Climbs 143
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 16m a.s.l
Faces S

Sunrise at Dancing Ledge, Swanage © welshdragon

Crag features

The most popular cliff at Swanage. A sport climbing quarry and some steeper routes on the sea-level roofs. Easy access and non-tidal. Often busy and popular with beginners. Some bouldering areas. Much of the crag is polished and several 5s and 6s are a higher grade do to the polished holds.

Approach notes

Dancing Ledge is approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path. From here steps lead down into the quarry.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
Please note that there are seasonal bird restrictions on routes right of Dante's Inferno (i.e. Sea of Holes, Song to the Siren, White Rave and Ten K Rig) - no climbing from 31st March to 31st July.
steve taylor - 07/Feb/13
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Climbs at this crag

 The Quarry - Right 
53Negative Creep6b+ *71
54Slap, Bang on a Hang6c 46
55Corona Envelope7b+ *21
56Corona Connection7b+ *2
57Prophets of Rage7b **85
58Haunted by a Million Screams6c+ **102
59The Ghost of Ian Curtis7c+ * 
60Atrocity Exhibition7a+ *34
61The Wonders of Wallkraft7a **76
62Fat Chance Hotel7b+ **29
63Day of the Lords7a 9
64Ken Wilson's Last Stand7a *40
65Minimum Maximum7b+ *1
66With or Without You6a+ *117
67Cold Steal6b 50
68John Craven's Willy Warmer5c *357
69Taylor-made Tracking Damage6c+ 55
70Alienation7a 8
71A Sea Without Water6c *23
72Option B6c+ 11
73Eye am the Sky7a+ *5
 Graveyard Area 
75Mr. Fantastic4c S0 2
76Here Comes the Hezbollah6b+ 14
77F.Y.B.6c *9
78Lucretia, My Reflection6c **13
79The Pump Will Tear Us Apart7a+ **3
80Mariner's Graveyard7a+ ***13
81Corridors of Power7a+ *2
 Bust Ya Boiler 
83Slave to the Cave7b ***7
84Hell's Darker Chambers7c+ ***1
85Legendary Shadows7c+ **1
86Bust Ya' Boiler7b+ **3
87Mucho Gusto!7b *3
88Hard Act to Follow6c *13
89Dancing Fool7a *8
90Mariana's Trenchcoat6b+ *15
91Coprophobia6b+ *14
92Piss TraverseXS *3
93First Roped Climb
D 27
VD 29
95Second Best
VS 26
VS 28
97West CornerS 2
98AlphaS 5
 Lower Tier - Left - Bouldering 
100Crumpf5+ *2
101Memphis Jookinf6A *2
102Krumpingf6B+ **1
103Harlem Shakef6B+ **1
104C-Walkf6B **3
105Snap Dancef5+ *3
106Lockingf5 *4
107Poppingf5 *4
108Breakingf4+ *2
109Liquids and Digitsf3 *3
110G-Walkf4 *3
 Mexican Wave Area 
112Mexican Wave Traversef5+ * 
113Whipping Boy7a 39
114Seismic Shift7b+ ***2
115Mexican Wave7a+ *64
116Metachronal Rhythm7a+ **3
117Armed and Dangerous7b+ 8
118A Short Story About Power7b *39
119Circus Beach7b+ *3
120The Ringmaster7c **1
121One Finger Trapeze7c+ * 
 Lower Tier - Right - Bouldering 
123Juggy Traversef4+ **1
124Weightlessf7A+ ** 
125Ceilidhf5+ *2
126Fandangof6A 2
127Pasodoblef5+ 2
128Minuetf6A *2
129Polkaf5 2
130Humppaf5+ *3
131Troikaf4+ 3
132Bhangraf4 4
133Tarantellaf4+ 2
134Jenkkaf5 2
135Schuhplattlerf6A *2
136Low Lip Traversef6B+ *2
137Clogf6A *2
138Morrisf3 4
139Sardanaf5+ *2
140Chacareraf6A *2
141Carnavalitof6B 2
142Last Dancef6A+ *2
 Hieronymous GBH Area 
144Now and Always6c+ **10
145Lover's Leap7a+ *3
146Born Again6b+ **78
147Hieronymous GBH6c+ **18
148Dante's Inferno7a+ *4
149Sea of Holes6b *4
150Song to the Siren7a+ ** 
151White Rave7a+ ***2
152Ten-K-RigE4 6a  
153Absent FriendE4 6b 2

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