Climbs 171
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

anyone for trad © tscoobydoo

Crag features

A sport climbing quarry with many great technical wall climbs. Sheltered from the wind and with easy access.

Approach notes

Winspit Quarry is situated 1.5km south of Worth Matravers and is reached by a pleasant stroll down a picturesque valley. Park in the main car park, which is situated on the right as you enter the village. The approach path starts down a lane below the village pond.

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
It looks like there has been a substantial collapse of the sea cliffs towards the route Tetris in the Far East Area. Take extra care if heading down that way.
Felix Ottey - 12/Jun/16
The cave on quarryman’s wall at Winspit has been turned into a toilet, complete with in-situ bog roll. THIS IS NOT ON. Climbers are the main users of this part of the quarry. There is a toilet in the car park at Worth Maltravers and plenty of countryside very close by where you could bury your shit if you really can't wait.
duncan - 28/Oct/13
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I wouldn't describe it as "a superb venue" - the rock was of dubious quality and the routes were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
We climbed here as a fallback venue as the sea was too rough to climb on the cliffs. I'm not sure I'd describe it as a "superb venue" - the rock is of dubious quality and the routes we did were good but not fantastic.
Andrew Barker - 14/Sep/10
A superb venue, with a good variety of routes, Quarrymans Wall is a good spot to catch the sun early in the day then move round to the east facing side later in the day to catch the sun. Post Coital Snooze has a lovely crux move. There is also lots of rocks to jump off into the sea and cool off during the summer sun. Highly recommended. Fact: The original Doctor Who was filmed there.
mammal - 02/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Quarry 
2Warm Love6a *249
3The Skin Room7a+ 6
4Think About It6a+ *269
5Things That Make You Go Hmmmm...6c *71
6Restless Heart6b+ **139
7Any Old Time6b *159
8Bread Knife4a *578
9Post-coital Snooze6a+ *349
10Iron Bar5a *653
11A Different GameM10 **7
12The Chestnut Mare7b+ *17
13SmackdownM7+ **1
14Mini Line6a 205
15Book 36c+ 14
16The Fantastic Mr Faz6a+ 89
17Idiot Village6a+ *256
18Autumn Leaves5c *314
19Flux Capacitor5c *251
20Eromon6c 13
 West Quarry - Bouldering 
22Inner Sanctumf6B+ *2
23Piss Flakef4+ 2
24Piss Mantelf5+ 2
25Piss Crackf4+ 3
26Inner Aretef6A+ *3
27Steve's Traversef6B+ *3
28Layback No Flakef5+ *3
29Sloping Ledgef6A *3
30Flake and Ledgef5 *3
31Outer Aretef5 *3
32Anthill Mobf6B+ **2
33Bulletproof Bombf6B+ *1
 Quarryman's Wall 
35Free Entre-prises5c 121
36The Genius of S.K.6a 75
37Solstice7a+ **49
38Avenging the Halsewell7b ***150
39Ancient Order of Freemarblers7a **140
40Billy Winspit7b **79
41Peppercorn Rate7a **209
42Smiling Assassin7a+ 24
43So Naughty5a *647
44Insanely Yours6c+ *47
45Jargon Eater6b+ *206
46Unseen Ripples of the Pebble6a+ **516
47I Thought You Had It!7a **82
48Gallows' Gore7a **88
49Red Rain6c+ ***263
50Queen Anne's Men6c **288
51Exuberance7a *199
52Stone Mason6a+ **759
53Hitachi and Girls6a+ 138
547a+ Took Me Lung4c 560
55Resin Devotion6a *595
56Insect Graveyard6b *393
57Know What I Mean Pal6a *749
58Playtime with Playtex6c+ *14
59Tom's Patience4a *1153
60The West Face Direct (wall of death)6a 77
61Tend my Daisy6a *134
62Pump Me Tenderly6c+ *246
63Pump Me Tenderly (Direct start)6c+ *65
64Pump My Daisy5c **108
65Cold Day6c 68
66Anne-Marie Paid my Fee4c 678
67Nine Years Absence6a *557
68Tailwind6b+ **21
69The Vixen Bitch from Hell7a+ *39
 South Face 
71Agonies of a Dying Mind7a *38
72Dick Dastardly7a+ *21
73Korean South Face Route6c+ *6
74Lips of a Stranger6c+ 11
75Fragile Mind6c+ *25
76Card of Hearts7a+ *14
77Chrissy6c **89
78Chick Power7c **9
79Revhead's Hi-roller7b+ **18
80Scott Arms Race7a *4
81First Dazes of Summer6c *37
82Mackerel5a **612
83Stargazy6a+ *232
84Knickerless Crutches6b+ 65
85Premenstrual Princess6b+ 30
86Dambusters7a+ 2
87New Dawn Fades7c ***1
88Damnation Game7a+ **53
89Frightened of the Sun7b+ *12
90Disbelief Suspended7b+ **24
91Disbelief Reinvented7c **6
92Disbelief right hand7b+ 5
93Mental Stealth Act7c ***1
94Souls of Mischief7c+ **20
95The Pizza Express7c+ **3
96Lunacy Booth7c ***44
97Happy Feet7c **4
98Sectioned7b+ **2
99Nosey6a+ 34
100Rampant Love Jugs6b *129
101Plaice a Bolt5a *172
102Fishy Business5c *192
103Silver Bream Machine6c *55
104Gorilla Tactics6c **89
105Flashheart Direct6b **191
106On the List!E2 5c 1
107Rubics HexVS 5a 13
108Hot Beef Injection6b 207
109Birthday Treat5c 309
110The BatA2 *1
 Winspit Sea Cliffs 
112Beyond BurmaVS 4b 11
113Angkor Wat
-
HVS 4c *1
114LowestoftHS 4b *12
115Face the Music
-
HVS 5a **3
116Still Waters
-
D 2
117Dingle Dell
-
VD 7
118Goosebridge
-
HS 4b 10
119Trumpton
-
VS 4c 9
120Camberwick Green
-
VS 4c *15
121Narcissus
-
S 12
122Echo CornerS 10
123Echo ChimneyVD 15
124Echo Groove
-
S 12
125Bread and Pickle
-
VS 4c 5
126Flying Phoebe
-
VD 5
127Gea
-
VS 4c 3
128Hereabouts
-
VD 3
129Boxing Day Diet Plan
-
VS 4c 4
130''99
-
HVS 5a 3
131Spring Hill
-
HVS 5a 2
132Turkey Wing
-
HS 4b 5
133Saturday Stroll
-
VD 5
134Ten
-
S 4a 12
135The Magus
-
HVS 5a 4
136Barney
-
HS 4b 8
137Corner, Traverse, and Crack
-
S *7
138Immaculate Arete
-
XS 5c 1
139First
-
S 4
140Nani
-
VD 3
141Cephalapod
-
HVS 5a *5
142Mark's Route
-
S 4a 6
143Cup Final Day
-
E1 5b 1
144East of Eden
-
E2 5c 1
145Cosmic Swing
-
VS 4c 1
146Sunday Joint
-
HS 4b 2
147Uncertain Smile
-
HVS 5b 2
148Beginner's Luck
-
VD 5
149SandstormS 4a 10
150Ceri's Route
-
HS 5a 20
151Tentacles
-
E1 5b 2
152Co-Co
-
HVS 5a 2
153Bo-Bo
-
VS 5a 7
154Can't Touch This
-
HS 4b 26
155One Move Wonder
-
HVS 5b 7
156Forswunken
-
E1 6a  
157Alternative EducationVS 4c 6
158Why Felix? Why?!D 1
159Intervention
-
S 16
160Exit Route
-
D 2
161Grace LandS *1
162The Other WomanHS 4a *1
163Christine
-
S 8
164Grit Your Teeth
-
S 4b 1
165Dream Topping
-
HS 7
166Emmy's Roof
-
VS 6
167Praying MantleHS 14
168InsectitudeS 17
169Who Needs Friends?S 15
170mike's route
-
S 4a 2
171The Gullible Armadillo's TailHVS 5a *2
172Pete's KnobHVD 8
173China in your Hands
-
E1 5b 1
174TetrisS 1
175StrathcarronHS 4b 1
176Orange Groove
-
4a 3

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