View larger mapGrid Ref NO 245857 (OS Landranger #44)

Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 29/Nov/2005

Lochnagar

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 900m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.8mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
19 kph

4.5mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
16 kph

1.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
15 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
16 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
16 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: mwis: Cairngorms & MonadhliathMet Office: East Highlands

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTHERN SECTOR  
 THE SENTINAL  
3Bells on the RocksI 3
4Sonshine CornerIII 5
5Fluffy FaceIV 4 *2
6Pea Soup ChimneyIV 4 1
7Red LightningII 3
8Jacob's SlabsIII 4 *10
9Starlight and StormV 5 *3
10Sentinel CouloirII 4
 SUNSET BUTTRESS  
12IffyIV 4 2
13Sunset GullyIII 7
14Quick Dash CrackIV 5 4
15Sunset ButtressIII 5 *1
16Sunset Buttress DirectIV 7 **5
17Pelican GrooveII/III 2
18Triangle ButtressII 6
19Red SpoutI *12
 PERSEVERANCE WALL  
21Perseverance GrooveII 4
22Forgotten RunnelII 1
23Never Say DieIII 4 *3
24Perseverance RibIII 6
25Most Likely You Go Your WayIII 2
26StarburstII 3
27Gale Force GrooveIII *4
28The GiftII **13
29CumberlandIII 1
30TemptressIII *2
 THE CATHEDRAL  
32UnknownII * 
33Ghost DanceV 6 *9
34Transcept GrooveIV 5 *6
35Transept RouteV 6 **9
36SepulchreV 6 **12
37SpellboundVI 7 **2
38Judas PriestV 5 *5
39TrinityVI 7 *1
40Cathedral ChimneyIV 4 **24
41Magic PillarIV 5 ***30
42Forsaken GullyII 26
 SINISTER BUTTRESS  
44Gully RouteII 7
45Central GullyI 17
 MAIN SECTOR  
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS  
48Central ButtressII **99
49Central Buttress(summer)M *7
50Fancy FreeVII 9 **1
51FootlooseVII 8 **1
52MantichoreVII 7 **2
53Mantichore (Summer)E1 5b 1
54Central Buttress DirectIV 6 *2
55Central Buttress Direct Alternative startV 6 3
56CentristV 5 **7
57SciolistIV 4 *2
58Shallow GullyIV 4 6
 SHADOW BUTTRESS A  
60Shadow RibV 5 *2
61ShadowlandsVI 7 ***6
62Shadow Buttress A, Original RouteIV 5 ***90
63Shadow Buttress A, Bell's RouteIII *4
64MoonshadowV 5 **14
65Giant's Head Chimney DirectV 5 1
66Giant's Head ChimneyIV 4 6
67Polyphemus GullyV 5 ***58
 SHADOW BUTTRESS B  
69Raeburn's GrooveVII 7 * 
70Bell's RouteV 6 **16
71Turf RouteIV 4 **4
72Shadow Buttress BV 6 **3
73PenumbraV 5 **3
74Douglas-Gibson GullyV 4 12
 EAGLE RIDGE AND PARALLEL BUTTRESS  
 Climb nameGradex
76Eagle Ridge (summer)S ***305
77Eagle RidgeVI 6 ***65
78Eagle ButtressIV 3 *2
79Eagle GrooveIV 5 *1
80Where Eagles DareVII 8 ***1
81Parallel Gully AIII ***70
82Parallel A Gully Right ForkIV 4 **12
83Parallel ButtressVI 6 12
84Parallel Gully BV 5 ***18
 TOUGH-BROWN FACE  
86Tough-Brown TraverseIV 3 *9
87Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)VD 1
88NymphVII ***1
89CryptVI 7  
90Trail Of TearsVII 7 ***1
91Diedre of the SorrowsVIII 8 *** 
92Crazy SorrowIX 10 ***1
93MortIX 9 ***1
94Rolling ThunderVII 7 *** 
95Tough GuyVII 7 ***5
96Tough Brown Ridge DirectV 6 **6
 RAEBURN'S GULLY  
98Backdoor RouteIV 4 8
99Raeburn's GullyII ***148
100The ClamV 6 **1
101Scarface WallVIII 8 ***1
102ScarfaceV 4 10
103Amphitheatre RouteIII 2
 BLACK SPOUT PINNACLE  
105Pinnacle Gully 1III 14
106Pinnacle Face (summer)VS 4b *2
107Pinnacle FaceVI 7 4
108Pinnacle Grooves (summer)HVS 5a **7
109The Link (summer)VS 4c ** 
110The Link FaceVII 7 *** 
111Link DirectVIII 7 ***2
112NihilistE1 5b *3
113Nihilist Extremist CombinationE2 5b **1
114The ExistentialistE6 6b ** 
115Route OneV 6 7
116Black Spout WallE3 5c ***8
117Winter Black Spout WallIX 9 *** 
118Steep Frowning GloriesE6 6b ** 
119Route 2S *2
120Route 2 (Winter)VI 6 **2
121The Ice OxIV 4 3
122Twin Chimneys RouteIV 5 1
123Pinnacle Gully 2II 7
124Black Spout Left Hand BranchI **71
 THE STACK  
126Crumbling CrannyII **28
127HeliopolisE3 5c **2
128UtramontaneE4 6a **2
129The StackV 6 **4
130The Black SpoutI 128
131The Black Spout, Right-Hand FinishIII 4 5
132The White SpoutIV 4 5
 WEST BUTTRESS  
134Black Spout Buttress (summer)D *46
135Black Spout ButtressIII 5 ***39
136Gargoyle ChimneyIV 4 5
137Prince Of DarknessVI 7 ***2
138ApophisE7 6b 1
139West GullyIV 4 **34
140Gelder ButtressIII 4 2
 COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE  
142Central Icefall, Coire Na SaobhaidheIII 5
 COIRE LOCH NAN EUN  
144Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 1
145Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)I **36
146Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)1 4
147BonanzaV 7 **1
148First LightIV 5 **2
149New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 4 1
150Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)II 5
Advertise here
Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.