Cheddar Gorge South

Climbs 561 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
Dirty, sometimes vegetated limestone of variable quality. Mainly middle grade climbs, predominately single pitch to 30 metres.

Access notes

NO CLIMBING is allowed on the South (north-facing) side of the gorge during times of public and school holidays. Details of all restrictions can be viewed on the BMC RAD pages.

2014 Cheddar Gorge Access Calendar

Civil liability insurance (e.g. BMC/MCoS/CC membership) is mandatory and proof of this must be carried. Spot checks are carried out regularly by the warden.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Cheddar Gorge (2006), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Cheddar Gorge project supplement

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2bombay duckVS 4b 6
3crashed mattVS 5a 5
4Terminate a Tourist TodayE1 5a 3
5Will It? Won't It?HVS 4c 2
6Matthus MatthusE3 5c 1
7Magnus PykeE1 5b 1
8Think (Cheddar) PinkHVS 5a 1
9Lager SpikerE2 6a/b 1
10Larger BikerE4 6a 1
11Rough RoaderE1 5a 2
12Rough SleeperE1 5b 3
13Camp Fire's BurningVD 7
14Phantom BoltsE2 6b 1
16Elliot's FagE3 6a *3
17Nice to See You Two!HVS 5a 2
18All the Juicy BitsE3 5c 2
19VanityE1 5a/b *5
20Mirror, MirrorE3 5c  
21Eaten AliveE2 5c *1
22Terrible TicksE2 5b  
23All Hallows EvenS * 
25Bolt Wars7b 3
26Progressive RockE4 6b  
27Pump up the Volume7b 9
28Cream Tease7b *45
29Newton's WalE3 5c *2
30ChicHVS 5a *14
31SlowundressE4 6a 1
32SorceressE6 6b ***1
33Follow the Slick Red Road (to Gdansk)7c *66
34Straw Dogs8a+ 3
35Licking Tarmac7c+ *5
36Woody's into Licking Tarmac8b ** 
37Jazz Defector7c+ *2
38Sidewinder6c 30
39One for the Money6a+ *86
40Loser's Choice6b **92
41Slalom6c *33
42Erotica Pocketta6c **53
43Trail of the Snail6b+ *13
44Grand NationalE4 6a *1
45Woody's TraverseV7 14
46heartbleedE4 6b 1
48Don't Let Me DownE6 6b *1
49'Hold, Hold, Hold!'7b+ *1
50Hold Me TightE5 6b  
51Motherless ChildVS 5a * 
52Life's Too Short for Plucking MushroomsE3 5b  
53Victim of CircumstanceVS 4c *1
54Teenage Riot7a+ 2
55ArachnophiliaHVS 5a  
57In the MoodE4 6a  
58Who's Sorry Now?E2 5a/b  
59Ice Cube in a Turkish BathE3 5c  
60E3 5cE3 5c  
61Peuterey Ridge InferieurE5 5c *1
62MerapiE5 6b 1
64Peep ShowE5 6b  
65Fine Cut GlassE3 5c  
66Cut GlassE3 5c *1
67Harry Patch Memorial ClimbE3 5c  
68Igor7a+ *6
69Told You My Girl's Got Muscles7b 3
71Million Dollar legsHVS 5a/b  
72NutCrockerE3 6b  
73Late EntryE3 5c/6a * 
74Late Entry Direct StartE3 6b  
75Clair's ComplexityE3 5c/6a ** 
76Not the Original StartE4 6b  
77Fun PoliceE4 6a * 
78AshmanE2 5c *1
79Bloody TouristsE3 5c **1
80Safe and Legal to Do SoE4 5c * 
81The DeceiverE2 5b * 
82Red Light Spells DangerE2 5c 2
83Who Do You Want to Be on Your Tombstone?E2 5b *2
85ShrapnelE2 5b 2
86Short FuseE3 2
87Ready Steady GoE1 2
88Heavy Metal Eurotrash7a+ 2
89The Harder They Come7c *4
90The Harder They Fall7b+ **12
91Big Softy7b *8
92Steroid Power7a+  
93New Year GroovesVS 4c 9
94ConsolationE1 5b **32
95Eden CrackM 52
96TemptationHS 4b 41
97Milky WheyE2 6a 1
98Bolt Action7b  
99Small Is BigE6 6a/b *2
100One Foot in the GraveE5 6a  
101Sidekick7a *62
102Dig for VictoryHVS 5a *2
103Good with the GirlsE2 6a 2
104PlaqueE4 6a 3
105ContortionHS 4b 7
106MarsVS 4c 3
107smoothVS 4c 5
108Hung Jury6a *39
110Thisbe ChimneyVD 4
111Thisbe CrackS 4a 5
112Thisbe SlabS 4a 12
113Narrow ButtressS 9
114Pyramus ArêteVS 4b 4
115SugarloafD 8
116PyramusM 10
117Narrow CrackS 6
119Eight-Line PoemHVS 5a  
120Mooney's Route7a *24
121Mir7a 17
12220017a 8
123Canary in a CoalmineE2 5b  
124BlitzE3 6a  
125Donner und Blitzen7b *28
126Ripe Old age7b **50
127Heaven-SentE6 6b 2
128Heaven-Sent DirectE7 6b ***7
129Hell-Bent7c *17
130Just Plain Bent7c 3
131Draggin' Along7c+ 56
132Hell Bent For Drag7c+ **2
133Barbarian7b+ **71
134Gran Torino7b 8
135Get That Man7a+ ***200
136GinsbergE5 6b *6
137GinsengE5 6c  
138Beatnik Tea PartyE4 6a * 
139Rat, Tat, TatE5 6b  
140EngineersE2 5b 2
141Putnam's FollyHVS 5b  
142Condensation StreetE3 5c  
143Quarante Pourcent Matiere GrasseE3 6a  
144The CoreE2 5b  
145Grueome GrooveE2 5b  
146April FoolsS 4a 2
147Prince AndrewE3 5b  
149William in ChileE2 5c *14
150GobbledegookE1 5b *10
151Another Dick on the WallE5 6b 1
152PilfererE2 5c *8
153Turkey TrotE4 6a **7
154Croaking in Woking7a *74
155The Knack7a *68
156Tell It Like It Is7b *23
157A Simple Tale7a+ *29
158Plead Guilty7a+ *37
159Mr X6b 11
160Ambiguously Straightforward6b 173
161Mystery RouteHVS 5a 3
162Yew Tree GrooveVS 4c 11
163No Bolts Please, We're British!S 4a 3
164Mea CulpaE2 5b  
165ExodusHVS 5a  
166GenesisHVS 5a 1
167Needs of the ManyE2 5c  
168Shock PhilosophyE5 6a  
169The BurnerHVS 5b  
170Blurred VisionHVS 5a  
171FloatersE4 5c  
172Creeping WeaknessE3 5c  
173Show Some RestraintE1 5a/b  
175Any Moment NowE2 5c 4
176Crimp-master C Featuring Hips JHE5 6b/c 1
177TuskE3 6a 2
178The IdesE4 6a *3
179BrusqueE5 6a/b **2
180Ice CoolE1 5b *11
181The Penultimate TearE4 6a  
182Black Magic WomanE1 5b 2
183DevadipE3 6a  
184White LadyE2 5c *8
185Lay, Lady, Lay AwayE5 6b  
186Sloe GinHS 4a **40
187HeirloomE3 6a 4
188Live DustS 5
189Phantom GardnerE1 5b *3
190EcocriticalE5 6a *2
191The Demon TrundlerHVS 4c **12
192Demonic AreteE1 5a/b **15
193Candy 'O'E3 5c *2
194Open TopE4 5c  
195SightsearsE6 6b *2
196Pure JoyE4 6a * 
197Big DealVS 4c **25
198Kaput Four FingersE6 6b *2
199Misty MorningE2 5c *6
200Desert GorgeE5 6a *1
201TremorgansE2 5c 4
203WarlordE4 6a/b ***6
204Adventure Before Sport7a *7
205Doc Martin's7c ***4
206Every Step of the WayE6 6b *** 
207BrainbiterE2 5b ***19
208Hall of Fame7b+ **1
209MedusaE3 6a **2
210Planet PerfectoE5 6a 1
211Reel Empty FeelingE4 6a 1
212MegalomaniaE1 5b **2
213Seventy Foot ChimneyVS 4b 1
214Stone Cold Fever6b+ ***72
215It's Going to be Ugly6a+ 22
216East Wind BluesE2 5c *2
217Bamboleo6c *3
218Abdominal Cave-in7a+ 2
219Heaven And Earth ShowE3 5c ***11
220BabylonE4 6a **1
221Tombstonef7C ***9
222SullenbergerE1 5c ***28
223Castles Made of Sand6c ***59
224The Witching Hours6c 7
225Air Conditioning as Standard7a **19
226Rear EntryE2 5b **12
227Bottom Feeder7a+ *14
228Super CreepsE2 5c **10
229Zoot Horn Rollo7a+ *12
230Scary MonstersE1 5b *13
231Goats R Us6b+ *50
232winter chimneyHS 4b  
233Explorer Cath7a+ *8
234Talk To AngelsE3 5c **3
235Postcard from Titan7b **11
236In Violet6c *8
238Terrace GullyS 4a  
239The Prime Slime ClubE1 5b  
240Little WingE4 6b  
241Make No MistakeE4 6a  
242Demented WoodpeckerE5 6a  
243Rum Doodling7a+ 5
244Captain Morgan7b *7
245Beverly's Wall6b+ **48
246SpacehunterE6 6b *** 
247Return of the Gunfighter7c ***19
248Star Spangled Banner7b+ ***27
249Starscape7b+ ***22
250SkyScrape7b+ ***13
251Fornicator Simulator8a **14
252Bush Administration6c+ 25
253Forbidden ZonesE5 6a **2
254The Missionary6b 25
255Hyperspace Trek and Travel7c+ **1
256ElidorE2 5b  
257BonanzaE5 6a  
258GeronimoS 1
259No ReservationsE3 5c  
260SiouxieE5 6c  
261Stone WarriorE5 6a  
262StonedE6 6b  
263DoomwatchE1 5b 1
264DeathwatchE3 5c  
265CrimewatchE3 5c  
266Ho, Ho, Ho7a **15
267No!, No, No!6c *8
268Cold War7b+ **2
269Fountain of ArethusaE6 6b ** 
270Red BerettaE5 6b  
271KephaloniaE5 6a ***6
272Cruising the MedE5 6a  
273The Scented IsleE5 6a ** 
274Thermopylae7b **18
275Rape of the Sabine Women7a+ *8
276Screw ArchimedesE4 6b  
277MadrugadaE4 6a  
278La Del GiocondaE2 6a  
279The Golden Road to SamarkandE3 6b  
280Potwalloper's WallE4 6a  
281SpeltershakeE5 6b  
282Rufus RoughcutE2 5b  
283The Russians Are BackE3 6a **1
284Breakfast at Timothy'sE4 6a **1
285Galactica8b 2
287Round the Bend7a 61
288Tied in Knots6c **122
289Zanzibar6c *107
290DodoE1 5b  
291The PioneersE5 6b  
292Long Shot Kick-E-BucketE4 6a  
293spotlightE1 5c  
294Nose ClimbE1 5b 3
295By A NoseVS 5a 1
296Partners in Crime6c+ *66
297Whippersnappers7a+ *75
298Creme de la Phlegm6c *126
299British Summer Time6a+ **292
300I've Started6c+ 56
30112000 Miles6a+ *206
302Smooth Operator6a **349
303Speaking to a Dead Man6b *260
304Tourist Distraction5a 353
305Reunion at Nightfall5a 201
306One Horse Town5c 17
307Her Indoors5c 89
308Just For Fun6b+ 44
309It Ain't Necessary6c 45
310PlaceboVS 4c 3
311Viper CrackVS 5a *8
313The Common StartXS  
314Small Men, Long Shorts6a 34
315Beware Men with Beards6b+ *35
316Space Tourist6b+ **136
317IrradiationE5 6a  
318AfterglowE4 6a  
319Road to ParadiseE5 6b  
320Paradise RegainedE5 6b  
321Strangler in ParadiseE5 6b  
322The VisionaryE3 a0  
323For Ever and Ever7b+ **4
324Bird of Paradise7b+ ***14
325Paradise Lost7b ***54
326Bristol's Got Talent8c ** 
327Touching the Void7b+ 3
328The Midnight Run7b+ **2
329Gates of Eden7c ***4
330The Other Side of Paradise7c ***3
331Edge of Eternity7c ***10
332UtopiaHVS 4c **45
333The Horse Knows the WayE2 5b 1
334The Sunset Score7a+ **15
335Sunsations7a+ *9
336NirvanaE2 5b *1
337The Man That Never WasE5 6a/b  
338The Underground Influence7b **2
339Deja RueE1 5a  
340The PerishersE4 6a  
341Northern LightsE2 5b  
343Back in Black6b *97
344Instigate Emergency Closure6b+ *54
345My Sweet Gord7b *8
346Mendipian Way7a+ **79
347Super-Styling6a 71
348Trusty Rusty6a+ *48
349Aarbi's Virgin Start6b+ *70
350The Darkness Beckons7a+ **36
351Pirates of Lamb Leer7a *69
352Mercurian Sump Dweller7b+ **28
353Burma RoadE2 5c *12
354Aung San Sun Kyi7b+ **3
355Brazilia '877a+ ***2
356Brazilia7b **13
357AvatarE3 5c/6a **2
358MalaiseE3 5c/6a *1
359The ProwE5 6a/b **1
361Princess6c 5
362Maybe Tomorrow7a+ 4
363Chavs Can Stall At Any Time7a *4
364Big is Beautiful6b 5
365Sister Morphine7a+ 4
366It Won't Take Long6b+ 3
367Gimme Shelter6a 10
368Little England4a 11
369Fax Your Face from the Afterlife7b+ *6
370Lost Cause7a+ *18
371Pipped at the Post7b **11
372Mourning GloryVS 11
373What a BringdownE2 5b  
374Black SpitfireE5 6b  
375HurricaneE6 6b  
376Wall of BansE2  
377The Hidden TowersHVS 5a  
378Hidden BeautyE4 6a  
379Doomsday MachineE5 6b  
381PortalS 4a 2
383After WorkVD 1
384Inverted-VS 2
385Right-On-SightVS 4c 1
387The EmpireE5 6a ***3
388CaesarE4 6a ***4
389BackstabbersE6 6b **2
390Have Epic, Write Book, Make FilmE6 6b * 
391Caesar Direct7b+ **4
392That Thing8a * 
393Jupiter Stone8a *** 
394B'n'BE6 6b *2
395M'n'ME5 6b * 
396Fall of the EmpireE4 6a  
398Creationist Whack Job6c *4
399Who's Nailin' Pailin?6c *3
400Play the White ManE4 6a * 
401No Slings Attached7b *4
402Big FootE5 6b * 
403Bad DogE5 6a ** 
404Desert RatE5 6a/b **1
405Miss MystiqueE6 6b **1
406Wishing WallE6 6b ***2
407Shangri-La7b+ **54
408The Wrecking Crew7c+ **2
409The Mettle Detector7c+ **17
410Still Waters Run Deep7b ***120
411Stone the CrowsE3 5c  
412CrowE3 5c/6a ***30
413Sherryland7a+ 55
414HallucinationsE5 6b  
415West RouteE6 6a 1
416LionheartE5 6b  
417SpiritualizeE7 6b 1
418RamesesE4 6a  
419OsirisE3 6a 4
420Coronation StreetE1 5b ***288
421Project XE5 6a  
422SceptreVS 4c 37
423Sceptre DirectHVS 5a 2
424Danger BirdE3 5b  
425Kind of HushE3 6a  
426The In SpireE5 6b  
427Take the Bull By the HornsE4 6a  
428The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **63
429Silent NightE4 6a *9
430Crown of CreationE2 5c 1
431Shakin' Like a Leaf7a ***236
432The Fall6c+ *60
433Dada7a *62
434RoadshowE2 5c 2
435Shem ShakHVS 5a 1
436Plastic BulletsE2 5c 1
437No MnemonicsE5 6a  
438Free EnterpriseE4 5c  
439The Flying RickshawsE1 5c *3
440Hot LantaE2 5b 10
441Eat a PeachHVS 5a *10
442MorituriE1 5b 8
443RPs Out, Matt Ward's In!E5 6a  
444ChossHS 4a  
445JillS 4a 70
446JackVS 4c 27
447Dig This, PeopleE4 6a  
448Sense of DoubtE2 5c 1
449Fool's OvertureE1 5c  
450FinefingerE1 5b 7
451Shaved FishE1 5b 4
452Right CrackHVS 5a 2
453Rock RobbersVD 4
454Geronimosports4c 17
455Dickie's MintD 8
456CragAttaKHS 4a *4
457High Rock GirdleE1 5a 2
458Soopa DoopaE3 6a  
459The BlighterE5 6b  
460East SlabD 6
461Easy WayD 12
462Central RouteS 4a 20
463The SlabS 4a 28
464Mike's Party PieceVS 5a 12
465West Wall ClimbVS 5a 7
466Windy CrackS 4a 17
467Pinnacle RouteD 17
468Champagne PolkaE2 5b 2
469Acceleration WaltzE2 5c *4
470The Fearless FourE5 6a 3
471Positively BunkyE1 5b  
472Just Like ArtE3 6a  
473Too Much Cream; Not Enough Jam5c 13
474Wind Rock CornerHS 4a *11
476Yup, Yup and Away7b+ *7
477Farewell to the Working Classes7a+ **32
478Cleared for Take OffE1 5b  
479Just Another SundayE2 5c  
480Do or Dole7c 4
481The ClingonE4 6a *2
482A Pinch of ThoughtE2 5c  
483The Best Thins in Life Aren't ThingsE2 5c  
484True Colours7b **6
485Best of ThingsE4 6b  
486AhimsaE3 5c ***47
487Stripped for ActionHVS 5b  
488Dream CruiseE3 5c **9
489ThorHVS 5b **42
490Does Rock Dream?VD  
491AscinaE3 5c *8
492Lest We ForgetE2 6a  
493BaselineE5 6a * 
494Never Forget a FaceE2 6a  
495BackhanderE5 6a * 
496Knight's ClimbD 91
497Rook's ClimbVS 4b 2
499Manic Depression7a+ *30
500Scarred Mind7c 12
501SchizoidE5 6a ***6
502Manchmals7b+ *43
503Speedfreak7a+ **110
504Bored of Pies7c 31
505Sheer Lunacy7b *40
506Yes Men6a+ 105
507Nonplus One7b 17
508Shock of the New7b+ **87
509On Radio7b+ *21
510Radio Numbness7a+ **1
511The Numb Ones6b+ **144
512The Babbler7a+ 17
513Tarmac Terminator7a 27
514Big Mac Regurgitator7b *43
515Little GemE4 6a **11
516Erotica Narcotica7c * 
518Quicksnake6b 9
519Ice and Easy6a *31
520Cooler Thinking6a 35
521Sun Shine Underground5a 38
522Shadows In The Mist6b+ *13
524Clean Hand ManE5 6a  
525State of MindE5 6b 2
526Broken ArrowHVS 5a  
527Bent SpearHVS 5a  
528Wild ThymeE1 5a  
529Branchwalker6b+ *86
530Fuzzy LogicE2 5b  
531Neural Network6b 62
532Prodigal Sun6c *37
533Sunnyside Up7a **118
534Fool's Bolt7b 10
535Opt Out6b ***132
536Say (Cheddar) Cheese6c+ 27
537Chalk and Cheese7a+ *28
538Parallel Lines6c **12
539Sport for All6b+ *25
540Sun Blind6c 6
541Green ManS 8
542Abort, Retry, Ignore7a+ 23
543The China Shop6c *28
544Dulled SwordHVS 5b  
545Poached EggsE2 6b  
546Always on My Mind6a *72
547Hang This - Sucker!7a 9
548Over Easy6b+ 27
549Microscopic6c 14
550Arson - A Burning Desire6b+ *67
551Gardeners' World6c 40
552Mono Talk7a+ 30
553Wiggly Park4a *65
554BooVS **17
556Va-Va-VoomE2 5b *4
557Yippee-ki-YayE5 6a *2
558Black NightS 4a *14
559Curious HoleE1 5b 1
560BeamingHS 4a 2
561Goat to NaxosE1 5a 2
562Soay SauceE3 6b 1
563GoatmealE4 6b 1
564Nanny StateE5 6b 1
565Have Your Goat and Eat itE4 6b *1
566In a RutE5 6a 1
567On a Wild Goat ChaseHS 4a *4
568Stench of GoatE1 5c 2
569Extreme Athletes FootE5 6b 1
570Extreme AphidE4 5c 1
571Everyone's a LegendE5 6a 1
572Goat in BootsVD 4
573Escape GoatE2 6a 1
574Counting Goats-for NigelS 4a 5
575Goat-Finder GeneralHVS 5b 2
576Goat on CokeE1 5b 2
577Void runner8a **2
578Ka7b+ 1
579Trotter,S **3
580Rocking Horse,S 2
581Wall End.S 1
582Patitucci Bass7a+ **2
583A New SiberiaE4 6a ***2
584Nice CrackE3 6a **2
585ShadowlandsE4 6a **1
586MorganaVS 4b 1
587Celebrity Cheddar-HandsE3 5c *1
588I'm a Non-entity: Get Me out of HereE4 6a *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Castles Made of Sand is no longer the Longest Sport Route in the UK, The Rock Bottom Line in Twll Mawr, Dinorwic Slate Quarries is currently the longest fully bolted Sport route in the UK. Rhinestone Cowboy on the Little Orme may also have a claim for the longest sport / trad / hybrid route in the UK.
ian Ll-J - 07/Oct/11 A really useful tool!
beardy mike - 02/Nov/10
Utopia is also clean. Top out is still an exciting ivy cornice though, wouldn't be right to remove all the ivy. Fantastic climb, second pitch is awesome just climb around the blocks at the bottom of the chimney. There are bolt belays on sport routes that you can use if you want. A good first cheddar adventure! Enjoy
SC - 14/Dec/07
Rooks climb VS is now clean. Excellent three pitch route, fantastic exposure on the first pitch. Second pitch looks harder than it is, the flared chimney is hilariously good fun. The ledge is sitll covered in ivy but you can traverse across the bottom of the face on big jugs. Finish on the excellent top pitch of Knights climb. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
Utopia, the classic VS has had a recent clean. Not perfect but a bit of traffic will soon have it sorted. Still a big adventure, spectacuar positions & tricky climbing. First pitch is probably 5a. There is a bolt belay (from another route) about 5 meters above and left of the original belay, nice to be able to choose. Bolt belay at the top of the first chimney. Top of the second chimney is very exciting, hands full of ivy! Original top pitch looked beyond help so we didn't bother. Walk off left to the summit of sunset buttress & take in the best view in somerset. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
The 'well trodden path/scramble' noted in the guide book was actually pretty dangerous, steep with loose rock, mud and general unpleasantness. There is an old rope in place for assistance, and it *seems* trustworthy at time of writing. However, I'd warn off going for the higher crags in the gully. We wasted an hour scrambling up, gave up, came down and went climbing by the roadside. Much more sensible.
tomrowan - 16/Oct/06