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These details were last updated on 22/Sep/2012

Roche Rock

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN AREA  
2God ForbidE4 6b **7
3Hook and EyeVS 4c **18
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)HS 4b *21
5East ChimneyS 4b 51
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a 25
7Oxford DirectVD *7
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b 36
9South East ButtressD 4a **111
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **2
11Moping OwlVS 4c 126
12PorkyVS 4c ***238
13Lord FalmouthHVS 5a *259
14Corner & StaircaseD 3b 239
15Tregagle's CrackS 4b 234
16National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *6
17Tregagle's ButtressHS 4c 139
18NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c 8
19Tregagle's RibVS 5a 21
20Easy ChimneyD 3c 48
21Easy Chimney CrackS 4a 10
22Swing Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *9
23Swink ChimneyVS 4c 46
24Mount RimmerVS 5a 3
25Tump WallD 3c 11
26North ButtressD 3c 38
27Shorty's Folly Variation FinishHS 4c *14
28Shorty's FollyVS 4c *95
 Climb nameGradex
29Vastus medialisS *5
 EASTERN OUTCROPS  
31The Vital SparkVS 4b *4
32Ferrero RocheHVS 4c 6
33Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b *2
34Clay CountryVD *3
35Bin Down BindownVD 3
36Get On John!S 4b 2
37Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c 1
38Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c 2
39FlutingsVS 4c  
 BOULDERING  
41Lip TraverseV1 5
42Slapperf6A+ *3
43Blaze (Slapper super-low start)V3 2
44ArsonistV6 4
45The CrackV2 7
46Right AreteV0 10
47Reacherf6A+ *1
48Shave the CornishV4 6a 2
 BEGINNERS SLAB  
50KynsaD 24
51NessaS 4a 32
52TressaD 39
53PesworaVS 4b 25
54PympesVD 30
55Hweghves variationS 4a 8
56HweghvesD 17
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Access notes
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Southern Man ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Southern Man ? - 30/Jul/12

Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude ? - 29/Jul/12

Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz ? - 02/Dec/08

Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08

Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06