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These details were last updated on 13/Jul/2007

Hedbury

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 68 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A sheltered sport quarry which is quieter than the nearby Dancing Ledge. Contrasts dramatically with the two most adventurous cliffs at Swanage situated just around the corner. Big hard routes which are mostly unrepeated. Bird ban March 1 to July 31 because of nesting birds on Hedbury Big Cove and Smokey Hole

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Spaghetti WesternA1 7
2Benny's ApprenticeA1 6
3JudyS 4a *18
4WhotnotS 13
5Rear EntryD 17
6Pete's CornerHS 4a/b 48
7Blood GullyHS 4b 30
8Blood TiesVS 6
9DegradationVS 7
10CarolineS 23
11GwenVS 3
12The Good, the Bad and the UglyS 4a 8
13TightropeHS 8
14Tethered by Gravity4+ *707
15Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus5+ 526
16Ammonitemare6a+ *318
17Of Mice and Men6b *168
18Bad Day6c *49
19One More Cheese Sarnie6c 51
20Moves for the Masses6a+ *365
21Hangs Like a Dead Man6c **114
22Under Starters Orders/Realm of Radical Cool7a+ *18
23Jumping the Gun6b **150
24Mouth Breather7c *2
25Sureshot6c **42
26Sexy Beast7a *34
27Alice In Pumpland7a *18
28Cinderella's Big Score7c **12
29It Can't be Denied7b *27
30Dry Time Climb4+ 60
31Bop Ceroc6c 57
32Glue Crux Clan6c *38
33Produced by Fred Quimby6b *91
34Strange Devices4 12
 Climb nameGradex
35Don's Long Gone6b+ *78
36Mindless Optimism6b+ *85
37New Age, New Style5+ *531
38Very Ordinary Route2 *474
39Another Contribution2 *478
40Moral Flexibility5 *604
41Sea View3 *616
42GaryS 4a 3
43East Milton WallVS 5a 9
44BilboHS 22
45BillyS 26
46Under the Sky, Above the SeaE5 6b * 
47Sheffield Uber AllesE6 6b ** 
48The Jesus LizardE6 6b ** 
49Once in the JungleE6 6b ** 
50Nowhere to RunE6 6b ***1
51The Fabulous Professor PanicE5 6a **4
52FigureheadE2 5b *4
53Slow DiveE6 6b * 
54Diving for PearlsE6 6b ** 
55Vapour TrailE7 6b *** 
56Rocket USAE7 6b ** 
57Bar Code7b * 
58Bar King Mad7a+ * 
59Isobar7a 1
60Under CarolineS 2
61RosemaryVS 4c 2
62Marvellous Mags (DWS) *6a+ **1
63Zircon (DWS) *6a+ **1
64Jargoniser (DWS) *6a+ *1
65Aquamarine *5 ** 
66What a Mitty *6a 4
67Flying Pigs *6c *2
68Cheese Balls! *5+ 4

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
The Hedbury crags are all approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path.

For Hedbury Quarry and Big Cove (Left) - Once at the coast path, above Dancing Ledge, turn right (looking out) and follow it for 800m over a gentle hill. At a stile drop down a ridge path on the left into a huge open cast quarry with a large cannon in its base. The quarry routes are on the wall on the left (looking out). To gain Hedbury Big Cove drop down some rock steps to gain a sea level ledge that leads left (looking out) into a cave.

For Big Cove (Right) and Smokey Hole - The cliff-top quarry is situated 50m further on from the open-cast Topmast Quarry, which in turn is 300m further on from Dancing Ledge. The descent path is below some planks on the coast path that cross a dry stream bed. The four routes are gained by an abseil (no stake currently in place but there are plans to place one) from a point 10m left (looking out) of the descent to the hidden quarry. The abseil leads down Diving for Pearls.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
not abit little sport crag.. jumping the gun is the gem.. don's long gone is also worth doing.. a few easer routes towards the seaward end of the cliff have been added.. including britains one and only F1!
rustaldo ? - 25/Mar/11

Only worth visiting for the following reasons: -Getting something to do their first outdoor lead and get familiar with threading the anchor bolts and cleaning a route. -If you have climbed every other sport route in Swanage area an extremely limiting number of climbs of any interest. Something the crag list does not say is that at least 6 routes are in a water fall for all but a few days per year!
alx ? - 22/Mar/09

Does anyone have any information about the 4 or 5 easier new routes that have appeared toward the seaward side of the quarry? I'm not sure how long they've been there as I hadn't been down to headbury for a while.
ColinK - 04/Sep/04

Sea cliffs to the west offer some good trad climbs- blood gully, bilbo, billy and east milton wall - good for new lead climbers who cant abide the crush of subluminal!
Martin torbett - 06/Aug/03

Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02

Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02