Auchinstarry Quarry

Climbs 126 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Has great character with good protection. Dubious safety work by the council has obliterated some old classic lines but there is plenty left. Some of the rock is sublime.

Safety report for the quarry

http://www.eigconference.org/index2.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_view&gid=25&Itemid=26

Access notes
Regular train service to Croy which is only 1 Kilometre away to the south.

Some routes start straight from the car park.

For routes overlooking the pool, walk left (east) and through a wire fence to the top of the quarry. Scramble or abseil from stout trees to the water level.

Guidebooks
Lowland Outcrops (2005),
Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 CAR PARK AREA 
2Undercut WallV0+ 5a
3Shield Bugf4
4Crimpy WallV3 6a
5Easy FlakeVB 4a *
6Bruddaz Gonna Work it Outf6C
7Green OnionHVS 5a
8I-spyE2 5c *
9Mr MenVS 4b **
10Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The BackS
11Mister, You're On Fire MisterVS 5a
12First FooterE1 5c **
13No Stone UnturnedS 5a
14Just stand upE1 6a
15Access RouteD ***
16slab left of ScreamE2 5c
17ScreamS 4b
18WhimperS
19AnarchistVD
20TarS
21TardisS
22Three Cheers for Yer Uncle BobVS 5a
23Knock BackE1 5b **
24Slinky LizardHS 4b *
25CubigoruasryHS 5a
26Cat's Whisker'sE2 5b
27Death is the HunterE5 6b/c ***
28Nijinski is the HunterE3 5c *
29NijinskiE5 6a ***
 PROMONTORY 
31Blade RunnerE4 6a **
32Blade Runner DirectE5 6b *
33Promontory RunnerE4 6b
34Promontory DirectHVS 5a ***
35Plumline AreteE3 6a
36Plumline CrackHVS 5c *
37SpirogyraVS 4c
38CarouselambraE5 6b **
39In through the Out doorE5 6a
40Fish risingE2 5b
41Twilight ZoneE4 6a *
42Tit for TatE2 5c
43The Surf ShackE5 6b
 MASCARADE BUTTRESS 
45Newcastle BrownE1 5b
46Roll UpVS 4c
47Soft MachineE2 5c
48MaypoleHVS 4c
49High DiveE3 5c *
50Surface TensionE5 6b ***
51MascaradeE1 5c *
52WhiplashE1 5b
53Red LeadVS 5a ***
54White SlabHS 4b **
55Demons & Dead LizardsHVS 5a
56Spanking the RustbucketE3 5c
57Harry Goes WestE2 5b
58Hopelessly Treading WaterE4 6a
 LITTLE AMPHITHEATRE 
60The seven year planE2 5c *
61Amnesiac PullHS
62Cracked AreteVS 4c **
63Cruisers CreekE1 5b
64Orange FlashHVS 5a **
65Danger! U.S.RHVS 5a *
 MAIN AMPHITHEATRE 
67CaftanHVS 4c
68BazaarHVS 4c
69Solstice SlotVS 4c
70Ice EdgeVS 4c
71MastalgiaVS 4c *
72Higher BeginningVD
73Stir CrazyHVS 5a
74BouldermouseHVS 5a
75Lion CubVS 4b *
76LionHVS 5b **
77The Return of the KingE2 5c ***
78ADNIL (aka Auch!)HVS 5a *
79SunshineHVS 5a **
80Kelvin Way DAMAGEDE1 5a
 TERRACE 
82Mac's WallHVS 5a
83Short ReachE1 5b **
84Pigeon HoleVS 4c
85ExorcistHVS 5b
86Separated EdgeHVS 5a
87Christmas CornerHVS 5a
88Glass DirectE1 5a **
89GlassE1 5c
90Dream MachineE4 6a/b ***
91Quick BuckVS 5a *
92Think of ScotlandE6 6b **
 TRUNDLE SLAB 
94Glasgow No MoreVS 4c
95The JavelinE2 6a *
96A Stroll with MarigoldE1 5b *
97ReplicantE3 5c
98Sunday SlabVD
99TrundleVS 4c **
100Fool's GoldE3 5b *
101Walk on the Wild SideHVS 5a ***
102Inca TrailE1 5a *
103Midas TouchE1 5b ***
104The Gold BugE3 5c
105Gold RushE1 5b ***
106After the Gold Rush (DAMAGED)E2 5a
107After the Grave DigE1 5a *
108GolddiggerHVS 5a
 DEEP THROAT BUTTRESS 
110Deep Throat RevivedE5 6a
111Power PlayE1 5b *
112Foxy WoxyE3 5c **
113Shiny Happy PeopleE3 6a **
114Crazy DaisyHVS 5a
115Think PositiveE2 6a
116Shot In The DarkE1 5a *
117Evasive ActionVS 4c
 RIGHT HAND AMPHITHEATRE 
119B.C.'s ReturnE1 5b
120UreaVS 4c
121Stool PigeonE4 6b
122Both Toes BurningE3 6a
123The Colour PurpleE1 5b
124Red SnapperE2 5c
125Band AidE3 5c
126Race Against TimeE3 5c
127FootlooseHVS 5a
 UNKNOWN LOCATION PROBLEMS 
129Kein Trink WasserHVS 5a
 BOULDERING AREA 
131Jerk Outf6A **
132Diagonal CrackVB 4a
133Zigzag CrackVB 4a
134Tiny AreteVB 5a
135SpidermanVB 6b
136Wide CrackVB 4a
137Finger FlakesVB 4a
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JamieSparkes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please can people stop top-roping Nijinski (and adjacent routes). It's an amazing line and a great trad testpiece that really deserves better than avoiding it's true lead quality. FWIW with enough RPs and Offsets and the skill to place them, it's closer to E4. Something to save for the future if you can't lead it.
Fiend - 17/Dec/13
Council work has affected the tops of some of the car park area routes, as shown here https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5617456/IMG_0004.JPG This seems to be leading to more dirt and water coming down these lines.
Roberttaylor - 13/Feb/13
'Starry is looking a little woebegone. Other than Red Lead/Mascarade buttress and Trundle slab there's an awful lot of grass and neglect. Couple of public spirited locals needed for gardening.
IanMcC - 14/Jun/12
2 Youtube clips of the view of Auchinstarry Quarry. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d158fVJl7Ms http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCjxGOKZemk
Denpov - 14/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station the bus nunber 349 also passes the quarry. 50 pence fare August 2010. The buses take about 2 minutes.
Denpov - 10/Aug/10
From the Croy Train Station a bus service from 7.43am (no 43) goes past the quarry and is every 15mins during the day, but there may not be an evening service. Get the bus at the bus stop outside the train station Cost 1.25 August 2010. :o)
Denpov - 04/Aug/10
Currently updating the crag and getting all the routes in order. if you have a description of the last 50 or so routes especially it'd be helpful!
JamieSparkes - 27/Nov/08
Auchinstarry is a good venue for middle grade climbers in the Glasgow area. It is a disused dolerite quarry with a wee loch which folk fish and kayak on, with newly- landscaped and imroved grounds. It has excellent routes mainly in the VS- E2 range. Some of the routes have great atmosphere, such as Red Lead (VS 5a) which ascends an improbable looking wall and crack from a semi hanging belay right above the water. Watch out for local savages hurling rubbish and rocks off the top however.
I am the God of Stratheyre - 11/Apr/05
A 15 minute walk from a train station served by fairly regular trains makes this an ideal crag for someone in glasgow without a car. Personally never had any problems with the locals myself but have heard stories.
alrobertson - 18/Apr/04