Dancing Ledge

Climbs 102 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 16m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade do to the polished holds.

Access notes
Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE QUARRY - LEFT  
2Birth, School, Work, DeathV4 9
3This Should Move Ya!7a 1
4FreedanceV7 19
5A Brutal Equation7a *38
6Shinhead Clash6b+ *120
7Idiot Joy Showland6c+ *58
8Sugar Ray7a **47
9Names is for Tombstones, Baby7a *28
10Transparent Birthday Suit5c 267
11Commander Cody and the Lost Planet AirmenE1 5c 15
12Ideal World6a+ *145
13Squalid Walid and the Druze Blues6b *97
14Ozark Mountain Daredevils6a+ **185
15B4 Destruction6c *61
16Date with a Frog6a *328
17Fear of a Black Planet7a *37
18Today Forever7a+ *10
 THE QUARRY - CENTRE  
20Chicago Pipe Dreaming6a *256
21Borra Ring5c *391
22Perpetual State of Confusion6b *90
23Hiccup6c 21
24Empty Promises6a 194
25All Fall Down6a+ *223
26Carol's Little Injection6a 184
27Slopin' and Hopin'6b+ **91
28Mr. Choo Choo7a **99
29Seven Year's Solitary7a+ 21
30Figure at the Base of a Crucifixion7b *14
31Disco's Out, Murder's In6c+ *47
32Daylight Robbery6c *94
33Double or Quits7a+ *44
34Rambling Moses Weetabix and the Secona Park Seven6b+ **267
35The Honey Monster6c 25
36The War of the Wardens5c 242
 THE QUARRY - RIGHT  
38Negative Creep6b+ *59
39Slap, Bang on a Hang6c 40
40Corona Envelope7b+ *14
41Corona Connection7b+ *2
42Prophets of Rage7b **65
43Haunted by a Million Screams6c+ **74
44The Ghost of Ian Curtis7c+ * 
45Atrocity Exhibition7a+ *23
46The Wonders of Wallkraft7a **57
47Fat Chance Hotel7b+ **17
48Day of the Lords7a 9
49Ken Wilson's Last Stand7a *36
50Minimum Maximum7b+ 1
51With or Without You6a+ 91
52Cold Steal6b 42
53John Craven's Willy Warmer5c *317
54Taylor-made Tracking Damage6c+ 50
55Alienation7a 6
56A Sea Without Water6c *21
57Option B6c+ 8
58Eye am the Sky7a+ *3
 GRAVEYARD AREA  
60Here Comes the Hezbollah6b+ 13
61F.Y.B.6c *9
62Lucretia, My Reflection6c **14
63The Pump Will Tear Us Apart7a+ **3
64Mariner's Graveyard7a+ ***12
65Corridors of Power7a+ *2
 BUST YA BOILER  
67Slave to the Cave7b ***7
68Hell's Darker Chambers8a ***1
69Legendary Shadows7c **1
70Bust Ya' Boiler7b+ **3
71Mucho Gusto!7b *3
72Hard Act to Follow6c *10
73Dancing Fool7a *8
74Mariana's Trenchcoat6b+ 11
75Coprophobia6b+ *11
76First Roped ClimbD 24
77BetaVD 27
78Second BestVS 25
79BlimeyVS 26
 MEXICAN WAVE AREA  
81Whipping Boy7a 32
82Seismic Shift7b+ *** 
83Mexican Wave7a+ *50
84Metachronal Rhythm7a+ **2
85Armed and Dangerous7b+ 8
86A Short Story About Power7b *30
87Circus Beach7b+ *3
88The Ringmaster7c **1
89One Finger Trapeze7c+ * 
 HIERONYMOUS GBH AREA  
91Now and Always6c+ *7
92Lover's Leap7a+ *3
93Born Again6b+ **62
94Hieronymous GBH6c+ **16
95Dante's Inferno7a *4
96Sea of Holes6b *4
97Song to the Siren7a+ ** 
98White Rave7a+ ***2
99Ten-K-RigE4 6a  
 UNSORTED ROUTES  
101Absent FriendE4 6b 2
102Sugar Ray Boulder Problem - V3V3 6
103Idiot Joy Showland Boulder Problem - V4V4 6
104Brutal Equation Boulder Problem - V5V5 5
105Mr. Fantastic4c 2
106Rock Eating Birdie *E1 5b **1
107Piss Traverse *XS *2
108Indian Rope Trick *7b+ * 
109Alpha *S 2
110West Corner *S  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13