Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth)

Climbs 104 – Rocktype Culm – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
This refers to the mile or so long length of cliff, south of Northcott Mouth, almost to Bude.

There are a couple of useful PDF guides for the Kloptomaniac area and Skull and Crossbones Wall at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/NewRoutes/NorthDevonCornwall.shtml#northcott

Bouldering is covered in Dave Westlake's excellent mini guide http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/SouthCulm/SouthernCulmBouldering.pdf

Access notes
Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
North Devon and Cornwall (2000), Javu website new routes

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 NORTHCOTT BEACH  
2 Christmas CrackHVS 4c 1
3ComittedVS 4a  
4Committed againE1 4c  
5J Lof7C **10
6Watford Gap AreteV3 6a 7
 UNSHORE ROCK  
8Dark NightE5 6a/b * 
9Angry CockroachesE6 6c * 
10After DarkE4 6a *2
11Mexican BlackbirdM  
12Bronco BelayerHVS  
 THE BLACK WALL  
14The Needle TreeE3 5a  
15The Ungrateful SecondsE6 6a 3
16BugsyE6 6a **2
17Big BlackE6 6a *1
18Fortune Faces the BraveE6 6a/b ** 
19Twilight WatersE4 5c  
20OceansE5 6a/b ***1
21Night MaerE6 6a  
22Ground FallE1 5a  
23SundownerE3 6a/b 1
 THE NAME ZAWN  
25The Name Doesn't Matter Start (Left-Hand)f7A+ ***2
26The Name Doesn't MatterE6 6b ** 
27BodysnatchersE6 6b *1
28WartsE3 6a  
29The Pinchf7A ***18
30Undercut ProblemE3 6b **3
 KLEPTOMANIAC AREA  
32ShadowsVD *15
33ShadesHVD 18
34SunVS 4c 42
35SeaVS 4b 23
36SandHVS 5b 24
37SurfHVS 5a 4
38SewageHS 4c *9
39JosephHS 6
40Strawberry SomethingHS 4a 2
41KleptomaniacE1 5b **39
42HadrianE2 5b 9
43BronteE2 5c **16
44Foxman and Robin's Zawn DuelE3 5b  
45Fears for Tears Direct StartHVS 5a 8
46Fear of TearsVS 4c 2
47Kicking Over the TracesE1 5b *14
48Fears for TearsVS 4c 12
49The WallE1 5b *31
50It'll End in SmearsE2 5b 2
51Tormented TendonE4 6a *2
52Midst of a TraumaE5 6a 3
53AardvarkVS 4c 11
54Turn Left at the RoundaboutE2 5b  
55Dangerous DriverE1 5b 8
56Straight on at the LightsE1 5b 4
57CulminationE3 5b  
58Railedf6C+ 1
59Jammingf6A+ 1
60Writers' Guildf6B *1
61Macca's ProblemV5 6a **1
62Red Quinne Cave Traversef7A+ **18
63Captain Crushf7C+ ***2
64Red Quinnief7C ***5
65Unnamed (rear of the Ulterior Motive block)f6B 1
66Alternative Motivef7A+ 3
67Ulterior Motivef7C * 
68Ulterior Motive (stand Start)f7A 7
69Slopeless Nightsf6C 1
70Earthquake AreteV1  
71Left Aretef5+ 1
72Alternative Motive (Standing Start)f5+ 1
73Right Aretef4+ 2
74Dot MatrixV1 1
75Typo NegativeV0+  
76Crystal CrimpV0+ 1
 THE WAFER  
78South face of the HornHS 4b 6
79Tide dancerHVS 5b 2
80Imminent DepartureS 5a 3
81The Roaming ScepticHVS 5a *1
82The Unending CynicS 5b *3
83The DoubterS 5b 3
84The NaysayerS 5c **2
85Departed along the DutchS 5b **3
86Cold FeetS 5c **3
87Dutch DepartureE2 5c 1
88The Perpetual PessimistVS 5a 5
89The Optimistic PessimistHVS 4c 5
90Miss Placed OptimismHVS 5a **3
91Skull and CrossbonesHVS 4c **7
92The Eternal OptimistE2 5b **5
93Suicidal OptimistE3 5c 1
94Turbid LegacyE2 5c **7
95Probing PhobiaE3 5b  
96FreedomE4 6b *1
97Cry of LoveE3 5c * 
98Little Big Horn Left Hand AreteV1 5b 2
99Little Big Horn Central 6aV3 6a 1
100Mark's Slab Left Hand CrackV1 5b * 
101Mark's Slab traverseV5 6b *1
102Mark's Slab cracklineV0 5a *1
 FLAXEN WALL  
104Till Dreaming's DoneE1 5c **6
105MilleniumHVS 5b *13
 WRANGLE POINT  
107Surfers' SlabVS 4a  
108HassleHVS 4b *3
109HussleHVS 4b  
110PrevaricationHVS  
111SerpicoE1 5b  
112IronsideHVS 4c  
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