UKC

Climbs 329
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1155m a.s.l
Faces all

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In the jaws of The Black Spout © MrRiley

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Approach notes

Carpark charge of £5 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick carpark. Can pay by card.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. 

No Access Issues

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Car park is now £3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

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