Fishermans Ledge

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces S

Crag features
A superb and varied area with the best deep water soloing spot in Dorset in Conner Cove. Also has one magnificent cave with several semi-sport roof climbs. Many more great trad routes all with easy access.

Access notes
From the lighthouse walk along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylon. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 300m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top above Helix and Freeborn Man. The various areas require different approaches from here. They are described in detail with each section. Refer also to the map opposite and the photo-topos which have the abseil points marked on them.

It is planned to give this area sound staple belays at some stage since good cliff-top belays are hard to find. There are some stakes and blocks and these are supplemented by (hard-to-spot) drilled threads near the cliff edge at regular intervals.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE FUNKY WALL  
2The Strawberry that Killed the Seal7b **1
3..and Captain Blood's CavernE4 6a ***41
4Davey Jones' Lock-offE5 6a ***37
5DJ Bloods Mariana Variation7b+ *3
6PrivateerE6 6b ***14
7For Whom the Swell TollsE6 6b **6
8FathomsE3 5b ***101
9In too deep6c 8
10Feeding NeptuneE6 6b *5
11Donald, Where's Your TrousersE3 5c *61
12AmazoniaE3 5c **32
13Amazon EmancipationE5 6c * 
14The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic TribesHVS 5a *18
15Ten Thousand SpoonsE2 5c 5
16The Friendly Ranger from Clontarf CastleE2 5c *18
17TelomereE1 5b **27
18The TalismanE6 6a *1
19Gorillas in the MistE3 5c ***12
20Charmed LifeE6 6b **1
 NEW DAWN AREA  
22The SlantE3 5c ** 
23The Friendly Landlord of Durlston CastleE1 5b *3
24Where the Land Meets the SeaE2 5c 1
25When Land Becomes SeaE1 5b **3
26New DawnE6 6b  
27Double 'Ard BastardE4 6b **1
28Just as 'ardE4 6b  
29StuckOnE5 6a  
30SlideshowE7 6c 2
 RUFTY TUFTY AREA (FALLEN DOWN)  
32Break Like a WaveE4 6b * 
33Moving Away from Rufty TuftyE5 6b * 
34Rufty TuftyE4 6b * 
35Rufty Tufty Vivisects His MummyE5 6b * 
36Hallucinating FreelyE6 6b ** 
37End of the InnocenceE4 6b ** 
 ARMED INSURGENCE AREA  
39Tempting TruancyE4 5c **1
40Terminal OneE6 6a * 
41AubergineHVS 5a **22
42Mile High ClubE6 6c * 
43Into You (Like a Train)E5 6b ** 
44Armed InsurgenceE3 5c *2
45PariahE6 6b * 
46A Taste for DangerE3 6a * 
47La QuebradaE3 6a  
48Whack your PorcupineE1 5b 2
49Barry's RouteE1 5c  
50The CaretakerE6 6a * 
51Ruurd RuumE4 5c * 
 CONGER CAVE AREA  
53Leap of FaithE3 5c **4
54TsunamiE4 6a *2
55A Bridge Too FarE1 5b *15
56The John Williams Traversenone 6a *20
 THE CONGER AREA  
58Crime WaveE2 5c 40
59Furious PigE2 5c *50
60The Great Shark HuntE4 6a **42
61The AppearingE5 6a * 
62Red BullyE5 6a * 
63The Vanishing Approach Traverse6c 13
64The VanishingE5 6a ***24
65The CongerE2 5c ***300
66Snap, Crackle and PlopE3 5c 26
67JelliedE3 5c *34
68The Drowning PoolE6 6c **2
69Swordfish TrombonesE5 6b ***10
70The Musharagi TreeE2 5c *24
71Halcyon DaysE2 5b *4
72Herman Borg's Basic Pulley SlippageE6 6b **9
73Freeborn ManE4 6a ***240
74Freeborn BorgE5 6b 4
75Freeborn DirectE4 6a 42
76Troubled WatersHVS 5a *349
 SQUID AREA  
78Helix DirectS 4a **19
79Helix AreteHVS 5a 1
80HelixD **120
81FelixVD **45
82Rough BoysHVS 5b *22
83FAGI 65E3 5c *4
84Bon FiréE1 5c **15
85The Wey of All MenE3 6a * 
86Quo Vadis DirectE2 5c * 
87PaternosterE2 5b *6
88Bad Young BrotherE4 6b ** 
89The RitzE3 6a ***9
90SquidE2 5c **15
91CrackersE3 5c 1
92Mental as AnythingE4 6b * 
93Rock around the Block E2 5c 1
94Rock Around the Block DirectE3 6a * 
95Sting in the TailE4 5c ** 
96Limited EditionE3 5c ***19
 VIGILANTE AREA  
98Aquascrotum IIHVS 5a 3
99Slow Road to RuinE5 6a * 
100VigilanteE6 6b ** 
101Sue's RouteE2 5b *9
102Girl from the Snow CountryE1 5c **13
103All Quiet on the Southern FrontE3 5c *3
 PALACE OF THE BRINE AREA  
105Impending GleamE4 5c **14
106Temple Redneck7c+ ***4
107Haka Pereperu8a ***1
108The Mind CathedralE6 6b ***1
109Lifeforce8b *** 
110Palace of the Brine8a+ ***3
111Drunken Butterfly7c+ ***1
112Paparazzi NewsE6 6b ** 
113Cave RaveE5 6a **7
114The Beautiful and the DamnedE5 6a * 
115D SharpHVS 5a *24
116Test DepartmentE2 5b **23
117Damage CaseE3 5c **16
118CalcitronE2 5b **23
119Stress FractureE3 5c  
120Fishermans PylonHVS 3c 5
 !!! ROUTES LOST TO THE SEA !!!  
122On the Third DayE3 5c * 
123The Garden of Earthly Delights E3 5c *1
124Mayhem on the Terraces E3 6a **2
125Formula 1 E5 6a 1
126Jungle Formula E5 6a 1
127Jet Propulsion E4 6b 1
128Orinocoe E5 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Marti999

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.
ian bryant - 08/May/06