View larger mapGrid Ref SZ 014767 (OS Landranger #195)

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These details were last updated on 12/May/2011



Climbs 116 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
The first of the sport areas at Swanage. Steep bulging walls with some short and intense climbs. Still needs some re-gearing work. Easy approach and access via non-tidal ledge. One small bouldering wall and a handful of trad routes.

Access notes
From Durlston Car Park follow the road towards the lighthouse then turn west (right - looking out) along the coast path. Continue to a stile just before the two ‘mile’ pylons. From here drop down a steep grass gully to a ledge above a large rock amphitheatre. Descend (Diff) this past a tricky step at the bottom to gain the platform. There is an abseil stake if required.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.7mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
23 kph

3.9mm rain
14 °C
33 kph

0.2mm rain
16 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2BennyVS ***81
3Clever DickE1 5c ** 
4Atonement7c **3
5Air of Detachment7b **3
6Crimes Against the Soul7a *6
7Hot Flush Down Under7b 1
8Hot to Trot7b+ *1
9Gangster Lean6c **35
10Seppukku6c *42
11Chicago Peace6b+ *38
12Clamp Down6c+ **14
13J.J.Burnell, King of the Bass6b *25
14Just Another Victim7b+ **1
15GodfodderE7 6c ** 
16A Bosch Boy, a Trad and a Funky Dredd7a+ 1
17Winking WallE2 6a 1
18Show of Hands7a *11
19Empowerless7a *6
20Community Service7a *6
21Revelation ChimneyVS 4c **24
22Waves Become Wings7b+ ***7
23Birth Pains of New Nations7b ***9
24Tessellations7b ***43
25Carpe Diem7b+ **9
26Total Seizure7c+ ***11
27State of Play7c+ **1
28Solid State Logic8a **3
30Defining Moment7c+ * 
31Walter's RouteVD 4
32DanglefootHD 28
33The Flail Trail6a *101
34My New Top6b+ 40
35Violent Breed7b+ **17
36Down in the Sewer7b **13
37Tensile Groove TestE4 6a **9
38Crest of a Wave7b **6
39Crystal Voyager 2E4 6a ** 
40Star of Africa7b+ *1
41Yorkshire Talk7b+ **5
42Shock to the System7c+ **1
43The Resistor7c * 
44Electric Circus7b+ **7
45Volts Discharge7a *18
46The Undertow TraverseV6 **2
47Mr.Gymnasia7a *25
48Gym'n'Tonic7b+ 1
49Load it for Me7b **10
50Deep Puddle Dynamics7c+ *2
51The Garage Mechanic7c *1
52Coming in a rush7b+  
53Fat LipV6 *1
54Chasm GrooveE1 5b **3
55Ride the LightningV10 ** 
56Drive ByV6 * 
57JuggernautV7 1
58Techno SketchingV6 1
59Puddle JumperV5 2
60Bob's Roof8a * 
61Baby-faced Assassin7a+ *8
 Climb nameGradex
62BoongaryHVS 4c 4
63Hip HopHVS 5a 1
64German New Order7b+ 2
65New Wave SlabHS 4a 1
67Distant Early WarningE1 5b 3
68Kool and the GangE1 5b *2
69Playing With Fire6c *6
70Genetix6b *11
71Boiling Point7a *4
72To Fever Pitch7a+ *2
73Becalmed7a+ *3
74Stakk AttakkE2 5c *2
75Geordie Pride7a *7
76DWME1 5c *3
77Peggy's Cove6c 2
78Zeitgeist7a+ *7
79Spirits Rising7b 1
80A Quantum Jump for Apekind7a  
81Dafinko7c * 
82The Calling7a+ *2
83Ocean of ViolenceE3 6a 3
84Absolute Dissent7a+ **3
85Grossville7a **29
86Spacewalk7b ***17
87Joyride E2 6a 1
88Sea RideHVS 5a *23
90Hackney's HammerHVS 5a *23
91SexaphoneE6 6b * 
92Space ThresholdE3 5c *2
93Edward's Effort (re-climbed after rock fall)E1 5b **1
94All Apologies7a+ *9
95Strangled in Black7a *12
96Titter Ye Not Mrs!6b+ **36
97Two Tickets to the Gun Show7a+ *7
98Sargasso HVS 4c 1
99Fat NecrosisE4 6b * 
100Rise of the Robots7b+ **20
101Liquid Steel7c **5
102The Futurist 20027c **3
103Event Horizon8a+ **2
105The Shape of Roofs to Come7b *10
106Ape CrapE2 6a *1
107War of Attrition7c+ * 
108The Incredible Hulk7c **4
109Howling StoneE4 6a **3
110grockles passageVS 4c *8
112Len's Rule of the SeaE3 6a **8
113Crystal VoyagerE3 5c **8
114Ju An Si WeiVS 5a *1
115KangarooS 4b *4
116Original RouteS 3
117Spray FeverE1 5a *2
119Big Brother is Watching7a+ 6
120Guided by Voices7b+ *1
121Edward's EffortVS 4c *11
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
13/08/2012 almost all the routes have new bolts.
Haydn Jones - 13/Aug/12