Hedbury

Climbs 77 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A sheltered sport quarry which is quieter than the nearby Dancing Ledge. Contrasts dramatically with the two most adventurous cliffs at Swanage situated just around the corner. Big hard routes which are mostly unrepeated. Bird ban March 1 to July 31 because of nesting birds on Hedbury Big Cove and Smokey Hole

Access notes
The Hedbury crags are all approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path.

For Hedbury Quarry and Big Cove (Left) - Once at the coast path, above Dancing Ledge, turn right (looking out) and follow it for 800m over a gentle hill. At a stile drop down a ridge path on the left into a huge open cast quarry with a large cannon in its base. The quarry routes are on the wall on the left (looking out). To gain Hedbury Big Cove drop down some rock steps to gain a sea level ledge that leads left (looking out) into a cave.

For Big Cove (Right) and Smokey Hole - The cliff-top quarry is situated 50m further on from the open-cast Topmast Quarry, which in turn is 300m further on from Dancing Ledge. The descent path is below some planks on the coast path that cross a dry stream bed. The four routes are gained by an abseil (no stake currently in place but there are plans to place one) from a point 10m left (looking out) of the descent to the hidden quarry. The abseil leads down Diving for Pearls.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
43Another Contribution2 *
44Moral Flexibility5a *
45Sea View3 *
 THE BIG COVE 
47East Milton WallVS 5a
48BilboHS
49BillyS
50Under the Sky, Above the SeaE5 6b *
51Sheffield Uber AllesE6 6b **
52The Jesus LizardE6 6b **
53Once in the JungleE6 6b **
54Nowhere to RunE6 6b ***
55The Fabulous Professor PanicE5 6a **
56FigureheadE2 5b *
 SMOKEY HOLE 
58Slow DiveE6 6b *
59Diving for PearlsE6 6b **
60Vapour TrailE7 6b ***
61Rocket USAE7 6b **
 TOPMAST QUARRY 
63Bar Code7b *
64Bar King Mad7a+ *
65Isobar7a
 UNSORTED ROUTES 
67Under CarolineS
68RosemaryVS 4c
69Marvellous Mags (DWS)6a+ **
70Zircon (DWS)6a+ **
71Jargoniser (DWS) *6a+ *
72Aquamarine5a **
73What a Mitty6a
74Bivvy cave crack *V5 *
75The Balrog *VS 5a
76Epidemic *HS 4b
77Waiting for the Death Blow *E2 5b
78Pale Rider *HVS 5a/b
79Rawhide *S 4a
 MIKE'S CORNER 
81Flying Pigs6c *
82Cheese Balls!5c
83Gemzone (DWS) *6b+
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
not abit little sport crag.. jumping the gun is the gem.. don's long gone is also worth doing.. a few easer routes towards the seaward end of the cliff have been added.. including britains one and only F1!
rustaldo - 25/Mar/11
Only worth visiting for the following reasons: -Getting something to do their first outdoor lead and get familiar with threading the anchor bolts and cleaning a route. -If you have climbed every other sport route in Swanage area an extremely limiting number of climbs of any interest. Something the crag list does not say is that at least 6 routes are in a water fall for all but a few days per year!
alx - 22/Mar/09
Does anyone have any information about the 4 or 5 easier new routes that have appeared toward the seaward side of the quarry? I'm not sure how long they've been there as I hadn't been down to headbury for a while.
ColinK - 04/Sep/04
Sea cliffs to the west offer some good trad climbs- blood gully, bilbo, billy and east milton wall - good for new lead climbers who cant abide the crush of subluminal!
Martin torbett - 06/Aug/03
Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02
Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02