Roche Rock

Climbs 64 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Approach notes
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Access notes

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MAIN AREA  
2God ForbidE4 6b **11
3Hook and EyeVS 4c **25
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)HS 4b *41
5East ChimneyS 4b 79
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a 32
7Oxford DirectVD *15
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b 44
9South East ButtressVD **198
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **2
11Moping OwlVS 4c *175
12PorkyVS 4c **367
13Lord FalmouthE1 5b *392
14Corner & StaircaseD *377
15Slab EliminateHS 4c 1
16Tregagle's CrackS 4a *370
17Cerro FitzRocheHVS 5b 2
18Sparkle MotionE1 5b 1
19National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *6
20Tregagle's ButtressHS 4b *221
21Tregagle's TraverseV3 *3
22NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c 17
23Tregagle's RibVS 5a 27
24Easy ChimneyD 3c 64
25Easy Chimney CrackS 4a 13
26Urban GorrillaV3  
27Swink Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *14
28Swink ChimneyVS 4c 63
29Mount RimmerVS 5a 6
30Tump WallD 3c 17
31North ButtressD 3c 51
32Late AgainHS 4b 2
33Sparrows EdgeE1 5c *1
34The LeparVS 4c 3
35Shorty's Folly Variation FinishHS 4c *26
36Shorty's FollyHVS 4c **140
37Shortys Left HandHVS 5a 1
38Vastus medialisS *9
 EASTERN OUTCROPS  
40Para HandyE1 5b 1
41The Vital SparkVS 4b *8
42Ferrero RocheHVS 4c 6
43Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b *4
44Clay CountryVD *6
45Bin Down BindownVD 5
46Get On John!S 4b 4
47Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c 5
48Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c 5
49FlutingsVS 4c 2
 BOULDERING  
51Shave the CornishV4 6a 2
52Lip TraverseV1 7
53Slapperf6A+ *5
54Blaze (Slapper super-low start)V3 3
55ArsonistV6 7
56The CrackV2 12
57Right AreteV0 15
58Flapperf6A 1
59Reacherf6A+ *2
60Will Smithf7A+ *1
 BEGINNERS SLAB  
62KynsaD 55
63NessaS 4a 71
64TressaD 88
65PesworaVS 4b 46
66PympesVD 59
67Hweghves variationS 4a 22
68HweghvesD 41
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Lots of glass around the crag and on parts of beginner slab. tried to clean up the most of it this week however I doubt it will stay that way for long.
Maywood96 - 12/Jun/15
Birds nesting on porky's, maybe best avoid for awhile (jun/15)
tp45597 - 31/May/15
Spent an evening there in May 2015. Superb location with the amazing monastery on top, one of the coolest little outcrops I've ever been to. Seems our opinion was shared by the 50+ local kids for whom it forms a meeting, drinking and flirting spot of choice. Being all aged 15 or less they weren't particularly troublesome however.
67hours - 25/May/15
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06