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Desplomilandia

Malaga / El Chorro, SPAIN

Climbs 162 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 531m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Set in the hills way above the confines of El Chorro, and peering out over the picturesque turquoise lakes of Ardales, are the excellent crags that are collectively referred to as Desplomilandia. There is a good deal of climbing here for more experienced climbers but nothing really for those operating in the 'green spot' grades. For climbers looking for harder routes though, there is plenty on offer and all of it on immaculate rock, and in a shady setting.

Guidebooks
El Chorro (2008), Andalucia (2005),
Out of print: El Chorro MiniGuide (2005), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (2001), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (1998), Costa Blanca. Mallorca, El Chorro (1996)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	EL TRIANGULO
2	Triángulo	7a+	1
3	Estirpe pelleja	7a *	15
4	Maligno catarro	6c+ *	24
5	El nasty	7c *
6	Aljamar	7b **	1
7	Potencia triangular	7a+ **	4
8	Reina mora	7c **
9	Zeus kapotas	?
10	Mar de Ortigas	8a ***	7
11	No toques a tu madre	8a+ **
12	Madre salvaje	7c ***	26
13	Oasis de cristal	7c **
14	La conexión pelirroja	8a **	7
15	Que tal mea tu padre?	7b **	35
16	Mas que money	7b+ *	8
17	De copas	7b *	6
18	La copa	7b *
	EL CABLE
20	Maganto pro	6a	13
21	Maganto	6a *	16
22	Aprendiz de maganto	6a+ *	30
23	Good'un	6a+ *	25
24	Puto cable	5 *	14
25	Mareo repentino	7a **	22
26	La flaca	6c+ **	16
27	La decepción	7a+ **	6
28	Uretrofilo	7a ***	24
29	Akira	7b ***	15
30	Donde estan mis amigos	7b+ **	3
31	Oleanna	7b+ **
32	Project	?
33	Mamabi	7b *	1
	LA VIDA MISMA
35	El angel flamenco	7a *	2
36	El Paso	7a+ **	1
37	Aro de santo	6c+ **	22
38	Maritobi	6a+ *	36
39	Yocare	6b **	6
40	Right of Yocare	6b **	6
41	2 right of Yocare	6b+	7
42	Wifi	6a+	11
43	Ostras pedrin	5 *	14
44	Al loro con el Xato	6c+ *	12
45	Manzanilla Madness	7a **	29
46	Cheyenne	7a+ **	18
47	Maquina pestosa	7b+ ***	7
48	Ankana wanamio	8a+ *
49	Al andalú	6c ***	29
50	Sandokan	7c **	6
51	Si te gustael pique, pique	6b **	32
52	Captain sardina	6c **	38
53	Espurga perros	6c **	21
54	Calidad alemana	6b *	17
55	El emigrante	7a+ *	4
56	El chupacabras	7a+ **	22
57	Zulu Master	7a+ *	7
58	Chica	5+	4
	BUENA SOMBRA
60	Dolomiti	7a+ *
61	Fran sin natra	7b **	35
62	Perseverancia	8a **
63	Paquistani	8a ***	4
64	Liron careto	7c ***	13
65	Liron Careto Pitch 1	7a	41
66	Escombros	5+ *	79
67	Autan	5+ *	73
68	Champion Leo	?
69	Los zauden	8a **
70	Los Zauden (to first lower off)	7a **	13
71	Derribamitos	8a **	1
72	A ella le gusta la gasolina	8a ***
73	La golosa	7c ***	4
74	El montepio de cretinos	8a
75	Escalador parasito	?
76	Las gallas	7b+
77	El comite de sabios	8a	1
78	Judas	7b **	17
79	El ruin de Roma	7c **	8
80	Viejos y puretas	7a **	56
81	Cosas caseras	7a+ ***	79
82	Tarde pero perfecto	7a **	25
83	Yogur de Coco	6c ***	141
84	Comando escandilla	6c+ ***	26

	Climb name	Grade	x

85	Hilando fino	7b *	2
86	Buena sombre	6b+ ***	132
87	Alobeitor	6a+ ***	164
88	Sin mantenimiento	6a ***	170
89	Provinciano marrano	6c **	37
90	Debora cuerpos	6b ***	121
91	Escacharra (Buena Sombra)	6b	10
92	Menasatrua	6a+ **	86
93	Efecto secundario	6b+ **	45
94	Vaya pieza	6b **	48
95	El Arco	6b	1
96	Las cosillas	6c+ *	13
97	Las cosas de mike	6b *	16
98	La pyme	6b *	8
	LA BODA
100	Sarathoga	6c+ *	3
101	Perisca	6b *	7
102	Liposuccion	7b *	8
103	Madera de higuera	7a+ *	5
104	Puta parietaria	7a+ **
105	El testigo	7a+ *	1
106	Connecting People	7b+ *	1
107	Project	?
108	Bichaca	7c **	4
109	Bulging Orange	8a+ *
110	Project	?
111	La fea	5+ *	21
112	Yolinda	6b+ *	22
113	El novio	6c+ **	23
114	Beshumiau	7a+ **	12
115	La novia	7a **	27
116	La suegra	6c **	10
117	Diente de elefante	6b **	36
118	El anillo perdido	6a+ **	31
119	La marcha atras	6c	1
	POZA DE LA MONA
121	Entre higos	6a	7
122	Laguna betiko	6b *	12
123	Buen amigo	6a *	22
124	Puerco Arana	5+ *	27
125	Parecia tonta	6a *	29
126	Esa bavaresa	6b *	22
127	Flora	6a *	38
128	Fauna	6a+ *	38
129	Cerebro de broca	6a *	29
130	Kira la bulti	6a *	33
131	Siempre Juli	6a+	21
132	Ras cubano	6a *	8
133	Las gordas no dan resaca	6b+ *	3
134	Colourful crack	?	2
135	Deate de rollo	6b+	2
136	Subete a la higuera	6a+ *	22
137	Poda higuera	6b *	19
138	Abrasiva	6c *	12
139	Malva loca	7a	4
140	Feltan negro	7b **	9
141	Arquitectura moderna	7a+ *	5
142	Bee Bee	6c+ ***	43
143	Pina disfruta	7b+ **	2
144	Vas de guais	7c **
145	Leaning meany	?
146	Silicona Beach	7b+
147	Excrementos	7a+ ***	5
148	Hirakundia	7c ***	2
149	Prosineski	7c+ *
150	Lola	?	1
151	Alacran	7b+ *	16
152	Amor al arte	7b **	7
153	Calorin	5	1
154	Ambiente selecto	6b+	2
155	Rompa Biceps *	6b+ *	7
156	Fufo Fueste *	6c	1
157	Nato *	6b+ ***	2
158	Albeitor *	6b+ ***	1
159	Left of Ostras Pedrin	5
160	El Sobeteo ajeno *	7a+ **	2
161	? *	6a *	1
162	Brioshe *	6a *	3
163	Romper Biceps *	6b ***
164	2 right of Si te Gusta el Pique Pique *	6c	3
165	Left of Espurga Perros *	6c	5
166	2 left of Espurga Perros *	6c **	4
167	Pingo *	5 *	2
168	Tarantula *	6a	3

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

The Olive Branch
El Chorro, MALAGA / EL CHORRO
"Fantastic, welcoming B&B and Climbers Self Catering accomodation to suit all, in central location very close to some fantastic climbing, walking and..."
www.olivebranchelchorro.co.uk

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Access notes
From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road up hill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (The Kiosko). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The first parking spot is at the base of a dirt track - park here for Sectors Buena Sombra and La Boda. For the other sectors, drive up the track to limited parking at a junction where another rough track on the right leads up to a col. This final section to the col is too rough to drive unless you are in a 4x4. Walk to the col from where paths lead to the various sectors. Sector Poza de la Mona is 3km further along the road towards Antequera see Sector notes on approach for parking and access details.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore