Climbs 64
Rocktype Granite

Roche Rock, Cornwall. © John Newbiggin

Crag features

Unique rock - not granite but schorl, composed of quartz and tourmaline, and possessing the most extraordinary friction.

A good selection of routes across the mid-grades from diffs up to a desperate E4 6b roof crack.

Some of the belays need to be taken back to the ruin on top of the rock.

Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden, but the signs indicating a complete climbing ban on the approach path are old, out of date and climbing is very much allowed.

Approach notes

Locals say adders are a big problem here but I didn't see any in two full days last week (Aug 2012)

Sports/Social club car park is huge and was empty for the two days I used it. Checked with a local/neighbour who said it was absolutely no problem to park there.

Access was from the back of the car park, past the Sports/social club building, go right, through the gate and then follow the hedgerow around to the left. Cut through the obvious opening and head towards the rock. Fight through the ferns on the relatively obvious but muddy paths.

In bad weather at least one side of the rock seemed to remain a little sheltered.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Lots of glass around the crag and on parts of beginner slab. tried to clean up the most of it this week however I doubt it will stay that way for long.
Maywood96 - 12/Jun/15
Birds nesting on porky's, maybe best avoid for awhile (jun/15)
tp45597 - 31/May/15
Spent an evening there in May 2015. Superb location with the amazing monastery on top, one of the coolest little outcrops I've ever been to. Seems our opinion was shared by the 50+ local kids for whom it forms a meeting, drinking and flirting spot of choice. Being all aged 15 or less they weren't particularly troublesome however.
67hours - 25/May/15
The signs has not been relevant since 2005 after CRoW Act.
NathanTurnock29 - 20/Mar/14
Climbed on Thursday (Aug 22nd) and still trying to get my head round this place, it's immense. The climbings good, but the setting is even more breathtaking. Didn't spend nearly as long as I wanted there (visited with a group from work on an 'adventure training' package) but loved every minute while I was there. We parked in the pub car park (with prior arrangement) and it was only a 5 minute walk in. We were also one of only 2 groups there, and the other group was only 2 kids and their dad, so pretty quiet too.
NobbyClark - 24/Aug/13
Agree with Argyle-dude's comments, except that the layby wasn't described properly in the Rockfax guide and people just park on the crag side of the parking restriction, close against the wall by the stile. Parking is always tolerate here and is quite safe.
Tom Last - 30/Jul/12
Layby listed in guide book is no longer there and locals on the newish housing estate are getting fed up with climbers parking there. The sports/social club (straight on at the roundabout out of roche) seem happy for climbers to park there and have a large car park. However, I dont recomend the path from the car park to the crag, cut across the cricket field back to the road to where the layby was and take that footpath!
argyle_dude - 29/Jul/12
Just solo all the climbs up to severe, Then lead then rest :D God Forbid Best done With an onsight attempt.. gear good ;)
El3ctroFuzz - 02/Dec/08
Went there over Easter - according to a big sign there, climbing on the rock is now banned.. Anyone know about this?
RichG1 - 26/Mar/08
Bizarre pinnacles and a main crag with a ruined hermitage on the top. Some good lower-grade routes, a few extremes and limited bouldering in the bracken. Climbing in the vicinity of the ruin is not allowed. Close to village and popular with local youths.
Gus Horsley - 07/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Area 
2God ForbidE4 6b **12
3Hook and Eye
VS 4c **25
4East Chimney (Right Hand Variation)
HS 4b *44
5East Chimney
S 4b 80
6Oxford ClimbVD 4a 33
7Oxford DirectVD *17
8Ivy Mantled TowerS 4b 45
9South East ButtressVD **205
10Smoked BaconE2 6a **2
11Moping OwlVS 4c *177
12PorkyVS 4c **381
13Lord FalmouthE1 5b *403
14Corner & StaircaseD *387
15Slab EliminateHS 4c 2
16Tregagle's CrackS 4a *383
17Cerro FitzRocheHVS 5b 3
18Sparkle MotionE1 5b 1
19National Diploma in Outdoor EducationE3 6b *7
20Tregagle's ButtressHS 4b *228
21Tregagle's Traversef6A *3
22NVQ in OrigamiE2 5c 19
23Tregagle's RibVS 5a 27
24Easy ChimneyD 3c 65
25Easy Chimney CrackS 4a 14
26Urban Gorrillaf6A  
27Swink Rib/Singing the FishingE1 5a *14
28Swink Chimney
VS 4c 64
29Mount RimmerVS 5a 6
30Tump Wall
D 3c 17
31North Buttress
D 3c 51
32Late AgainHS 4b 2
33Sparrows EdgeE1 5c *1
34The LeparVS 4c 4
35Shorty's Folly Variation Finish
HS 4c *26
36Shorty's FollyHVS 4c **148
37Shortys Left HandHVS 5a 1
38Vastus medialisS *9
 Eastern Outcrops 
40Para HandyE1 5b 2
41The Vital SparkVS 4b *9
42Ferrero RocheHVS 4c 6
43Perfect Weather to FlyE1 5b *4
44Clay CountryVD *7
45Bin Down BindownVD 6
46Get On John!S 4b 4
47Gracefully Disappear in a RoomVS 4c 5
48Baby, We'll Be FineVS 4c 5
VS 4c 2
51Shave the Cornishf6B 2
52Lip Traversef5 8
53Slapperf6A+ *6
54Blaze (Slapper super-low start)f6A 3
55Arsonistf7A 7
56The Crackf5+ 13
57Right Aretef4 16
58Flapperf6A 1
59Reacherf6A+ *2
60Will Smithf7A+ *1
 Beginners Slab 
62KynsaD 58
63NessaS 4a 74
64TressaD 93
65PesworaVS 4b 48
66PympesVD 63
67Hweghves variation
S 4a 24
68HweghvesD 44

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