Climbs 47
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1049m a.s.l
Faces SE

Shameless posing at the base of the best handcrack of the summer © Patrick Daniel

Crag features

Arch Rock is one of the best "crags" in Yosemite Valley with an excellent selection of single and (short) multi-pitch routes on some of the best rock in the Valley. The climbing predominantly follows clean cracks and the wide nature of these cracks makes for some strenuous outings.

Despite the wide nature of the climbing, most of the routes can be well protected with cams up to #6 BD Camalot or equivalent. This fact, along with the length of the routes makes this an excellent place to develop wide crack technique which is more or less essential on many of the longer free climbs in the Valley.

Arch Rock is located in the Lower Merced River Canyon, 15 miles west of the main Yosemite Valley above the park entrance station on Highway 140. This canyon is lower elevation than the main valley and can have significantly different weather. It can be dry even when it is raining in the valley and is usually a good few degrees warmer. This fact, and its SE aspect make it an excellent winter venue or a good choice on cooler days. On many spring and autumn days, when it is sunny in the valley, it will likely be too hot to climb here.

The "crag" is spread over multiple tiers, though all the classic routes are on the lowest, tier and routes on the upper-tiers are much less frequently climbed. Gripper, Midterm, New Dimensions, Leanie Meanie and Anticipation are all superb.

 

Approach notes

Park either at the parking lot next to the park entrance station, or at the small lot beneath the crag itself. The crag is obvious from the road: follow an intermittent trail up the talus to the base of Midterm. 20min.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower Tier 
2Dirty Little Secret5.9  
3Constipation5.11d * 
4Anticipation5.11b **2
5Supplication5.10c *4
6Inner Sanctum5.11c *2
7Application5.9 *1
8T.K.O.5.11c ** 
9Punchline5.12c ** 
10Entrance Exam
-
5.9 **4
11Blotto aka Axis5.10d *1
12Goldilocks
-
5.12a 1
13The Principle5.12b 1
14English Breakfast Crack5.10c *11
15Sidetrack5.11a  
16Midterm5.10b ***12
17Leanie Meanie5.11b ***9
18Gripper5.10b ***11
19Two "D"5.10c  
20Bachar's Ring Job5.11d * 
21New Dimensions5.11a ***20
22The Voyage5.10c * 
23Klemens' Escape5.9 * 
24Inchworm5.11b  
25Grokin'5.11b  
 Upper Tier, Left 
27Now
-
5.10a  
28Omakara
-
5.12b * 
29Later
-
5.11a  
30GRE
-
5.11b  
31SAT
-
5.12a  
32Ultimate Emotion
-
5.11c  
33Skateaway
-
5.10a  
34The Bin
-
5.10d * 
35Arch Rock Pinnacle Per-Spire-ation
-
5.10b  
36Arch Rock Pinnacle Original Route
-
5.5  
37Pass or Fail
-
5.10b  
38Cross-Country Crack
-
5.9  
39Kindergarten Crack
-
5.8  
40Quickie Quizzes, left
-
5.10a  
41Quickie Quizzes, Right
-
5.10b * 
 Upper Tier Right 
43Nerf Test
-
5.8  
44Extra Credit
-
5.10d  
45Juliette's Flake, Left Side
-
5.8  
46Juliette's Flake, Right Side
-
5.1  
47Cosmic Messenger
-
5.11a * 
48Goldfinger
-
5.12a ** 
49Torque Converter
-
5.11d * 
50Stealth Technology
-
5.11a  

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