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These details were last updated on 29/Nov/2005

Lochnagar

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 900m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

1.4mm rain
Sunny periods
10 °C
21 kph

2.6mm rain
Sun
11 °C
15 kph

1.0mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
13 kph

5.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
18 kph

1.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTHERN SECTOR  
 THE SENTINAL  
3Bells on the RocksI 3
4Sonshine CornerIII 5
5Fluffy FaceIV 4 *2
6Pea Soup ChimneyIV 4 1
7Red LightningII 3
8Jacob's SlabsIII 4 *10
9Sentinel CouloirII 4
 SUNSET BUTTRESS  
11IffyIV 4 2
12Sunset GullyIII 7
13Quick Dash CrackIV 5 4
14Sunset Buttress DirectIV 7 **5
15Pelican GrooveII/III 2
16Triangle ButtressII 6
17Red SpoutI *11
 PERSEVERANCE WALL  
19Perseverance GrooveII 4
20Forgotten RunnelII 1
21Never Say DieIII 4 *3
22Perseverance RibIII 6
23Most Likely You Go Your WayIII 2
24StarburstII 3
25Gale Force GrooveIII *4
26The GiftII **13
27CumberlandIII 1
28TemptressIII *2
 THE CATHEDRAL  
30UnknownII * 
31Ghost DanceV 6 *9
32Transcept GrooveIV 5 *6
33Transept RouteV 6 **8
34SepulchreV 6 **12
35SpellboundVI 7 **2
36Judas PriestV 5 *5
37TrinityVI 7 *1
38Cathedral ChimneyIV 4 **24
39Magic PillarIV 5 ***30
40Forsaken GullyII 26
 SINISTER BUTTRESS  
42Gully RouteII 7
43Central GullyI 17
 MAIN SECTOR  
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
46Central ButtressII **98
47Central Buttress(summer)M *6
48Fancy FreeVII 9 **1
49FootlooseVII 8 **1
50MantichoreVII 7 **2
51Mantichore (Summer)E1 5b 1
52Central Buttress DirectIV 6 *2
53Central Buttress Direct Alternative startV 6 3
54CentristV 5 **7
55SciolistIV 4 *2
56Shallow GullyIV 4 6
 SHADOW BUTTRESS A  
58Shadow RibV 5 *2
59ShadowlandsVI 7 ***6
60Shadow Buttress A, Original RouteIV 5 ***90
61Shadow Buttress A, Bell's RouteIII *4
62MoonshadowV 5 **14
63Giant's Head Chimney DirectV 5 1
64Giant's Head ChimneyIV 4 6
65Polyphemus GullyV 5 ***57
 SHADOW BUTTRESS B  
67Raeburn's GrooveVII 7 * 
68Bell's RouteV 6 **16
69Turf RouteIV 4 **4
70Shadow Buttress BV 6 **3
71PenumbraV 5 **3
72Douglas-Gibson GullyV 4 12
 EAGLE RIDGE AND PARALLEL BUTTRESS  
74Eagle Ridge (summer)S ***290
75Eagle RidgeVI 6 ***64
 Climb nameGradex
76Eagle ButtressIV 3 *2
77Eagle GrooveIV 5 *1
78Where Eagles DareVII 8 ***1
79Parallel Gully AIII ***70
80Parallel A Gully Right ForkIV 4 **12
81Parallel ButtressVI 6 12
82Parallel Gully BV 5 ***18
 TOUGH-BROWN FACE  
84Tough-Brown TraverseIV 3 *9
85Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)VD 1
86NymphVII ***1
87CryptVI 7  
88Trail Of TearsVII 7 ***1
89Diedre of the SorrowsVIII 8 *** 
90Crazy SorrowIX 10 ***1
91MortIX 9 ***1
92Rolling ThunderVII 7 *** 
93Tough GuyVII 7 ***5
94Tough Brown Ridge DirectV 6 **6
 RAEBURN'S GULLY  
96Backdoor RouteIV 4 8
97Raeburn's GullyII ***147
98The ClamV 6 **1
99Scarface WallVIII 8 ***1
100ScarfaceV 4 10
101Amphitheatre RouteIII 2
 BLACK SPOUT PINNACLE  
103Pinnacle Gully 1III 14
104Pinnacle Face (summer)VS 4b *2
105Pinnacle FaceVI 7 4
106Pinnacle Grooves (summer)HVS 5a **7
107The Link (summer)VS 4c ** 
108The Link FaceVII 7 *** 
109Link DirectVIII 7 ***2
110NihilistE1 5b *3
111Nihilist Extremist CombinationE2 5b **1
112The ExistentialistE6 6b ** 
113Route OneV 6 7
114Black Spout WallE3 5c ***8
115Winter Black Spout WallIX 9 *** 
116Steep Frowning GloriesE6 6b ** 
117Route 2S *2
118Route 2 (Winter)VI 6 **2
119The Ice OxIV 4 3
120Twin Chimneys RouteIV 5 1
121Pinnacle Gully 2II 7
122Black Spout Left Hand BranchI **71
 THE STACK  
124Crumbling CrannyII **28
125HeliopolisE3 5c **2
126UtramontaneE4 6a **2
127The StackV 6 **4
128The Black SpoutI 127
129The Black Spout, Right-Hand FinishIII 4 5
130The White SpoutIV 4 5
 WEST BUTTRESS  
132Black Spout Buttress (summer)D *46
133Black Spout ButtressIII 5 ***39
134Gargoyle ChimneyIV 4 5
135Prince Of DarknessVI 7 ***2
136ApophisE7 6b 1
137West GullyIV 4 **34
138Gelder ButtressIII 4 2
 COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE  
140Central Icefall, Coire Na SaobhaidheIII 5
 COIRE LOCH NAN EUN  
142Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 1
143Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)I **36
144Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)1 4
145BonanzaV 7 **1
146First LightIV 5 **2
147New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 4 1
148Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)II 5
149Starlight and Storm *V 5 *3
150Sunset Buttress *III 5 *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Classifieds
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