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These details were last updated on 22/Sep/2012

Roche Rock

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 59 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
18 kph

4.9mm rain
Cloudy
14 °C
29 kph

0.6mm rain
Sun
11 °C
15 kph

0.6mm rain
Sunny periods
11 °C
22 kph

2.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
26 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MAIN AREA  
2God ForbidE4 6b **7
3Hook and EyeVS 4c **22
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)HS 4b *31
5East ChimneyS 4b 70
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a 28
7Oxford DirectVD *13
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b 40
9South East ButtressD 4a **154
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **2
11Moping OwlVS 4c 148
12PorkyVS 4c ***292
13Lord FalmouthHVS 5a *316
14Corner & StaircaseD 3b 291
15Tregagle's CrackS 4b 296
16Sparkle MotionE1 5b 1
17National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *6
18Tregagle's ButtressHS 4c 172
19Tregagle's TraverseV3 *1
20NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c 12
21Tregagle's RibVS 5a 24
22Easy ChimneyD 3c 55
23Easy Chimney CrackS 4a 11
24Urban GorrillaV3  
25Swink Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *11
26Swink ChimneyVS 4c 53
27Mount RimmerVS 5a 5
28Tump WallD 3c 13
29North ButtressD 3c 44
30Late AgainHS 4b 2
31Shorty's Folly Variation FinishHS 4c *18
32Shorty's FollyVS 4c *109
 Climb nameGradex
33Vastus medialisS *6
 EASTERN OUTCROPS  
35The Vital SparkVS 4b *5
36Ferrero RocheHVS 4c 6
37Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b *4
38Clay CountryVD *4
39Bin Down BindownVD 3
40Get On John!S 4b 3
41Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c 5
42Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c 3
43FlutingsVS 4c  
 BOULDERING  
45Shave the CornishV4 6a 2
46Lip TraverseV1 6
47Slapperf6A+ *5
48Blaze (Slapper super-low start)V3 2
49ArsonistV6 6
50The CrackV2 10
51Right AreteV0 13
52Reacherf6A+ *2
53Will Smithf7A+ *1
 BEGINNERS SLAB  
55KynsaD 37
56NessaS 4a 51
57TressaD 60
58PesworaVS 4b 32
59PympesVD 46
60Hweghves variationS 4a 16
61HweghvesD 29
62Kayasa D 1
63Cornish Stair Case VD 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

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The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14

Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13

Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12

Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12

Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz - 02/Dec/08

Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08

Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06