Blacknor South

Climbs 113 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 36m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Approach notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2BlockheadHS 4b *6
3Dirty Cow7a *18
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *60
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *95
6Talk6a+ **618
7Toe the Line6b **431
8Reunion6a+ 22
9Sacred Angel7a **228
10String of PearlsHVS 4c 4
11Pining for Glossop7a **106
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *68
13Love in the Mist6a 176
14The DevilHVS 5b 9
15Draper's Henchmen7a+ 19
16Oblivion is Forever6c *123
17EquinoxE2 5c 1
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *41
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *201
20Scoup5a 6
21Well Done Poppet5a *667
22Do Ixtlan4c *734
23Eating Bush5a 79
24Princess Bolting3+ 86
25Imperfect3+ *714
26Jutland4a 135
27Lifeline6a+ *447
28It's My Life5a *817
29Beware of the Rungis5c 22
30Pedagogy6a 21
32There's Something To Bite On6a *2
33The Lizard of Oz6a+ **541
34Snakes Alive6b *77
35Slither7a+ *9
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Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06