Climbs 66
Rocktype Granite

Roche Rock, Cornwall. © Dissenter

Crag features

Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Approach notes

Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Lots of glass around the crag and on parts of beginner slab. tried to clean up the most of it this week however I doubt it will stay that way for long.
Maywood96 - 12/Jun/15
Birds nesting on porky's, maybe best avoid for awhile (jun/15)
tp45597 - 31/May/15
Spent an evening there in May 2015. Superb location with the amazing monastery on top, one of the coolest little outcrops I've ever been to. Seems our opinion was shared by the 50+ local kids for whom it forms a meeting, drinking and flirting spot of choice. Being all aged 15 or less they weren't particularly troublesome however.
67hours - 25/May/15
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Area 
2God ForbidE4 6b **16
3Hook and Eye
-
VS 4c **30
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)
-
HS 4b *47
5East Chimney
-
S 4b 85
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a 33
7Oxford DirectVD *19
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b 46
9South East ButtressVD **231
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **4
11Moping LordHVS 5a 1
12Moping OwlVS 4c *191
13PorkyVS 4c **431
14Lord FalmouthE1 5b *442
15Corner & StaircaseD *435
16Slab EliminateHS 4c 2
17Tregagle's CrackS 4a *421
18Cerro FitzRocheHVS 5b 3
19Sparkle MotionE1 5b 2
20National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *8
21Tregagle's ButtressHS 4b *251
22Tregagle's TraverseV3 *3
23NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c 20
24Tregagle's RibVS 5a 27
25Easy ChimneyD 3c 68
26Easy Chimney CrackS 4a 14
27Urban GorrillaV3  
28Swink Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *17
29Swink Chimney
-
VS 4c 65
30Mount RimmerVS 5a 6
31Tump Wall
-
D 3c 17
32North Buttress
-
D 3c 51
33Late AgainHS 4b 2
34Sparrows EdgeE1 5c *1
35The LeparVS 4c 4
36Shorty's Folly Variation Finish
-
HS 4c *27
37Shorty's FollyHVS 4c **164
38Shortys Left HandHVS 5a 1
39Vastus medialisS *10
 Eastern Outcrops 
41Para HandyE1 5b 2
42The Vital SparkVS 4b *10
43Ferrero RocheHVS 4c 6
44The Heart of the MatterE1 5b *1
45Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b 6
46Clay CountryVD *7
47Bin Down BindownVD 6
48Get On John!S 4b 5
49Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c 5
50Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c 6
51Flutings
-
VS 4c 3
 Bouldering 
53Shave the CornishV4 2
54Lip TraverseV1 8
55Slapperf6A+ *6
56Blaze (Slapper super-low start)V3 3
57ArsonistV6 7
58The CrackV2 13
59Right AreteV0 16
60Flapperf6A 1
61Reacherf6A+ *2
62Will Smithf7A+ *1
 Beginners Slab 
64KynsaD 66
65NessaS 4a 81
66TressaD 108
67PesworaVS 4b 55
68PympesVD 72
69Hweghves variation
-
S 4a 28
70HweghvesD 47

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