Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

Freefall from the top of Freeborn Man © A. Huddart

Crag features

A superb and varied area with the best deep water soloing spot in Dorset in Conner Cove. Also has one magnificent cave with several semi-sport roof climbs. Many more great trad routes all with easy access.

Approach notes

From the lighthouse walk along the coast path to the stile before the mile marker pylon. Cross the fence and continue along its seaward side for 300m, to where a slight ridge descends to the cliff-top above Helix and Freeborn Man. The various areas require different approaches from here. They are described in detail with each section. Refer also to the map opposite and the photo-topos which have the abseil points marked on them.

It is planned to give this area sound staple belays at some stage since good cliff-top belays are hard to find. There are some stakes and blocks and these are supplemented by (hard-to-spot) drilled threads near the cliff edge at regular intervals.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
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Descend Helix Direct not Helix! Same difficulty, one has rock at the bottom, the other water
trouserburp - 28/Jun/11
Funky Wall: nice little crag if you want to tick a handful of mid grade routes. some of the stuff is a bit eliminate though - it's surprising how small it is when you get there.
ian bryant - 08/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Funky Wall
2The Strawberry that Killed the Seal7b **
3..and Captain Blood's CavernE4 6a ***
4Davey Jones' Lock-offE4 6a ***
5DJ Bloods Mariana Variation7b+ *
6PrivateerE6 6b ***
7For Whom the Swell TollsE6 6b **
8FathomsE3 5b ***
9In too deepE3 6a *
10Feeding NeptuneE6 6b *
11Donald, Where's Your TrousersE2 5c *
12AmazoniaE3 5c **
13Amazon EmancipationE6 6b *
14The Rise and Dear Demise of the Funky Nomadic TribesHVS 5a *
15Ten Thousand SpoonsE2 5c
16The Friendly Ranger from Clontarf CastleE2 5c *
17TelomereE1 5b *
18The TalismanE6 6a *
19Gorillas in the MistE3 5c **
20Charmed LifeE6 6b **
 New Dawn Area
22The SlantE3 5c *
23The Friendly Landlord of Durlston CastleE1 5b *
24Where the Land Meets the SeaE1 5b **
25When Land Becomes SeaE2 5c
26New DawnE6 6b **
27Double 'Ard BastardE4 6b **
28Just as 'ardE4 6b *
29StuckOnE5 6a **
30SlideshowE7 6c ***
 Rufty Tufty Area (Fallen Down)
32Break Like a WaveE4 6b *
33Moving Away from Rufty TuftyE5 6b *
34Rufty TuftyE4 6b *
35Rufty Tufty Vivisects His MummyE5 6b *
36Hallucinating FreelyE6 6b **
37End of the InnocenceE4 6b **
 Armed Insurgence Area
39Tempting TruancyE4 5c **
40Terminal OneE6 6a *
41AubergineHVS 5a **
42Mile High ClubE6 6c *
43Into You (Like a Train)E5 6b **
44Armed InsurgenceE3 5c *
45PariahE6 6b *
46A Taste for DangerE3 6a *
47La QuebradaE3 6a
48Whack your PorcupineE1 5b
49Barry's RouteE1 5c
50The CaretakerE6 6a *
51Ruurd RuumE4 5c *
 Conger Cave Area
53Leap of FaithE3 5c **
54TsunamiE4 6a *
55A Bridge Too FarE1 5b *
56The John Williams Traversenone 6a *
 The Conger Area
58Crime WaveE2 5c *
59Furious PigE2 5c *
60The Great Shark HuntE4 6a ***
61The AppearingE5 6a *
62Red BullyE5 6a *
63The Vanishing Approach Traverse6c
64The VanishingE5 6a ***
65The CongerE2 5c ***
66Snap, Crackle and PlopE3 5c
67JelliedE3 5c *
68The Drowning PoolE6 6b **
69Swordfish TrombonesE5 6b ***
70The Musharagi TreeE2 5c *
71Halcyon DaysE2 5b *
72Herman Borg's Basic Pulley SlippageE6 6b **
73Freeborn ManE4 6a ***
74Freeborn BorgE5 6b
75Freeborn DirectE4 6a
76Troubled WatersHVS 5a **
 Squid Area
78Helix DirectS 4a
79Helix AreteHVS 5a
80HelixD **
81FelixVD **
82Rough BoysHVS 5b *
83FAGI 65E3 5c **
84Bon FiréE1 5c **
85The Wey of All MenE3 6a *
86Quo Vadis DirectE2 5c *
87PaternosterE2 5c *
88Bad Young BrotherE4 6b **
89The RitzE3 6a ***
90SquidE2 5c **
91CrackersE3 5c
92Mental as AnythingE4 6b *
93Rock around the Block
E2 5c
94Rock Around the Block DirectE3 6a *
95Sting in the TailE4 5c **
96Limited EditionE3 5c **
 Vigilante Area
98Aquascrotum IIHVS 5a
99Slow Road to RuinE5 6a *
100VigilanteE6 6b **
101Sue's RouteE2 5b *
102Girl from the Snow CountryE1 5c **
103All Quiet on the Southern FrontE3 5c *
 Palace of the Brine Area
105Impending GleamE4 5c ***
106Temple Redneck7c+ ***
107Haka Pereperu8a ***
108The Mind CathedralE6 6b ***
109Lifeforce8b ***
110Palace of the Brine8a+ ***
111Drunken Butterfly7c+ ***
112Paparazzi NewsE6 6b **
113Cave RaveE5 6a **
114The Beautiful and the DamnedE5 6a *
115D SharpHVS 5a *
116Test DepartmentE2 5b **
117Damage CaseE3 5c **
118CalcitronE2 5b **
119Stress FractureE3 5c
120Fishermans PylonHVS 3c
 !!! Routes Lost to the Sea !!!
122 On the Third DayE3 5c *
123 The Garden of Earthly Delights
E3 5c *
124 Mayhem on the Terraces
E3 6a **
125 Formula 1
E5 6a
126 Jungle Formula
E5 6a
127 Jet Propulsion
E4 6b
128 Orinocoe
E5 6a

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