Climbs 95
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

south coast winter © tscoobydoo

Crag features

Two contrasting walls near a couple of rock amphitheatres. One is a great beginners area the other has some steep hard routes. Escape is easy and routes mostly start from a non-tidal ledge. Abseil approach.

Approach notes

From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue along here and 150m beyond the 4th stone wall from the lighthouse (the western limit of Durlston Country park) the cliff-top path dips into a small valley above a slabby cove. Cross the fence here at a small stile. This is Amphitheatre Ledge. For the Isis and Hangover Areas either follow an exposed narrow path along the cliff-top, contouring right (looking out). Pass several belay stakes until you come to a large gearing-up ledge after 200m (just beyond another large amphitheatre known as the Lecture Theatre). Alternatively continue along the main coast path, cross a stile and follow a steep path leading down through nettle beds, and past a tall post, to the cliff-top gearing up ledge.

Additional details - July 2010: There appears to have been some land slippage a couple of feet in length half way along the narrow cliff top path, it was still passable but very suspect. Probably now best to take the alternative approach path mentioned above and make your own assessment of the situation from there.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Unknown Ledge 
2Hazhard
-
HVS 5a  
3Blast Suburbia
-
E1  
4Fuel My Fire (de-bolted 2013)8a+ **1
5Jesus and Mary ChainE3 6a **5
6The God SlotHVS 5a **10
7Noddy
-
VS 4c 4
8Squeeze ChimneyHS 4b 5
9Doppler Shift
-
HVS 5a 1
10Joe Joe's RouteHVS 5a 1
11Swingtime
-
HVS 4c 3
12Swingtime Direct
-
E2 6a 1
13DamsonHVS 5a **20
14Unknown Ledge TraverseS 4a *5
 Flake Ledge 
16The Coral PrisonVS 4b *45
17Poof
-
HS 4a 46
18Hell's TeethHVS 5a *28
19MoonstoneE1 5b *21
20Myriotissa
-
E1 5b 3
21Aguas VerdesE1 5b *6
22Glove
-
VD 43
23GrottleVD *114
24Clov
-
VD 41
25P.U.M.HS 4a 2
26Mary Rose
-
VS 4b 33
27LobsterHVS 5b *18
28ThermidorE2 5b 4
29ChalkfreeE1 5b  
30Eavesdropper
-
HVS 5b 1
31Make Like a Bird
-
HVS 5a 4
32Wessex HangoverVS 4c **51
 The Jumble 
34Wessex WayHS 4b 14
35Curving Corner
-
D 30
36Mutation
-
VD 9
37Blow Hole Route
-
D 19
38Temptation
-
VD 17
39Vee-Chimney
-
S 29
40Fingerrip
-
HVS 5c 9
41Fingertip
-
VS 5a 24
42Crazy Fingers
-
E1 6a 1
43Cheat
-
E2 6a 1
44Synergy
-
E3 5c  
45The Beastly Step
-
VD 14
 Hangover Area 
47Form a Queue
-
VS 4c 26
48The Beastly TraverseVD 26
49Scrambler's WallVD 7
50InspirationS 4a 508
51Lost In TranslationVS 4c *21
52ConsolationS 4a 440
53ChockneyVD 4a *700
54The ChimneyVD *386
55The Chimney (Direct Finish)S 4a 178
56HangoverVS 5a **335
57ResurrectionHS 4b *444
58PerfectionS 4a 215
59Old Lag's CornerVS 4c *274
60Bunneys wall lefthandHVS 5b *5
61Bunney's WallVS 5a *451
 Isis Area 
63Fallen Block ClimbVD *277
64Pulpit RouteD **354
65IomaVS 4c 7
66KariateE1 5b *2
67Pearly GateHVS 5a 90
68Eskimo NellE1 5b **133
69Tenuicollis
-
E1 5a *11
70IsisVS 4c **277
71TekneequeE1 5b 3
72ArchangelE3 6a 6
73PeacemakerE1 5b *47
74Hobbit
-
VS 4b 6
75Only Thisbig
-
HVS 5b 6
76Thisbe
-
S 4b 19
77Frisbee
-
VS 4c 7
78Midsummer Crack
-
HS 4c 12
79Tina
-
HS 4a 10
80Pyramus
-
S 3
81Little Red Watering Can
-
HS 4a 2
 Amphitheatre Ledge 
83ValentinoVD 2
84VarinaHS 4a 15
85Follow The WayE1 5b 5
86Come-on Head Do Your StuffE1 5b *5
87Uncry These TearsE2 5c *11
88Solitude
-
VS 4b 6
89Atomic Road HeroE5 6b * 
90Theory of EverythingE5 6b **5
91ZoolookologieE5 6a **9
92ShelobHVS 4c 1
93In a Big SkyE2 5c 5
94Land of the LeaningE2 5b *4
95World in ActionE5 6b **1
96Arapiles SyndromeE3 5b *3
97Mr. RuckleE1 5a *9
98Pogor
-
E1 5b 3
99GastonVS 4b 1
100DragonE1 5a 1
101Old Father ClymeHVS 4c 2

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