Climbs 147
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade do to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Quarry - Left 
2This Should Move Ya!7a 1
3A Brutal Equation7a *56
4Shinhead Clash6b+ *146
5Idiot Joy Showland6c+ *68
6Sugar Ray7a+ **69
7Names is for Tombstones, Baby7a *35
8Looking in traffic6a 11
9Smut & Violence6a 9
10Custodian6a+ 9
11Transparent Birthday Suit5c 331
12Commander Cody and the Lost Planet AirmenE1 5c 17
13Ideal World6a+ *192
14Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues6b *127
15Ozark Mountain Daredevils6a+ *256
16Rock Eating BirdieE1 5b **2
17The Trade Route5a 19
18B4 Destruction6b+ *103
19Date with a Frog6a *416
20Indian Rope Trick7b+ * 
21Fear of a Black Planet7a *53
22Today Forever7a+ *18
 The Quarry - Bouldering 
24Birth, School, Work, Death
-
V4 10
25More Brutalf6C 1
26Freedancef7A+ **23
27A Brutal Equation Startf6B+ **7
28A Brutal Skinheadf6B+ *3
29Skinhead Clash Startf4+ *6
30Stuck Between a Skinhead and an Idiotf6C **2
31Idiot Joy Showland Startf6B+ *9
32Sugar Ray Startf6A *9
33Names is for Tombstones, Baby Direct Startf5+ *6
34Juggy Traversef6A *3
35Monorailf7A *1
 The Quarry - Centre 
37Chicago Pipe Dreaming6a *325
38Borra Ring5c *491
39Perpetual State of Confusion6b+ *118
40Hiccup6c 36
41Empty Promises6a 270
42All Fall Down6a+ *301
43Carol's Little Injection6a 256
44Slopin' and Hopin'6b+ **145
45Whittlin' on a piece of wood7a *3
46Mr. Choo Choo7a **157
47Harmonica7a *2
48Seven Year's Solitary7a+ *23
49Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion7b *20
50Disco's Out, Murder's In6c+ *51
51Daylight Robbery6c **121
52Double or Quits7a+ **65
53Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven6b+ **352
107Harlem Shakef6B+ **3
108C-Walkf6B **5
109Snap Dancef5+ *6
110Lockingf5 *7
111Poppingf5 *7
112Breakingf4+ *6
113Liquids and Digitsf3 *9
114G-Walkf4 *7
 Mexican Wave Area 
116Mexican Wave Traversef5+ *4
117Whipping Boy7a 41
118Seismic Shift7b+ ***2
119Mexican Wave7a+ *74
120Metachronal Rhythm7a+ **3
121Armed and Dangerous7b+ 8
122A Short Story About Power7b *33
123Circus Beach7b+ *3
124The Ringmaster7c **1
125One Finger Trapeze7c+ * 
 Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering 
127Juggy Traversef4+ **4
128Weightlessf7A+ **1
129Ceilidhf5+ *3
130Fandangof6A 3
131Pasodoblef5+ 4
132Minuetf6A *4
133Polkaf5 4
134Humppaf5+ *5
135Troikaf4+ 5
136Bhangraf4 7
137Tarantellaf4+ 4
138Jenkkaf5 4
139Schuhplattlerf6A *4
140Low Lip Traversef6B+ *4
141Clogf6A *4
142Morrisf3 8
143Sardanaf5+ *4
144Chacareraf6A *4
145Carnavalitof6B 4
146Last Dancef6A+ *4
 Hieronymous GBH Area 
148Now and Always6c+ **11
149Lover's Leap7a+ *4
150Born Again6b+ **89
151Hieronymous GBH6c+ 18
152Dante's Inferno7a+ *4
153Sea of Holes6b *4
154Song to the Siren7a+ ** 
155White Rave7a+ ***2
156Ten-K-RigE4 6a  
157Absent FriendE4 6b 2

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