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Blacknor South Dorset, ENGLAND
Climbs 111 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.
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South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)
Climbs at this crag
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. It is planned to turn this site into a visitor’s car park in the near future. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. From the car park walk to the cliff-top quarry just beyond the main cliff-top path. Scramble down here past a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry. This brings you out below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer vertigo
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!|
D Berry - 17/May/06