Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Jumping the gun © Phil Belcher

Crag features

A sheltered sport quarry which is quieter than the nearby Dancing Ledge. Contrasts dramatically with the two most adventurous cliffs at Swanage situated just around the corner. Big hard routes which are mostly unrepeated. Bird ban March 1 to July 31 because of nesting birds on Hedbury Big Cove and Smokey Hole

Approach notes

The Hedbury crags are all approached from Langton Matravers. To reach the parking spot, turn off the A351 towards Langton Matravers, just outside Swanage town. Once in the village, go past the post office and turn left into Durnford Drove. The free car park is 300m down here by Langton House. From the parking walk south on a good path past four fields and a spyway barn. After the 4th field head down a big hill towards Dancing Ledge which lies directly below the coast path.

For Hedbury Quarry and Big Cove (Left) - Once at the coast path, above Dancing Ledge, turn right (looking out) and follow it for 800m over a gentle hill. At a stile drop down a ridge path on the left into a huge open cast quarry with a large cannon in its base. The quarry routes are on the wall on the left (looking out). To gain Hedbury Big Cove drop down some rock steps to gain a sea level ledge that leads left (looking out) into a cave.

For Big Cove (Right) and Smokey Hole - The cliff-top quarry is situated 50m further on from the open-cast Topmast Quarry, which in turn is 300m further on from Dancing Ledge. The descent path is below some planks on the coast path that cross a dry stream bed. The four routes are gained by an abseil (no stake currently in place but there are plans to place one) from a point 10m left (looking out) of the descent to the hidden quarry. The abseil leads down Diving for Pearls.

Access Advice

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
not abit little sport crag.. jumping the gun is the gem.. don's long gone is also worth doing.. a few easer routes towards the seaward end of the cliff have been added.. including britains one and only F1!
rustaldo - 25/Mar/11
Only worth visiting for the following reasons: -Getting something to do their first outdoor lead and get familiar with threading the anchor bolts and cleaning a route. -If you have climbed every other sport route in Swanage area an extremely limiting number of climbs of any interest. Something the crag list does not say is that at least 6 routes are in a water fall for all but a few days per year!
alx - 22/Mar/09
Does anyone have any information about the 4 or 5 easier new routes that have appeared toward the seaward side of the quarry? I'm not sure how long they've been there as I hadn't been down to headbury for a while.
ColinK - 04/Sep/04
Sea cliffs to the west offer some good trad climbs- blood gully, bilbo, billy and east milton wall - good for new lead climbers who cant abide the crush of subluminal!
Martin torbett - 06/Aug/03
Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02
Its ok, probably marginally more pleasant than Dancing Ledge but suffers from the same problem as all the Swanage sport quarries, too much like the Peak quarries, polished and not comparable to Portland. Swanage's best climbing is its trad, if you want sport go to Portland.
Al Evans - 06/Oct/02
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Climbs at this crag

29Jumping the Gun6b **216
30Mouth Breather7c *4
31Sureshot6c **69
32Sexy Beast7a *53
33Alice In Pumpland7a *27
34Cinderella's Big Score7c **18
35It Can't be Denied7b **55
36Dry Time Climb4c 157
37Bop Ceroc6b+ *106
38Glue Crux Clan6c *52
39Produced by Fred Quimby6b+ *122
40Strange Devices4a 37
41Don's Long Gone6b+ *113
42Mindless Optimism6b+ *122
43New Age, New Style5c *737
44Missed itVS 4b *1
45Very Ordinary Route1 *680
46Another Contribution2 *679
47Moral Flexibility5a *845
48Sea View3 *865
 The Big Cove 
50East Milton Wall
-
VS 5a 13
51Bilbo
-
HS 27
52BillyS 31
53Under the Sky, Above the SeaE5 6b * 
54Sheffield Uber AllesE6 6b ** 
55The Jesus LizardE6 6b ** 
56Once in the JungleE6 6b ** 
57Nowhere to RunE6 6b ***1
58The Fabulous Professor PanicE5 6a **6
59FigureheadE2 5b *14
 Smokey Hole 
61Slow DiveE6 6b * 
62Diving for PearlsE6 6b ** 
63Vapour TrailE7 6b *** 
64Rocket USAE6 6b ** 
65Aquamarine5a S2 **1
66Marvellous Mags (DWS)6a+ S1 **3
67Zircon (DWS)6a+ S1 **4
68Gemzone (DWS)6b+ S0 1
69Jargoniser (DWS)6a+ S1 *3
 Topmast Quarry 
71Bar Code7b *1
72Bar King Mad7a+ *1
73Isobar7a 4
74Bar None6c 2
 Mike's Corner 
76What a Mitty6a 12
77Flying Pigs6c *7
78Cheese Balls!5c 17
 Unsorted routes 
80The Balrog
-
VS 5a 1
81Epidemic
-
HS 4b 1
82Waiting for the Death Blow
-
E2 5b 2
83Pale Rider
-
HVS 5a/b 2
84Rawhide
-
S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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