Lochnagar

Climbs 132 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 900m a.s.l – Faces NE

Crag features
Provides some of the most spectacular, if not always the most reliable, winter climbing in the Cairngorms.

Notable winter routes : Eagle Ridge (VI,6), Polyphemus Gully (V,5).

Should not be ignored in summer some excellent routes - an early season ascent of Eagle Ridge (S) provides a thrilling route in near Alpine conditions.

Access notes
Restrictions during stalking: Sept-Jan. (but only affecting the longer northern approach from Balmoral: access normally unaffected year round from normal Glen Muick approach).

Check at Glen Muick Ranger station if in doubt.

Car park charge of £2 now levied by Royal Estate at Glen Muick car park.

Beware after heavy snow: most approaches cross avalanche run outs. Huge cornices can form, making late season exits problematic. Gullies, as everywhere else, should be avoided like the plague during/after heavy snow or a thaw.

Unique hazard is bumping into Prince Charles on the approach, who is known to invite climbers into his bothy for a 'wee dram'. Make sure you wipe your boots before entering.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - South (2008), Scottish Winter Climbs (2008), The Cairngorms (2007), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Cairngorms Vol. 2 (1998), Scottish Winter Climbs (1996)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SOUTHERN SECTOR 
 THE SENTINAL 
3Bells on the RocksI
4Sonshine CornerIII
5Fluffy FaceIV 4 *
6Pea Soup ChimneyIV 4
7Red LightningII
8Jacob's SlabsIII 4 *
9Starlight and StormV 5 *
10Sentinel CouloirII
 SUNSET BUTTRESS 
12IffyIV 4
13Sunset GullyIII
14Quick Dash CrackIV 5
15Sunset ButtressIII 5 *
16Sunset Buttress DirectIV 7 **
17Pelican GrooveII/III
18Triangle ButtressII
19Red SpoutI *
 PERSEVERANCE WALL 
21Perseverance GrooveII
22Forgotten RunnelII
23Never Say DieIII 4 *
24Perseverance RibIII
25Most Likely You Go Your WayIII
26StarburstII
27Gale Force GrooveIII *
28The GiftII **
29CumberlandIII
30TemptressIII *
 THE CATHEDRAL 
32UnknownII *
33Ghost DanceV 6 *
34Transcept GrooveIV 5 *
35Transept RouteV 6 **
36SepulchreV 6 **
37SpellboundVI 7 **
38Judas PriestV 5 *
39TrinityVI 7 *
40Cathedral ChimneyIV 4 **
41Magic PillarIV 5 ***
42Forsaken GullyII
 SINISTER BUTTRESS 
44Gully RouteII
45Central GullyI
 MAIN SECTOR 
 CENTRAL BUTTRESS 
48Central ButtressII **
49Central Buttress(summer)M *
50Fancy FreeVII 9 **
51FootlooseVII 8 **
52MantichoreVII 7 **
53Mantichore (Summer)E1 5b
54Central Buttress DirectIV 6 *
55Central Buttress Direct Alternative startV 6
56CentristV 5 **
57SciolistIV 4 *
58Shallow GullyIV 4
 SHADOW BUTTRESS A 
60Shadow RibV 5 *
61ShadowlandsVI 7 ***
62Shadow Buttress A, Original RouteIV 5 ***
63Shadow Buttress A, Bell's RouteIII *
64MoonshadowV 5 **
65Giant's Head Chimney DirectV 5
66Giant's Head ChimneyIV 4
67Polyphemus GullyV 5 ***
 SHADOW BUTTRESS B 
69Raeburn's GrooveVII 7 *
70Bell's RouteV 6 **
71Turf RouteIV 4 **
72Shadow Buttress BV 6 **
73PenumbraV 5 **
74Douglas-Gibson GullyV 4
 EAGLE RIDGE AND PARALLEL BUTTRESS 
76Eagle Ridge (summer)S ***
77Eagle RidgeVI 6 ***
78Eagle ButtressIV 3 *
79Eagle GrooveIV 5 *
80Where Eagles DareVII 8 ***
81Parallel Gully AIII ***
82Parallel A Gully Right ForkIV 4 **
83Parallel ButtressVI 6
84Parallel Gully BV 5 ***
 TOUGH-BROWN FACE 
86Tough-Brown TraverseIV 3 *
87Tough-Brown Traverse (summer)VD
88NymphVII ***
89CryptVI 7
90Trail Of TearsVII 7 ***
91Diedre of the SorrowsVIII 8 ***
92Crazy SorrowIX 10 ***
93MortIX 9 ***
94Rolling ThunderVII 7 ***
95Tough GuyVII 7 ***
96Tough Brown Ridge DirectV 6 **
 RAEBURN'S GULLY 
98Backdoor RouteIV 4
99Raeburn's GullyII ***
100The ClamV 6 **
101Scarface WallVIII 8 ***
102ScarfaceV 4
103Amphitheatre RouteIII
 BLACK SPOUT PINNACLE 
105Pinnacle Gully 1III
106Pinnacle Face (summer)VS 4b *
107Pinnacle FaceVI 7
108Pinnacle Grooves (summer)HVS 5a **
109The Link (summer)VS 4c **
110The Link FaceVII 7 ***
111Link DirectVIII 7 ***
112NihilistE1 5b *
113Nihilist Extremist CombinationE2 5b **
114The ExistentialistE6 6b **
115Route OneV 6
116Black Spout WallE3 5c ***
117Winter Black Spout WallIX 9 ***
118Steep Frowning GloriesE6 6b **
119Route 2S *
120Route 2 (Winter)VI 6 **
121The Ice OxIV 4
122Twin Chimneys RouteIV 5
123Pinnacle Gully 2II
124Black Spout Left Hand BranchI **
 THE STACK 
126Crumbling CrannyII **
127HeliopolisE3 5c **
128UtramontaneE4 6a **
129The StackV 6 **
130The Black SpoutI
131The Black Spout, Right-Hand FinishIII 4
132The White SpoutIV 4
 WEST BUTTRESS 
134Black Spout Buttress (summer)D *
135Black Spout ButtressIII 5 ***
136Gargoyle ChimneyIV 4
137Prince Of DarknessVI 7 ***
138ApophisE7 6b
139West GullyIV 4 **
140Gelder ButtressIII 4
 COIRE NA SAOBHAIDHE 
142Central Icefall, Coire Na SaobhaidheIII
 COIRE LOCH NAN EUN 
144Plug Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III
145Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun)I **
146Stuic Buttress (Coire an loch nan Eun) (Summer)1
147BonanzaV 7 **
148First LightIV 5 **
149New Boot Groove (Coire an loch nan Eun)III 4
150Stegosaurus Rib (Coire an loch nan Eun)II
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