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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SH 690231 (OS Landranger #124)

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These details were last updated on 26/Sep/2009

Craig y Merched

Gwynedd, WALES

Climbs 40 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 311m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A small collection of buttresses at the South East corner of the Rhinnogs, set in a lovely valley and with some fine climbs scattered amongst them. Sunny and quick drying.

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Snowdonia – Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
Meirionnydd (2002)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 NORTH WALLS  
2The GadgieE2 5b **4
3King of Sunset TownHVS 5a * 
4Andy's InitiationVD 6
 LOWER TIER  
6This Jug Aint Big Enough for the Both of UsE1 5b 1
 THREE PILLAR CRAG  
8Pas de ChatS 3
9Colonel ChinstrapE1 5c *6
10AlienHVS 5a *7
11Magic MushroomE1 5b **13
12The Haw LanternE2 5c **6
13Sunset AreteVD *17
14General SchwarzkopfHVS 5a 5
15Bleating about the BushVS 4c 10
16Right AwayHVD 2
 RHINO'S BUTTRESS  
18White Van ManVS 4c 1
19Alchemist's StoneE2 5c 2
 Climb nameGradex
20Naked DissentE2 5c 6
21The Flourish of StrumpetsE1 5c 20
22Zig ZagHS 25
23horn of plentyVS 4b 24
24Endangered SpeciesVS 4c *25
25Velvet RevolutionsVS 4c *13
26Rhino's CornerVS 5a **19
27The TuskHVS 5b *6
28The Midgy RevolutionHVS 5a *2
29Sling the Toe Nail on the RhinoE1 4c *2
 SOUTH BUTTRESS  
31Weather or NotE2 5c * 
 UPPER CRAIG Y MERCHED  
33ChandrapurHVS 5b *2
34Faltenberg ConnectionE1 5b *1
35Vermillion WashE1 5b *2
36Stockholm Express *HVS 5a 1
37PC Plod *HVS 5a *4

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
The guidebook is useless about the approach details on all counts: Overall map is wrong (underestimates distance and misses off several track junctions), photo view is wrong (shows arrows on track pointing wrong way) AND the description is wrong (no stile, doesn't mention track leading off, misses out details).

Thus: Follow the minor road off the A483 opposite the toll bridge for a couple of miles until it forks and both tracks are gated, park car. Walk along the right hand forestry track for 1.4 miles, the crags are visible on the right just before this point. There is a grassy track cutting back diagonally rightwards, this is just before the second small stream and the main track curving left then up and right. Follow the grassy track until it deteriorates in 100m, then take a faint path leftwards up the hillside, over a large wall, and to the crags.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sgl0jd ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The "Follow the right forestry path" is somewhat misleading now, as a new path has been cut that looks like it goes straight up to the crags. Do not take this unless you are partial to a two hour boggy scramble to get to the crag. Keep on going on the base of the valley until you are almost below the crag.
neuromancer ? - 05/Oct/12

Great little crag! We did a few routes on one of the buttresses, but there is plenty of scope for those climbing up to E2, and quite a lot of good-looking rock which isn't in the guide.
Andrew Barker - 09/Feb/06