Climbs 86
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 311m a.s.l
Faces SW

The Haw Lantern © jim jones

Crag features

Craig y Merched is the collective name for a number of gritstone buttresses at the head of the Cwm Mynach valley in the southern Rhinogydd. All the crags have a sunny aspect and are quick to dry.

Craig y Merched and indeed the valley's honeypot is Rhino's Buttress. Even though it is quite scruffy and a very long way from being the best or even the most accessible crag in the Rhinogydd, this little buttress is inexplicably popular. Nearby is the far less visited Three Pillar Crag, which is very worthwhile and deserves far greater popularity. Similarly, all the Upper Craig y Merched crags give good climbing and are unfairly neglected.

There has been a lot of still continuing development here since the 2002 guide, with loads of new routes on brand new crags as well as on existing ones. The area is currently being checked for a new guidebook.

Further information:
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/rhinog02to09august.pdf

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

The "Follow the right forestry path" is somewhat misleading now, as a new path has been cut that looks like it goes straight up to the crags. Do not take this unless you are partial to a two hour boggy scramble to get to the crag. Keep on going on the base of the valley until you are almost below the crag.
neuromancer - 05/Oct/12
Great little crag! We did a few routes on one of the buttresses, but there is plenty of scope for those climbing up to E2, and quite a lot of good-looking rock which isn't in the guide.
Andrew Barker - 09/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Walls 
2Napoleonic LegacyVS 4b  
3A Good Spoon Full
-
E1 5c  
4The GadgieE2 5b **4
5King of Sunset TownHVS 5a * 
6Andy's Initiation
-
VD *7
7The Three Mosquitoes
-
HS 4b  
8Midge Attack
-
E1 5b 1
9Rhythm of the Drones
-
E1 5b  
 Lower Tier 
11Brief Encounter
-
E2 5c  
12Helical Spire
-
E1 5b  
13This Jug Aint Big Enough for the Both of Us
-
E1 5b 1
 Three Pillar Crag 
15Call me WemageVS 4c 1
16Pas de ChatS 4
17Colonel Chinstrap
-
E1 5c *7
18Alien
-
HVS 5a *11
19Magic Mushroom
-
E1 5b **18
20Pack RatE1 6a  
21The Haw LanternE3 5c **8
22Sunset AreteVD *28
23General Schwarzkopf
-
HVS 5a 8
24Bleating about the BushVS 4c *13
25Right Away
-
HVD 4
 Rhino's Buttress 
27Rhino's BumHVS 5a 2
28Naked Dissent
-
E2 5c 10
29Alchemist's Stone
-
E2 5c 2
30Sunshine Supernan
-
E1 5c 1
31The Flourish of Strumpets
-
E1 5c 29
32Zig Zag
-
HS 36
33Fig AreteVS 4c  
34Dixon of Dock GreenHS 4b 3
35Pachyderm SlabHS 4b 1
36Horn of Plenty
-
VS 4b 28
37Rhino HuntingHVS 5a  
38Endangered Species
-
VS 4c *31
39Velvet RevolutionsVS 4c **17
40Rhino's CornerVS 5a ***26
41The Tusk
-
HVS 5b *7
42Hanging Ten on the NoseE2 5b  
43The Midgy RevolutionHVS 5a 2
44Sling the Toe Nail on the Rhino
-
E1 4c 2
45Yr AnweledigMS 3c * 
46Plenty of HornVS 4c  
 Lone Buttress 
48Stoney Stanton Road NickHS 4a  
49PogonophobiaHVS 5a  
 Pinnacle Buttress 
51A Woman for all SeasonsVS 4c  
52The Stunt ClubVS 4b  
53Gritstone GrandadE1 5b  
 South Buttress 
55Monday Morning Mizzle
-
HVS 4c  
56Weather or Not
-
E2 5c * 
57The Weatherman's Yarn
-
VS 4c  
 Explorersí Wall 
59Dr Taylor I Presume?HVS 5a  
 Bear Rock 
61Keanned OutVS 4c  
62Bear Rock Crack ClimberHVS 5a  
63Aidirondack ExperienceVS 4b  
 Upper Craig y Merched: Craig Llyn Bach y Forwyn 
65Raven's Tryst
-
VS 4b ** 
66Infinite Monkey CageE2 5b  
67The SonE3 5c  
68UncleanHS 4b  
69The TalkE1 5b  
70Inside the BrainE2 5b  
 Upper Craig y Merched: Carreg y Gors 
72Behind Blue EyesVS 4c 3
73Erection by PrescriptionHVS 5a  
74The Irony of Ecstasy/ Y Cymro OlafHVS 5a *3
75Bits in the Brain
-
HVS 5a  
76A Question of Exclusion
-
HVS 5a  
77SundewHVS 5a 1
78Seconds Away
-
HS 4a  
 Upper Craig y Merched: Central Wall 
80Chandrapur
-
HVS 5b *2
81Stockholm Express
-
HVS 5a 1
82Faltenberg Connection
-
E1 5b *1
83Vermillion Wash
-
E1 5b *2
84Burnt Umber
-
HVS 5b  
85Quad Booster
-
E2 5b  
 UPPER CRAIG Y MERCHED: Gully Wall 
87Must be the Beans
-
VS 4c *1
 Upper Craig y Merched: Craig y Gwalch 
89Aderyn PiwisHVS 5a *1
90SingalongathongVS 4b  
91Mighty MidgeVS 4c  
92BanditVS 4c  
93Goats Do GroanHVS 5b 1
94Dimwit
-
VS 4b  
 UPPER CRAIG Y MERCHED: Craig y Lleuad 
96Voodoo Chili
-
S 4a 1
97Apres Slaw
-
S 4a *1
98The Flat Earth Society!
-
HVS 5b *2
99Meddwi Lleuad
-
HVS 5b *1
100We Are Made of Star Stuff
-
E2 5c *1

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