Climbs 143
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 SOUTHERN SECTOR 
 The Sentinal 
3Bells on the RocksI 3
4Sonshine CornerIII 5
5Fluffy FaceIV 4 *2
6Pea Soup ChimneyIV 4 1
7Red LightningII 3
8Jacob's SlabsIII 4 *12
9Starlight and StormV 5 *3
10Sentinel Couloir
-
II 4
 Sunset Buttress 
12IffyIV 4 2
13Sunset GullyIII 8
14Quick Dash CrackIV 5 4
15Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 *2
16Sunset Buttress DirectIV 7 **5
17Pelican GrooveII/III 2
18Triangle Buttress
-
II 6
19Red SpoutI *14
 Perseverance Wall 
21Perseverance GrooveII 4
22Forgotten RunnelII 1
23Never Say DieIII 4 *3
24Perseverance Rib
-
III 10
25Most Likely You Go Your WayIII 2
26StarburstII 4
27Gale Force GrooveIII *4
28The Gift
-
II **13
29Cumberland
-
III 1
30TemptressIII *2
 The Cathedral 
32UnknownII * 
33Ghost Dance
-
V 6 *9
34Transcept GrooveIV 5 *8
35Transept RouteV 6 **10
36SepulchreV 6 **14
37SpellboundVI 7 **2
38Judas Priest
-
V 5 *4
39TrinityVI 7 *1
40Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 **32
41Magic PillarIV 5 ***63
42Forsaken Gully
-
II 31
 Sinister Buttress 
44Gully RouteII 7
45Central Gully
-
I 24
 MAIN SECTOR 
 Central Buttress 
48Central Buttress
-
II **133
49Central Buttress(summer)
-
M *15
50Fancy FreeVII 9 **1
51Footloose
-
VII 8 **1
52Mantichore
-
VII 7 **4
53Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
54Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 *3
55Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 3
56CentristV 5 **10
57Sciolist
-
IV 4 *2
58Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
 Shadow Buttress A 
60Shadow Rib
-
V 5 *2
61Shadowlands
-
VI 7 ***7
62Shadow Buttress A, Original RouteIV 5 ***131
63Shadow Buttress A, Bell's RouteIII *4
64Moonshadow
-
V 5 **14
65Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
66Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
67Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 ***122
 Shadow Buttress B 
69Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 * 
70Bell's Route
-
V 6 **23
71Turf Route
-
IV 4 **4
72Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 **3
73PenumbraV 5 **3
74Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 16
 Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress 
76Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S ***538
77Eagle RidgeVI 6 ***143
78Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 *5
79Eagle GrooveIV 5 *1
80Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 ***3
81Parallel Gully A
-
III ***114
82Parallel A Gully Right ForkIV 4 **13
83Parallel ButtressVI 6 14
84Parallel Gully BV 5 ***34
 Tough-Brown Face 
86Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 *9
87Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
88NymphVII ***1
89Crypt
-
VI 7  
90Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 ***1
91Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 *** 
92Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 ***1
93Mort
-
IX 9 ***1
94Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 *** 
95Tough Guy
-
VII 7 ***5
96Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 **6
 Raeburn's Gully 
98Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 10
99Raeburn's Gully
-
II ***255
100The ClamV 6 **3
101Scarface WallVIII 8 ***1
102Scarface
-
V 4 10
103Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
 Black Spout Pinnacle 
105Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 18
106Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b *2
107Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
108Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a **10
109The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c ** 
110The Link Face
-
VII 7 *** 
111Link Direct
-
VIII 7 ***2
112Nihilist
-
E1 5b *3
113Nihilist Extremist CombinationE2 5b **1
114The Existentialist
-
E6 6b ** 
115Route OneV 6 7
116Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c ***8
117Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 *** 
118Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b ** 
119Route 2
-
S *3
120Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 **2
121The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
122Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 1
123Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 7
124Black Spout Left Hand BranchI **98
 The Stack 
126Crumbling CrannyII **42
127HeliopolisE3 5c **3
128UtramontaneE4 6a **2
129The Stack
-
V 6 **4
130The Black Spout
-
I 159
131The Black Spout, Right-Hand FinishIII 4 5
132The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
 West Buttress 
134Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D *52
135Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 ***62
136Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
137Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 ***2
138ApophisE7 6b 1
139West Gully
-
IV 4 **46
140Gelder ButtressIII 4 2
 COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE 
142Central Icefall, Coire Na SaobhaidheIII 5
 COIRE LOCH NAN EUN 
144Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
145Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I **58
146Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 5
147Bonanza
-
V 7 **1
148First LightIV 5 **2
149New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 4 1
150Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 5
151The SorcererV 6 *3
152No Worries GrooveV 6 * 
153Mort
-
E2 ** 
154Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
VS  
155Hey BuddyIII 4 1
156The CrackerVII 8 **1
157Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 *1
158Slab GullyIII 2
159WindfallIII *3
160Lunar Eclipse *
-
III *2
161ChevalierV 7 * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S