Box Bay

Climbs 79 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Access notes
Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
45Cow Eyed AreteHS 4b
46My Friend ShepHVS 5a
48Left CornerVD
50Jellyfish TicklerHS 4b
51Peaceful Easy FeelingS
52Jack's Noisy SquealingS
53Valley GirlsS
54Up And DownD
55Olive OyleS
57Sweet Pea SouperVS 4b
59Estuary Scum On The Welsh RivieraHVS 5b
60Surf's UpHS
62Mill PondS
63Black ButtressS
65Prickly BulgeS 4b
66Injector ChimneyD
67Injector WallHS 4b
68StrapadictomeE1 5b
69The OverhangsE2 5c *
70Right RibHS 4b
71Smooth CrackVD
73The Drowned RatS 4a
74The SlabM
75No BelayerVS 4c
76Belayers FollyVS 4c
77Dead In The WaterVS 5a
78The ElectricianE1 5b
79The Drowning ManD
80It's Only MeD
81Mother Mary's MantleHS 4a *
83Sickle Cell AnaemiaE1 5b
84The Geo GraduateVB 4b
85Alf Garnett Meets Myles JordanVS 5b
86Spectre Versus RectorVS 4c
87Spectre Versus Rector DirectVS 4c
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What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 13/Oct/2014

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