Blacknor South

Climbs 110 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 36m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SACRED ANGEL AREA 
2BlockheadHS 4b *
3Dirty Cow7a *
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *
6Talk6a+ **
7Toe the Line6b **
8Reunion6a+
9Sacred Angel7a **
10String of PearlsHVS 4c
11Pining for Glossop7a **
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *
13Love in the Mist6a *
14The DevilHVS 5b
15Draper's Henchmen7a+
16Oblivion is Forever6c *
17EquinoxE2 5c
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *
20Well Done Poppet5a *
21Do Ixtlan4c *
22Eating Bush5a
23Princess Bolting3+
24Imperfect3+ *
25Jutland4a
26Lifeline6a+ *
27It's My Life5a *
28Beware of the Rungis5c
29Pedagogy6a
 MEDUSA FALLS AREA 
31The Lizard of Oz6a+ **
32Snakes Alive6b *
33Slither7a+ *
34Medusa Falls7a ***
35To Wish the Impossible7a ***
36Psychosomatic Addict7a+ **
37Crack My Bitch Up6b *
38Kamikaze Moped7a *
39The Oldest Profession7a **
40Loose Cannon7a **
41Turned to Stone6c+ ***
42Skids of Mark7b *
43Bum Droplets6b+ **
44Cut Throat Jake6b **
45Cute Ass7a *
46No Ifs, No Butts6c *
47Seaman Stains6c *
48Hello Sailor6c *
49Master Bates6b+ *
50Kite Marks7a *
51Captain Pugwash6c+ *
52Roger the Cabin Boy6b+ *
53The Black Pig7b *
54Still My Bleeding Heart6a+
 SHARBUTTS QUARRY 
56Sunseeker2+
57Meatjam6a+
58Sunset Sessions6c+
59Sunny Side Up5a
60Don't Kill Me4a
61Vertically Challenged3
62Sunny Delight3
63Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun3
64The Mighty Bush4c
65Casting at the Sun5a
66Memories of Blue5a
67Ohhh Kaya6c
68Evie's Constance5c *
 LUNAR PARK 
70Solar Flare3+ *
71Sun Spot5a *
72Sea of Tranquillity3 *
73Moonshine3 *
74Walking on the Moon4a *
75Dark Side of the Moon4a *
76Lunar Eclipse2 *
77Half Moon2+ *
78Full Moon5c *
 DIAMOND BOULDERS 
80The Hardye Girls7a
81Rough Diamond4a *
82Diamond Geezer5a *
83Diamond Boulder4a **
84Diamond Edge4a *
85Tom's Way2 *
86Diamond Solitaire3 *
87Portland Snowshine3+ *
 JACUZZI BOULDER 
89Twisting by the Pool6a *
90Shades of the Deep6a *
91Jaws6a
92Reservoir Dogfish6a *
 TRIPLE SLABS 
94RetractionVD
95My Little Buddha2+ *
96Slabtastic3 *
97Suburban Dave3 *
98Sketchtastic3+ *
99The Mystical GillVS 4b *
100The Erogenous StoneVS 4b *
101Mystic CrackD
102A Nugget of Purest Green4a
103Vertical Thrill4a *
104The Bolt Factory4c *
105Last Suitcase Before the HolocaustE1 5b *
 FALLEN SLAB 
107Six Good Biceps4c **
108Losing My Sad Tomato6c *
109Broken TrailVD
110Le Cranium Cassé6a+ *
111Fallen Slab Arête3 ***
112Fallen Slab3 ***
113Right Hand RouteVD
 FALLEN SLAB BEACH BOULDERS 
115Shelly3
116Banana Sambuca4c
117Love Handles5a
118Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking3
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06