Helman Tor

Climbs 91 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Helman Tor offers a wonderful setting and excellent selection of boulder problems across the grade range and also a couple of mid grade routes all on fantastic rough friction filled granite.

There are a wide varity of problems of all types including aretes slabs and roofs with a wide variety of techniques required and not a little commitment on some of the problems. The lovely soft grassy landings on almost all of the problems do help to compensate for this!

The short route Bloody Helman is well worth a visit as is the excellent arete on the lower tier (p22). Other problems of note are 4a Crack, Battle of the Bulge and No Grieving as well as almost all the problems on the lower tier.

Access notes
The crag is easily reached from the main A30. Follow this to the junction with the A391 signposted to the Eden Project. Once you have taken this exit follow the signs to Bugle. After around 500m take the first left hand turn you come to. Within 100m or so turn right sign post to Luxuluyan. Follow this road until a left turn sign posted Helman Tor. Continue along this road for just over 1km until you see a wooden signpost on the left side of the road and a turning on the right through two granite posts. Follow this track to the car park on the left.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2The AreteV1 5b *
3The FaceV1 5a
4The SnatchV1 5c
5Gibbons TraverseV1
6Cave TraverseV8 6c
7British East AfricaV7 6c ***
8Ice Cream SoldiersV6 6b ***
9Beam TraverseV2 5b *
10Moves MeV8 6c
11Problem 41V1 5c
12The Ultimate EccentricityV1
14Battle of the Bulge (p13)V2 6a **
15Crystal BallV3 6a/b
164a CrackV0 4a **
17Bodmin QueenV9 **
18The Cracked EggV1 5c
20End face sitterV3 5c **
21Chickenhead BlocV2 5c
22Problem 12 (Face Direct)V5 6c+ *
23problem 11 (Inside Corner)V0- 4a
24Problem 10 (Left arete)VB 5a *
25Problem 9 (Thin Crack)V0 5b **
26Problem 8 (Corner climb)V0+ 4c *
27Problem 7.5 (Left wall direct)V3 6b
28Problem 7 (Left Wall)V0 5b *
29Problem 6 (The Arete)V3 6b *
30problem 5 (Face crack)V2 6a
31Problem 4 (The Crack)V0- 3c
32Problem 3 (The Face)V1 5c
33problem 2 (Corner Crack)VB 4a
34No Grieving (p1)V3 6b **
35Upper Area girdleV1 5c
37Hells AngelsE3 6a
38Bloody HelmanE4 6a **
39Hell's ToothE2 5c
40The Saint's WayS 4b *
41The Penintent ManS
42Angel DelightVD
43Problem 25 (rounded nose)V1 5c
44problem 24 (The Flakes)V0 5a *
45Problem 23 (Wall on crystals)V2 6a
46Problem 22 (The Arete Left)V2 6b **
47Left Arete SitterV6 6b ***
48Problem 21 (The Arete right)V0 6a
49problem 20 (The wall)V0 5b
50Problem 19 (The Flake)V0 5a *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Macca_7

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
An excellent bouldering venue, about 40 problems, V0-V6 and a few higher climbs. Fantastic views. Small car park at end of lane and few minutes walk to boulders.
Gus Horsley - 27/Feb/06