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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NO 245857 (OS Landranger #44)

Lochnagar

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 128 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 900m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Weather forecast

Today	Wed	Thu	Fri	Sat

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath – Met Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), Scottish Rock - South (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	SOUTHERN SECTOR
	THE SENTINAL
3	Bells on the Rocks	I	3
4	Sonshine Corner	III	5
5	Fluffy Face	IV 4 *	2
6	Pea Soup Chimney	IV 4	1
7	Red Lightning	II	3
8	Jacob's Slabs	III 4 *	7
9	Sentinel Couloir	II	3
	SUNSET BUTTRESS
11	Iffy	IV 4	2
12	Sunset Gully	III	7
13	Quick Dash Crack	IV 5	4
14	Sunset Buttress Direct	IV 7 **	5
15	Pelican Groove	II/III	2
16	Triangle Buttress	II	6
17	Red Spout	I *	11
	PERSEVERANCE WALL
19	Perseverance Groove	II	4
20	Forgotten Runnel	II	1
21	Never Say Die	III 4 *	3
22	Perseverance Rib	III	6
23	Most Likely You Go Your Way	III	2
24	Starburst	II	3
25	Gale Force Groove	III *	4
26	The Gift	II **	12
27	Cumberland	III	1
28	Temptress	III *	2
	THE CATHEDRAL
30	Unknown	II *
31	Ghost Dance	V 6 *	7
32	Transcept Groove	IV 5 *	6
33	Transept Route	V 6 **	8
34	Sepulchre	V 6 **	10
35	Spellbound	VI 7 **	2
36	Judas Priest	V 5 *	5
37	Trinity	VI 7 *	1
38	Cathedral Chimney	IV 4 **	23
39	Magic Pillar	IV 5 ***	23
40	Forsaken Gully	II	26
	SINISTER BUTTRESS
42	Gully Route	II	7
43	Central Gully	I	15
	MAIN SECTOR
	CENTRAL BUTTRESS
46	Central Buttress	II	86
47	Central Buttress(summer)	M *	6
48	Fancy Free	VII 9 **	1
49	Footloose	VII 8 **	1
50	Mantichore	VII 7 **	1
51	Mantichore (Summer)	E1 5b	1
52	Central Buttress Direct	IV 6 *	1
53	Central Buttress Direct Alternative start	V 6	2
54	Centrist	V 5 **	5
55	Sciolist	IV 4 *	2
56	Shallow Gully	IV 4	6
	SHADOW BUTTRESS A
58	Shadow Rib	V 5 *	2
59	Shadowlands	VI 7 ***	4
60	Shadow Buttress A, Original Route	IV 5 ***	78
61	Shadow Buttress A, Bell's Route	III *	4
62	Moonshadow	V 5 **	11
63	Giant's Head Chimney Direct	V 5
64	Giant's Head Chimney	IV 4	6
65	Polyphemus Gully	V 5 ***	51
	SHADOW BUTTRESS B
67	Raeburn's Groove	VII 7 *
68	Bell's Route	V 6 **	15
69	Turf Route	IV 4 **	2
70	Shadow Buttress B	V 6 **	2
71	Penumbra	V 5 **	3
72	Douglas-Gibson Gully	V 4	12
	EAGLE RIDGE AND PARALLEL BUTTRESS

	Climb name	Grade	x

74	Eagle Ridge (summer)	S ***	263
75	Eagle Ridge	VI 6 ***	58
76	Eagle Buttress	IV 3 *	2
77	Eagle Groove	IV 5 *	1
78	Where Eagles Dare	VII 8 ***	1
79	Parallel Gully A	III ***	65
80	Parallel A Gully Right Fork	IV 4 **	11
81	Parallel Buttress	VI 6	10
82	Parallel Gully B	V 5 ***	18
	TOUGH-BROWN FACE
84	Tough-Brown Traverse	IV 3 *	9
85	Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)	VD	1
86	Nymph	VII ***	1
87	Crypt	VI 7
88	Trail Of Tears	VII 7 ***	1
89	Diedre of the Sorrows	VIII 8 ***
90	Crazy Sorrow	IX 10 ***	1
91	Mort	IX 9 ***	1
92	Rolling Thunder	VII 7 ***
93	Tough Guy	VII 7 ***	4
94	Tough Brown Ridge Direct	V 6 **	3
	RAEBURN'S GULLY
96	Backdoor Route	IV 4	7
97	Raeburn's Gully	II ***	137
98	The Clam	V 6 **	1
99	Scarface Wall	VIII 8 ***	1
100	Scarface	V 4	10
101	Amphitheatre Route	III	2
	BLACK SPOUT PINNACLE
103	Pinnacle Gully 1	III	13
104	Pinnacle Face (summer)	VS 4b *	2
105	Pinnacle Face	VI 7	3
106	Pinnacle Grooves (summer)	HVS 5a **	4
107	The Link (summer)	VS 4c **
108	The Link Face	VII 7 ***
109	Link Direct	VIII 7 ***	2
110	Nihilist	E1 5b *	3
111	The Existentialist	E6 6b **
112	Route One	V 6	7
113	Black Spout Wall	E3 5c ***
114	Winter Black Spout Wall	IX 9 ***
115	Steep Frowning Glories	E6 6b **
116	Route 2	S *	2
117	Route 2 (Winter)	VI 6 **	1
118	The Ice Ox	IV 4	3
119	Twin Chimneys Route	IV 5	1
120	Pinnacle Gully 2	II	6
121	Black Spout Left Hand Branch	I **	65
	THE STACK
123	Crumbling Cranny	II **	26
124	Heliopolis	E3 5c **	1
125	Utramontane	E4 6a **	1
126	The Stack	V 6 **	2
127	The Black Spout	I	115
128	The Black Spout, Right-Hand Finish	III 4	3
129	The White Spout	IV 4	5
	WEST BUTTRESS
131	Black Spout Buttress (summer)	D *	42
132	Black Spout Buttress	III 5	36
133	Gargoyle Chimney	IV 4	5
134	Prince Of Darkness	VI 7 ***	1
135	Apophis	E7 6b	1
136	West Gully	IV 4 **	32
137	Gelder Buttress	III 4	2
	COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE
139	Central Icefall, Coire Na Saobhaidhe	III	5
	COIRE LOCH NAN EUN
141	Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)	III	1
142	Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)	I	23
143	Bonanza	V 7 **	1
144	First Light	IV 5 **	2
145	New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)	III 4	1
146	Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)	II	5

Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports
Aviemore, HIGHLAND
www.ellis-brigham.com

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Access notes
Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S