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View larger mapGrid Ref SY 677716 (OS Landranger #194)

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These details were last updated on 19/Sep/2007

Blacknor North

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 74 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.1mm rain
Sun
11 °C
23 kph

0.4mm rain
Sun
12 °C
21 kph

1.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
12 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
12 °C
23 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Reinheitsgebot4 15
2Another One for the Pot6b 11
3Slim Fingers' Revenge7a *7
4Boiled Lobster6b *11
5Absolute Beginners2 18
6Chin Reaction6c 2
7Meltdown7a **31
8Quakin' in My Bones7a+ *11
9Sellerfield7a+ *3
10The Taylor Show6a+ 19
11Death of Cool7a+ *2
12Drag Racing Underground6c+ **15
13Seattle be the Day6b+ *35
14The Fabulous Bakery Boys6c *17
15Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher6b **62
16Grease Paint and Monkey Brains6a *119
17Indian Summer6a *123
18Blowing Chunks6c 7
19Where's Blue Hippo7a+ *5
20Beer and Corruption7a *27
21Henry Rollins for President7a+ 4
22Wynona's Big Brown Beaver6c 1
23Ximenesque6b+ 11
24In Dust We Trust6c+ 1
25Ironhead7a+ *21
26Meg's Got Leukaemia6a **329
27Cinema Paradiso6a *156
28Skin Flick7a  
29Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune6a *225
30Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality6c *27
31Unknown6a 4
32Is Vic There?7a **128
33Sanfte Kuss7a+ **18
34Wolfgang Forever7a **191
35Popeye Doyle7c 4
36French Connection UK7b+ **12
37Apple Turn Overload7a+ **85
 Climb nameGradex
38Very Sleepy River6b **298
39Edge Hog7a+ 6
40Toes Curl6c+ *26
41Freaky Ralph8a+ **7
42Aim High, Shoot Low6a+ *133
43Downtown Julie Brown6c **310
44Reptile Smile6a+ ***797
45Talking Smack5+ *234
46Slings Shot5 ***1055
47Crocadilia6a *190
48Spanner Eyes7b *79
49England's Dreaming7a+ ***307
50Cake Walk6a *506
51The Tea-Cake Path6b 15
52California Hot Licks6a+ 22
53Doughnuts and Duvets6b *106
54Apfel Strudel6a 274
55Dwarf Lops6b+ 25
56Suck, Don't Blow6c 20
57Mother's Milk6a **353
58Do You Like Our Owls?6b *81
59Hot From the Forge7a *37
60Onto the Ice Flow7a *41
61Imbolc7b+ *18
62The Hong Jagged Flake of Death (Retired)6b+ *4
63Vs Climb *VS 4c *** 
64Unnamed *5 *1
65Overture Chimney *HVS 5a 1
66Resurgent Spirit of Loose *E1 5a 1
67Enlightenment *HVS 5b 1
68Deception *VS 4b 1
69Subterfuge *VS 4b 1
70High on the Richter Scale *E3 5c 1
71Speleo Joy Toy *VS 4b 1
72Poppadom *E1 5a 1
73Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My Heart *VS 4a 1
74Klepto Krack *HVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. It is planned to turn this site into a visitorâs car park in the near future. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Walk towards the cliff-top path and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old bunker, and drop down into a quarried area. Find a small path which doubles back leftwards down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Drag Racing Area.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer vertigo

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11

webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08