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Craig y MerchedMeirionnydd, WALES
Climbs 85 – Rocktype Gritstone – Altitude 311m a.s.l – Faces SW
The valley's honeypot is Rhino's Buttress. Even though it is quite scruffy and a long way from being the best or most accessible crag in the Rhinogydd, this little buttress is (inexplicably) popular. Nearby is the far less visited Three Pillar Crag, which is very worthwhile and deserves far greater popularity. Similarly, the whole of Upper Craig y Merched is unfairly neglected.
There has been a lot of development here since the 2002 guide, with loads of new routes on brand new crags as well as on existing ones. The area is currently being checked for a new guidebook.
Approach from the A496 as described in the Meirionnydd guide. Then follow the track that leads towards Blaen Cwm Mynach from the car park. Just before the old farmhouse, turn right to head into the forest via a stile. Go virtually straight ahead at forest road junction and take a minor forest track to the left. Follow this track for about 100 metres and from the outside of a bend, take a faint path leftwards to climb steeply up the hillside towards Craig y Merched’s Rhino’s Buttress. Cross a stone wall to more open ground. The increasingly indistinct path now skirts the left side of the open ground ahead to reach the scree at the base of Rhino's Buttress. Allow 40-45 minutes from the car park.
(Note: This approach will NOT get you to South Buttress, Explorers' Wall and Bear Rock as these are located some distance to the south.)
For the Upper Craig y Merched crags, continue ascending past Rhino's Buttress to cross the stone wall. There is a faint path to Upper Craig y Merched's Central Buttress (which is described in Meirionnydd), but not to any of the other crags.
Climbs at this crag
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