Climbs 179
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

Set in the hills way above the confines of El Chorro, and peering out over the picturesque turquoise lakes of Ardales, are the excellent crags that are collectively referred to as Desplomilandia. There is a good deal of climbing here for more experienced climbers but nothing really for those operating in the 'green spot' grades. For climbers looking for harder routes though, there is plenty on offer and all of it on immaculate rock, and in a shady setting.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road up hill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (The Kiosko). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The first parking spot is at the base of a dirt track - park here for Sectors Buena Sombra and La Boda. For the other sectors, drive up the track to limited parking at a junction where another rough track on the right leads up to a col. This final section to the col is too rough to drive unless you are in a 4x4. Walk to the col from where paths lead to the various sectors. Sector Poza de la Mona is 3km further along the road towards Antequera see Sector notes on approach for parking and access details.

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 El Triangulo 
2Triángulo7a+ 1
3Estirpe pelleja7a *27
4Maligno catarro6c+ *45
5El nasty7c * 
6Aljamar7b **1
7Potencia triangular7a+ **12
8Reina mora7c **1
9Zeus kapotas8c  
10Mar de Ortigas8a ***34
11No toques a tu madre8a+ **1
12Madre salvaje7c ***53
13Oasis de cristal7c ** 
14La conexión pelirroja8a **17
15Que tal mea tu padre?7b **63
16Mas que money7b+ *14
17De copas7b *8
18La copa7b *1
 El Cable 
20Maganto pro6a 29
21Maganto6a *36
22Aprendiz de maganto6a+ *54
23Good'un6a+ *44
24Puto cable5a *32
25Right of Puto Cable5b 2
26Mareo repentino7a **30
27La flaca6c+ **23
28La decepción7a+ **6
29Uretrofilo7a ***38
30Akira7b ***35
31Donde estan mis amigos7b+ **3
32Oleanna7b+ ** 
33Project
-
?  
34Mamabi7b *1
 La Vida Misma 
36El angel flamenco7a *5
37El Paso7a+ **2
38Aro de santo6c+ **36
39Right of Aro de santo6c  
40Maritobi6a+ *70
41Right of Maritobi5a 7
42Aldebarán
-
5a **12
43Lucita6b+ 8
44Zuli6b 11
45Yocare
-
6b **24
46El Chaparrón6b **17
47Los manolos6c **19
48Wifi6a+ 27
49Facilonga6a 12
50Kuki6a 10
51Pingo5a *16
52Ostras pedrin5a *36
53Nato6b+ ***6
54Al loro con el Xato6c+ *24
55Manzanilla Madness7a **52
56Cheyenne7a+ **29
57Maquina pestosa7b+ ***16
58Ankana wanamio8a+ *1
59Al andalú6c ***60
60Sandokina8a+ ***3
61Sandokan7c **23
62ISIS7c+ *1
63Veo Veo7a+ 1
64Right of Veo Veo1  
65Romper Biceps6b ***13
66Si te gustael pique, pique6b **62
67Captain sardina6c **67
68Right of Capitan Sardina
-
6c **11
69Two right of Capitan Sardina6c 7
70Espurga perros6c **36
71Calidad alemana6b *32
72El emigrante7a+ *8
73El chupacabras7a+ **45
74Zulu Master7a+ *18
75Chica5c 8
 Tocho del acebuche 
77El acebuche
-
7c * 
78El anillo de los nibelungos
-
7a *2
79Papi xulo
-
6c *2
80Caxé
-
7a+ *1
81Pilla ratas
-
6c+ *1
82Rantamplán
-
6a 4
83Duplo
-
6a+ *2
 Buena Sombra 
85Dolomiti7a+ * 
86Fran sin natra7b **75
87Perseverancia8a **2
88Paquistani8a ***9
89Liron careto7c ***28
90Liron Careto Pitch 17a 76
91Escombros5c *129
92Autan5c *113
93Champion Leo8b 1
94Los zauden8a **2
95Los Zauden (to first lower off)7a **34
96Derribamitos8a **1
97A ella le gusta la gasolina8a ***2
98La golosa7c+ ***9
99Right of La Golosa6a *2
100El montepio de cretinos8a  
101Escalador parasito?  
102Las gallas7b+  
103El comite de sabios8a 1
104Judas7b **43
105El ruin de Roma7c **23
106Viejos y puretas7a **108
107Cosas caseras7a+ ***133
108Tarde pero perfecto6c+ **37
109Yogur de Coco6c ***236
110Comando escandilla6c+ ***47
111Hilando fino7b *11
112Buena sombre6b+ ***233
113Alobeitor6a+ ***250
114Sin mantenimiento6a ***294
115Provinciano marrano6c **68
116Debora cuerpos6b ***196
117Escacharra (Buena Sombra)6b 13
118El Amigo de Kunfu Panda6a **18
119Menasatrua6a+ **135
120El Sobeteo ajeno7a+ **7
121Efecto secundario6b+ **78
122Vaya pieza6b **85
123El Arco6b 2
124Las cosillas6c+ *19
125Las cosas de mike6b *31
126La pyme6b *20
 La Boda 
128Sarathoga6c+ *4
129Perisca6b *10
130Liposuccion7b *9
131Madera de higuera7a+ *5
132Puta parietaria7a+ **2
133El testigo7a+ *3
134Connecting People7b+ *2
135Project
-
?  
136Bichaca7c **7
137Bulging Orange8a+ *1
138Project
-
?  
139La fea5c *37
140Yolinda6b+ *32
141El novio6c+ **32
142Beshumiau7a+ **20
143La novia7a **43
144La suegra6c **16
145Diente de elefante6b **49
146El anillo perdido6a+ **53
147La marcha atras6c 4
 Poza de la Mona 
149Entre higos6a 15
150Laguna betiko6b *32
151Buen amigo6a *35
152Puerco Arana5c *49
153Tarantula6a 16
154Parecia tonta6a *70
155Esa bavaresa6b *49
156Flora6a *75
157Fauna6a+ *69
158Cerebro de broca6a *62
159Kira la bulti6a *55
160Siempre Juli6a+ 32
161Ras cubano6a *15
162Las gordas no dan resaca6b+ *7
163Brioche6a *6
164Puto Friend6b 4
165Deate de rollo6b+ 9
166Subete a la higuera6a+ *45
167Poda higuera6b *44
168Abrasiva6c *27
169Malva loca7a 7
170Feltan negro7b **14
171Arquitectura moderna7a+ *14
172Bee Bee6c+ ***78
173Pina disfruta7b+ **10
174Vas de guais7c ** 
175Leaning meany7c  
176Silicona Beach7b+  
177Excrementos7a+ ***9
178Hirakundia7c ***2
179Prosineski7c+ * 
180Lola7a+ 4
181Alacran7b+ *25
182Amor al arte7b **9
183Ambiente selecto6b+ 2
184Calorin5a 1
185Right of Manzanilla Madness7b **2
186Bee bee right *7a+ **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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