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These details were last updated on 11/Sep/2010

Cheddar Gorge South

Somerset, ENGLAND

Climbs 548 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
Dirty, sometimes vegetated limestone of variable quality. Mainly middle grade climbs, predominately single pitch to 30 metres.

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), Cheddar Gorge (2006), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Cheddar Gorge project supplement

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SPIDER HOLE  
2bombay duckVS 4b 4
3crashed mattVS 5a 2
4Terminate a Tourist TodayE1 5a 1
5Will It? Won't It?HVS 4c 1
6Matthus MatthusE3 5c 1
7Magnus PykeE1 5b 1
8Think (Cheddar) PinkHVS 5a 1
9Lager SpikerE2 6a/b 1
10Larger BikerE4 6a 1
11Rough RoaderE1 5a 1
12Rough SleeperE1 5b 2
13Camp Fire's BurningVD 3
14Phantom BoltsE2 6b 1
 THE FAR BAY  
16Elliot's FagE3 6a *2
17Nice to See You Two!HVS 5a 2
18All the Juicy BitsE3 5c 2
19VanityE1 5a/b *4
20Mirror, MirrorE3 5c  
21Eaten AliveE2 5c * 
22Terrible TicksE2 5b  
 PIGS' HOLE  
24Bolt Wars7b 3
25Progressive RockE4 6b  
26Pump up the Volume7b 6
27Cream Tease7b *27
28Newton's WalE3 5c *2
29ChicHVS 5a *13
30SlowundressE4 6a 1
31SorceressE6 6b ***1
32Follow the Slick Red Road (to Gdansk)7c *40
33Straw Dogs8a+ 1
34Licking Tarmack7c+ *2
35Jazz Defector7c+ *2
36Sidewinder6c 26
37One for the Money6a+ *61
38Loser's Choice6b **64
39Slalom6c *27
40Erotica Pocketta6c **39
41Trail of the Snail6b+ *11
42Grand NationalE4 6a *1
43Woody's TraverseV7 9
44heartbleedE4 6b 1
 THE HOLDING BAY  
46Don't Let Me DownE6 6b *1
47'Hold, Hold, Hold!'7b+ *1
48Hold Me TightE5 6b  
49Motherless ChildVS 5a * 
50Life's Too Short for Plucking MushroomsE3 5b  
51Victim of CircumstanceVS 4c *1
52Teenage Riot7a+ 2
53ArachnophiliaHVS 5a  
 ROADSIDE  
55In the MoodE4 6a  
56Who's Sorry Now?E2 5a/b  
57Ice Cube in a Turkish BathE3 5c  
58E3 5cE3 5c  
59Peuterey Ridge InferieurE5 5c *1
60MerapiE5 6b 1
 PEPYS ROCK  
62Peep ShowE5 6b  
63Fine Cut GlassE3 5c  
64Cut GlassE3 5c *1
65Harry Patch Memorial ClimbE3 5c  
66Igor7a+ *5
67Told You My Girl's Got Muscles7b 2
 QUAKING WALL  
69Million Dollar legsHVS 5a/b  
70NutCrockerE3 6b  
71Late EntryE3 5c/6a * 
72Late Entry Direct StartE3 6b  
73Clair's ComplexityE3 5c/6a ** 
74Not the Original StartE4 6b  
75Fun PoliceE4 6a * 
76AshmanE2 5c *1
77Bloody TouristsE3 5c ** 
78Safe and Legal to Do SoE4 5c * 
79The DeceiverE2 5b * 
80Red Light Spells DangerE2 5c 2
81Who Do You Want to Be on Your Tombstone?E2 5b *2
 RESERVOIR WALLS  
83ShrapnelE2 5b 2
84Short FuseE3 1
85Ready Steady GoE1 1
86Heavy Metal Eurotrash7a+ 1
87The Harder They Come7c *3
88The Harder They Fall7b+ **9
89Big Softy7b *6
90Steroid Power7a+  
91New Year GroovesVS 4c 8
92ConsolationE1 5b **23
93Eden CrackM 42
94TemptationHS 4b 37
95Milky WheyE2 6a 1
96Bolt Action7b  
97Small Is BigE6 6a/b *2
98One Foot in the GraveE5 6a  
99Sidekick7a *41
100Dig for VictoryHVS 5a *2
101Good with the GirlsE2 6a 2
102PlaqueE4 6a 2
103ContortionHS 4b 7
104MarsVS 4c 1
105smoothVS 4c 3
106Hung Jury6a *27
 SHOOT GULLY WALLS  
108Thisbe ChimneyVD 4
109Thisbe CrackS 4a 5
110Thisbe SlabS 4a 12
111Narrow ButtressS 9
112Pyramus ArêteVS 4b 4
113SugarloafD 8
114PyramusM 8
115Narrow CrackS 5
 GINSBERG WALL  
117Eight-Line PoemHVS 5a  
118Mooney's Route7a *16
119Mir7a 13
12020017a 8
121Canary in a CoalmineE2 5b  
122BlitzE3 6a  
123Donner und Blitzen7b *22
124Ripe Old age7b **39
125Heaven-SentE6 6b 1
126Heaven-Sent DirectE7 6b ***1
127Hell-Bent7c *11
128Just Plain Bent7c 3
129Draggin' Along7c+ 33
130Hell Bent For Drag7c+ **2
131Barbarian7b+ **55
132Gran Torino7b 6
133Get That Man7a+ ***146
134GinsbergE5 6b *6
135GinsengE5 6c  
136Beatnik Tea PartyE4 6a * 
137Rat, Tat, TatE5 6b  
138EngineersE2 5b 2
139Putnam's FollyHVS 5b  
140Condensation StreetE3 5c  
141Quarante Pourcent Matiere GrasseE3 6a  
142The CoreE2 5b  
143Grueome GrooveE2 5b  
144April FoolsS 4a 2
145Prince AndrewE3 5b  
 YEW TREE WALL  
147William in ChileE2 5c *13
148GobbledegookE1 5b *9
149Another Dick on the WallE5 6b 1
150PilfererE2 5c *7
151Turkey TrotE4 6a **6
152Croaking in Woking7a *62
153The Knack7a *50
154Tell It Like It Is7b *17
155A Simple Tale7a+ *23
156Plead Guilty7a+ *26
157Mr X6b 8
158Ambiguously Straightforward6b 139
159Mystery RouteHVS 5a 3
160Yew Tree GrooveVS 4c 10
161No Bolts Please, We're British!S 4a 3
162Mea CulpaE2 5b  
163ExodusHVS 5a  
164GenesisHVS 5a 1
165Needs of the ManyE2 5c  
166Shock PhilosophyE5 6a  
167The BurnerHVS 5b  
168Blurred VisionHVS 5a  
169FloatersE4 5c  
170Creeping WeaknessE3 5c  
171Show Some RestraintE1 5a/b  
 LONG WALL  
173Any Moment NowE2 5c 1
174TuskE3 6a  
175The IdesE4 6a *2
176BrusqueE5 6a/b **1
177Ice CoolE1 5b *9
178The Penultimate TearE4 6a  
179Black Magic WomanE1 5b 2
180DevadipE3 6a  
181White LadyE2 5c *7
182Lay, Lady, Lay AwayE5 6b  
183Sloe GinHS 4a **33
184HeirloomE3 6a 3
185Live DustS 5
186Phantom GardnerE1 5b *1
187EcocriticalE5 6a *1
188The Demon TrundlerHVS 4c **10
189Demonic AreteE1 5a/b **10
190Candy 'O'E3 5c * 
191Open TopE4 5c  
192SightsearsE6 6b *2
193Pure JoyE4 6a * 
194Big DealVS 4c **19
195Kaput Four FingersE6 6b *2
196Misty MorningE2 5c *4
197Desert GorgeE5 6a *1
198TremorgansE2 5c 3
 WARLORD WALL  
200WarlordE4 6a/b ***6
201Adventure Before Sport7a *5
202Doc Martin's7c ***3
203Every Step of the WayE6 6b *** 
204BrainbiterE2 5b ***15
205Hall of Fame7b+ **1
206MedusaE3 6a **2
207MegalomaniaE1 5b ** 
208Seventy Foot ChimneyVS 4b 1
209Stone Cold Fever6b+ ***49
210It's Going to be Ugly6a+ 14
211East Wind BluesE2 5c *2
212Bamboleo6c *2
213Abdominal Cave-in7a+ 2
214Heaven And Earth ShowE3 5c ***8
215BabylonE4 6a **1
216Tombstonef7C ***3
217SullenbergerE1 5c ***21
218Castles Made of Sand6c ***51
219The Witching Hours6c 5
220Air Conditioning as Standard7a **16
221Rear EntryE2 5b **10
222Bottom Feeder7a+ *14
223Super CreepsE2 5c **6
224Zoot Horn Rollo7a+ *12
225Scary MonstersE1 5b *8
226Goats R Us6b+ *40
227winter chimneyHS 4b  
228Explorer Cath7a+ *7
229Talk To AngelsE3 5c **1
230Postcard from Titan7b **11
231In Violet6c *6
 SPACEHUNTER WALL  
233Terrace GullyS 4a  
234The Prime Slime ClubE1 5b  
235Little WingE4 6b  
236Make No MistakeE4 6a  
237Demented WoodpeckerE5 6a  
238Rum Doodling7a+ 5
239Captain Morgan7b *7
240Beverly's Wall6b+ **34
241SpacehunterE6 6b *** 
242Return of the Gunfighter7c ***11
243Star Spangled Banner7b+ ***16
244Starscape7b+ ***14
245SkyScrape7b+ ***11
246Fornicator Simulator8a **10
247Bush Administration6c+ 20
248Forbidden ZonesE5 6a **2
249The Missionary6b 21
250Hyperspace Trek and Travel7c+ **1
251ElidorE2 5b  
252BonanzaE5 6a  
253GeronimoS 1
254No ReservationsE3 5c  
255SiouxieE5 6c  
256Stone WarriorE5 6a  
257StonedE6 6b  
258DoomwatchE1 5b  
259DeathwatchE3 5c  
260CrimewatchE3 5c  
261Ho, Ho, Ho7a **12
262No!, No, No!6c *7
263Cold War7b+ **2
264Fountain of ArethusaE6 6b ** 
265Red BerettaE5 6b  
266KephaloniaE5 6a ***4
267Cruising the MedE5 6a  
268The Scented IsleE5 6a ** 
269Thermopylae7b **16
270Rape of the Sabine Women7a+ *7
271Screw ArchimedesE4 6b  
272MadrugadaE4 6a  
273La Del GiocondaE2 6a  
274The Golden Road to SamarkandE3 6b  
275Potwalloper's WallE4 6a  
276SpeltershakeE5 6b  
277Rufus RoughcutE2 5b  
278The Russians Are BackE3 6a **1
279Breakfast at Timothy'sE4 6a **1
280Galactica8b 1
 HORSESHOE BEND BUTTRESS  
282Round the Bend7a 40
283Tied in Knots6c **85
284Zanzibar6c *84
285DodoE1 5b  
286The PioneersE5 6b  
287Long Shot Kick-E-BucketE4 6a  
288spotlightE1 5c  
 Climb nameGradex
289Nose ClimbE1 5b 2
290By A NoseVS 5a  
291Partners in Crime6c+ *50
292Whippersnappers7a+ *53
293Creme de la Phlegm6c *94
294British Summer Time6a+ **227
295I've Started6c+ 42
29612000 Miles6a+ *157
297Smooth Operator6a **269
298Speaking to a Dead Man6b *208
299Tourist Distraction5 271
300Reunion at Nightfall5 140
301One Horse Town5+ 14
302Her Indoors5+ 71
303Just For Fun6b+ 35
304It Ain't Necessary6c 34
305PlaceboVS 4c 3
306Viper CrackVS 5a *7
 SUNSET BUTTRESS  
308The Common StartXS  
309Small Men, Long Shorts6a 26
310Beware Men with Beards6b+ *29
311Space Tourist6b+ **97
312IrradiationE5 6a  
313AfterglowE4 6a  
314Road to ParadiseE5 6b  
315Paradise RegainedE5 6b  
316Strangler in ParadiseE5 6b  
317The VisionaryE3 a0  
318For Ever and Ever7b+ **3
319Bird of Paradise7b+ ***12
320Paradise Lost7b ***38
321Bristol's Got Talent8c ** 
322Touching the Void7b+ 3
323The Midnight Run7b+ **1
324Gates of Eden7c ***2
325The Other Side of Paradise7c ***3
326Edge of Eternity7c ***6
327UtopiaHVS 4c **32
328The Horse Knows the WayE2 5b  
329The Sunset Score7a+ **7
330Sunsations7a+ *5
331NirvanaE2 5b *1
332The Man That Never WasE5 6a/b  
333The Underground Influence7b **1
334Deja RueE1 5a  
335The PerishersE4 6a  
336Northern LightsE2 5b  
 BURMESE WALL  
338Back in Black6b *64
339Instigate Emergency Closure6b+ *41
340My Sweet Gord7b *5
341Mendipian Way7a+ **53
342Super-Styling6a 54
343Trusty Rusty6a+ *33
344Aarbi's Virgin Start6b+ *51
345The Darkness Beckons7a+ **25
346Pirates of Lamb Leer7a *48
347Mercurian Sump Dweller7b+ **19
348Burma RoadE2 5c *8
349Aung San Sun Kyi7b+ **2
350Brazilia '877a+ ***2
351Brazilia7b **10
352AvatarE3 5c/6a **1
353MalaiseE3 5c/6a * 
354The ProwE5 6a/b **1
 GREAT ROCK  
356Princess6c 5
357Maybe Tomorrow7a+ 4
358Chavs Can Stall At Any Time7a *4
359Big is Beautiful6b 5
360Sister Morphine7a+ 4
361It Won't Take Long6b+ 3
362Gimme Shelter6a 10
363Little England4 11
364Fax Your Face from the Afterlife7b+ *4
365Lost Cause7a+ *13
366Pipped at the Post7b **8
367Mourning GloryVS 11
368What a BringdownE2 5b  
369Black SpitfireE5 6b  
370HurricaneE6 6b  
371Wall of BansE2  
372The Hidden TowersHVS 5a  
373Hidden BeautyE4 6a  
374Doomsday MachineE5 6b  
 PRIEST ROCK  
376PortalS 4a 2
 CLIFF TOP TIER  
378After WorkVD 1
379Inverted-VS 1
380Right-On-SightVS 4c 1
 THE AMPHITHEATRE  
382The EmpireE5 6a ***3
383CaesarE4 6a ***1
384BackstabbersE6 6b **1
385Have Epic, Write Book, Make FilmE6 6b * 
386Caesar Direct7b+ **4
387That Thing8a * 
388Jupiter Stone8a *** 
389B'n'BE6 6b *2
390M'n'ME5 6b * 
391Fall of the EmpireE4 6a  
 HIGH ROCK  
393Creationist Whack Job6c *4
394Who's Nailin' Pailin?6c *3
395Play the White ManE4 6a * 
396No Slings Attached7b *4
397Big FootE5 6b * 
398Bad DogE5 6a ** 
399Desert RatE5 6a/b **1
400Miss MystiqueE6 6b **1
401Wishing WallE6 6b ***2
402Shangri-La7b+ **44
403The Wrecking Crew7c+ **2
404The Mettle Detector7c+ **11
405Still Waters Run Deep7b ***92
406Stone the CrowsE3 5c  
407CrowE3 5c/6a ***26
408Sherryland7a+ 38
409HallucinationsE5 6b  
410West RouteE6 6a 1
411LionheartE5 6b  
412SpiritualizeE7 6b 1
413RamesesE4 6a  
414OsirisE3 6a 4
415Coronation StreetE1 5b ***217
416Project XE5 6a  
417SceptreVS 4c 30
418Sceptre DirectHVS 5a  
419Danger BirdE3 5b  
420Kind of HushE3 6a  
421The In SpireE5 6b  
422Take the Bull By the HornsE4 6a  
423The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **51
424Silent NightE4 6a *6
425Crown of CreationE2 5c  
426Shakin' Like a Leaf7a ***159
427The Fall6c+ *48
428Dada7a *46
429RoadshowE2 5c 2
430Shem ShakHVS 5a 1
431Plastic BulletsE2 5c  
432No MnemonicsE5 6a  
433Free EnterpriseE4 5c  
434Hot LantaE2 5b 3
435Eat a PeachHVS 5a *5
436MorituriE1 5b 6
437RPs Out, Matt Ward's In!E5 6a  
438ChossHS 4a  
439JillS 4a 55
440JackVS 4c 17
441Dig This, PeopleE4 6a  
442Sense of DoubtE2 5c 1
443Fool's OvertureE1 5c  
444FinefingerE1 5b 7
445Shaved FishE1 5b 3
446Right CrackHVS 5a 1
447Rock RobbersVD 1
448Geronimosports4+ 13
449Dickie's MintD 8
450CragAttaKHS 4a *4
451High Rock GirdleE1 5a 2
452Soopa DoopaE3 6a  
453The BlighterE5 6b  
454East SlabD 5
455Easy WayD 9
456Central RouteS 4a 14
457The SlabS 4a 26
458Mike's Party PieceVS 5a 8
459West Wall ClimbVS 5a 7
460Windy CrackS 4a 11
461Pinnacle RouteD 13
462The Fearless FourE5 6a 2
463Positively BunkyE1 5b  
464Just Like ArtE3 6a  
465Too Much Cream; Not Enough Jam5+ 11
466Wind Rock CornerHS 4a *6
 ACID ROCK  
468Yup, Yup and Away7b+ *6
469Farewell to the Working Classes7a+ **19
470Cleared for Take OffE1 5b  
471Just Another SundayE2 5c  
472Do or Dole7c 3
473The ClingonE4 6a *1
474A Pinch of ThoughtE2 5c  
475The Best Thins in Life Aren't ThingsE2 5c  
476True Colours7b **3
477Best of ThingsE4 6b  
478AhimsaE3 5c ***38
479Stripped for ActionHVS 5b  
480Dream CruiseE3 5c **6
481ThorHVS 5b **32
482Does Rock Dream?VD  
483AsinaE3 5c *6
484Lest We ForgetE2 6a  
485BaselineE5 6a * 
486Never Forget a FaceE2 6a  
487BackhanderE5 6a * 
488Knight's ClimbD 70
 FREAKY WALL  
490Manic Depression7a+ *23
491Scarred Mind7c 8
492SchizoidE5 6a ***5
493Manchmals7b+ *31
494Speedfreak7a+ **80
495Bored of Pies7c 20
496Sheer Lunacy7b *30
497Yes Men6a+ 73
498Nonplus One7b 11
499Shock of the New7b+ **68
500On Radio7b+ *13
501The Numb Ones6b+ **107
502The Babbler7a+ 14
503Tarmac Terminator7a 13
504Big Mac Regurgitator7b *30
505Little GemE4 6a **9
506Erotica Narcotica7c * 
 THE TOWER  
508Quicksnake6b 6
509Ice and Easy6a *24
510Cooler Thinking6a 25
511Sun Shine Underground5 29
512Shadows In The Mist6b+ *11
 SUNNYSIDE TERRACE  
514Clean Hand ManE5 6a  
515State of MindE5 6b 2
516Broken ArrowHVS 5a  
517Bent SpearHVS 5a  
518Wild ThymeE1 5a  
519Branchwalker6b+ *70
520Fuzzy LogicE2 5b  
521Neural Network6b 43
522Prodigal Sun6c *31
523Sunnyside Up7a **96
524Fool's Bolt7b 9
525Opt Out6b ***103
526Say (Cheddar) Cheese6c+ 22
527Chalk and Cheese7a+ *25
528Parallel Lines6c **9
529Sport for All6b+ *21
530Sun Blind6c 5
531Green ManS 4
532Abort, Retry, Ignore7a+ 18
533The China Shop6c *19
534Dulled SwordHVS 5b  
535Poached EggsE2 6b  
536Always on My Mind6a *65
537Hang This - Sucker!7a 8
538Over Easy6b+ 26
539Microscopic6c 9
540Arson - A Burning Desire6b+ *45
541Gardeners' World6c 24
542Mono Talk7a+ 25
543Wiggly Park4 *43
544BooVS **15
 BOY RACERS' WALL  
546Va-Va-VoomE2 5b *2
547Yippee-ki-YayE5 6a *2
548Black NightS 4a *12
549Curious HoleE1 5b 1
550BeamingHS 4a 1
551Goat to NaxosE1 5a 2
552Soay SauceE3 6b 1
553GoatmealE4 6b 1
554Nanny StateE5 6b 1
555Have Your Goat and Eat itE4 6b *1
556In a RutE5 6a 1
557On a Wild Goat ChaseHS 4a *2
558Stench of GoatE1 5c 2
559Extreme Athletes FootE5 6b 1
560Extreme AphidE4 5c 1
561Everyone's a LegendE5 6a 1
562Goat in BootsVD 2
563Escape GoatE2 6a 1
564Counting Goats-for NigelS 4a 2
565Goat-Finder GeneralHVS 5b 2
566Goat on CokeE1 5b 2
567Void runner8a **2
568Ka7b+ 1
569Trotter,S **3
570Rocking Horse,S 2
571Wall End.S 1
572Patitucci Bass7a+ **2
573A New SiberiaE4 6a ***2
574Nice CrackE3 6a **1
575ShadowlandsE4 6a **1
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Access notes
NB: See the General Cheddar Gorge access notes for an overview of climbing restictions. Top-end cliffs are the northenmost climbable rock in the Gorge, and can be reached by foot from the road.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Castles Made of Sand is no longer the Longest Sport Route in the UK, The Rock Bottom Line in Twll Mawr, Dinorwic Slate Quarries is currently the longest fully bolted Sport route in the UK. Rhinestone Cowboy on the Little Orme may also have a claim for the longest sport / trad / hybrid route in the UK.
ian Ll-J ? - 07/Oct/11

http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&cp=sjdvw3gs353r&style=o&lvl=1&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=27925530&encType=1 A really useful tool!
mike kann ? - 02/Nov/10

Utopia is also clean. Top out is still an exciting ivy cornice though, wouldn't be right to remove all the ivy. Fantastic climb, second pitch is awesome just climb around the blocks at the bottom of the chimney. There are bolt belays on sport routes that you can use if you want. A good first cheddar adventure! Enjoy
SC - 14/Dec/07

Rooks climb VS is now clean. Excellent three pitch route, fantastic exposure on the first pitch. Second pitch looks harder than it is, the flared chimney is hilariously good fun. The ledge is sitll covered in ivy but you can traverse across the bottom of the face on big jugs. Finish on the excellent top pitch of Knights climb. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07

Utopia, the classic VS has had a recent clean. Not perfect but a bit of traffic will soon have it sorted. Still a big adventure, spectacuar positions & tricky climbing. First pitch is probably 5a. There is a bolt belay (from another route) about 5 meters above and left of the original belay, nice to be able to choose. Bolt belay at the top of the first chimney. Top of the second chimney is very exciting, hands full of ivy! Original top pitch looked beyond help so we didn't bother. Walk off left to the summit of sunset buttress & take in the best view in somerset. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07

The 'well trodden path/scramble' noted in the guide book was actually pretty dangerous, steep with loose rock, mud and general unpleasantness. There is an old rope in place for assistance, and it *seems* trustworthy at time of writing. However, I'd warn off going for the higher crags in the gully. We wasted an hour scrambling up, gave up, came down and went climbing by the roadside. Much more sensible.
tomrowan - 16/Oct/06