Arch Rock

Climbs 47 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1049m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Arch Rock is one of the best "crags" in Yosemite Valley with an excellent selection of single and (short) multi-pitch routes on some of the best rock in the Valley. The climbing predominantly follows clean cracks and the wide nature of these cracks makes for some strenuous outings.

Despite the wide nature of the climbing, most of the routes can be well protected with cams up to #6 BD Camalot or equivalent. This fact, along with the length of the routes makes this an excellent place to develop wide crack technique which is more or less essential on many of the longer free climbs in the Valley.

Arch Rock is located in the Lower Merced River Canyon, 15 miles west of the main Yosemite Valley above the park entrance station on Highway 140. This canyon is lower elevation than the main valley and can have significantly different weather. It can be dry even when it is raining in the valley and is usually a good few degrees warmer. This fact, and its SE aspect make it an excellent winter venue or a good choice on cooler days. On many spring and autumn days, when it is sunny in the valley, it will likely be too hot to climb here.

The "crag" is spread over multiple tiers, though all the classic routes are on the lowest, tier and routes on the upper-tiers are much less frequently climbed. Gripper, Midterm, New Dimensions, Leanie Meanie and Anticipation are all superb.

Approach. Park either at the parking lot next to the park entrance station, or at the small lot beneath the crag itself. The crag is obvious from the road: follow an intermittent trail up the talus to the base of Midterm. 20min.

Approach notes
In most years Arch Rock is subject to a climbing ban to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Typically this ban runs from March 1st until mid August, though it is often lifted earlier if the birds don't nest. It is strongly recommended that climbers check access restrictions before visiting this crag and respect them if they are in place.

Guidebooks
Yosemite Valley Free Climbs (2003),
Out of print: Yosemite Free Climbs (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LOWER TIER  
2Dirty Little Secret5.9  
3Constipation5.11d * 
4Anticipation5.11b **2
5Supplication5.10c *1
6Inner Sanctum5.11c *1
7Application5.9 *1
8T.K.O.5.11c ** 
9Punchline5.12c ** 
10Entrance Exam5.9 **4
11Blotto aka Axis5.10d *1
12Goldilocks5.12a 1
13The Principle5.12b 1
14English Breakfast Crack5.10c *8
15Sidetrack5.11a  
16Midterm5.10b ***12
17Leanie Meanie5.11b ***8
18Gripper5.10b ***9
19Two "D"5.10c  
20Bachar's Ring Job5.11d * 
21New Dimensions5.11a ***16
22The Voyage5.10c * 
23Klemens' Escape5.9 * 
24Inchworm5.11b  
25Grokin'5.11b  
 UPPER TIER, LEFT  
27Now5.10a  
28Omakara5.12b * 
29Later5.11a  
30GRE5.11b  
31SAT5.12a  
32Ultimate Emotion5.11c  
33Skateaway5.10a  
34The Bin5.10d * 
35Arch Rock Pinnacle Per-Spire-ation5.10b  
36Arch Rock Pinnacle Original Route5.5  
37Pass or Fail5.10b  
38Cross-Country Crack5.9  
39Kindergarten Crack5.8  
40Quickie Quizzes, left5.10a  
41Quickie Quizzes, Right5.10b * 
 UPPER TIER RIGHT  
43Nerf Test5.8  
44Extra Credit5.10d  
45Juliette's Flake, Left Side5.8  
46Juliette's Flake, Right Side5.1  
47Cosmic Messenger5.11a * 
48Goldfinger5.12a ** 
49Torque Converter5.11d * 
50Stealth Technology5.11a  
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