Climbs 356
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Pitch 4 of Will-o'-the-Wisp and the lovely Cwm Cywarch © Peter Metcalfe

Crag features

A massive complex cliff-line in a superbly quiet location. This vast rambling mountainside, interspersing sheets of rock with towering gullies and vast amounts of heather terraces, will ideally suit strong-stomached mountaineers who can brave the "full mountain day out", or canny crag rats who will find the isolated clean walls and revel in some hidden gems. The climbing varies from long rambling easy classics to marginally accessible extreme testpieces, and polish is unlikely to be a problem.

Approach notes

Turn off the A470 at Dinas Mawddwy and take take road toward Aber-Cywarch before following a minor road up the Cywarch valley.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)

Out of print:
At time of posting Tap Y Gigfran is effectively inaccessible due to the scramble approach to the ramp being blocked by gorse and brambles, as well as having serious fall potential.
Fiend - 21/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pant Lygog 
2S&D
-
VD  
3Portcullis
-
S 1
4The Cywarch Finger Flake
-
E5 6a  
5Kangaroo Moon
-
E6 6b  
6Stronghold
-
S 4a 3
7Battlements
-
HS 4a 1
8Higher than the Sun
-
E3 6a  
 Tap Pant Cae 
10White Ribbon
-
HS 4a *1
11The Wizard
-
S 1
12Green Wall
-
E2 5c 1
13Dunsinane
-
HS 4a 1
14The Sting
-
HVS 5a  
15Gryptych
-
HS 4b  
16Clubs
-
S  
17Paper Back
-
HVS 5b  
18Basil Brush Stroke
-
E6 6a * 
19Room at the Top
-
HS 2
20Pencilhead
-
E3 5c  
21Penpushers Groove
-
E2 5c  
 Cwn yr Ychen 
23Kurzweg
-
D  
24Steilweg
-
S  
25Sharkfing
-
E2 5b * 
26Schnellweg
-
S  
27The WallHVS 5a  
28Taranu Crack
-
HVS 5a  
29Flashback
-
HS 4b  
 Hidden Cwm 
31Knockdown
-
VD  
 Tap Rhygan Ddu 
33Shady Saunter
-
S  
34Darkness on the Edge of Town
-
E3 6a  
35Shouts in Space
-
E3 6a  
36Chariots of Fire
-
E2 5c  
37Sulpher Mountain
-
E5 6b  
38The Devil Within
-
E6 6b  
39Tithing Man
-
E4 6a  
40Barbarism
-
E5 6b  
41Bapteme de l'Air
-
E1 5b  
42The Stud
-
E5 6c  
43Tobias
-
E5 6b  
44Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b 1
45General Galtierei
-
HS 4a  
 Tap y Gigfran 
47Concorde
-
S  
48South West Arete
-
VD  
49Concorde Direct
-
E1 5c  
50The Clivierd Line
-
VS 4c  
51Beggars Banquet
-
HVS 5b  
52Buzzard's Balcony
-
S 3
53Little Red Rooster
-
E2 5c  
54Dream Racer
-
E2 5c 6
55Lucy in the Sky
-
HVS 5a  
56The Doghouse
-
E6 6b  
57Sci-Fi
-
E7 6b 1
58The Purge
-
E2 5c *2
59Sveinstock
-
HVS 5a 1
60Crozzly Wall
-
E4 5c 1
61Rolair
-
E3 6a  
62Fleet Air Arm
-
E5 6c  
63The Grafter
-
E3 6a 1
64Heist
-
E2 5c 1
65Tumblin' Dice
-
E2 5c  
66The Crab
-
HVS 5a 1
67Thyme
-
HVS 5b  
68Nicht Schlafen Trauma
-
E5 6b  
69Lanchester
-
HVS 4b 3
70Incapability
-
D *3
71The Gem
-
HS 4b ***7
72Jack Of Diamonds
-
HVD 6
73Hot Pants
-
VD 2
74Wright's Route
-
S  
75Sifta
-
S 1
76Salt Free
-
HVS 5a  
77Cerebos
-
S 3
78Square-Cut Gully
-
M  
79Square Chimney
-
VD  
 Tap Mawr 
81Migrane
-
HVS 5a 1
82Black Wall
-
VS 4c  
83Belli
-
HS  
84Sheep's Climb
-
M 1
85Jungle
-
VS 4b  
86Short Circuit
-
VS 4b  
87The Graveyard
-
HVS 5a 1
88Frigid Pink
-
E1 5b  
89Scourge
-
E1 5c 2
90The Mind's Eye
-
E4 5c  
91The OverlapE2 5c **1
92Old Glory
-
E4 6a  
93China Shop
-
VS 4b  
94Live Like a King
-
E5 6b  
95Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 1
96Loon Plage
-
E5 6b  
97Bear Cage
-
E4 5c  
98Tapdance
-
E5 6a  
99Peacekeeper
-
E3 6a  
100Soldier
-
E1 5b  
101Delfr
-
HVS 5a  
102Flanker
-
VD  
103The Steeple
-
VS 4b  
104Perishers
-
S  
105Frontal Crack
-
VD 1
106Little Gully
-
D  
107Barad d'Ur
-
S  
 Tap y Graig 
109Fritz The Cat
-
VD 1
110Flu '69
-
HS 4b 2
111Porcupine
-
VS  
112Sweet Baby JamesHVS 5a **11
113Mud Slide SlimVS 4c *17
114Oread
-
VS 4b 2
115Derwent
-
VS 4b 1
116Electric Rail
-
HVS 5b  
117Raindrop
-
VS 4c 2
118Bluebell Babylon
-
VS 4b 18
119Will o' the WispHVD ***270
120Pear Tree Blues
-
VS 4c 3
121Katmandu
-
HVS 4c 2
122Katmandu, Direct Start
-
E1 5c  
123A Touch of Class
-
VD 2
124Oh Calcutta
-
VS 4b  
125Elephant Wall
-
S 4a 1
126Diagonal Arete
-
D  
127Baskerville
-
HVS 5a 1
128Dancing Man
-
HVS 5a 1
129The Fortifier
-
VS 4c 2
130Central Route
-
S 1
131Thung
-
VS 4b  
132Bric-a-brac
-
VS 4b  
133Brick Wall
-
E1 5b 2
134George Machine
-
VS 4c 1
135The Comedians
-
HVS 5a  
136Second Foundation
-
E2 5c  
137Auto-Man
-
HVS 5a  
138Tombstone Blues
-
HS 4a  
139Ring Wraith
-
HVS 4b 1
140The Yellow Policeman
-
VS 4c  
141Quartzberg
-
HVS 5a  
142Surrealistic
-
S  
143Tower of Babel
-
VD *5
144The Dome
-
VS 4b 1
145Alicia
-
HVS 5a  
146Great Gully
-
D  
 Esgair Felen 
148Shade of Pale
-
E1 5b **4
149Shade of Pale Right-Hand
-
HVS 5a  
150Lone Ranger
-
HVS 5a  
151Grimbarian
-
VS 4b  
152The Mekon
-
S 3
153The Worm
-
HVS 5b  
154The Arch
-
S 2
155Lectern Direct
-
VS 4c 1
156Yggdrasil
-
VD 1
157Peal
-
HS 4a 1
158Recuperation
-
D 2
159Restoration
-
VD 7
160First Anniversary
-
M 6
161The Archer
-
VS 4c  
162Lincoln Green
-
VS 5a  
163Inclination
-
HS  
 Hafn Mawr 
165North Gully
-
HS  
166Rolling Stone
-
S  
167All in a Day
-
E2 6b  
168Time After Tim
-
E2 6b  
169Mothers Pride
-
HS 4b 1
170Big Boy
-
E3 6a  
171Sickle Wall
-
S 4b 1
172The Scythe
-
VS 4a 1
173Apollo
-
VS 4b  
174Half Moon Crack
-
S  
175Relaxation
-
VD  
176For Hyll Drem
-
E4 5c  
177Wunderstuff
-
E5 6b  
178Hot House Flowers
-
E3 5c  
179South Face Crack
-
HS 4b  
180Don't Even Think About It
-
E5 6b  
181Bundu
-
VS 4b  
182Wig Walk
-
HS 4a  
 Sawdl y Graig 
184PhoebusVD 2
185Lethe
-
D 1
186Free Aran
-
E5 6a  
187AGM
-
VD 1
188Styx
-
VS 4b 1
189The Technician
-
E3 5c  
190Technician Direct
-
E4 5c  
191Hades
-
E1 5a 1
192Hell's Gate
-
E2 5b  
193Stygian Wall
-
VS 4c *8
194StrobeE3 6a 6
195Carrion
-
E1 5b  
196Trouble Maker
-
E2 5c  
197Tech Noir
-
E6 6b  
198Charon
-
E1 5b 1
199Pluto
-
E3 5c  
200Sweet September
-
E6 6b  
201Midsummer's Day Dream
-
E5 6b  
202Girdle Traverse
-
E1 5b  
 Craig Llywelyn 
204Trend
-
VS 4b  
205Troom
-
VD  
206Vulcan
-
HVS 5b 1
207AcheronHVS 5a **30
208Kaisepakte
-
E1 5b  
209The Mule
-
E1 5b  
210DoomVS 4c ***47
211Italia 90
-
E2 5b  
212Guillotine
-
VS 4b  
213Northerner
-
E2 5c  
214Midlander
-
VS 4c  
215The Big Cleft
-
HVS 5a  
216Man of Kent
-
VS 4c 1
217The Magic Dragon
-
HVS 5a 1
218Click
-
VS 4b 1
219Jugs Groove
-
E3 5c 1
220Mad Ray
-
E5 6a  
221Girdle Traverse
-
HVS 5a  
222Pick n' Choose
-
E4 6a  
 Ffenestr y Graig 
224Hope Street
-
S 4a  
225Learning to Fly
-
E3 5c 1
226Hopsit
-
HS 4b  
227The Whisper
-
HVS 5a  
228Quartz Wall
-
E1 5c 1
229First Visit
-
HVS 5a 1
230Quartizone
-
E6 6b  
231Cat a' Nine Tails
-
E2 5c  
232Quartz Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
233Powder Monkey
-
E2 5c  
234Hard Rain
-
E2 5c  
235Plankwalk
-
HVS 5b 3
236Keel Haul
-
E2 5b ***9
237Gornik
-
S 4a  
238Ceramic Chimney
-
S  
239Sybarite
-
HVS 4b  
240Spartan
-
E2 5c  
241Crimea
-
E5 6a  
242Heretic
-
E2 5c  
243Quartz Vein
-
VS 4c  
244King Edwards Army
-
HVS 5b  
 Creigiau Sawdl Efa 
246Bubble Wall
-
HS 4b  
247Ronkle Boot Chimney
-
D  
248The Little Red Helmet
-
S  
249Where Eagles Dare
-
HVS 5a 1
250Whirligig
-
S 4a  
 Creigiau Camddwr 
252Whistling in the Dark
-
E3 5b  
253Strolling in the Park
-
E2 5b  
254First fruitV0+ 1
255The Ponytail ParadesV0- 1
256Kestral Cracks
-
VS 4
257Tappers AreteM 4c 1
258Twink *HVD  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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