Dancing Ledge

Climbs 143 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 16m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade do to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE QUARRY - LEFT  
2This Should Move Ya!7a 1
3A Brutal Equation7a *43
4Shinhead Clash6b+ *133
5Idiot Joy Showland6c+ *64
6Sugar Ray7a+ **55
7Names is for Tombstones, Baby7a *30
8Transparent Birthday Suit5c 286
9Commander Cody and the Lost Planet AirmenE1 5c 17
10Ideal World6a+ *167
11Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues6b *111
12Ozark Mountain Daredevils6a+ *220
13B4 Destruction6b+ *84
14Date with a Frog6a *358
15Fear of a Black Planet7a *46
16Today Forever7a+ *12
 THE QUARRY - BOULDERING  
18Birth, School, Work, DeathV4 10
19More Brutalf6C  
20Freedancef7A+ **20
21A Brutal Equation Startf6B+ **7
22A Brutal Skinheadf6B+ *1
23Skinhead Clash Startf4+ *1
24Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiotf6C **1
25Idiot Joy Showland Startf6B+ *8
26Sugar Ray Startf6A *8
27Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Startf5+ *1
28Juggy Traversef6A * 
29Monorailf7A * 
 THE QUARRY - CENTRE  
31Chicago Pipe Dreaming6a *275
32Borra Ring5c *423
33Perpetual State of Confusion6b+ *100
34Hiccup6c 30
35Empty Promises6a 228
36All Fall Down6a+ *250
37Carol's Little Injection6a 211
38Slopin' and Hopin'6b+ **118
39Mr. Choo Choo7a **118
40Seven Year's Solitary7a+ *21
41Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion7b *19
42Disco's Out, Murder's In6c+ *48
43Daylight Robbery6c **103
44Double or Quits7a+ **50
45Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven6b+ **303
46The Honey Monster6c 25
47The War of the Wardens5c 251
 THE QUARRY - RIGHT  
49Negative Creep6b+ *69
50Slap, Bang on a Hang6c 43
51Corona Envelope7b+ *16
52Corona Connection7b+ *2
53Prophets of Rage7b **75
54Haunted by a Million Screams6c+ **89
55The Ghost of Ian Curtis7c+ * 
56Atrocity Exhibition7a+ *32
57The Wonders of Wallkraft7a **64
58Fat Chance Hotel7b+ **21
59Day of the Lords7a 9
60Ken Wilson's Last Stand7a *38
61Minimum Maximum7b+ *1
62With or Without You6a+ *113
63Cold Steal6b 46
64John Craven's Willy Warmer5c *344
65Taylor-made Tracking Damage6c+ 53
66Alienation7a 7
67A Sea Without Water6c *23
68Option B6c+ 9
69Eye am the Sky7a+ *3
 GRAVEYARD AREA  
71Here Comes the Hezbollah6b+ 14
72F.Y.B.6c *9
73Lucretia, My Reflection6c **13
74The Pump Will Tear Us Apart7a+ **3
75Mariner's Graveyard7a+ ***13
76Corridors of Power7a+ *2
 BUST YA BOILER  
78Slave to the Cave7b ***7
79Hell's Darker Chambers7c+ ***1
80Legendary Shadows7c+ **1
81Bust Ya' Boiler7b+ **3
82Mucho Gusto!7b *3
83Hard Act to Follow6c *11
84Dancing Fool7a *8
85Mariana's Trenchcoat6b+ *13
86Coprophobia6b+ *13
87First Roped ClimbD 27
88BetaVD 29
89Second BestVS 26
90BlimeyVS 28
 LOWER TIER - LEFT - BOULDERING  
92Crumpf5+ *1
93Memphis Jookinf6A *1
94Krumpingf6B+ **1
95Harlem Shakef6B+ **1
96C-Walkf6B **2
97Snap Dancef5+ *2
98Lockingf5 *3
99Poppingf5 *3
100Breakingf4+ *2
101Liquids and Digitsf3 *3
102G-Walkf4 *3
 MEXICAN WAVE AREA  
104Mexican Wave Traversef5+ * 
105Whipping Boy7a 37
106Seismic Shift7b+ ***2
107Mexican Wave7a+ *56
108Metachronal Rhythm7a+ **3
109Armed and Dangerous7b+ 8
110A Short Story About Power7b *33
111Circus Beach7b+ *3
112The Ringmaster7c **1
113One Finger Trapeze7c+ * 
 LOWER TIER - RIGHT - BOULDERING  
115Juggy Traversef4+ **1
116Weightlessf7A+ ** 
117Ceilidhf5+ *2
118Fandangof6A 2
119Pasodoblef5+ 1
120Minuetf6A *2
121Polkaf5 1
122Humppaf5+ *3
123Troikaf4+ 3
124Bhangraf4 3
125Tarantellaf4+ 1
126Jenkkaf5 1
127Schuhplattlerf6A *2
128Low Lip Traversef6B+ *2
129Clogf6A *2
130Morrisf3 3
131Sardanaf5+ *2
132Chacareraf6A *2
133Carnavalitof6B 2
134Last Dancef6A+ *2
 HIERONYMOUS GBH AREA  
136Now and Always6c+ **9
137Lover's Leap7a+ *3
138Born Again6b+ **70
139Hieronymous GBH6c+ **17
140Dante's Inferno7a+ *4
141Sea of Holes6b *4
142Song to the Siren7a+ ** 
143White Rave7a+ ***2
144Ten-K-RigE4 6a  
 UNSORTED ROUTES  
146Absent FriendE4 6b 2
147Mr. Fantastic4c S0 2
148Rock Eating BirdieE1 5b **1
149Piss TraverseXS *3
150Indian Rope Trick7b+ * 
151AlphaS 5
152West CornerS 2
153Whittlin' on a piece of wood7a * 
154Harmonica7a * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13