Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Unknown climber at Lulworth Cove © gooding

Crag features

A superb set of roof climbs and also another great deep water solo venue. Currently has serious access problems and no climbing is allowed.

Approach notes

Lulworth Cove is well signed from the town of Wool which is on the A352. The main crags are approached from the big car park in West Lulworth.
Dungy Head/Church Rock - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue up the steep hill on the right. After 200m turn left up a hidden track, by a large double garage, just past Stair House and follow this steeply to gain a ridge. The routes are all approached from here.
Stair Hole - Walk up the main road, past the Heritage Centre, and continue over a ridge to descend into the Stair Hole basin. Do not bear left towards the telescope on the hill. See page 257 for approaches from here.
Amphitheatre Roofs - This is situated on the far side of the main Lulworth Cove. Walk around the shingle beach of the main cove and follow a steep track up the slope on the far side. Take the lower path to the main coast path and after about 150m double back down the slope to a rock amphitheatre. From here scramble (Diff) or abseil down to just above the water-line from the far side of the amphitheatre marked by a deep gully. The starts are reached by scrambling along the base of the cliff which is easy at low tide but tricky at high tide (VDiff). It is also possible to abseil into the eastern end from a large stake 20m from the MOD fence. Leave gear well out of sight to avoid being "rescued"!
Durdle Door - Durdle Door can easily be reached by walking over the hill from Lulworth where you will arrive on the map below. Alternatively you can park in the car park which is situated at the far side of Durdle Door campsite. There is a parking charge in the Summer but none in the Winter.

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

It is important not to cross into the MoD owned land near the crag - they will see it as trespassing and might well prosecute if you are caught.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Durdle Door 
2ButterfingersS 1
3Arcwelder7b ***1
4Riding to Babylon7a+ ***12
5Sardine Liberation Front6c+ S2 ** 
6They Call Me Tall Man6b *5
7Unleash the Veins7b+ **1
8St. Oswald's Bay to Durdle Door Traverse5c **1
 Dungy Head and Church Rock 
10Pickpocket5a 2
11Morris the Carnivore6a+ 3
12Beavis and Butthead6a 7
13Beers, Steers and Queers6c+ *10
14Dungeons and Dragons7a+ *6
15Shoes for my friends6a+ *7
16Lost Souls6a+ 2
17Looking Through the Infinity Window6c+ ***8
18Closing Time7a+ **6
19Blow Me!7a 14
20Blow Daddy-OE3 5c *7
21The Debt Collector6b *22
22Wall of Feedback6c+ *19
23House Nation6c **34
24B-Boys rock6b+ *2
25Jugmaster Funk Meets M.C. Lane6b **36
26Turn It On7b *12
 Church Rock Area - Bouldering 
28Coraclef6A *1
29Cobra Crackf6A *3
30Cobraf6B+ *7
31Mongoose Groovef4+ *6
32Mongoose Aretef3 *3
33Arete Of Nailsf4+ *4
34Bed of Nailsf6B **6
35Shark Skin Prowf7A ** 
36Black Massf6B+ * 
37Crown of Thornsf6B * 
38Grey Snapperf5+ *10
39Coke Can Aretef6B *7
40Wow Prowf7B ***3
41Bogey Facef6A *1
42Out of Sightf5+ *2
43Secret Identityf6A *2
44The Dragonf7A+ ***11
45Left-hand Manf7A ***3
46Right Hand Manf7A ***12
47Pocket Manf6C ** 
48Pocket Rocketf6A **13
49The Serpentf6C+ *** 
50Cloacaf5+ *1
51Wolf Cubf6C+ ** 
52Arch Stantonf4+ 2
53Stanton Deliverf6C+ ** 
54The Eden Projectf7A+ **1
55Black Magicf4+ 3
56Voodoo Peoplef3 1
 Dungy Head Beach - Bouldering 
58Dungy Wallf4 *4
59Dungy Aretef4+ *2
60Dungy Arete, Sit-startf6A *3
61Awesome Aretef6B+ **1
62Awesome Arete, Sit-startf6C+ ***1
63Jade Riverf7A * 
64St Oswald's Wallf5+ *1
65St Oswald's Aretef6C **1
66Spanish Archerf6B+ *1
67Snail Slabf6A *4
68Snail Slab, Sit-startf6A *1
69Corsairf6B **1
70Corsair, Sit-startf6B+ **2
71Man O' Warf6A+ **6
72Man O' War, Sit-startf6C ***1
73Man O' War Aretef4+ *1
74Man O' War Arete, Sit-startf5+ **1
75Two Metres Squaredf5 5
76Two By Twof5+ 4
77Four Square Metresf4 3
78Made from Girdersf4+ *1
79Irn Bru Traversef6A *2
80Frank Sidebottomf6A *2
81Front Bottomf6C  
82Back Bottomf6C **2
83Big Berthaf5+ *1
84Hurricane Berthaf6B+ *1
85Junk in My Trunkf3 1
86Junk Facef5+ *7
87Junk Aretef4+ *1
88Cat Powerf7A **1
89Jurassicaf6A * 
90Static Crackf6A *6
91Peter Crouchf6B **3
92Stick Stealerf6B **3
93No Aretef6C **1
94Cheese Aretef6B ***7
95Doing Timef7A * 
96Exfoliatorf4+ 6
 Stair Hole West Cave 
98The Laws TraverseE1 6a **261
99Laws Direct Start7b S1 *6
100Trashy's AreteVS 4c 7
101The BrotherhoodE5 6b ** 
102The Walkin' DudeE4 5c 8
103SkilfishE3 5b  
104Pocket Gulley
-
V2 3
105Middle Earth
-
V2 3
106East Cave SlabS 5
107The MaypoleHVS 5b ***550
108Escobar7a S0 *1
109Cheddar DirectVS 4c *70
110Slab and CornerVD 2
111LewisVD 4
112Truth, Justice and the Raggamuffin WayE2 5c *77
113Crazy NotionE5 6b **63
114Animal Magnetism7a+ ***206
115Journey to Eternia7c+ **2
116Never Kneel to Skeletor7c+ ***1
117Never Kneel to an Eternity of Mediocracy8a **1
118Old Timer's Club7b+ S1 **1
119Hurbot the TurbotE4 6b *12
120SkullthugeryE6 6b ***2
121Gates of Greyskull7b+ ***87
122Magnetic Gates7c *19
123Magnetic SkullsE6 6b **1
 Stair Hole East Cave 
125Last Season's Loozas5a S1 **80
126The Honorary Society of Self-Publicising Water RatsE4 6a *4
127Hairy ClamberVS 4c *26
128Captain Bastard Got There FirstE2 5c *150
129Despicable TerrierE3 6a *28
130Anarchy StampedeE3 6a *34
131Stagedivin'7a+ *31
132I Love EsztaE3 5c 16
133Window of OpportunityE5 6b **83
134Thieving GypsyE5 6b *11
135Hornier than ThouE6 6b **43
136Sliding Down the BanisterE4 6a *34
137Horny Lil' Devil7a ***429
138Adrenochrome8a ***38
139WindowchromeE7 6c ***1
140Lord of Darkness7c **2
141Taming the Beast7b+ *1
142Mark of the Beast7c ***62
143The Beast Goes East7c **1
144Burn Hollywood Burn8a+ ***2
145Lulworth Arms Treaty7b **15
146Freed from Desire7a+ *6
147Grimly Fiendish7a *8
148OmegaVS 2
149Pump up the BeastE7 6b ***4
150Stage Fright7b *2
151Centre Stage7b+ *1
152Z-CarsE6 6b *43
153The Beast of Lulworth7c **2
154Beast Club7c ** 
155Burning Arms7c **2
156The Roof Predator7c+ *** 
157Traverse of the FossilsE2 5c **5
158PlwmpS 3
159Ouzo EnvyVS 4c *3
160Lesbian Spank InfernoE3 6a *1
161RecursionHVS 5a *1
162Evening SlabS 4a **4
163September Session
-
S 4
164Lulworth New OrderMVS 4b *2
165CuzcoE1 5b *4
166Ghost of YouVS 4b 3
167EvieE2 5b *1
 Mojo-Pin and Il Pirate Area 
169Stalinist RegimeHVS 5a *2
170Souther StutterE1 5a *2
171The Poet and the ThiefVS 4b *5
172Mojo-PinVS 5a **10
173Mansion PondE2 5b **3
174Mankini BiscuitE2 5c **2
1754 years, 5 months and 15 days and still missing you...E2 5b *3
176Fear of LitigationE1 5b *2
177Extraordinary RenditionE1 5c *2
178HyperboleHVS 5a **9
179MC hammerVS 4c 4
180Too DrivenHS 4
181Pussy GaloreVS 4c *4
182Bolt FreeVS 4c *4
183Bad to the Bone7b+ * 
184Il Pirata7c ** 
185Jurassic Coast PimpsE1 5b **4
186SvengaliE3 6a *1
187Carbon FootprintHVS 5b 1
188The GiftHVS 5b **6
189JayKayHVS 4c *1
 Amphitheatre Roofs 
191Dry Your Eyes Mate7c+ * 
192The Lemon Express7b * 
193Breathe the Pressure7b+ ** 
194Granny Lifts Car7b+ ** 
195Let Ya Bones Hang7a *2
196Rigor Mortise7a **1
197A Storm in Heaven7c **1
198Eye of the Storm7b+ *** 
199Language of Nature7b * 
200Weld's Mother4c 3
201Monolith Monsters7b+ ** 
202Mirrorball7c **1
203Shining Path7a+ *1
 Unsorted routes 
205Trash Can Gulley
-
V3 3
206Lower than whale shit6c+ S0 *10
207And now for something entirely differentV3 3
208Route 666a S1 *4
209Lulworth Cove - Mupe Bay TraverseVD **16
210Bastion TraverseS *5
211Does Leviathan Plop Float?6b+ *11
212Durdle Door Traverse6a **6
213One-Two, One-Two7a *3
214Incognitof5+ *2
215Buoy in a CrackV1 1
216RohanV1 1
217The ShireV2 1
218No namef3 *3
219Scene of the CrimeV2 2
220Z Chrome8a+ ***2
221Silly AreteVD  
222Archway
-
S 2
223Scott's Escape
-
HS 2
224Wet Feet
-
VS 5a 2
225Stormbringer
-
E2 5b 1
226Exfoliator
-
E2 5b 1
227Windy Corner
-
VS 4c 1
228Sideshow
-
E1 5c 2
229Triple Traverse
-
HS 2
230The Safety Rail
-
E4 5c 2
231Back to the Future
-
E1 5b 1
232Horny Beast7c ***1
233Imp Of The PerverseE6 6b **3
234Contortions7a S1 * 
235El Guapo7b+ S0 *** 
236El Diablo Suelto7c S1 ** 
237Thieving GypsyE5 6b * 
238Ramases Cubed7b+  
239Despicable Stampede linkup6b+ 2

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