Climbs 228
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Patch off Mark of the Beast © dr evil

Crag features

A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and no climbing is allowed.

Approach notes

Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352. The main crags are approached from the big car park in West Lulworth.
Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.
Stair Hole - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. See page 257 for approaches from here.
Amphitheatre Roofs - This is situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. Walk around the shingle beach of the main cove and follow a steep track up the slope on the far side. Take the lower path to the main coast path and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From here scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line from the far side of the amphitheatre marked by a deep gully. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a large stake 20m from the MOD fence. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being "rescued"!
Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth where you will arrive on the map below. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but none in the Winter.

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

It is important not to cross into the MoD owned land near the crag - they will see it as trespassing and might well prosecute if you are caught.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info


The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Durdle Door 
2Arcwelder7b ***1
3Riding to Babylon7a+ ***12
4Sardine Liberation Front6c+ S2 ** 
5They Call Me Tall Man6b *5
6Unleash the Veins7b+ **1
 Dungy Head and Church Rock 
8Pickpocket5a 2
9Morris the Carnivore6a+ 3
10Beavis and Butthead6a 7
11Beers, Steers and Queers6c+ *10
12Dungeons and Dragons7a+ *6
13Shoes for my friends6a+ *7
14Lost Souls6a+ 2
15Looking Through the Infinity Window6c+ ***8
16Closing Time7a+ **6
17Blow Me!7a 14
18Blow Daddy-OE3 5c *5
19The Debt Collector6b *22
20Wall of Feedback6c+ *18
21House Nation6c **33
22B-Boys rock6b+ *2
23Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane6b **35
24Turn It On7b *12
 Church Rock Area - Bouldering 
26Coraclef6A *1
27Cobra Crackf6A *3
28Cobraf6B+ *7
29Mongoose Groovef4+ *6
30Mongoose Aretef3 *3
31Arete Of Nailsf4+ *4
32Bed of Nailsf6B **6
33Shark Skin Prowf7A ** 
34Black Massf6B+ * 
35Crown of Thornsf6B * 
36Grey Snapperf5+ *9
37Coke Can Aretef6B *6
38Wow Prowf7B ***3
39Bogey Facef6A *1
40Out of Sightf5+ *2
41Secret Identityf6A *2
42The Dragonf7A+ ***11
43Left-hand Manf7A ***3
44Right Hand Manf7A ***10
45Pocket Manf6C ** 
46Pocket Rocketf6A **12
47The Serpentf6C+ *** 
48Cloacaf5+ *1
49Wolf Cubf6C+ ** 
50Arch Stantonf4+ 2
51Stanton Deliverf6C+ ** 
52The Eden Projectf7A+ **1
53Black Magicf4+ 3
54Voodoo Peoplef3 1
 Dungy Head Beach - Bouldering 
56Dungy Wallf4 *1
57Dungy Aretef4+ *1
58Dungy Arete, Sit-startf6A *1
59Awesome Aretef6B+ **1
60Awesome Arete, Sit-startf6C+ ***1
61Jade Riverf7A * 
62St Oswald's Wallf5+ *1
63St Oswald's Aretef6C **1
64Spanish Archerf6B+ *1
65Snail Slabf6A *4
66Snail Slab, Sit-startf6A *1
67Corsairf6B **1
68Corsair, Sit-startf6B+ **2
69Man O' Warf6A+ **6
70Man O' War, Sit-startf6C ***1
71Man O' War Aretef4+ *1
72Man O' War Arete, Sit-startf5+ **1
73Two Metres Squaredf5 2
74Two By Twof5+ 2
75Four Square Metresf4 2
76Made from Girdersf4+ *1
77Irn Bru Traversef6A *2
78Frank Sidebottomf6A *1
79Front Bottomf6C  
80Back Bottomf6C ** 
81Big Berthaf5+ *1
82Hurricane Berthaf6B+ *1
83Junk in My Trunkf3 1
84Junk Facef5+ *7
85Junk Aretef4+ *1
86Cat Powerf7A **1
87Jurassicaf6A * 
88Static Crackf6A *6
89Peter Crouchf6B **3
90Stick Stealerf6B **3
91No Aretef6C **1
92Cheese Aretef6B ***7
93Doing Timef7A * 
94Exfoliatorf4+ 6
 Stair Hole West Cave 
96The Laws TraverseE1 6a **217
97Laws Direct Start7b S1 *6
98Trashy's AreteVS 4c 7
99The BrotherhoodE5 6b ** 
100The Walkin' DudeE4 5c 8
101SkilfishE3 5b  
102Pocket Gulley
f5+ 3
103Middle Earth
f5+ 3
104East Cave SlabS 5
105The MaypoleHVS 5b ***472
106Escobar7a S0 *1
107Cheddar DirectVS 4c *56
108Slab and CornerVD 2
109LewisVD 3
110Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin WayE2 5c *58
111Crazy NotionE5 6b **47
112Animal Magnetism7a+ ***157
113Journey to Eternia7c+ **2
114Never Kneel to Skeletor7c+ ***1
115Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy8a **1
116Old Timer's Club7b+ S1 **1
117Hurbot the TurbotE4 6b *10
118SkullthugeryE6 6b ***2
119Gates of Greyskull7b+ ***55
120Magnetic Gates7c *18
121Magnetic SkullsE6 6b **1
 Stair Hole East Cave 
123Last Season's Loozas5a S1 **73
124The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water RatsE4 6a *4
125Hairy ClamberVS 4c *19
126Captain Bastard Got There FirstE2 5c *125
127Despicable TerrierE3 6a *21
128Anarchy StampedeE3 6a *32
129Stagedivin'7a+ *27
130I Love EsztaE3 5c 15
131Window of OpportunityE5 6b **68
132Thieving GypsyE5 6b *11
133Hornier than ThouE6 6b **37
134Sliding Down the BanisterE4 6a *32
135Horny Lil' Devil7a ***317
136Adrenochrome8a ***15
137WindowchromeE7 6c ***1
138Lord of Darkness7c **2
139Taming the Beast7b+ *1
140Mark of the Beast7c ***36
141The Beast Goes East7c **1
142Burn Hollywood Burn8a ***2
143Lulworth Arms Treaty7b **13
144Freed from Desire7a+ *5
145Grimly Fiendish7a *8
146OmegaVS 2
147Pump up the BeastE7 6b ***4
148Stage Fright7b *2
149Centre Stage7b+ *1
150Z-CarsE6 6b *35
151The Beast of Lulworth7c **2
152Beast Club7c ** 
153Burning Arms7c **2
154The Roof Predator7c+ *** 
155Traverse of the FossilsE2 5c **5
156PlwmpS 3
157Ouzo EnvyVS 4c *3
158Lesbian Spank InfernoE3 6a *1
159RecursionHVS 5a *1
160Evening SlabS 4a **4
161September Session
S 4
162Lulworth New OrderMVS 4b *2
163CuzcoE1 5b *4
164Ghost of YouVS 4b 3
165EvieE2 5b *1
 Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area 
167Stalinist RegimeHVS 5a *2
168Souther StutterE1 5a *2
169The Poet and the ThiefVS 4b *5
170Mojo-PinVS 5a **10
171Mansion PondE2 5b **3
172Mankini BiscuitE2 5c **2
1734 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you...E2 5b *3
174Fear of LitigationE1 5b *2
175Extraordinary RenditionE1 5c *2
176HyperboleHVS 5a **9
177MC hammerVS 4c 4
178Too DrivenHS 4
179Pussy GaloreVS 4c *4
180Bolt FreeVS 4c *4
181Bad to the Bone7b+ * 
182Il Pirata7c ** 
183Jurassic Coast PimpsE1 5b **4
184SvengaliE3 6a *1
185Carbon FootprintHVS 5b 1
186The GiftHVS 5b **6
187JayKayHVS 4c *1
 Amphitheatre Roofs 
189Dry Your Eyes Mate7c+ * 
190The Lemon Express7b * 
191Breathe the Pressure7b+ ** 
192Granny Lifts Car7b+ ** 
193Let Ya Bones Hang7a *2
194Rigor Mortise7a **1
195A Storm in Heaven7c **1
196Eye of the Storm7b+ *** 
197Language of Nature7b * 
198Weld's Mother4c 3
199Monolith Monsters7b+ ** 
200Mirrorball7c **1
201Shining Path7a+ *1
 Unsorted routes 
203Trash Can Gulley
f6A 3
204Lower than whale shit6c+ S0 *9
205And now for something entirely differentf6A 3
206Route 666a S1 *3
207Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay TraverseVD **15
208Bastion TraverseS *5
209Does Leviathan Plop Float?6b+ *9
210Durdle Door Traverse6a **3
211One-Two, One-Two7a *3
212Incognitof5+ *2
213Buoy in a Crackf5 1
214Rohanf5 1
215The Shiref5+ 1
216No namef3 *3
217Scene of the Crimef5+ 2
218Z Chrome8a+ ***1
219Silly AreteVD  
S 2
221Scott's Escape
HS 2
222Wet Feet
VS 5a 1
E2 5b 1
E2 5b 1
225Windy Corner
VS 4c 1
E1 5c 2
227Triple Traverse
HS 2
228The Safety Rail
E4 5c 2
229Back to the Future
E1 5b 1
230Horny Beast7c ***1
231Imp Of The PerverseE6 6b **2
232Contortions7a S1 * 
233El Guapo7b+ S0 *** 
234El Diablo Suelto7c S1 ** 
235Thieving GypsyE5 6b * 
236Ramases Cubed7b+  
237Despicable Stampede linkup6b+ 2

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