Blacknor South

Climbs 113 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 36m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SACRED ANGEL AREA  
2BlockheadHS 4b *6
3Dirty Cow7a *17
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *60
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *94
6Talk6a+ **606
7Toe the Line6b **421
8Reunion6a+ 22
9Sacred Angel7a **223
10String of PearlsHVS 4c 4
11Pining for Glossop7a **106
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *67
13Love in the Mist6a 169
14The DevilHVS 5b 9
15Draper's Henchmen7a+ 19
16Oblivion is Forever6c *122
17EquinoxE2 5c 1
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *38
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *199
20Well Done Poppet5a *657
21Do Ixtlan4c *718
22Eating Bush5a 70
23Princess Bolting3+ 83
24Imperfect3+ *710
25Jutland4a 129
26Lifeline6a+ *441
27It's My Life5a *804
28Beware of the Rungis5c 20
29Pedagogy6a 20
 MEDUSA FALLS AREA  
31There's Something To Bite On6a *1
32The Lizard of Oz6a+ **538
33Snakes Alive6b *76
34Slither7a+ *9
35Medusa Falls7a ***299
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer annak

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06