Climbs 145
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

Grovel Wall-Ian Duckworth about to ab off a tied off blade... © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Approach notes

Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Car park is now 3 for the day
timday - 16/Mar/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 SOUTHERN SECTOR 
 The Sentinal 
3Bells on the RocksI 3
4Sonshine CornerIII 6
5Fluffy FaceIV 4 *2
6Pea Soup ChimneyIV 4 1
7Red LightningII 3
8Jacob's SlabsIII 4 *16
9Starlight and StormV 5 *3
10Sentinel Couloir
-
II 6
 Sunset Buttress 
12IffyIV 4 2
13Sunset GullyIII 8
14Quick Dash CrackIV 5 4
15Sunset Buttress
-
III 5 *2
16Sunset Buttress DirectIV 7 **5
17Pelican GrooveII/III 2
18Triangle Buttress
-
II 8
19Red SpoutI *16
 Perseverance Wall 
21Perseverance GrooveII 4
22Forgotten RunnelII 1
23Never Say DieIII 4 *3
24Perseverance Rib
-
III 10
25The HandrailIII 4 1
26Most Likely You Go Your WayIII 2
27StarburstII 4
28Gale Force GrooveIII *4
29Lunar Eclipse
-
III *2
30The Gift
-
II **13
31Cumberland
-
III 1
32TemptressIII *2
33WindfallIII *3
 The Cathedral 
35UnknownII * 
36Ghost Dance
-
V 6 *9
37Transcept GrooveIV 5 *8
38Transept RouteV 6 **10
39SepulchreV 6 **14
40SpellboundVI 7 **2
41Judas Priest
-
V 5 *8
42TrinityVI 7 *1
43The CrackerVII 8 **1
44Cathedral Chimney
-
IV 4 **32
45Magic PillarIV 5 ***44
46No Worries GrooveV 6 * 
47The SorcererV 6 *3
48Forsaken Gully
-
II 31
 Sinister Buttress 
50Gully RouteII 7
51Central Gully
-
I 22
 MAIN SECTOR 
 Central Buttress 
54Central Buttress
-
II **140
55Central Buttress(summer)
-
M *17
56Fancy FreeVII 9 **1
57Footloose
-
VII 8 **1
58Mantichore
-
VII 7 **4
59Mantichore (Summer)
-
E1 5b 1
60Central Buttress Direct
-
IV 6 *3
61Central Buttress Direct Alternative start
-
V 6 4
62ChevalierV 7 * 
63CentristV 5 **10
64Sciolist
-
IV 4 *2
65Magical Mystery Tour
-
V 6 *1
66Shallow Gully
-
IV 4 8
 Shadow Buttress A 
68Shadow Rib
-
V 5 *2
69Shadowlands
-
VI 7 ***7
70Shadow Buttress A, Original RouteIV 5 ***117
71Shadow Buttress A, Bell's RouteIII *4
72Moonshadow
-
V 5 **14
73Giant's Head Chimney Direct
-
V 5 1
74Giant's Head Chimney
-
IV 4 11
75Polyphemus Gully
-
V 5 ***103
 Shadow Buttress B 
77Raeburn's Groove
-
VII 7 * 
78Bell's Route
-
V 6 **23
79Turf Route
-
IV 4 **4
80Shadow Buttress B
-
V 6 **3
81PenumbraV 5 **3
82Douglas-Gibson Gully
-
V 4 16
 Eagle Ridge and Parallel Buttress 
84Eagle Ridge (summer)
-
S ***605
85Eagle RidgeVI 6 ***149
86Eagle Buttress
-
IV 3 *5
87Eagle GrooveIV 5 *1
88Where Eagles Dare
-
VII 8 ***5
89Parallel Gully A
-
III ***81
90Parallel A Gully Right ForkIV 4 **16
91Parallel ButtressVI 6 14
92Parallel Gully BV 5 ***37
 Tough-Brown Face 
94Tough-Brown Traverse
-
IV 3 *9
95Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)
-
VD 1
96NymphVII ***1
97Crypt
-
VI 7  
98Trail Of Tears
-
VII 7 ***1
99Diedre of the Sorrows
-
VIII 8 *** 
100Crazy Sorrow
-
IX 10 ***1
101Mort
-
IX 9 ***1
102Mort (summer)
-
E2 ** 
103Rolling Thunder
-
VII 7 *** 
104Tough Guy
-
VII 7 ***10
105Tough Brown Ridge Direct
-
V 6 **6
106Tough Brown Ridge Direct (summer)
-
VS  
 Raeburn's Gully 
108Backdoor Route
-
IV 4 10
109Raeburn's Gully
-
II ***274
110The ClamV 6 **3
111Scarface WallVIII 8 ***1
112Scarface
-
V 4 10
113Amphitheatre Route
-
III 2
 Black Spout Pinnacle 
115Pinnacle Gully 1
-
III 19
116Pinnacle Face (summer)
-
VS 4b *3
117Pinnacle Face
-
VI 7 6
118Pinnacle Grooves (summer)
-
HVS 5a **10
119The Link (summer)
-
VS 4c ** 
120The Link Face
-
VII 7 *** 
121Link Direct
-
VIII 7 ***2
122Nihilist
-
E1 5b *3
123Nihilist Extremist CombinationE2 5b **2
124The Existentialist
-
E6 6b ** 
125Route OneV 6 7
126Black Spout Wall
-
E3 5c ***17
127Winter Black Spout Wall
-
IX 9 *** 
128Steep Frowning Glories
-
E6 6b ** 
129Route 2
-
S *3
130Route 2 (Winter)
-
VI 6 **3
131The Ice Ox
-
IV 4 3
132Twin Chimneys Route
-
IV 5 1
133Slab GullyIII 2
134Pinnacle Gully 2
-
II 7
135Black Spout Left Hand BranchI **89
 The Stack 
137Crumbling CrannyII **33
138HeliopolisE3 5c **2
139UtramontaneE4 6a **2
140The Stack
-
V 6 **4
141The Black Spout
-
I 158
142The Black Spout, Right-Hand FinishIII 4 5
143The White Spout
-
IV 4 5
 West Buttress 
145Black Spout Buttress (summer)
-
D *53
146Black Spout Buttress
-
III 5 ***50
147Gargoyle Chimney
-
IV 4 7
148Prince Of Darkness
-
VI 7 ***2
149ApophisE7 6b 1
150West Gully
-
IV 4 **41
151Gelder ButtressIII 4 2
 COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE 
153Central Icefall, Coire Na SaobhaidheIII 5
 COIRE LOCH NAN EUN 
155Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
III 1
156Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
I **55
157Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)
-
1 5
158Bonanza
-
V 7 **1
159First LightIV 5 **2
160New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 4 1
161Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)
-
II 5
162Stegosaurus Rib (summer)2 1
163White Mounth Five *summit ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S