Roche Rock

Climbs 61 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Access notes
Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 MAIN AREA 
2God ForbidE4 6b **
3Hook and EyeVS 4c **
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)HS 4b *
5East ChimneyS 4b
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a
7Oxford DirectVD *
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b
9South East ButtressD 4a **
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **
11Moping OwlVS 4c
12PorkyVS 4c ***
13Lord FalmouthHVS 5a *
14Corner & StaircaseD 3b
15Tregagle's CrackS 4b
16Cerro FitzRocheHVS 5b
17Sparkle MotionE1 5b
18National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *
19Tregagle's ButtressHS 4c
20Tregagle's TraverseV3 *
21NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c
22Tregagle's RibVS 5a
23Easy ChimneyD 3c
24Easy Chimney CrackS 4a
25Urban GorrillaV3
26Swink Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *
27Swink ChimneyVS 4c
28Mount RimmerVS 5a
29Tump WallD 3c
30North ButtressD 3c
31Late AgainHS 4b
32Shorty's Folly Variation FinishHS 4c *
33Shorty's FollyVS 4c *
34Vastus medialisS *
 EASTERN OUTCROPS 
36The Vital SparkVS 4b *
37Ferrero RocheHVS 4c
38Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b *
39Clay CountryVD *
40Bin Down BindownVD
41Get On John!S 4b
42Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c
43Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c
44FlutingsVS 4c
 BOULDERING 
46Shave the CornishV4 6a
47Lip TraverseV1
48Slapperf6A+ *
49Blaze (Slapper super-low start)V3
50ArsonistV6
51The CrackV2
52Right AreteV0
53Reacherf6A+ *
54Will Smithf7A+ *
 BEGINNERS SLAB 
56KynsaD
57NessaS 4a
58TressaD
59PesworaVS 4b
60PympesVD
61Hweghves variationS 4a
62HweghvesD
63Kayasa D
64Cornish Stair Case VD
65The LeparVS 4c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Last

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06
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These details were last updated on 22/Sep/2012

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