Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

nearly wet.. © tscoobydoo

Crag features

The first of the sport areas at Swanage. Steep bulging walls with some short and intense climbs. Still needs some re-gearing work. Easy approach and access via non-tidal ledge. One small bouldering wall and a handful of trad routes.

Approach notes

From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue to a stile just before the two

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
13/08/2012 almost all the routes have new bolts.
Haydn Jones - 13/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Benny / Tesselations Area 
2BennyA1 ***87
3Clever DickE1 5c ** 
4Atonement7c **6
5Air of Detachment7b **3
6Crimes Against the Soul7a *6
7Hot Flush Down Under7b 4
8Hot to Trot7b+ *1
9Gangster Lean6c **39
10Seppukku6c **49
11Chicago Peace6b+ **41
12Clamp Down6c+ **16
13J.J.Burnell, King of the Bass6b *29
14Just Another Victim7b+ **1
15Godfodder7c+ ** 
16A Bosch Boy, a Trad and a Funky DreddE4 6b 1
17Winking Wall
E2 6a 1
18Show of Hands7a *11
19Empowerless7a *6
20Community Service7a *6
21Revelation ChimneyVS 4c **25
22Waves Become Wings7b+ ***7
23Birth Pains of New Nations7b ***9
24Tessellations7b ***50
25Carpe Diem7b+ **12
26Total Seizure7c ***15
27State of Play7c+ **1
28Solid State Logic8a **3
 Tensile Groove Test Area 
30Defining Moment7c+ * 
31Walter's RouteVD 7
32DanglefootHD 33
33The Flail Trail6a *117
34My New Top6b+ 50
35Violent Breed7b+ **19
36Elements of Abstraction7c ** 
37Down in the Sewer7b **17
38Tensile Groove TestE4 6a **11
39West of a Cravef6C * 
40Crest of a Wave Startf6B+ ** 
41Not a Trad Routef5+ * 
42Crest of a Wave7b **8
43Crystal Voyager 2E4 6a *** 
44Star of Africa7b+ *1
45Yorkshire Talk7b+ **5
46Shock to the System7c+ **1
47The Resistor7c * 
48Electric Circus7b+ **7
49Volts Discharge7a *18
50The Undertow Traversef7A **3
51Mr.Gymnasia7a *27
52Gym'n'Tonic7b+ 1
53Load it for Me7b **11
54Load it for Me Direct7b+ ** 
55Deep Puddle Dynamics7c+ *2
56The Garage Mechanic7c *1
 Becalmed / Spacewalk Area 
58Coming in a rush7b+  
59Fat Lipf7A *1
60Chasm GrooveE1 5b **3
61Ride the Lightningf7C+ ** 
62Double-Figure E-Grade Dreamsf4+ * 
63Monumental Effortf4+ * 
64Drive Byf7A ** 
65Juggernautf7B **1
66Jack Knifef7A+ ** 
67Techno Sketchingf7A *1
68Puddle Jumperf6C+ *2
69Bob's Roof8a * 
70Baby-faced Assassin7a+ *8
71BoongaryHVS 4c *5
72Hip HopHVS 5a *1
73German New Order7b+ *3
74New Wave SlabHS 4a 1
75Distant Early WarningE1 5c 3
76Kool and the GangE1 5b *2
77Playing With Fire6c *7
78Genetix6b *13
79Seratonin7a+ *1
80Boiling Point7a *4
81To Fever Pitch7a+ *2
82Becalmed7a+ *3
83Stakk AttakkE2 5c *2
84Geordie Pride7a *7
85DWME2 5c *4
86Peggy's Cove6c+ 3
87Zeitgeist7a+ *9
88Spirits Rising7b 2
 The Futurist Area 
90A Quantum Jump for ApekindE4 6a  
91Dafinko7c * 
92The Calling7b *2
93Ocean of ViolenceE3 6a 3
94Absolute Dissent7a+ **3
95Grossville7a **34
96Spacewalk7b ***20
E2 6a 1
98Sea RideHVS 5a *24
99Hackney's HammerHVS 5a *24
100SexaphoneE6 6b ** 
101Space ThresholdE3 6a *2
102Edward's Effort (re-climbed after rock fall)E1 5b **1
103All Apologies7a+ *11
104Strangled in Black7a *14
105Titter Ye Not Mrs!6b+ **42
106Two Tickets to the Gun Show7a+ *7
HVS 4c 1
108Fat NecrosisE4 6b * 
109Rise of the Robots7b+ **28
110Liquid Steel7c **7
111The Futurist 20027b+ **3
112Event Horizon8a+ **2
113BerserkaE4 6b  
114The Shape of Roofs to Come7b *14
115Ape CrapE2 6a *1
116War of Attrition7c+ *1
117The Incredible Hulk7c **5
118Howling StoneE4 6a **3
119grockles passageVS 4c *8
 Lost routes (by Rockfall) 
121Len's Rule of the SeaE3 6a **8
122Crystal VoyagerE3 5c **8
123Ju An Si WeiVS 5a *1
124KangarooHS 4b *5
125Original RouteS 4b 4
126Spray FeverE1 5a 2
128Big Brother is Watching7a *7
129Guided by Voices7b+ *1
130Edward's EffortE1 5b *12

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