall's plc and Messrs Atkinson accept no responsibility for anyone entering the land and those entering do so at their own risk.

Park in the car park, do not block access for farm vehicles.

No dogs should be taken to the crag.

Fire precautions should be stringently observed.

Quarrying takes place nearby and climbers should not stray away from the climbing area.

Please put some money in the honesty box.

Access Advice

Marshalls PLC (the landowner at Scratchmere Scar), have recently agreed to allow permissive access to the crag for climbing, subject to it being completely at your own risk. Marshalls are concerned however about their health and safety obligations at a separate and adjacent active quarry to the north-west of the crag. Therefore, access is via the track from the farm below the crag and limited to the crag itself, not the land beyond. Continued access is reliant on climbers upholding this arrangement.

Climbing is no longer banned at Scratchmere but please don't go onto the land beyond the crag or we'll loose this.
Craig Geddes - 30/Mar/11
A small but pleasant crag. Excellent parking is provided at the farm. Grades tend to be stiff as the crag is steep and protection is often poor.
Lemony - 30/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sycamore Buttress 
2First of Many
VD 35
3Life's ProblemsE1 5b/c **7
VD *69
5Skeet Direct
HS 4
HS *10
7Pheasant Groove
D **112
8The Famous GrouseHS 4b 20
9Side by Side
VD *91
10Over and Under
VD 104
11The Arete
S *86
D *70
M *36
14Itchmere NoseVS 5a **3
D 28
 Leaning Tower 
HVS 5a **79
18Schrodinger's Cat
E1 5c *7
E1 5a **66
VD *51
 Birch Tree Buttress 
HVS 5a *47
23Out of The dark
MS *54
E5 6b **7
25Into the Light
E2 5c *11
26Charlie BrownE2 5c **8
27Stormy Petteril
VS 5a **59
none 6c *1
29The Black Streak
E2 6a **4
E1 5b **66
31ScratchE4 6b **4
32Greta's Climb
MVS 4c **73
33Greta's Climb DirectVS 5a **11
34Don't Worry
VS 4c 21
35Be Happy
MVS 4b 9
36High SqueezeVD 6
 The Block 
38Scratch AreteE3 6a **3
39Spiral Stairs
S **42
 Scratchmere Buttress 
VS 5a 6
42John's Climb
HS 4a **65
VD *55
44No Comebacks
HVS 5b *8
45Get Close
VS 5a *17
46Jam Today
HS 4c 18
D 9
 Home Buttress 
49Home, Sweet Home
HVS 5b 2
VS 4c *9
51The Cheesepress
D *14
52Manics of a Different Breed
VS 5a 2
 The Far Rocks 
54Stews Eliminate
V2 *8
55Stews flake
V2 7
56The AspirantV5 ***7
57Snap Away
V0 12
58Crack Away
V0 7
59Wilson Way
V1 8
60Wilson Way Sit StartV4 *1
61Bonsai Pipeline
V2 *7
62The Way of the Pine
V1 10
63A Leap of Pine
V1 6
64Quality Street
V3 **8

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