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These details were last updated on 12/May/2010

Auchinstarry Quarry

Stirlingshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 125 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Has great character with good protection. Dubious safety work by the council has obliterated some old classic lines but there is plenty left. Some of the rock is sublime.

Safety report for the quarry

http://www.eigconference.org/index2.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_view&gid=25&Itemid=26

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 

0.0mm rain
Sun
8 °C
11 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
20 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
28 kph

3.5mm rain
Cloudy
9 °C
18 kph

2.9mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: West Highlands

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CAR PARK AREA  
2Undercut WallV0+ 5a 4
3Shield Bugf4 2
4Crimpy WallV3 6a 1
5Easy FlakeVB 4a *11
6Bruddaz Gonna Work it Outf6C 2
7Green OnionHVS 5a 40
8I-spyE2 5c *54
9Mr MenVS 4b **222
10Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The BackS 136
11Mister, You're On Fire MisterVS 5a 16
12First Footer (Damaged)E1 5c **74
13No Stone UnturnedS 5a 22
14Just stand upE1 6a 1
15Access RouteD ***392
16slab left of ScreamE2 5c 77
17ScreamS 4b 548
18WhimperS 41
19AnarchistVD 302
20TarS 256
21Three Cheers for Yer Uncle BobVS 5a 40
22Knock BackE1 5b **161
23Slinky LizardHS 4b *427
24CubigoruasryHS 5a 12
25Cat's Whisker'sE2 5b 83
26Death is the HunterE5 6b/c ***22
27Nijinski is the HunterE3 5c *5
28NijinskiE5 6a ***119
 PROMONTORY  
30Blade RunnerE4 6a **36
31Blade Runner DirectE5 6b *15
32Promontory RunnerE4 6b  
33Promontory DirectHVS 5a ***450
34Plumline AreteE3 6a 1
35Plumline CrackHVS 5c *45
36SpirogyraVS 4c 278
37CarouselambraE5 6b **6
38In through the Out doorE5 6a  
39Fish risingE2 5b 1
40Twilight ZoneE4 6a * 
41Tit for TatE2 5c 2
42The Surf ShackE5 6b  
 MASCARADE BUTTRESS  
44Newcastle BrownE1 5b 1
45Roll UpVS 4c 2
46Soft MachineE2 5c  
47MaypoleHVS 4c 6
48High DiveE3 5c *11
49Surface TensionE5 6b ***15
50MascaradeE1 5c *18
51WhiplashE1 5b 5
52Red LeadVS 5a ***258
53White SlabHS 4b **157
54Demons & Dead LizardsHVS 5a 23
55Spanking the RustbucketE3 5c 3
56Harry Goes WestE2 5b 1
57Hopelessly Treading WaterE4 6a 1
 LITTLE AMPHITHEATRE  
59The seven year planE2 5c *1
60Amnesiac PullHS 4
61Cracked AreteVS 4c **107
62Cruisers CreekE1 5b 8
63Orange FlashHVS 5a **95
64Danger! U.S.RHVS 5a *10
 MAIN AMPHITHEATRE  
66CaftanHVS 4c 13
67BazaarHVS 4c 12
68Solstice SlotVS 4c 8
 Climb nameGradex
69Ice EdgeVS 4c 5
70MastalgiaVS 4c *90
71Higher BeginningVD 10
72Stir CrazyHVS 5a 11
73BouldermouseHVS 5a 3
74Lion CubVS 4b *91
75LionHVS 5b **125
76The Return of the KingE2 5c ***44
77ADNIL (aka Auch!)HVS 5a *4
78SunshineHVS 5a **7
79Kelvin Way DAMAGEDE1 5a 1
 TERRACE  
81Mac's WallHVS 5a 1
82Short ReachE1 5b **13
83Pigeon HoleVS 4c 1
84ExorcistHVS 5b  
85Separated EdgeHVS 5a 1
86Christmas CornerHVS 5a 2
87Glass DirectE1 5a **2
88GlassE1 5c  
89Dream MachineE4 6a/b ***5
90Quick BuckVS 5a *16
91Think of ScotlandE6 6b ** 
 TRUNDLE SLAB  
93Glasgow No MoreVS 4c 16
94The JavelinE2 6a *12
95A Stroll with MarigoldE1 5b *3
96ReplicantE3 5c 7
97TrundleVS 4c **454
98Fool's GoldE3 5b *2
99Walk on the Wild SideHVS 5a ***272
100Midas TouchE1 5b ***137
101The Gold BugE3 5c 10
102Gold RushE1 5b ***247
103After the Gold Rush (DAMAGED)E2 5a 2
104After the Grave DigE1 5a *57
105GolddiggerHVS 5a 10
 DEEP THROAT BUTTRESS  
107Deep Throat RevivedE5 6a 1
108Power PlayE1 5b *27
109Foxy WoxyE3 5c **12
110Shiny Happy PeopleE3 6a ** 
111Crazy DaisyHVS 5a 2
112Think PositiveE2 6a 1
113Shot In The DarkE1 5a *2
114Evasive ActionVS 4c  
 RIGHT HAND AMPHITHEATRE  
116B.C.'s ReturnE1 5b  
117UreaVS 4c  
118Stool PigeonE4 6b  
119Both Toes BurningE3 6a 1
120The Colour PurpleE1 5b 1
121Red SnapperE2 5c  
122Band AidE3 5c  
123Race Against TimeE3 5c  
124FootlooseHVS 5a  
 UNKNOWN LOCATION PROBLEMS  
126Sunday SlabVD 3
 BOULDERING AREA  
128Jerk Outf6A **4
129Diagonal CrackVB 4a 16
130Zigzag CrackVB 4a 13
131Tiny AreteVB 5a 9
132SpidermanVB 6b 2
133Wide CrackVB 4a 13
134Finger FlakesVB 4a 8
135Kein Trink WasserHVS 5a 1
136Inca TrailE1 5a *1
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Access notes
Regular train service to Croy which is only 1 Kilometre away to the south.

Some routes start straight from the car park.

For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JamieSparkes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13

Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13

'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12

2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10

From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10

From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10

Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08

Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05

A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04