Lulworth

Climbs 181 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and no climbing is allowed.

Access notes
Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352. The main crags are approached from the big car park in West Lulworth.

Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.

Stair Hole - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. See page 257 for approaches from here.

Amphitheatre Roofs - This is situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. Walk around the shingle beach of the main cove and follow a steep track up the slope on the far side. Take the lower path to the main coast path and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From here scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line from the far side of the amphitheatre marked by a deep gully. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a large stake 20m from the MOD fence. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being "rescued"!

Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth where you will arrive on the map below. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but none in the Winter.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DURDLE DOOR  
2Arcwelder7b ***1
3Riding to Babylon7a+ ***6
4Sardine Liberation Front6c+ S2 ** 
5They Call Me Tall Man6b *3
6Unleash the Veins7b+ **1
 DUNGY HEAD AND CHURCH ROCK  
8Pickpocket5a *2
9Morris the Carnivore6a+ 3
10Beavis and Butthead6a 6
11Beers, Steers and Queers6c **7
12Dungeons and Dragons7a+ *4
13Shoes for my friends6a+ ***5
14Lost Souls6a+ 2
15Looking Through the Infinity Window6c *4
16Closing Time7a+ **6
17Snail SlabV2 3
18Man O' WarV3 *4
19Junk FaceV1 6
20Static CrackV2 6
21CobraV2 6
22Peter CrouchV3 *3
23Stick StealerV3 **3
24Cheese AreteV1 *6
25ExfoliatorV0 6
26Trash Can GulleyV3 3
27Cobra CrackV1 3
28Mongoose GrooveV0 3
29Bed of NailsV3 **5
30The Debt Collector6b *20
31Wall of Feedback6b+ *17
32Blow Me!7a 13
33Blow Daddy-OE4 5c *5
34House Nation6c *31
35B-Boys rock6b+ *2
36Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane6b *32
37Turn It On7b *11
 STAIR HOLE WEST CAVE  
39The Laws TraverseE1 6a **200
40Laws Direct Start7b *5
41Trashy's Arete5a 6
42The BrotherhoodE5 6b ** 
43The Walkin' DudeE4 5c 8
44SkilfishE2 5b  
45Grey SnapperV1 8
46Coke-Can AreteV3 *6
47Wow ProwV8 ***3
48Pocket RocketV4 **10
49Right Hand ManV6 **8
50The DragonV7 ***8
51Pocket GulleyV2 3
52Middle EarthV2 3
53The Eden ProjectV7 **1
54East Cave SlabS 5
55The MaypoleHVS 5a **396
56Escobar7a *1
57Cheddar Direct4c 51
58Slab and CornerVD 2
59LewisVD 3
60Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin WayE2 5c *48
61Crazy NotionE5 6b *33
62Animal Magnetism7b **140
63Journey to Eternia7c+ **2
64Never Kneel to Skeletor7c+ ***1
65Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy8a **1
66Old Timer's Club7b+ **1
67Hurbot the TurbotE4 6b *8
68Skullthugery7c ***2
69Gates of Greyskull7b+ ***48
70Magnetic Gates7c *17
71Magnetic Skulls7c **1
 STAIR HOLE EAST CAVE  
73Last Season's Loozas5a **63
74The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water RatsE4 6a *2
75Hairy Clamber5a *18
76Captain Bastard Got There FirstE2 5c *100
77Despicable Terrier7a *16
78Anarchy StampedeE3 6a *29
79Stagedivin'7a+ *26
80I Love EsztaE3 5c 15
81Window of OpportunityE5 6b *59
82Thieving GypsyE5 6b *11
83Hornier than Thou7b+ **33
84Sliding Down the BanisterE4 6a *28
85Horny Lil' Devil7a ***265
86Adrenochrome8a ***7
87Windowchrome8a+ ***1
88Lord of Darkness7c **2
89Taming the Beast7b+ *1
90Mark of the Beast7c ***33
91The Beast Goes East7c **1
92Burn Hollywood Burn8a ***2
93Lulworth Arms Treaty7b **12
94Freed from Desire7a+ *5
95Grimly Fiendish7a *8
96OmegaVS 2
97Pump up the BeastE7 6b ***4
98Stage Fright7b *2
99Centre Stage7b+ *1
100Z-CarsE6 6b *31
101The Beast of Lulworth7c *2
102Beast Club7c ** 
103Burning Arms7c *2
104The Roof Predator7c+ ** 
105Traverse of the FossilsE2 5c **5
106PlwmpS 3
107Ouzo EnvyVS 4c *3
108Lesbian Spank InfernoE3 6a *1
109RecursionHVS 5a *1
110Evening SlabS 4a **4
111September SessionS 4
112Lulworth New OrderMVS 4b *2
113CuzcoE1 5b *4
114Ghost of YouVS 4b 3
115EvieE2 5b *1
 MOJO-PIN AND IL PIRATE AREA  
117Stalinist RegimeHVS 5a **2
118Souther StutterE1 5a 2
119The Poet and the ThiefVS 4b *5
120Mojo-PinVS 4c ***10
121Mansion PondE2 5b **3
122Mankini BiscuitE2 5c *2
1234 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you...E2 5b 3
124Fear of LitigationE1 5b *2
125Extraordinary RenditionE1 5c 2
126HyperboleE1 5b **9
127MC hammerVS 4c 4
128Too DrivenHS 4
129Pussy GaloreVS 4b 4
130Bolt FreeVS 4b 4
131Bad to the Bone7b+ * 
132Il Pirata7a+ ** 
133Jurassic Coast PimpsE1 5b **4
134SvengaliE3 6a 1
135Carbon FootprintHVS 5b 1
136The GiftHVS 5b **5
137JayKayHVS 4c *1
 AMPHITHEATRE ROOFS  
139Dry Your Eyes Mate7c+ * 
140The Lemon Express7b * 
141Breathe the Pressure7b+ ** 
142Granny Lifts Car7b+ ** 
143Let Ya Bones Hang7a *2
144Rigor Mortise7a **1
145A Storm in Heaven7c **1
146Eye of the Storm7b+ *** 
147Language of Nature7b * 
148Weld's Mother4c 3
149Monolith Monsters7b+ ** 
150Mirrorball7c **1
151Shining Path7a+ *1
 UNSORTED ROUTES  
153Lower than whale shit6c+ 7
154And now for something entirely different *V3 6a 3
155Route 66 6a 3
156Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay TraverseVD **14
157Bastion TraverseS *5
158Does Leviathan Plop Float? *6b+ *8
159Durdle Door Traverse *6a **3
160One-Two, One-Two *7a *2
161Incognito *V1 1
162Buoy in a Crack *V1 1
163Rohan *V1 1
164The Shire *V2 1
165Arch Stanton *V0 2
166Black Magic *V0 2
167No name *V0 2
168Arete Of Nails *V0 1
169Scene of the Crime *V2 1
170Z Chrome *8a+ ***1
171Silly Arete *VD  
172Archway *S 2
173Scott's Escape *HS 1
174Wet Feet *VS 5a 1
175Stormbringer *E2 5b 1
176Exfoliator *E2 5b 1
177Windy Corner *VS 4c 1
178Sideshow *E1 5c 1
179Triple Traverse *HS 2
180The Safety Rail *E4 5c 1
181Back to the Future *E1 5b 1
182Horny Beast *7c ***1
183Imp Of The Perverse *7b+ ***2
184Contortions7a S1 * 
185El Guapo7b+ S0 *** 
186El Diablo Suelto7c S1 ** 
187Thieving GypsyE5 6b * 
188Ramases Cubed7b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rob Kennard

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