Cheddar Gorge South

Climbs 563 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features

Dirty, sometimes vegetated limestone of variable quality. Mainly middle grade climbs, predominately single pitch to 30 metres.

Approach notes

NO CLIMBING is allowed on the South (north-facing) side of the gorge during times of public and school holidays. Details of all restrictions can be viewed on the BMC RAD pages.

2014 Cheddar Gorge Access Calendar

Civil liability insurance (e.g. BMC/MCoS/CC membership) is mandatory and proof of this must be carried. Spot checks are carried out regularly by the warden.

 


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Cheddar Gorge Climbs (2009), Cheddar Gorge (2006), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Cheddar Gorge project supplement

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SPIDER HOLE  
2bombay duckVS 4b 7
3crashed mattVS 5a 6
4Terminate a Tourist TodayE1 5a 3
5Will It? Won't It?HVS 4c 2
6Matthus MatthusE3 5c 1
7Magnus PykeE1 5b 1
8Think (Cheddar) PinkHVS 5a 1
9Lager SpikerE2 6a/b 1
10Larger BikerE4 6a 1
11Rough RoaderE1 5a 2
12Rough SleeperE1 5b 3
13Camp Fire's BurningVD 7
14Phantom BoltsE2 6b 1
 THE FAR BAY  
16Elliot's FagE3 6a *3
17Nice to See You Two!HVS 5a 2
18All the Juicy BitsE3 5c 2
19VanityE1 5a/b *5
20Mirror, MirrorE3 5c  
21Eaten AliveE2 5c *1
22Terrible TicksE2 5b  
23All Hallows EvenS * 
 PIGS' HOLE  
25Bolt Wars7b 3
26Progressive RockE4 6b  
27Pump up the Volume7b 9
28Cream Tease7b *50
29Newton's WalE3 5c *2
30ChicHVS 5a *14
31SlowundressE4 6a 1
32SorceressE6 6b ***1
33Follow the Slick Red Road (to Gdansk)7c *76
34Straw Dogs8a+ 7
35Licking Tarmac7c+ *7
36Woody's into Licking Tarmac8b ** 
37Thank Fist For That8a+ *1
38Jazz Defector7c+ *3
39Sidewinder6c 34
40One for the Money6a+ *92
41Loser's Choice6b **100
42Slalom6c *37
43Erotica Pocketta6c **59
44Trail of the Snail6b+ *15
45Grand NationalE4 6a *1
46Woody's TraverseV7 18
47heartbleedE4 6b 1
 THE HOLDING BAY  
49Don't Let Me DownE6 6b *1
50'Hold, Hold, Hold!'7b+ *1
51Hold Me TightE5 6b  
52Motherless ChildVS 5a * 
53Life's Too Short for Plucking MushroomsE3 5b  
54Victim of CircumstanceVS 4c *1
55Teenage Riot7a+ 2
56ArachnophiliaHVS 5a  
 ROADSIDE  
58In the MoodE4 6a  
59Who's Sorry Now?E2 5a/b  
60Ice Cube in a Turkish BathE3 5c  
61E3 5cE3 5c  
62Peuterey Ridge InferieurE5 5c *1
63MerapiE5 6b 1
 PEPYS ROCK  
65Peep ShowE5 6b  
66Fine Cut GlassE3 5c  
67Cut GlassE3 5c *1
68Harry Patch Memorial ClimbE3 5c  
69Igor7a+ *6
70Told You My Girl's Got Muscles7b 5
 QUAKING WALL  
72Million Dollar legsHVS 5a/b  
73NutCrockerE3 6b  
74Late EntryE3 5c/6a * 
75Late Entry Direct StartE3 6b  
76Clair's ComplexityE3 5c/6a ** 
77Not the Original StartE4 6b  
78Fun PoliceE4 6a * 
79AshmanE2 5c *1
80Bloody TouristsE3 5c **1
81Safe and Legal to Do SoE4 5c * 
82The DeceiverE2 5b * 
83Red Light Spells DangerE2 5c 2
84Who Do You Want to Be on Your Tombstone?E2 5b *2
 RESERVOIR WALLS  
86ShrapnelE2 5b 2
87Short FuseE3 2
88Ready Steady GoE1 2
89Heavy Metal Eurotrash7a+ 2
90The Harder They Come7c *4
91The Harder They Fall7b+ **13
92Big Softy7b *10
93Steroid Power7a+  
94New Year GroovesVS 4c 9
95ConsolationE1 5b **32
96Eden CrackM 53
97TemptationHS 4b 42
98Milky WheyE2 6a 1
99Bolt Action7b  
100Small Is BigE6 6a/b *2
101One Foot in the GraveE5 6a  
102Sidekick7a *69
103Dig for VictoryHVS 5a *2
104Good with the GirlsE2 6a 2
105PlaqueE4 6a 3
106ContortionHS 4b 7
107MarsVS 4c 3
108smoothVS 4c 5
109Hung Jury6a *43
 SHOOT GULLY WALLS  
111Thisbe ChimneyVD 4
112Thisbe CrackS 4a 5
113Thisbe SlabS 4a 12
114Narrow ButtressS 9
115Pyramus ArÍteVS 4b 4
116SugarloafD 8
117PyramusM 10
118Narrow CrackS 6
 GINSBERG WALL  
120Eight-Line PoemHVS 5a  
121Mooney's Route7a *27
122Mir7a 17
12320017a 8
124Canary in a CoalmineE2 5b  
125BlitzE3 6a  
126Donner und Blitzen7b *30
127Ripe Old age7b **56
128Heaven-SentE6 6b 2
129Heaven-Sent DirectE7 6b ***8
130Hell-Bent7c *18
131Just Plain Bent7c 4
132Draggin' Along7c+ 62
133Hell Bent For Drag7c+ **3
134Barbarian7b+ **84
135Gran Torino7b 9
136Get That Man7a+ ***218
137GinsbergE5 6b *6
138GinsengE5 6c  
139Beatnik Tea PartyE4 6a * 
140Rat, Tat, TatE5 6b  
141EngineersE2 5b 2
142Putnam's FollyHVS 5b  
143Condensation StreetE3 5c  
144Quarante Pourcent Matiere GrasseE3 6a  
145The CoreE2 5b  
146Grueome GrooveE2 5b  
147April FoolsS 4a 2
148Prince AndrewE3 5b  
 YEW TREE WALL  
150William in ChileE2 5c *14
151GobbledegookE1 5b *10
152Another Dick on the WallE5 6b 1
153PilfererE2 5c *8
154Turkey TrotE4 6a **8
155Croaking in Woking7a *79
156The Knack7a *73
157Tell It Like It Is7b *26
158A Simple Tale7a+ *30
159Plead Guilty7a+ *38
160Mr X6b 12
161Ambiguously Straightforward6b 182
162Mystery RouteHVS 5a 4
163Yew Tree GrooveVS 4c 12
164No Bolts Please, We're British!S 4a 3
165Mea CulpaE2 5b  
166ExodusHVS 5a  
167GenesisHVS 5a 1
168Needs of the ManyE2 5c  
169Shock PhilosophyE5 6a  
170The BurnerHVS 5b  
171Blurred VisionHVS 5a  
172FloatersE4 5c  
173Creeping WeaknessE3 5c  
174Show Some RestraintE1 5a/b  
 LONG WALL  
176Any Moment NowE2 5c 4
177Crimp-master C Featuring Hips JHE5 6b/c 1
178TuskE3 6a 2
179The IdesE4 6a *3
180BrusqueE5 6a/b **2
181Ice CoolE1 5b *11
182The Penultimate TearE4 6a  
183Black Magic WomanE1 5b 2
184DevadipE3 6a  
185White LadyE2 5c *8
186Lay, Lady, Lay AwayE5 6b  
187Sloe GinHS 4a **41
188HeirloomE3 6a 4
189Live DustS 5
190Phantom GardnerE1 5b *3
191EcocriticalE5 6a *2
192The Demon TrundlerHVS 4c **12
193Demonic AreteE1 5a/b **16
194Candy 'O'E3 5c *2
195Open TopE4 5c  
196SightsearsE6 6b *2
197Pure JoyE4 6a * 
198Big DealVS 4c **25
199Kaput Four FingersE6 6b *2
200Misty MorningE2 5c *6
201Desert GorgeE5 6a *1
202TremorgansE2 5c 4
 WARLORD WALL  
204WarlordE4 6a/b ***7
205Adventure Before Sport7a *7
206Doc Martin's7c ***4
207Every Step of the WayE6 6b *** 
208BrainbiterE2 5b ***19
209Hall of Fame7b+ **1
210MedusaE3 6a **2
211Planet PerfectoE5 6a 1
212Reel Empty FeelingE4 6a 1
213MegalomaniaE1 5b **2
214Seventy Foot ChimneyVS 4b 1
215Stone Cold Fever6b+ ***72
216It's Going to be Ugly6a+ 23
217East Wind BluesE2 5c *2
218Bamboleo6c *3
219Abdominal Cave-in7a+ 2
220Heaven And Earth ShowE3 5c ***11
221BabylonE4 6a **1
222Tombstonef7C ***9
223SullenbergerE1 5c ***28
224Castles Made of Sand6c ***59
225The Witching Hours6c 7
226Air Conditioning as Standard7a **21
227Rear EntryE2 5b **13
228Bottom Feeder7a+ *14
229Super CreepsE2 5c **10
230Zoot Horn Rollo7a+ *12
231Scary MonstersE1 5b *13
232Goats R Us6b+ *54
233winter chimneyHS 4b  
234Explorer Cath7a+ *10
235Talk To AngelsE3 5c **3
236Postcard from Titan7b **11
237In Violet6c *10
 SPACEHUNTER WALL  
239Terrace GullyS 4a  
240The Prime Slime ClubE1 5b  
241Little WingE4 6b  
242Make No MistakeE4 6a  
243Demented WoodpeckerE5 6a  
244Rum Doodling7a+ 5
245Captain Morgan7b *7
246Beverly's Wall6b+ **53
247SpacehunterE6 6b *** 
248Return of the Gunfighter7c ***23
249Star Spangled Banner7b+ ***32
250Starscape7b+ ***24
251SkyScrape7b+ ***17
252Fornicator Simulator8a **15
253Bush Administration6c+ 25
254Forbidden ZonesE5 6a **2
255The Missionary6b 24
256Hyperspace Trek and Travel7c+ **1
257ElidorE2 5b  
258BonanzaE5 6a  
259GeronimoS 1
260No ReservationsE3 5c  
261SiouxieE5 6c  
262Stone WarriorE5 6a  
263StonedE6 6b  
264DoomwatchE1 5b 1
265DeathwatchE3 5c  
266CrimewatchE3 5c  
267Ho, Ho, Ho7a **15
268No!, No, No!6c *8
269Cold War7b+ **2
270Fountain of ArethusaE6 6b ** 
271Red BerettaE5 6b  
272KephaloniaE5 6a ***6
273Cruising the MedE5 6a  
274The Scented IsleE5 6a ** 
275Thermopylae7b **20
276Rape of the Sabine Women7a+ *10
277Screw ArchimedesE4 6b  
278MadrugadaE4 6a  
279La Del GiocondaE2 6a  
280The Golden Road to SamarkandE3 6b  
281Potwalloper's WallE4 6a  
282SpeltershakeE5 6b  
283Rufus RoughcutE2 5b  
284The Russians Are BackE3 6a **2
285Breakfast at Timothy'sE4 6a **1
286Galactica8b 2
 HORSESHOE BEND BUTTRESS  
288Round the Bend7a 66
289Tied in Knots6c **127
290Zanzibar6c *110
291DodoE1 5b  
292The PioneersE5 6b  
293Long Shot Kick-E-BucketE4 6a  
294spotlightE1 5c  
295Nose ClimbE1 5b 3
296By A NoseVS 5a 1
297Partners in Crime6c+ *69
298Whippersnappers7a+ *81
299Creme de la Phlegm6c *134
300British Summer Time6a+ **315
301I've Started6c+ 59
30212000 Miles6a+ *224
303Smooth Operator6a **377
304Speaking to a Dead Man6b *281
305Tourist Distraction5a 381
306Reunion at Nightfall5a 218
307One Horse Town5c 18
308Her Indoors5c 97
309Just For Fun6b+ 45
310It Ain't Necessary6c 48
311PlaceboVS 4c 3
312Viper CrackVS 5a *8
 SUNSET BUTTRESS  
314The Common StartXS  
315Small Men, Long Shorts6a 38
316Beware Men with Beards6b+ *39
317Space Tourist6b+ **145
318IrradiationE5 6a  
319AfterglowE4 6a  
320Road to ParadiseE5 6b  
321Paradise RegainedE5 6b  
322Strangler in ParadiseE5 6b  
323The VisionaryE3 a0  
324For Ever and Ever7b+ **3
325Bird of Paradise7b+ ***17
326Paradise Lost7b ***59
327Bristol's Got Talent8c ** 
328Touching the Void7b+ 3
329The Midnight Run7b+ **2
330Gates of Eden7c ***5
331The Other Side of Paradise7c ***4
332Edge of Eternity7c ***12
333UtopiaHVS 4c **47
334The Horse Knows the WayE2 5b 1
335The Sunset Score7a+ **17
336Sunsations7a+ *10
337NirvanaE2 5b *1
338The Man That Never WasE5 6a/b  
339The Underground Influence7b **3
340Deja RueE1 5a  
341The PerishersE4 6a  
342Northern LightsE2 5b  
 BURMESE WALL  
344Back in Black6b *103
345Instigate Emergency Closure6b+ *57
346My Sweet Gord7b *11
347Mendipian Way7a+ **92
348Super-Styling6a 77
349Trusty Rusty6a+ *50
350Aarbi's Virgin Start6b+ *76
351The Darkness Beckons7a+ **39
352Pirates of Lamb Leer7a *74
353Mercurian Sump Dweller7b+ **31
354Burma RoadE2 5c *13
355Aung San Sun Kyi7b+ **3
356Brazilia '877a+ ***2
357Brazilia7b **14
358AvatarE3 5c/6a **2
359MalaiseE3 5c/6a *1
360The ProwE5 6a/b **1
 GREAT ROCK  
362Princess6c 5
363Maybe Tomorrow7a+ 4
364Chavs Can Stall At Any Time7a *4
365Big is Beautiful6b 5
366Sister Morphine7a+ 4
367It Won't Take Long6b+ 3
368Gimme Shelter6a 10
369Little England4a 11
370Fax Your Face from the Afterlife7b+ *8
371Lost Cause7a+ *25
372Pipped at the Post7b **14
373Mourning GloryVS 11
374What a BringdownE2 5b  
375Black SpitfireE5 6b  
376HurricaneE6 6b  
377Wall of BansE2  
378The Hidden TowersHVS 5a  
379Hidden BeautyE4 6a  
380Doomsday MachineE5 6b  
 PRIEST ROCK  
382PortalS 4a 2
 CLIFF TOP TIER  
384After WorkVD 1
385Inverted-VS 2
386Right-On-SightVS 4c 1
 THE AMPHITHEATRE  
388The EmpireE5 6a ***3
389CaesarE4 6a ***4
390BackstabbersE6 6b **2
391Have Epic, Write Book, Make FilmE6 6b * 
392Caesar Direct7b+ **4
393That Thing8a * 
394Jupiter Stone8a *** 
395B'n'BE6 6b *2
396M'n'ME5 6b * 
397Fall of the EmpireE4 6a  
 HIGH ROCK  
399Creationist Whack Job6c *4
400Who's Nailin' Pailin?6c *3
401Play the White ManE4 6a * 
402No Slings Attached7b *4
403Big FootE5 6b * 
404Bad DogE5 6a ** 
405Desert RatE5 6a/b **1
406Miss MystiqueE6 6b **1
407Wishing WallE6 6b ***2
408Shangri-La7b+ **60
409The Wrecking Crew7c+ **4
410The Mettle Detector7c+ **18
411Still Waters Run Deep7b ***134
412Stone the CrowsE3 5c  
413CrowE3 5c/6a ***31
414Sherryland7a+ 65
415HallucinationsE5 6b  
416West RouteE6 6a 1
417LionheartE5 6b  
418SpiritualizeE7 6b 1
419RamesesE4 6a  
420OsirisE3 6a 4
421Coronation StreetE1 5b ***295
422Project XE5 6a  
423SceptreVS 4c 37
424Sceptre DirectHVS 5a 2
425Danger BirdE3 5b  
426Kind of HushE3 6a  
427The In SpireE5 6b  
428Take the Bull By the HornsE4 6a  
429The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **65
430Silent NightE4 6a *11
431Crown of CreationE2 5c 1
432Shakin' Like a Leaf7a ***257
433The Fall6c+ *67
434Dada7a *67
435RoadshowE2 5c 2
436Shem ShakHVS 5a 1
437Plastic BulletsE2 5c 1
438No MnemonicsE5 6a  
439Free EnterpriseE4 5c  
440The Flying RickshawsE1 5c *3
441Hot LantaE2 5b 10
442Eat a PeachHVS 5a *10
443MorituriE1 5b 8
444RPs Out, Matt Ward's In!E5 6a  
445ChossHS 4a  
446JillS 4a 70
447JackVS 4c 27
448Dig This, PeopleE4 6a  
449Sense of DoubtE2 5c 1
450Fool's OvertureE1 5c  
451FinefingerE1 5b 7
452Shaved FishE1 5b 4
453Right CrackHVS 5a 2
454Rock RobbersVD 4
455Geronimosports4c 18
456Dickie's MintD 8
457CragAttaKHS 4a *4
458High Rock GirdleE1 5a 2
459Soopa DoopaE3 6a  
460The BlighterE5 6b  
461East SlabD 6
462Easy WayD 12
463Central RouteS 4a 20
464The SlabS 4a 28
465Mike's Party PieceVS 5a 12
466West Wall ClimbVS 5a 7
467Windy CrackS 4a 17
468Pinnacle RouteD 17
469Champagne PolkaE2 5b 2
470Acceleration WaltzE2 5c *4
471The Fearless FourE5 6a 3
472Positively BunkyE1 5b  
473Just Like ArtE3 6a  
474Too Much Cream; Not Enough Jam5c 13
475Wind Rock CornerHS 4a *11
 ACID ROCK  
477Yup, Yup and Away7b+ *9
478Farewell to the Working Classes7a+ **33
479Cleared for Take OffE1 5b  
480Just Another SundayE2 5c  
481Do or Dole7c 5
482The ClingonE4 6a *2
483A Pinch of ThoughtE2 5c  
484The Best Thins in Life Aren't ThingsE2 5c  
485True Colours7b **6
486Best of ThingsE4 6b  
487AhimsaE3 5c ***52
488Stripped for ActionHVS 5b  
489Dream CruiseE3 5c **12
490ThorHVS 5b **45
491Does Rock Dream?VD  
492AscinaE3 5c *11
493Lest We ForgetE2 6a  
494BaselineE5 6a * 
495Never Forget a FaceE2 6a  
496BackhanderE5 6a * 
497Knight's ClimbD 92
498Rook's ClimbVS 4b 2
 FREAKY WALL  
500Manic Depression7a+ *38
501Scarred Mind7c 13
502SchizoidE5 6a ***6
503Manchmals7b+ *44
504Speedfreak7a+ **120
505Bored of Pies7c 33
506Sheer Lunacy7b *42
507Yes Men6a+ 114
508Nonplus One7b 21
509Shock of the New7b+ **91
510On Radio7b+ *22
511Radio Numbness7a+ **1
512The Numb Ones6b+ **157
513The Babbler7a+ 19
514Tarmac Terminator7a 29
515Big Mac Regurgitator7b *44
516Little GemE4 6a **13
517Erotica Narcotica7c * 
 THE TOWER  
519Quicksnake6b 9
520Ice and Easy6a *31
521Cooler Thinking6a 35
522Sun Shine Underground5a 38
523Shadows In The Mist6b+ *14
 SUNNYSIDE TERRACE  
525Clean Hand ManE5 6a  
526State of MindE5 6b 2
527Broken ArrowHVS 5a  
528Bent SpearHVS 5a  
529Wild ThymeE1 5a  
530Branchwalker6b+ *89
531Fuzzy LogicE2 5b  
532Neural Network6b 65
533Prodigal Sun6c *40
534Sunnyside Up7a **123
535Fool's Bolt7b 10
536Opt Out6b ***138
537Say (Cheddar) Cheese6c+ 28
538Chalk and Cheese7a+ *29
539Parallel Lines6c **13
540Sport for All6b+ *27
541Sun Blind6c 6
542Green ManS 8
543Abort, Retry, Ignore7a+ 23
544The China Shop6c *29
545Dulled SwordHVS 5b  
546Poached EggsE2 6b  
547Always on My Mind6a *75
548Hang This - Sucker!7a 9
549Over Easy6b+ 27
550Microscopic6c 14
551Arson - A Burning Desire6b+ *69
552Gardeners' World6c 42
553Mono Talk7a+ 30
554Wiggly Park4a *66
555BooVS **20
 BOY RACERS' WALL  
557Va-Va-VoomE2 5b *4
558Yippee-ki-YayE5 6a *2
559Black NightS 4a *14
560Curious HoleE1 5b 1
561BeamingHS 4a 2
562Goat to NaxosE1 5a 2
563Soay SauceE3 6b 1
564GoatmealE4 6b 1
565Nanny StateE5 6b 1
566Have Your Goat and Eat itE4 6b *1
567In a RutE5 6a 1
568On a Wild Goat ChaseHS 4a *4
569Stench of GoatE1 5c 2
570Extreme Athletes FootE5 6b 1
571Extreme AphidE4 5c 1
572Everyone's a LegendE5 6a 1
573Goat in BootsVD 4
574Escape GoatE2 6a 1
575Counting Goats-for NigelS 4a 6
576Goat-Finder GeneralHVS 5b 2
577Goat on CokeE1 5b 2
578Void runner8a **2
579Ka7b+ 1
580Trotter,S **3
581Rocking Horse,S 2
582Wall End.S 1
583Patitucci Bass7a+ **2
584A New SiberiaE4 6a ***2
585Nice CrackE3 6a **2
586ShadowlandsE4 6a **1
587MorganaVS 4b 1
588Celebrity Cheddar-HandsE3 5c *1
589I'm a Non-entity: Get Me out of HereE4 6a *1
590For Ever and Ever - extended version7b+ **1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Castles Made of Sand is no longer the Longest Sport Route in the UK, The Rock Bottom Line in Twll Mawr, Dinorwic Slate Quarries is currently the longest fully bolted Sport route in the UK. Rhinestone Cowboy on the Little Orme may also have a claim for the longest sport / trad / hybrid route in the UK.
ian Ll-J - 07/Oct/11
http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&cp=sjdvw3gs353r&style=o&lvl=1&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=27925530&encType=1 A really useful tool!
beardy mike - 02/Nov/10
Utopia is also clean. Top out is still an exciting ivy cornice though, wouldn't be right to remove all the ivy. Fantastic climb, second pitch is awesome just climb around the blocks at the bottom of the chimney. There are bolt belays on sport routes that you can use if you want. A good first cheddar adventure! Enjoy
SC - 14/Dec/07
Rooks climb VS is now clean. Excellent three pitch route, fantastic exposure on the first pitch. Second pitch looks harder than it is, the flared chimney is hilariously good fun. The ledge is sitll covered in ivy but you can traverse across the bottom of the face on big jugs. Finish on the excellent top pitch of Knights climb. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
Utopia, the classic VS has had a recent clean. Not perfect but a bit of traffic will soon have it sorted. Still a big adventure, spectacuar positions & tricky climbing. First pitch is probably 5a. There is a bolt belay (from another route) about 5 meters above and left of the original belay, nice to be able to choose. Bolt belay at the top of the first chimney. Top of the second chimney is very exciting, hands full of ivy! Original top pitch looked beyond help so we didn't bother. Walk off left to the summit of sunset buttress & take in the best view in somerset. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
The 'well trodden path/scramble' noted in the guide book was actually pretty dangerous, steep with loose rock, mud and general unpleasantness. There is an old rope in place for assistance, and it *seems* trustworthy at time of writing. However, I'd warn off going for the higher crags in the gully. We wasted an hour scrambling up, gave up, came down and went climbing by the roadside. Much more sensible.
tomrowan - 16/Oct/06