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These details were last updated on 16/Sep/2013



Climbs 174 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and no climbing is allowed.

Access notes
Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352. The main crags are approached from the big car park in West Lulworth.

Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.

Stair Hole - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. See page 257 for approaches from here.

Amphitheatre Roofs - This is situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. Walk around the shingle beach of the main cove and follow a steep track up the slope on the far side. Take the lower path to the main coast path and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From here scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line from the far side of the amphitheatre marked by a deep gully. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a large stake 20m from the MOD fence. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being "rescued"!

Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth where you will arrive on the map below. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but none in the Winter.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
17 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
17 °C
20 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
18 °C
25 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
14 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Morris the Carnivore6a+ 3
2Beavis and Butthead6a 6
3Beers, Steers and Queers6c **7
4Dungeons and Dragons7a+ *4
5Shoes for my friends6a+ ***5
6Lost Souls6a+ 2
7Looking Through the Infinity Window6c *4
8Closing Time7a+ **6
9Arcwelder7b ***1
10Riding to Babylon7a+ ***6
11They Call Me Tall Man6b *3
12Unleash the Veins7b+ **1
13Pickpocket5a *2
14Snail SlabV2 3
15Man O' WarV3 *4
16Junk FaceV1 6
17Static CrackV2 6
18CobraV2 6
19Peter CrouchV3 *3
20Stick StealerV3 **3
21Cheese AreteV1 *6
22ExfoliatorV0 6
23Trash Can GulleyV3 3
24Cobra CrackV1 3
25Mongoose GrooveV0 3
26Bed of NailsV3 **5
27The Debt Collector6b *20
28Wall of Feedback6b+ *17
29Blow Me!7a 13
30Blow Daddy-OE4 5c *5
31House Nation6c *31
32B-Boys rock6b+ *2
33Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane6b *32
34Turn It On7b *11
35Grey SnapperV1 8
36Coke-Can AreteV3 *6
37Wow ProwV8 ***3
38Pocket RocketV4 **10
39Right Hand ManV6 **8
40The DragonV7 ***8
41Pocket GulleyV2 3
42Middle EarthV2 3
43The Eden ProjectV7 **1
44The Laws TraverseE1 6a **200
45Laws Direct Start7b *5
46SkilfishE2 5b  
47The Walkin' DudeE4 5c 8
48East Cave SlabS 5
49The MaypoleHVS 5a **394
50Escobar7a *1
51Cheddar Direct4c 51
52Slab and CornerVD 2
53LewisVD 3
54Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin WayE2 5c *48
55Crazy NotionE5 6b *33
56Animal Magnetism7b **139
57Journey to Eternia7c+ **2
58Never Kneel to Skeletor7c+ ***1
59Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy8a **1
60Old Timer's Club7b+ **1
61Hurbot the TurbotE4 6b *8
62Skullthugery7c ***2
63Gates of Greyskull7b+ ***48
64Magnetic Gates7c *17
65Magnetic Skulls7c **1
66Last Season's Loozas5a **63
67The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water RatsE4 6a *2
68Hairy Clamber5a *18
69Captain Bastard Got There FirstE2 5c *100
70Despicable Terrier7a *16
71Anarchy StampedeE3 6a *29
72Stagedivin'7a+ *26
73I Love EsztaE3 5c 15
74Window of OpportunityE5 6b *59
75Thieving GypsyE5 6b *11
76Hornier than Thou7b+ **33
77Sliding Down the BanisterE4 6a *28
78Horny Lil' Devil7a ***264
79Adrenochrome8a ***7
80Windowchrome8a+ ***1
81Lord of Darkness7c **2
82Taming the Beast7b+ *1
83Mark of the Beast7c ***33
84The Beast Goes East7c **1
85Burn Hollywood Burn8a ***2
86Lulworth Arms Treaty7b **12
87Freed from Desire7a+ *5
 Climb nameGradex
88Grimly Fiendish7a *8
89OmegaVS 2
90Pump up the BeastE7 6b ***4
91Stage Fright7b *2
92Centre Stage7b+ *1
93Z-CarsE6 6b *31
94The Beast of Lulworth7c *2
95Beast Club7c ** 
96Burning Arms7c *2
97The Roof Predator7c+ ** 
98Traverse of the FossilsE2 5c **5
99PlwmpS 3
100Ouzo EnvyVS 4c *3
101Lesbian Spank InfernoE3 6a *1
102RecursionHVS 5a *1
103Evening SlabS 4a **4
104September SessionS 4
105Lulworth New OrderMVS 4b *2
106CuzcoE1 5b *4
107Ghost of YouVS 4b 3
108EvieE2 5b *1
109Stalinist RegimeHVS 5a **2
110Souther StutterE1 5a 2
111The Poet and the ThiefVS 4b *5
112Mojo-PinVS 4c ***10
113Mansion PondE2 5b **3
114Mankini BiscuitE2 5c *2
1154 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you...E2 5b 3
116Fear of LitigationE1 5b *2
117Extraordinary RenditionE1 5c 2
118HyperboleE1 5b **9
119MC hammerVS 4c 4
120Too DrivenHS 4
121Pussy GaloreVS 4b 4
122Bolt FreeVS 4b 4
123Bad to the Bone7b+ * 
124Il Pirata7a+ ** 
125Jurassic Coast PimpsE1 5b **4
126SvengaliE3 6a 1
127Carbon FootprintHVS 5b 1
128The GiftHVS 5b **5
129JayKayHVS 4c *1
130Dry Your Eyes Mate7c+ * 
131The Lemon Express7b * 
132Breathe the Pressure7b+ ** 
133Granny Lifts Car7b+ ** 
134Let Ya Bones Hang7a *2
135Rigor Mortise7a **1
136A Storm in Heaven7c **1
137Eye of the Storm7b+ *** 
138Language of Nature7b * 
139Weld's Mother4c 3
140Monolith Monsters7b+ ** 
141Mirrorball7c **1
142Shining Path7a+ *1
143Lower than whale shit6c+ 7
144And now for something entirely different *V3 6a 3
145Route 66 6a 3
146Trashy's Arete5a 6
147Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay TraverseVD **14
148Bastion TraverseS *5
149Does Leviathan Plop Float? *6b+ *8
150Durdle Door Traverse *6a **3
151One-Two, One-Two *7a *2
152Incognito *V1 1
153Buoy in a Crack *V1 1
154Rohan *V1 1
155The Shire *V2 1
156Arch Stanton *V0 2
157Black Magic *V0 2
158No name *V0 2
159Arete Of Nails *V0 1
160Scene of the Crime *V2 1
161Z Chrome *8a+ ***1
162Silly Arete *VD  
163Archway *S 2
164Scott's Escape *HS 1
165Wet Feet *VS 5a 1
166Stormbringer *E2 5b 1
167Exfoliator *E2 5b 1
168Windy Corner *VS 4c 1
169Sideshow *E1 5c 1
170Triple Traverse *HS 2
171The Safety Rail *E4 5c 1
172Back to the Future *E1 5b 1
173Horny Beast *7c ***1
174Imp Of The Perverse *7b+ ***2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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