Box Bay

Climbs 83 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Access notes
Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
47My Friend ShepHVS 5a 43
49Left CornerVD 181
50Aah-ck-ak-ak-akVD 116
51Jellyfish TicklerHS 4b 132
52Peaceful Easy FeelingS 228
53Jack's Noisy SquealingS 129
54Valley GirlsS 95
55Up And DownD 125
56Olive OyleS 85
57PopeyeS 166
58Sweet Pea SouperVS 4b 150
59BlutoS 126
60Estuary Scum On The Welsh RivieraHVS 5b 83
61Surf's UpHS 21
62SlingshotVD 82
63Mill PondS 46
64Black ButtressS 57
66Prickly BulgeS 4b 63
67Injector ChimneyD 69
68Injector WallHS 4b 1
69StrapadictomeE1 5b 75
70The OverhangsE2 5c *28
71Right RibHS 4b 2
72Smooth CrackVD 4
74The Drowned RatS 4a 1
75The SlabM 19
76No BelayerVS 4c 1
77Belayers FollyVS 4c 40
78Dead In The WaterVS 5a 28
79The ElectricianE1 5b 42
80The Drowning ManD 37
81It's Only MeD 8
82Mother Mary's MantleHS 4a *5
84Sickle Cell AnaemiaE1 5b 3
85The Geo GraduateVB 4b 1
86Alf Garnett Meets Myles JordanVS 5b 2
87Spectre Versus RectorVS 4c 2
88Spectre Versus Rector DirectVS 4c 2
90Problem No.1f4 1
91The Pathetic Aretef4 1
92Problem No. 2f5 1
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What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06