Climbs 126
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Surface Tension, Auchinstarry © Fraser

Crag features

Has great character with good protection. Dubious safety work by the council has obliterated some old classic lines but there is plenty left. Some of the rock is sublime.

Safety report for the quarry

http://www.eigconference.org/index2.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_view&gid=25&Itemid=26

Approach notes

Regular train service to Croy which is only 1 Kilometre away to the south.

Some routes start straight from the car park.

For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Guidebooks

Currently a family of bats in a crack on the white slab (part way up red lead)
James90 - 23/Jun/15
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13
'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12
2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10
Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08
Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05
A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Car Park Area 
2Undercut WallV0+ 4
3Shield Bugf4 2
4Crimpy WallV3 1
5Easy Flake
-
VB *12
6Bruddaz Gonna Work it Outf6C 2
7Green OnionHVS 5a 66
8I-spyE2 5c *100
9Mr MenVS 4b **307
10Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The BackS 207
11Mister, You're On Fire MisterVS 5a 20
12First FooterE1 5c **107
13No Stone UnturnedS 5a 29
14Just stand upE1 6a 7
15Access RouteD ***495
16slab left of ScreamE2 5c 102
17ScreamS 4b 717
18WhimperS 54
19AnarchistVD 372
20TarS 299
21TardisS 4
22Three Cheers for Yer Uncle BobVS 5a 53
23Knock BackE1 5b **219
24Slinky LizardHS 4b *555
25CubigoruasryHS 5a 12
26Cat's Whisker'sE2 5b 101
27Death is the HunterE5 6b/c ***25
28Nijinski is the HunterE3 5c *8
29NijinskiE5 6a ***136
 Promontory 
31Blade RunnerE4 6a **40
32Blade Runner DirectE5 6b *16
33Promontory RunnerE4 6b  
34Promontory DirectHVS 5a ***620
35Plumline AreteE3 6a 6
36Plumline CrackHVS 5c *55
37SpirogyraVS 4c 346
38CarouselambraE5 6b **8
39In through the Out doorE5 6a  
40Fish risingE2 5b 2
41Twilight ZoneE4 6a * 
42Tit for TatE2 5c 3
43The Surf ShackE5 6b  
 Mascarade Buttress 
45Newcastle Brown
-
E1 5b 2
46Roll Up
-
VS 4c 3
47Soft Machine
-
E2 5c  
48Maypole
-
HVS 4c 6
49High Dive
-
E3 5c *20
50Surface TensionE5 6b ***20
51MascaradeE1 5c *21
52WhiplashE1 5b 11
53Red LeadVS 5a ***379
54White Slab
-
HS 4b **192
55Demons & Dead Lizards
-
HVS 5a 32
56Spanking the RustbucketE3 5c 3
57Harry Goes WestE2 5b 1
58Hopelessly Treading WaterE4 6a 1
 Little Amphitheatre 
60The seven year plan
-
E2 5c *2
61Amnesiac PullHS 7
62Cracked AreteVS 4c **145
63Cruisers CreekE1 5b 9
64Orange FlashHVS 5a **134
65Danger! U.S.RHVS 5a *16
 Main Amphitheatre 
67CaftanHVS 4c 15
68BazaarHVS 4c 13
69Solstice SlotVS 4c 10
70Ice Edge
-
VS 4c 10
71MastalgiaVS 4c *103
72Higher Beginning
-
VD 14
73Stir CrazyHVS 5a 14
74BouldermouseHVS 5a 6
75Lion CubVS 4b *121
76LionHVS 5b **173
77The Return of the KingE2 5c ***67
78ADNIL (aka Auch!)HVS 5a *12
79SunshineHVS 5a **9
80Kelvin Way DAMAGED
-
E1 5a 4
 Terrace 
82Mac's Wall
-
HVS 5a 5
83Short Reach
-
E1 5b **23
84Pigeon Hole
-
VS 4c 2
85Exorcist
-
HVS 5b  
86Separated Edge
-
HVS 5a 1
87Christmas Corner
-
HVS 5a 5
88Glass DirectE1 5a **3
89Glass
-
E1 5c  
90Dream Machine
-
E4 6a/b ***8
91Quick BuckVS 5a *21
92Think of ScotlandE6 6b ** 
 Trundle Slab 
94Glasgow No MoreVS 4c 17
95The JavelinE2 6a *16
96A Stroll with MarigoldE1 5b *4
97Replicant
-
E3 5c 8
98Sunday SlabVD 7
99TrundleVS 4c **584
100Fool's GoldE3 5b *5
101Walk on the Wild SideHVS 5a ***358
102Inca TrailE1 5a *3
103Midas TouchE1 5b ***165
104The Gold BugE3 5c 11
105Gold RushE1 5b ***327
106After the Gold Rush (DAMAGED)
-
E2 5a 5
107After the Grave DigE1 5a *76
108GolddiggerHVS 5a 14
 Deep Throat Buttress 
110Deep Throat RevivedE5 6a 1
111Power Play
-
E1 5b *38
112Foxy WoxyE3 5c **13
113Shiny Happy PeopleE3 6a ** 
114Crazy Daisy
-
HVS 5a 7
115Think Positive
-
E2 6a 1
116Shot In The Dark
-
E1 5a *3
117Evasive Action
-
VS 4c 2
 Right Hand Amphitheatre 
119B.C.'s Return
-
E1 5b 1
120Urea
-
VS 4c 1
121Stool Pigeon
-
E4 6b  
122Both Toes Burning
-
E3 6a 1
123The Colour PurpleE1 5b 2
124Red Snapper
-
E2 5c  
125Band Aid
-
E3 5c  
126Race Against Time
-
E3 5c  
127Footloose
-
HVS 5a 1
 Unknown location Problems 
129Kein Trink WasserHVS 5a 3
 Bouldering Area 
131Jerk Outf6A **4
132Diagonal Crack
-
VB 19
133Zigzag Crack
-
VB 16
134Tiny AreteVB 9
135SpidermanVB 3
136Wide Crack
-
VB 16
137Finger FlakesVB 11

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