View larger mapGrid Ref SY 992767 (OS Landranger #195)

Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 13/Jul/2007



Climbs 77 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A sheltered sport quarry which is quieter than the nearby Dancing Ledge. Contrasts dramatically with the two most adventurous cliffs at Swanage situated just around the corner. Big hard routes which are mostly unrepeated. Bird ban March 1 to July 31 because of nesting birds on Hedbury Big Cove and Smokey Hole

Access notes
The Hedbury crags are all approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path.

For Hedbury Quarry and Big Cove (Left) - Once at the coast path, above Dancing Ledge, turn right (looking out) and follow it for 800m over a gentle hill. At a stile drop down a ridge path on the left into a huge open cast quarry with a large cannon in its base. The quarry routes are on the wall on the left (looking out). To gain Hedbury Big Cove drop down some rock steps to gain a sea level ledge that leads left (looking out) into a cave.

For Big Cove (Right) and Smokey Hole - The cliff-top quarry is situated 50m further on from the open-cast Topmast Quarry, which in turn is 300m further on from Dancing Ledge. The descent path is below some planks on the coast path that cross a dry stream bed. The four routes are gained by an abseil (no stake currently in place but there are plans to place one) from a point 10m left (looking out) of the descent to the hidden quarry. The abseil leads down Diving for Pearls.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.7mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
10 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
23 kph

3.9mm rain
14 °C
33 kph

0.2mm rain
16 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Dorset (2012), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Spaghetti WesternA1 7
2Benny's ApprenticeA1 6
3JudyS 4a *23
4WhotnotS 15
5Rear EntryD 20
6Pete's CornerHS 4a/b 53
7Blood GullyHS 4b 32
8Blood TiesVS 8
9DegradationVS 7
10CarolineS 25
11GwenVS 4
12The Good, the Bad and the UglyS 4a 9
13TightropeHS 9
14Rising Bubbles *E1 5b **1
15Finger Lickin Good *E2 5c **1
16Tethered by Gravity4c *842
17Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus5c 627
18Ammonitemare6a+ *376
19Of Mice and Men6b *209
20Bad Day6c *58
21One More Cheese Sarnie6c 61
22Moves for the Masses6a+ *444
23Hangs Like a Dead Man6c **142
24Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool7a+ *19
25Jumping the Gun6b **171
26Mouth Breather7c *2
27Sureshot6c **54
28Sexy Beast7a *41
29Alice In Pumpland7a *27
30Cinderella's Big Score7c **14
31It Can't be Denied7b *43
32Dry Time Climb4c 110
33Bop Ceroc6c 77
34Glue Crux Clan6c *41
35Produced by Fred Quimby6b *101
36Strange Devices4a 19
37Don's Long Gone6b+ *93
38Mindless Optimism6b+ *98
39New Age, New Style5c *636
40Missed it *VS 4b *1
 Climb nameGradex
41Very Ordinary Route2 *571
42Another Contribution2 *573
43Moral Flexibility5a *719
44Sea View3 *738
46East Milton WallVS 5a 10
47BilboHS 25
48BillyS 29
49Under the Sky, Above the SeaE5 6b * 
50Sheffield Uber AllesE6 6b ** 
51The Jesus LizardE6 6b ** 
52Once in the JungleE6 6b ** 
53Nowhere to RunE6 6b ***1
54The Fabulous Professor PanicE5 6a **6
55FigureheadE2 5b *13
56Slow DiveE6 6b * 
57Diving for PearlsE6 6b ** 
58Vapour TrailE7 6b *** 
59Rocket USAE7 6b ** 
60Bar Code7b *1
61Bar King Mad7a+ *1
62Isobar7a 3
63Under CarolineS 2
64RosemaryVS 4c 3
65Marvellous Mags (DWS)6a+ **3
66Zircon (DWS)6a+ **4
67Jargoniser (DWS) *6a+ *3
68Aquamarine5a **1
69What a Mitty6a 10
70Bivvy cave crack *V5 * 
71The Balrog *VS 5a 1
72Epidemic *HS 4b 1
73Waiting for the Death Blow *E2 5b 1
74Pale Rider *HVS 5a/b 1
75Rawhide *S 4a 1
77Flying Pigs6c *5
78Cheese Balls!5c 15
79Gemzone (DWS) *6b+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Advertise here
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
not abit little sport crag.. jumping the gun is the gem.. don's long gone is also worth doing.. a few easer routes towards the seaward end of the cliff have been added.. including britains one and only F1!
rustaldo - 25/Mar/11

Only worth visiting for the following reasons: -Getting something to do their first outdoor lead and get familiar with threading the anchor bolts and cleaning a route. -If you have climbed every other sport route in Swanage area an extremely limiting number of climbs of any interest. Something the crag list does not say is that at least 6 routes are in a water fall for all but a few days per year!
alx - 22/Mar/09

Does anyone have any information about the 4 or 5 easier new routes that have appeared toward the seaward side of the quarry? I'm not sure how long they've been there as I hadn't been down to headbury for a while.
ColinK - 04/Sep/04

Sea cliffs to the west offer some good trad climbs- blood gully, bilbo, billy and east milton wall - good for new lead climbers who cant abide the crush of subluminal!
Martin torbett - 06/Aug/03

Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02

Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02