Climbs 119 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The first of the sport areas at Swanage. Steep bulging walls with some short and intense climbs. Still needs some re-gearing work. Easy approach and access via non-tidal ledge. One small bouldering wall and a handful of trad routes.

Access notes
From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue to a stile just before the two ‘mile’ pylons. From here drop down a steep grass gully to a ledge above a large rock amphitheatre. Descend (Diff) this past a tricky step at the bottom to gain the platform. There is an abseil stake if required.

Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2BennyVS ***
3Clever DickE1 5c **
4Atonement7c **
5Air of Detachment7b **
6Crimes Against the Soul7a *
7Hot Flush Down Under7b
8Hot to Trot7b+ *
9Gangster Lean6c **
10Seppukku6c *
11Chicago Peace6b+ *
12Clamp Down6c+ **
13J.J.Burnell, King of the Bass6b *
14Just Another Victim7b+ **
15GodfodderE7 6c **
16A Bosch Boy, a Trad and a Funky Dredd7a+
17Winking WallE2 6a
18Show of Hands7a *
19Empowerless7a *
20Community Service7a *
21Revelation ChimneyVS 4c **
22Waves Become Wings7b+ ***
23Birth Pains of New Nations7b ***
24Tessellations7b ***
25Carpe Diem7b+ **
26Total Seizure7c+ ***
27State of Play7c+ **
28Solid State Logic8a **
30Defining Moment7c+ *
31Walter's RouteVD
33The Flail Trail6a *
34My New Top6b+
35Violent Breed7b+ **
36Elements of Abstraction7c **
37Down in the Sewer7b **
38Tensile Groove TestE4 6a **
39Crest of a Wave7b **
40Crystal Voyager 2E4 6a **
41Star of Africa7b+ *
42Yorkshire Talk7b+ **
43Shock to the System7c+ **
44The Resistor7c *
45Electric Circus7b+ **
46Volts Discharge7a *
47The Undertow TraverseV6 **
48Mr.Gymnasia7a *
50Load it for Me7b **
51Load it for Me Direct7b+ **
52Deep Puddle Dynamics7c+ *
53The Garage Mechanic7c *
55Coming in a rush7b+
56Fat LipV6 *
57Chasm GrooveE1 5b **
58Ride the LightningV10 **
59Drive ByV6 *
61Techno SketchingV6
62Puddle JumperV5
63Bob's Roof8a *
64Baby-faced Assassin7a+ *
65BoongaryHVS 4c
66Hip HopHVS 5a
67German New Order7b+
68New Wave SlabHS 4a
69Distant Early WarningE1 5b
70Kool and the GangE1 5b *
71Playing With Fire6c *
72Genetix6b *
73Seratonin7a+ *
74Boiling Point7a *
75To Fever Pitch7a+ *
76Becalmed7a+ *
77Stakk AttakkE2 5c *
78Geordie Pride7a *
79DWME1 5c *
80Peggy's Cove6c
81Zeitgeist7a+ *
82Spirits Rising7b
84A Quantum Jump for Apekind7a
85Dafinko7c *
86The Calling7a+ *
87Ocean of ViolenceE3 6a
88Absolute Dissent7a+ **
89Grossville7a **
90Spacewalk7b ***
91Joyride E2 6a
92Sea RideHVS 5a *
93Hackney's HammerHVS 5a *
94SexaphoneE6 6b *
95Space ThresholdE3 5c *
96Edward's Effort (re-climbed after rock fall)E1 5b **
97All Apologies7a+ *
98Strangled in Black7a *
99Titter Ye Not Mrs!6b+ **
100Two Tickets to the Gun Show7a+ *
101Sargasso HVS 4c
102Fat NecrosisE4 6b *
103Rise of the Robots7b+ **
104Liquid Steel7c **
105The Futurist 20027c **
106Event Horizon8a+ **
108The Shape of Roofs to Come7b *
109Ape CrapE2 6a *
110War of Attrition7c+ *
111The Incredible Hulk7c **
112Howling StoneE4 6a **
113grockles passageVS 4c *
115Len's Rule of the SeaE3 6a **
116Crystal VoyagerE3 5c **
117Ju An Si WeiVS 5a *
118KangarooS 4b *
119Original RouteS
120Spray FeverE1 5a *
122Big Brother is Watching7a+
123Guided by Voices7b+ *
124Edward's EffortVS 4c *
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
13/08/2012 almost all the routes have new bolts.
Haydn Jones - 13/Aug/12