Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Jo Hardy on Lunar Eclipse © redsteve

Crag features

Blacknor North is justifiably one of the most popular areas on the Isle with towering lines in abundance on some of the most amazing flowstone formations you will see anywhere. It is home to the classic Reptile Smile and Slings Shot. Often busy at weekends and bank holidays.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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A very aggressive gull is nesting on the line of Captain Klutz (just above the initial conglomerate section), best avoided for the time being although it is not officially in the restricted area. My partner suffered a cut head due to talon attack as he lowered off 11.06.11!
The Ivanator - 15/Jun/11
Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July. Reason - Nesting Birds A nesting restriction covers all routes between 'Death of Cool' to 'Indian Summer' - also please be quiet when walking through this section of the crag. There is only one notice up at the cliff thought this may help
jonberry791 - 29/Apr/11
webcam looking towards portland from weymouth - useful for current weather :
Jonathan Emett - 09/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

30Ximenesque6b+ 12
31In Dust We Trust6c+ 1
 Captain Klutz Area 
33Ironhead7a+ **25
34Meg's Got Leukaemia6a **419
35Cinema Paradiso6a *209
36Skin Flick7a 2
37Captain Klutz and the Sailors of Fortune6a *277
38Major Mushrooms and that Mentally Muffled Mentality6c *34
39Unknown6a 6
 Wolfgang Forever Area 
41Is Vic There?7a **170
42Sanfte Kuss7a+ *29
43Wolfgang Forever7a **267
44Popeye Doyle7c **5
45French Connection UK7b+ **15
46Appleturnoverload7a+ **116
47Very Sleepy River6b **403
48Edge Hog7a+ 10
49Toes Curl6c+ *30
50Freaky Ralph8a+ **10
51Aim High, Shoot Low6a+ *166
 Reptile Smile Area 
53Downtown Julie Brown6c ***453
54Reptile Smile6a+ ***1111
55Unnamed5a *11
56Talking Smack5c *283
57Slings Shot5a ***1378
58Crocadilia6a *295
59Spanner Eyes7b **101
60England's Dreaming7a+ ***394
61Cake Walk6a **670
62The Tea-Cake Path6b 30
63California Hot Licks6a+ 31
64Doughnuts and Duvets6b *128
65Apfel Strudel6a 324
66Dwarf Lops6b+ 30
67Suck, Don't Blow6c *21
68Mother's Milk6a **482
69Do You Like Our Owls?6b *91
70Hot From the Forge7a *48
71Onto the Ice Flow7a *57
 Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown 
73Overture Chimney
HVS 5a 2
74The CurlerVS 4c * 
75Dirt TrackVS 4b  
76San AndreasE1 5b  
77Resurgent Spirit of Loose
E1 5a 2
78EnlightenmentHVS 5b 2
VS 4b 1
VS 4b 1
81High on the Richter Scale
E3 5c 1
82Speleo Joy ToyVS 4b 2
83PoppadomE1 5a 1
84Klepto KrackHVS 4c 2
85Shatter My Illusions but Don't Break My HeartVS 4a *2

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