Roche Rock, Cornwall. © John Newbiggin
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.
A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.
Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.
Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)
Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.
Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.
In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.