Cheddar Gorge South

Climbs 559 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
Dirty, sometimes vegetated limestone of variable quality. Mainly middle grade climbs, predominately single pitch to 30 metres.

Access notes

NO CLIMBING is allowed on the South (north-facing) side of the gorge during times of public and school holidays. Details of all restrictions can be viewed on the BMC RAD pages.

2014 Cheddar Gorge Access Calendar

Civil liability insurance (e.g. BMC/MCoS/CC membership) is mandatory and proof of this must be carried. Spot checks are carried out regularly by the warden.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Cheddar Gorge (2006), Avon and Cheddar (2004), Avon and Cheddar (1992), Cheddar Gorge project supplement

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SPIDER HOLE 
2bombay duckVS 4b
3crashed mattVS 5a
4Terminate a Tourist TodayE1 5a
5Will It? Won't It?HVS 4c
6Matthus MatthusE3 5c
7Magnus PykeE1 5b
8Think (Cheddar) PinkHVS 5a
9Lager SpikerE2 6a/b
10Larger BikerE4 6a
11Rough RoaderE1 5a
12Rough SleeperE1 5b
13Camp Fire's BurningVD
14Phantom BoltsE2 6b
 THE FAR BAY 
16Elliot's FagE3 6a *
17Nice to See You Two!HVS 5a
18All the Juicy BitsE3 5c
19VanityE1 5a/b *
20Mirror, MirrorE3 5c
21Eaten AliveE2 5c *
22Terrible TicksE2 5b
23All Hallows EvenS *
 PIGS' HOLE 
25Bolt Wars7b
26Progressive RockE4 6b
27Pump up the Volume7b
28Cream Tease7b *
29Newton's WalE3 5c *
30ChicHVS 5a *
31SlowundressE4 6a
32SorceressE6 6b ***
33Follow the Slick Red Road (to Gdansk)7c *
34Straw Dogs8a+
35Licking Tarmac7c+ *
36Woody's into Licking Tarmac8b **
37Jazz Defector7c+ *
38Sidewinder6c
39One for the Money6a+ *
40Loser's Choice6b **
41Slalom6c *
42Erotica Pocketta6c **
43Trail of the Snail6b+ *
44Grand NationalE4 6a *
45Woody's TraverseV7
46heartbleedE4 6b
 THE HOLDING BAY 
48Don't Let Me DownE6 6b *
49'Hold, Hold, Hold!'7b+ *
50Hold Me TightE5 6b
51Motherless ChildVS 5a *
52Life's Too Short for Plucking MushroomsE3 5b
53Victim of CircumstanceVS 4c *
54Teenage Riot7a+
55ArachnophiliaHVS 5a
 ROADSIDE 
57In the MoodE4 6a
58Who's Sorry Now?E2 5a/b
59Ice Cube in a Turkish BathE3 5c
60E3 5cE3 5c
61Peuterey Ridge InferieurE5 5c *
62MerapiE5 6b
 PEPYS ROCK 
64Peep ShowE5 6b
65Fine Cut GlassE3 5c
66Cut GlassE3 5c *
67Harry Patch Memorial ClimbE3 5c
68Igor7a+ *
69Told You My Girl's Got Muscles7b
 QUAKING WALL 
71Million Dollar legsHVS 5a/b
72NutCrockerE3 6b
73Late EntryE3 5c/6a *
74Late Entry Direct StartE3 6b
75Clair's ComplexityE3 5c/6a **
76Not the Original StartE4 6b
77Fun PoliceE4 6a *
78AshmanE2 5c *
79Bloody TouristsE3 5c **
80Safe and Legal to Do SoE4 5c *
81The DeceiverE2 5b *
82Red Light Spells DangerE2 5c
83Who Do You Want to Be on Your Tombstone?E2 5b *
 RESERVOIR WALLS 
85ShrapnelE2 5b
86Short FuseE3
87Ready Steady GoE1
88Heavy Metal Eurotrash7a+
89The Harder They Come7c *
90The Harder They Fall7b+ **
91Big Softy7b *
92Steroid Power7a+
93New Year GroovesVS 4c
94ConsolationE1 5b **
95Eden CrackM
96TemptationHS 4b
97Milky WheyE2 6a
98Bolt Action7b
99Small Is BigE6 6a/b *
100One Foot in the GraveE5 6a
101Sidekick7a *
102Dig for VictoryHVS 5a *
103Good with the GirlsE2 6a
104PlaqueE4 6a
105ContortionHS 4b
106MarsVS 4c
107smoothVS 4c
108Hung Jury6a *
 SHOOT GULLY WALLS 
110Thisbe ChimneyVD
111Thisbe CrackS 4a
112Thisbe SlabS 4a
113Narrow ButtressS
114Pyramus ArêteVS 4b
115SugarloafD
116PyramusM
117Narrow CrackS
 GINSBERG WALL 
119Eight-Line PoemHVS 5a
120Mooney's Route7a *
121Mir7a
12220017a
123Canary in a CoalmineE2 5b
124BlitzE3 6a
125Donner und Blitzen7b *
126Ripe Old age7b **
127Heaven-SentE6 6b
128Heaven-Sent DirectE7 6b ***
129Hell-Bent7c *
130Just Plain Bent7c
131Draggin' Along7c+
132Hell Bent For Drag7c+ **
133Barbarian7b+ **
134Gran Torino7b
135Get That Man7a+ ***
136GinsbergE5 6b *
137GinsengE5 6c
138Beatnik Tea PartyE4 6a *
139Rat, Tat, TatE5 6b
140EngineersE2 5b
141Putnam's FollyHVS 5b
142Condensation StreetE3 5c
143Quarante Pourcent Matiere GrasseE3 6a
144The CoreE2 5b
145Grueome GrooveE2 5b
146April FoolsS 4a
147Prince AndrewE3 5b
 YEW TREE WALL 
149William in ChileE2 5c *
150GobbledegookE1 5b *
151Another Dick on the WallE5 6b
152PilfererE2 5c *
153Turkey TrotE4 6a **
154Croaking in Woking7a *
155The Knack7a *
156Tell It Like It Is7b *
157A Simple Tale7a+ *
158Plead Guilty7a+ *
159Mr X6b
160Ambiguously Straightforward6b
161Mystery RouteHVS 5a
162Yew Tree GrooveVS 4c
163No Bolts Please, We're British!S 4a
164Mea CulpaE2 5b
165ExodusHVS 5a
166GenesisHVS 5a
167Needs of the ManyE2 5c
168Shock PhilosophyE5 6a
169The BurnerHVS 5b
170Blurred VisionHVS 5a
171FloatersE4 5c
172Creeping WeaknessE3 5c
173Show Some RestraintE1 5a/b
 LONG WALL 
175Any Moment NowE2 5c
176Crimp-master C Featuring Hips JHE5 6b/c
177TuskE3 6a
178The IdesE4 6a *
179BrusqueE5 6a/b **
180Ice CoolE1 5b *
181The Penultimate TearE4 6a
182Black Magic WomanE1 5b
183DevadipE3 6a
184White LadyE2 5c *
185Lay, Lady, Lay AwayE5 6b
186Sloe GinHS 4a **
187HeirloomE3 6a
188Live DustS
189Phantom GardnerE1 5b *
190EcocriticalE5 6a *
191The Demon TrundlerHVS 4c **
192Demonic AreteE1 5a/b **
193Candy 'O'E3 5c *
194Open TopE4 5c
195SightsearsE6 6b *
196Pure JoyE4 6a *
197Big DealVS 4c **
198Kaput Four FingersE6 6b *
199Misty MorningE2 5c *
200Desert GorgeE5 6a *
201TremorgansE2 5c
 WARLORD WALL 
203WarlordE4 6a/b ***
204Adventure Before Sport7a *
205Doc Martin's7c ***
206Every Step of the WayE6 6b ***
207BrainbiterE2 5b ***
208Hall of Fame7b+ **
209MedusaE3 6a **
210Planet PerfectoE5 6a
211Reel Empty FeelingE4 6a
212MegalomaniaE1 5b **
213Seventy Foot ChimneyVS 4b
214Stone Cold Fever6b+ ***
215It's Going to be Ugly6a+
216East Wind BluesE2 5c *
217Bamboleo6c *
218Abdominal Cave-in7a+
219Heaven And Earth ShowE3 5c ***
220BabylonE4 6a **
221Tombstonef7C ***
222SullenbergerE1 5c ***
223Castles Made of Sand6c ***
224The Witching Hours6c
225Air Conditioning as Standard7a **
226Rear EntryE2 5b **
227Bottom Feeder7a+ *
228Super CreepsE2 5c **
229Zoot Horn Rollo7a+ *
230Scary MonstersE1 5b *
231Goats R Us6b+ *
232winter chimneyHS 4b
233Explorer Cath7a+ *
234Talk To AngelsE3 5c **
235Postcard from Titan7b **
236In Violet6c *
 SPACEHUNTER WALL 
238Terrace GullyS 4a
239The Prime Slime ClubE1 5b
240Little WingE4 6b
241Make No MistakeE4 6a
242Demented WoodpeckerE5 6a
243Rum Doodling7a+
244Captain Morgan7b *
245Beverly's Wall6b+ **
246SpacehunterE6 6b ***
247Return of the Gunfighter7c ***
248Star Spangled Banner7b+ ***
249Starscape7b+ ***
250SkyScrape7b+ ***
251Fornicator Simulator8a **
252Bush Administration6c+
253Forbidden ZonesE5 6a **
254The Missionary6b
255Hyperspace Trek and Travel7c+ **
256ElidorE2 5b
257BonanzaE5 6a
258GeronimoS
259No ReservationsE3 5c
260SiouxieE5 6c
261Stone WarriorE5 6a
262StonedE6 6b
263DoomwatchE1 5b
264DeathwatchE3 5c
265CrimewatchE3 5c
266Ho, Ho, Ho7a **
267No!, No, No!6c *
268Cold War7b+ **
269Fountain of ArethusaE6 6b **
270Red BerettaE5 6b
271KephaloniaE5 6a ***
272Cruising the MedE5 6a
273The Scented IsleE5 6a **
274Thermopylae7b **
275Rape of the Sabine Women7a+ *
276Screw ArchimedesE4 6b
277MadrugadaE4 6a
278La Del GiocondaE2 6a
279The Golden Road to SamarkandE3 6b
280Potwalloper's WallE4 6a
281SpeltershakeE5 6b
282Rufus RoughcutE2 5b
283The Russians Are BackE3 6a **
284Breakfast at Timothy'sE4 6a **
285Galactica8b
 HORSESHOE BEND BUTTRESS 
287Round the Bend7a
288Tied in Knots6c **
289Zanzibar6c *
290DodoE1 5b
291The PioneersE5 6b
292Long Shot Kick-E-BucketE4 6a
293spotlightE1 5c
294Nose ClimbE1 5b
295By A NoseVS 5a
296Partners in Crime6c+ *
297Whippersnappers7a+ *
298Creme de la Phlegm6c *
299British Summer Time6a+ **
300I've Started6c+
30112000 Miles6a+ *
302Smooth Operator6a **
303Speaking to a Dead Man6b *
304Tourist Distraction5a
305Reunion at Nightfall5a
306One Horse Town5c
307Her Indoors5c
308Just For Fun6b+
309It Ain't Necessary6c
310PlaceboVS 4c
311Viper CrackVS 5a *
 SUNSET BUTTRESS 
313The Common StartXS
314Small Men, Long Shorts6a
315Beware Men with Beards6b+ *
316Space Tourist6b+ **
317IrradiationE5 6a
318AfterglowE4 6a
319Road to ParadiseE5 6b
320Paradise RegainedE5 6b
321Strangler in ParadiseE5 6b
322The VisionaryE3 a0
323For Ever and Ever7b+ **
324Bird of Paradise7b+ ***
325Paradise Lost7b ***
326Bristol's Got Talent8c **
327Touching the Void7b+
328The Midnight Run7b+ **
329Gates of Eden7c ***
330The Other Side of Paradise7c ***
331Edge of Eternity7c ***
332UtopiaHVS 4c **
333The Horse Knows the WayE2 5b
334The Sunset Score7a+ **
335Sunsations7a+ *
336NirvanaE2 5b *
337The Man That Never WasE5 6a/b
338The Underground Influence7b **
339Deja RueE1 5a
340The PerishersE4 6a
341Northern LightsE2 5b
 BURMESE WALL 
343Back in Black6b *
344Instigate Emergency Closure6b+ *
345My Sweet Gord7b *
346Mendipian Way7a+ **
347Super-Styling6a
348Trusty Rusty6a+ *
349Aarbi's Virgin Start6b+ *
350The Darkness Beckons7a+ **
351Pirates of Lamb Leer7a *
352Mercurian Sump Dweller7b+ **
353Burma RoadE2 5c *
354Aung San Sun Kyi7b+ **
355Brazilia '877a+ ***
356Brazilia7b **
357AvatarE3 5c/6a **
358MalaiseE3 5c/6a *
359The ProwE5 6a/b **
 GREAT ROCK 
361Princess6c
362Maybe Tomorrow7a+
363Chavs Can Stall At Any Time7a *
364Big is Beautiful6b
365Sister Morphine7a+
366It Won't Take Long6b+
367Gimme Shelter6a
368Little England4a
369Fax Your Face from the Afterlife7b+ *
370Lost Cause7a+ *
371Pipped at the Post7b **
372Mourning GloryVS
373What a BringdownE2 5b
374Black SpitfireE5 6b
375HurricaneE6 6b
376Wall of BansE2
377The Hidden TowersHVS 5a
378Hidden BeautyE4 6a
379Doomsday MachineE5 6b
 PRIEST ROCK 
381PortalS 4a
 CLIFF TOP TIER 
383After WorkVD
384Inverted-VS
385Right-On-SightVS 4c
 THE AMPHITHEATRE 
387The EmpireE5 6a ***
388CaesarE4 6a ***
389BackstabbersE6 6b **
390Have Epic, Write Book, Make FilmE6 6b *
391Caesar Direct7b+ **
392That Thing8a *
393Jupiter Stone8a ***
394B'n'BE6 6b *
395M'n'ME5 6b *
396Fall of the EmpireE4 6a
 HIGH ROCK 
398Creationist Whack Job6c *
399Who's Nailin' Pailin?6c *
400Play the White ManE4 6a *
401No Slings Attached7b *
402Big FootE5 6b *
403Bad DogE5 6a **
404Desert RatE5 6a/b **
405Miss MystiqueE6 6b **
406Wishing WallE6 6b ***
407Shangri-La7b+ **
408The Wrecking Crew7c+ **
409The Mettle Detector7c+ **
410Still Waters Run Deep7b ***
411Stone the CrowsE3 5c
412CrowE3 5c/6a ***
413Sherryland7a+
414HallucinationsE5 6b
415West RouteE6 6a
416LionheartE5 6b
417SpiritualizeE7 6b
418RamesesE4 6a
419OsirisE3 6a
420Coronation StreetE1 5b ***
421Project XE5 6a
422SceptreVS 4c
423Sceptre DirectHVS 5a
424Danger BirdE3 5b
425Kind of HushE3 6a
426The In SpireE5 6b
427Take the Bull By the HornsE4 6a
428The Twilight of ImperialismE2 5b **
429Silent NightE4 6a *
430Crown of CreationE2 5c
431Shakin' Like a Leaf7a ***
432The Fall6c+ *
433Dada7a *
434RoadshowE2 5c
435Shem ShakHVS 5a
436Plastic BulletsE2 5c
437No MnemonicsE5 6a
438Free EnterpriseE4 5c
439The Flying RickshawsE1 5c *
440Hot LantaE2 5b
441Eat a PeachHVS 5a *
442MorituriE1 5b
443RPs Out, Matt Ward's In!E5 6a
444ChossHS 4a
445JillS 4a
446JackVS 4c
447Dig This, PeopleE4 6a
448Sense of DoubtE2 5c
449Fool's OvertureE1 5c
450FinefingerE1 5b
451Shaved FishE1 5b
452Right CrackHVS 5a
453Rock RobbersVD
454Geronimosports4c
455Dickie's MintD
456CragAttaKHS 4a *
457High Rock GirdleE1 5a
458Soopa DoopaE3 6a
459The BlighterE5 6b
460East SlabD
461Easy WayD
462Central RouteS 4a
463The SlabS 4a
464Mike's Party PieceVS 5a
465West Wall ClimbVS 5a
466Windy CrackS 4a
467Pinnacle RouteD
468Champagne PolkaE2 5b
469Acceleration WaltzE2 5c *
470The Fearless FourE5 6a
471Positively BunkyE1 5b
472Just Like ArtE3 6a
473Too Much Cream; Not Enough Jam5c
474Wind Rock CornerHS 4a *
 ACID ROCK 
476Yup, Yup and Away7b+ *
477Farewell to the Working Classes7a+ **
478Cleared for Take OffE1 5b
479Just Another SundayE2 5c
480Do or Dole7c
481The ClingonE4 6a *
482A Pinch of ThoughtE2 5c
483The Best Thins in Life Aren't ThingsE2 5c
484True Colours7b **
485Best of ThingsE4 6b
486AhimsaE3 5c ***
487Stripped for ActionHVS 5b
488Dream CruiseE3 5c **
489ThorHVS 5b **
490Does Rock Dream?VD
491AscinaE3 5c *
492Lest We ForgetE2 6a
493BaselineE5 6a *
494Never Forget a FaceE2 6a
495BackhanderE5 6a *
496Knight's ClimbD
497Rook's ClimbVS 4b
 FREAKY WALL 
499Manic Depression7a+ *
500Scarred Mind7c
501SchizoidE5 6a ***
502Manchmals7b+ *
503Speedfreak7a+ **
504Bored of Pies7c
505Sheer Lunacy7b *
506Yes Men6a+
507Nonplus One7b
508Shock of the New7b+ **
509On Radio7b+ *
510Radio Numbness7a+ **
511The Numb Ones6b+ **
512The Babbler7a+
513Tarmac Terminator7a
514Big Mac Regurgitator7b *
515Little GemE4 6a **
516Erotica Narcotica7c *
 THE TOWER 
518Quicksnake6b
519Ice and Easy6a *
520Cooler Thinking6a
521Sun Shine Underground5a
522Shadows In The Mist6b+ *
 SUNNYSIDE TERRACE 
524Clean Hand ManE5 6a
525State of MindE5 6b
526Broken ArrowHVS 5a
527Bent SpearHVS 5a
528Wild ThymeE1 5a
529Branchwalker6b+ *
530Fuzzy LogicE2 5b
531Neural Network6b
532Prodigal Sun6c *
533Sunnyside Up7a **
534Fool's Bolt7b
535Opt Out6b ***
536Say (Cheddar) Cheese6c+
537Chalk and Cheese7a+ *
538Parallel Lines6c **
539Sport for All6b+ *
540Sun Blind6c
541Green ManS
542Abort, Retry, Ignore7a+
543The China Shop6c *
544Dulled SwordHVS 5b
545Poached EggsE2 6b
546Always on My Mind6a *
547Hang This - Sucker!7a
548Over Easy6b+
549Microscopic6c
550Arson - A Burning Desire6b+ *
551Gardeners' World6c
552Mono Talk7a+
553Wiggly Park4a *
554BooVS **
 BOY RACERS' WALL 
556Va-Va-VoomE2 5b *
557Yippee-ki-YayE5 6a *
558Black NightS 4a *
559Curious HoleE1 5b
560BeamingHS 4a
561Goat to NaxosE1 5a
562Soay SauceE3 6b
563GoatmealE4 6b
564Nanny StateE5 6b
565Have Your Goat and Eat itE4 6b *
566In a RutE5 6a
567On a Wild Goat ChaseHS 4a *
568Stench of GoatE1 5c
569Extreme Athletes FootE5 6b
570Extreme AphidE4 5c
571Everyone's a LegendE5 6a
572Goat in BootsVD
573Escape GoatE2 6a
574Counting Goats-for NigelS 4a
575Goat-Finder GeneralHVS 5b
576Goat on CokeE1 5b
577Void runner8a **
578Ka7b+
579Trotter,S **
580Rocking Horse,S
581Wall End.S
582Patitucci Bass7a+ **
583A New SiberiaE4 6a ***
584Nice CrackE3 6a **
585ShadowlandsE4 6a **
586MorganaVS 4b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Castles Made of Sand is no longer the Longest Sport Route in the UK, The Rock Bottom Line in Twll Mawr, Dinorwic Slate Quarries is currently the longest fully bolted Sport route in the UK. Rhinestone Cowboy on the Little Orme may also have a claim for the longest sport / trad / hybrid route in the UK.
ian Ll-J - 07/Oct/11
http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&cp=sjdvw3gs353r&style=o&lvl=1&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=27925530&encType=1 A really useful tool!
beardy mike - 02/Nov/10
Utopia is also clean. Top out is still an exciting ivy cornice though, wouldn't be right to remove all the ivy. Fantastic climb, second pitch is awesome just climb around the blocks at the bottom of the chimney. There are bolt belays on sport routes that you can use if you want. A good first cheddar adventure! Enjoy
SC - 14/Dec/07
Rooks climb VS is now clean. Excellent three pitch route, fantastic exposure on the first pitch. Second pitch looks harder than it is, the flared chimney is hilariously good fun. The ledge is sitll covered in ivy but you can traverse across the bottom of the face on big jugs. Finish on the excellent top pitch of Knights climb. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
Utopia, the classic VS has had a recent clean. Not perfect but a bit of traffic will soon have it sorted. Still a big adventure, spectacuar positions & tricky climbing. First pitch is probably 5a. There is a bolt belay (from another route) about 5 meters above and left of the original belay, nice to be able to choose. Bolt belay at the top of the first chimney. Top of the second chimney is very exciting, hands full of ivy! Original top pitch looked beyond help so we didn't bother. Walk off left to the summit of sunset buttress & take in the best view in somerset. Enjoy.
SC - 15/Oct/07
The 'well trodden path/scramble' noted in the guide book was actually pretty dangerous, steep with loose rock, mud and general unpleasantness. There is an old rope in place for assistance, and it *seems* trustworthy at time of writing. However, I'd warn off going for the higher crags in the gully. We wasted an hour scrambling up, gave up, came down and went climbing by the roadside. Much more sensible.
tomrowan - 16/Oct/06
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These details were last updated on 05/Aug/2014

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