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These details were last updated on 19/Sep/2007

Blacknor North

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 63 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Reinheitsgebot4 14
2Another One for the Pot6b 11
3Slim Fingers' Revenge7a *6
4Boiled Lobster6b *10
5Absolute Beginners2 18
6Chin Reaction6c 1
7Meltdown7a **29
8Quakin' in My Bones7a+ *10
9Sellerfield7a+ *2
10The Taylor Show6a+ 18
11Death of Cool7a+ *1
12Drag Racing Underground6c+ **14
13Seattle be the Day6b+ *33
14The Fabulous Bakery Boys6c *15
15Captain Lob Meets the Nipple Pincher6b **60
16Grease Paint and Monkey Brains6a *106
17Indian Summer6a *111
18Blowing Chunks6c 7
19Where's Blue Hippo7a+ *5
20Beer and Corruption7a *27
21Henry Rollins for President7a+ 4
22Wynona's Big Brown Beaver6c 1
23Ximenesque6b+ 10
24In Dust We Trust6c+ 1
25Ironhead7a+ *18
26Meg's Got Leukaemia6a **287
27Cinema Paradiso6a *140
28Skin Flick7a  
29Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune6a *206
30Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality6c *26
31Unknown6a 3
 Climb nameGradex
32Is Vic There?7a **114
33Sanfte Kuss7a+ **17
34Wolfgang Forever7a **165
35Popeye Doyle7c 3
36French Connection UK7b+ **9
37Apple Turn Overload7a+ **63
38Very Sleepy River6b **251
39Edge Hog7a+ 6
40Toes Curl6c+ *22
41Freaky Ralph8a+ **5
42Aim High, Shoot Low6a+ *120
43Downtown Julie Brown6c **268
44Reptile Smile6a+ ***686
45Talking Smack5+ *208
46Slings Shot5 ***904
47Crocadilia6a *149
48Spanner Eyes7b *71
49England's Dreaming7a+ ***271
50Cake Walk6a *448
51The Tea-Cake Path6b 9
52California Hot Licks6a+ 19
53Doughnuts and Duvets6b *97
54Apfel Strudel6a 256
55Dwarf Lops6b+ 19
56Suck, Don't Blow6c 20
57Mother's Milk6a **312
58Do You Like Our Owls?6b *78
59Hot From the Forge7a *34
60Onto the Ice Flow7a *37
61Imbolc7b+ *15
62The Hong Jagged Flake of Death (Retired)6b+ *4
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Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. It is planned to turn this site into a visitorâs car park in the near future. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Walk towards the cliff-top path and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old bunker, and drop down into a quarried area. Find a small path which doubles back leftwards down the hill. This leads down to the first routes on the Drag Racing Area.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer vertigo ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator ? - 15/Jun/11

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 ? - 29/Apr/11

webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather : http://www.bbc.co.uk/dorset/content/webcams/weymouth_webcam.shtml
Jonathan Emett ? - 09/Sep/08