Climbs 246
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Pitch 4 of Will-o'-the-Wisp and the lovely Cwm Cywarch © Peter Metcalfe

Crag features

A massive complex cliff-line in a superbly quiet location. This vast rambling mountainside, interspersing sheets of rock with towering gullies and vast amounts of heather terraces, will ideally suit strong-stomached mountaineers who can brave the "full mountain day out", or canny crag rats who will find the isolated clean walls and revel in some hidden gems. The climbing varies from long rambling easy classics to marginally accessible extreme testpieces, and polish is unlikely to be a problem.

The Mountain Club, Stafford who own the Hut Bryn Hafod that sits below the crag are in process of cleaning/restoring some of the routes, they have also produced a mini-guide. For a copy of this please go to their website http://www.themountainclub.org.uk/bryn-hafod/craig-cywarch/ and request one.

Approach notes

Turn off the A470 at Dinas Mawddwy and take take road toward Aber-Cywarch before following a minor road up the Cywarch valley.  There's a car park and only this should be used.

Access Advice

At present the only buttresses that are accessable are Tap y Graig, Craig Llywelyn and Esgair Felen Isaf. All the others require some excessive gardening. See also the work that the Mountain Club, Stafford are doing above.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pant Lygog 
2S&D
-
VD  
3Portcullis
-
S 1
4The Cywarch Finger Flake
-
E5 6a  
5Kangaroo Moon
-
E6 6b  
6Stronghold
-
S 4a 3
7Battlements
-
HS 4a 1
8Higher than the Sun
-
E3 6a  
 Tap Pant Cae 
10White Ribbon
-
HS 4a *1
11The Wizard
-
S 1
12Green Wall
-
E2 5c 1
13Dunsinane
-
HS 4a 1
14The Sting
-
HVS 5a  
15Gryptych
-
HS 4b  
16Clubs
-
S  
17Paper Back
-
HVS 5b  
18Basil Brush Stroke
-
E6 6a * 
19Room at the Top
-
HS 2
20Pencilhead
-
E3 5c  
21Penpushers Groove
-
E2 5c  
 Cwn yr Ychen 
23Kurzweg
-
D  
24Steilweg
-
S  
25Sharkfing
-
E2 5b * 
26Schnellweg
-
S  
27The WallHVS 5a  
28Taranu Crack
-
HVS 5a  
29Flashback
-
HS 4b  
 Hidden Cwm 
31Knockdown
-
VD  
 Tap Rhygan Ddu 
33Shady Saunter
-
S  
34Darkness on the Edge of Town
-
E3 6a  
35Shouts in Space
-
E3 6a  
36Chariots of Fire
-
E2 5c  
37Sulpher Mountain
-
E5 6b  
38The Devil Within
-
E6 6b  
39Tithing Man
-
E4 6a  
40Barbarism
-
E5 6b  
41Bapteme de l'Air
-
E1 5b  
42The Stud
-
E5 6c  
43Tobias
-
E5 6b  
44Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
45General Galtierei
-
HS 4a  
 Tap y Gigfran 
47Concorde
-
S  
48South West Arete
-
VD  
49Concorde Direct
-
E1 5c  
50The Clivierd Line
-
VS 4c  
51Beggars Banquet
-
HVS 5b  
52Buzzard's Balcony
-
S 3
53Little Red Rooster
-
E2 5c  
54Dream Racer
-
E2 5c 6
55Lucy in the Sky
-
HVS 5a  
56The Doghouse
-
E6 6b  
57Sci-Fi
-
E7 6b 1
58The Purge
-
E2 5c *2
59Sveinstock
-
HVS 5a 1
60Crozzly Wall
-
E4 5c 1
61Rolair
-
E3 6a  
62Fleet Air Arm
-
E5 6c  
63The Grafter
-
E3 6a 1
64Heist
-
E2 5c 1
65Tumblin' Dice
-
E2 5c  
66The Crab
-
HVS 5a 1
67Thyme
-
HVS 5b  
68Nicht Schlafen Trauma
-
E5 6b  
69Lanchester
-
HVS 4b 3
70Incapability
-
D *3
71The Gem
-
HS 4b ***7
72Jack Of Diamonds
-
HVD 6
73Hot Pants
-
VD 2
74Wright's Route
-
S  
75Sifta
-
S 1
76Salt Free
-
HVS 5a  
77Cerebos
-
S 3
78Square-Cut Gully
-
M  
79Square Chimney
-
VD  
 Tap Mawr 
81Migrane
-
HVS 5a 1
82Black Wall
-
VS 4c  
83Belli
-
HS  
84Sheep's Climb
-
M 1
85Jungle
-
VS 4b  
86Short Circuit
-
VS 4b  
87The Graveyard
-
HVS 5a 1
88Frigid Pink
-
E1 5b  
89Scourge
-
E1 5c 2
90The Mind's Eye
-
E4 5c  
91The OverlapE2 5c **1
92Old Glory
-
E4 6a  
93China Shop
-
VS 4b  
94Live Like a King
-
E5 6b  
95Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 1
96Loon Plage
-
E5 6b  
97Bear Cage
-
E4 5c  
98Tapdance
-
E5 6a  
99Peacekeeper
-
E3 6a  
100Soldier
-
E1 5b  
101Delfr
-
HVS 5a  
102Flanker
-
VD  
103The Steeple
-
VS 4b  
104Perishers
-
S  
105Frontal Crack
-
VD 1
106Little Gully
-
D  
107Barad d'Ur
-
S  
 Tap y Graig 
109Fritz The Cat
-
VD 1
110Flu '69
-
HS 4b 2
111Tappers AreteVS 4c 1
112Porcupine
-
VS  
113Sweet Baby JamesHVS 5a **11
114Mud Slide SlimVS 4c *19
115Oread
-
VS 4b 2
116Derwent
-
VS 4b 1
117Electric Rail
-
HVS 5b  
118Raindrop
-
VS 4c 2
119Bluebell Babylon
-
VS 4b 20
120Will o' the WispHVD ***283
121Pear Tree Blues
-
VS 4c 3
122Katmandu
-
HVS 4c 2
123Katmandu, Direct Start
-
E1 5c  
124A Touch of Class
-
VD 2
125Oh Calcutta
-
VS 4b  
126Elephant Wall
-
S 4a 1
127Diagonal Arete
-
D  
128Baskerville
-
HVS 5a 1
129Dancing Man
-
HVS 5a 1
130The Fortifier
-
VS 4c 2
131Central Route
-
S 1
132Thung
-
VS 4b  
133Bric-a-brac
-
VS 4b  
134Brick Wall
-
E1 5b 2
135George Machine
-
VS 4c 1
136The Comedians
-
HVS 5a  
137Second Foundation
-
E2 5c  
138Auto-Man
-
HVS 5a  
139Tombstone Blues
-
HS 4a  
140Ring Wraith
-
HVS 4b 1
141The Yellow Policeman
-
VS 4c  
142Quartzberg
-
HVS 5a  
143Surrealistic
-
S  
144Tower of Babel
-
VD *5
145The Dome
-
VS 4b 1
146Alicia
-
HVS 5a  
147Great Gully
-
D  
 Esgair Felen 
149Shade of Pale
-
E1 5b **4
150Shade of Pale Right-Hand
-
HVS 5a  
151Lone Ranger
-
HVS 5a  
152Grimbarian
-
VS 4b  
153The Mekon
-
S 3
154The Worm
-
HVS 5b  
155The Arch
-
S 2
156Lectern Direct
-
VS 4c 1
157Yggdrasil
-
VD 1
 Esgair Felen Isaf 
159Peal
-
HS 4a 1
160Recuperation
-
D 2
161RestorationVD 9
162ReconnectionD  
163TwinkHVD 2
164RetwinkHVD  
165TwinkerS 4a  
166First AnniversaryM 11
167The Archer
-
VS 4c  
168Lincoln Green
-
VS 5a  
169Inclination
-
HS  
 Hafn Mawr 
171North Gully
-
HS  
172Rolling Stone
-
S  
173All in a Day
-
E2 6b  
174Time After Tim
-
E2 6b  
175Mothers Pride
-
HS 4b 1
176Big Boy
-
E3 6a  
177Sickle Wall
-
S 4b 1
178The Scythe
-
VS 4a 1
179Apollo
-
VS 4b  
180Half Moon Crack
-
S  
181Relaxation
-
VD  
182For Hyll Drem
-
E4 5c  
183Wunderstuff
-
E5 6b  
184Hot House Flowers
-
E3 5c  
185South Face Crack
-
HS 4b  
186Don't Even Think About It
-
E5 6b  
187Bundu
-
VS 4b  
188Wig Walk
-
HS 4a  
 Sawdl y Graig 
190PhoebusVD 2
191Lethe
-
D 1
192Free Aran
-
E5 6a  
193AGM
-
VD 1
194Styx
-
VS 4b 1
195The Technician
-
E3 5c  
196Technician Direct
-
E4 5c  
197Hades
-
E1 5a 1
198Hell's Gate
-
E2 5b  
199Stygian Wall
-
VS 4c *8
200StrobeE3 6a 6
201Carrion
-
E1 5b  
202Trouble Maker
-
E2 5c  
203Tech Noir
-
E6 6b  
204Charon
-
E1 5b 1
205Pluto
-
E3 5c  
206Sweet September
-
E6 6b  
207Midsummer's Day Dream
-
E5 6b  
208Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
 Craig Llywelyn 
210Trend
-
VS 4b  
211Troom
-
VD  
212Vulcan
-
HVS 5b 1
213AcheronHVS 5a **50
214Kaisepakte
-
E1 5b  
215The Mule
-
E1 5b  
216DoomVS 4c ***84
217Italia 90
-
E2 5b  
218Guillotine
-
VS 4b  
219Northerner
-
E2 5c  
220Midlander
-
VS 4c  
221The Big Cleft
-
HVS 5a  
222Man of Kent
-
VS 4c 1
223The Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5a 1
224Click
-
VS 4b 1
225Jugs Groove
-
E3 5c 1
226Mad Ray
-
E5 6a  
227Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a  
228Pick n' Choose
-
E4 6a  
 Ffenestr y Graig 
230Hope Street
-
S 4a  
231Learning to Fly
-
E3 5c 1
232Hopsit
-
HS 4b  
233The Whisper
-
HVS 5a  
234Quartz Wall
-
E1 5c 1
235First Visit
-
HVS 5a 1
236Quartizone
-
E6 6b  
237Cat a' Nine Tails
-
E2 5c  
238Quartz Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
239Powder Monkey
-
E2 5c  
240Hard Rain
-
E2 5c  
241Plankwalk
-
HVS 5b 3
242Keel Haul
-
E2 5b ***9
243Gornik
-
S 4a  
244Ceramic Chimney
-
S  
245Sybarite
-
HVS 4b  
246Spartan
-
E2 5c  
247Crimea
-
E5 6a  
248Heretic
-
E2 5c  
249Quartz Vein
-
VS 4c  
250King Edwards Army
-
HVS 5b  
 Creigiau Sawdl Efa 
252Bubble Wall
-
HS 4b  
253Ronkle Boot Chimney
-
D  
254The Little Red Helmet
-
S  
255Where Eagles Dare
-
HVS 5a 1
256Whirligig
-
S 4a  
 Creigiau Camddwr 
258Whistling in the Dark
-
E3 5b  
259Strolling in the Park
-
E2 5b  
260First fruitV0+ 1
261The Ponytail ParadesV0- 1
262Kestral Cracks
-
VS 4

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