Blacknor North

Climbs 78 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
44Popeye Doyle7c **5
45French Connection UK7b+ **15
46Appleturnoverload7a+ **109
47Very Sleepy River6b **372
48Edge Hog7a+ 10
49Toes Curl6c+ *28
50Freaky Ralph8a+ **10
51Aim High, Shoot Low6a+ *153
 REPTILE SMILE AREA  
53Downtown Julie Brown6c ***393
54Reptile Smile6a+ ***965
55Unnamed5a *9
56Talking Smack5c *272
57Slings Shot5a ***1260
58Crocadilia6a *265
59Spanner Eyes7b **95
60England's Dreaming7a+ ***370
61Cake Walk6a **604
62The Tea-Cake Path6b 25
63California Hot Licks6a+ 27
64Doughnuts and Duvets6b *122
65Apfel Strudel6a 313
66Dwarf Lops6b+ 29
67Suck, Don't Blow6c *20
68Mother's Milk6a **429
69Do You Like Our Owls?6b *90
70Hot From the Forge7a *45
71Onto the Ice Flow7a *54
 WHO DOES TRAD AT PORTLAND? LOCATION UNKNOWN  
73Overture ChimneyHVS 5a 1
74The CurlerVS 4c * 
75Dirt TrackVS 4b  
76San AndreasE1 5b  
77Resurgent Spirit of LooseE1 5a 1
78EnlightenmentHVS 5b 1
79DeceptionVS 4b 1
80SubterfugeVS 4b 1
81High on the Richter ScaleE3 5c 1
82Speleo Joy ToyVS 4b 1
83PoppadomE1 5a 1
84Klepto KrackHVS 4c 1
85Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My HeartVS 4a *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08