UKC

Climbs 22
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2847m a.s.l
Faces all

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Golden Sundown on Les Dru, Chamonix Valley © ChrisJD

Crag features

Mont Blanc Massif 

Approach notes

For climbs in the Nant Blanc Glacier (N and W faces) either: Take the Grand Montets lift, traverse levelled to the GM ridge, cross it and descend via a 350m couloir (loose rock, 1 abseil in the bottom 3rd)to the Nant Blanc glacier.
Or take the train to Montenvers, descent to the glacier and walk up for 400m, climb the moraine in the opposite side and follow a faint arette to the bottom of the climbs.
Excellent bivy spots in the rognons below the W and N faces.

For routes in the South and SE faces, walk up the Charpoua glacier from the hut for 350m and work your way left through the crevasses after the rock spur.

Smith42. 23 July 2018

Its worth checking out the approach from Grande Montets, we needed 5 abiels down the couloir to reach the NB glacier, and then another abseil from the glacier.  (2-3hrs)

The ladderes from Montenvers are NOT IN PLACE.  there were removed two years ago so not sure how you can approach from there, you can make two 55m abseils when descending. 

Seracs were falling when we passed so dont hang about!

No Access Issues

For climbs in the Nant Blanc Glacier (N and W faces) either: Take the Grand Montets lift, traverse levelled to the GM ridge, cross it and descend via a 350m couloir (loose rock, 1 abseil in the bottom 3rd)to the Nant Blanc glacier.
Or take the train to Montenvers, descent to the glacier and walk up for 400m, climb the moraine in the opposite side and follow a faint arette to the bottom of the climbs.
Excellent bivy spots in the rognons below the W and N faces.

For routes in the South and SE faces, walk up the Charpoua glacier from the hut for 350m and work your way left through the crevasses after the rock spur.

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