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These details were last updated on 02/Jun/2014

Blacknor South

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 110 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 36m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
25 kph

1.0mm rain
Cloudy
18 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 SACRED ANGEL AREA  
2BlockheadHS 4b *6
3Dirty Cow7a *17
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *53
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *88
6Talk6a+ **535
7Toe the Line6b **371
8Reunion6a+ 19
9Sacred Angel7a **196
10String of PearlsHVS 4c 4
11Pining for Glossop7a **95
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *64
13Love in the Mist6a *128
14The DevilHVS 5b 8
15Draper's Henchmen7a+ 18
16Oblivion is Forever6c *111
17EquinoxE2 5c 1
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *38
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *187
20Well Done Poppet5a *612
21Do Ixtlan4c *654
22Eating Bush5a 50
23Princess Bolting3+ 45
24Imperfect3+ *665
25Jutland4a 93
26Lifeline6a+ *417
27It's My Life5a *753
28Beware of the Rungis5c 14
29Pedagogy6a 13
 MEDUSA FALLS AREA  
31The Lizard of Oz6a+ **501
32Snakes Alive6b *71
33Slither7a+ *9
34Medusa Falls7a ***274
35To Wish the Impossible7a ***228
36Psychosomatic Addict7a+ **56
37Crack My Bitch Up6b *113
38Kamikaze Moped7a *25
39The Oldest Profession7a **43
40Loose Cannon7a **40
41Turned to Stone6c+ ***148
42Skids of Mark7b *17
43Bum Droplets6b+ **74
44Cut Throat Jake6b **108
45Cute Ass7a *27
46No Ifs, No Butts6c *22
47Seaman Stains6c *13
48Hello Sailor6c *6
49Master Bates6b+ *37
50Kite Marks7a *6
51Captain Pugwash6c+ *18
52Roger the Cabin Boy6b+ *29
53The Black Pig7b *7
54Still My Bleeding Heart6a+ 25
 SHARBUTTS QUARRY  
56Sunseeker2+ 108
57Meatjam6a+ 42
58Sunset Sessions6c+ 40
59Sunny Side Up5a 66
60Don't Kill Me4a 193
 Climb nameGradex
61Vertically Challenged3 214
62Sunny Delight3 172
63Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun3 173
64The Mighty Bush4c 135
65Casting at the Sun5a 68
66Memories of Blue5a 50
 LUNAR PARK  
68Solar Flare3+ *41
69Sun Spot5a *24
70Sea of Tranquillity3 *41
71Moonshine3 *69
72Walking on the Moon4a *28
73Dark Side of the Moon4a *62
74Lunar Eclipse2 *67
75Half Moon2+ *34
76Full Moon5c *43
 DIAMOND BOULDERS  
78The Hardye Girls7a 18
79Rough Diamond4a *162
80Diamond Geezer5a *347
81Diamond Boulder4a **374
82Diamond Edge4a *295
83Tom's Way2 *14
84Diamond Solitaire3 *177
85Portland Snowshine3+ *171
 JACUZZI BOULDER  
87Twisting by the Pool6a *4
88Shades of the Deep6a *6
89Jaws6a 6
90Reservoir Dogfish6a *5
 TRIPLE SLABS  
92RetractionVD 9
93My Little Buddha2+ *468
94Slabtastic3 *450
95Suburban Dave3 *379
96Sketchtastic3+ *270
97The Mystical GillVS 4b *104
98The Erogenous StoneVS 4b *54
99Mystic CrackD 22
100A Nugget of Purest Green4a 136
101Vertical Thrill4a *259
102The Bolt Factory4c *302
103Last Suitcase Before the HolocaustE1 5b *36
 FALLEN SLAB  
105Six Good Biceps4c **512
106Losing My Sad Tomato6c *57
107Broken TrailVD 16
108Le Cranium Cassé6a+ *191
109Fallen Slab Arête3 ***1219
110Fallen Slab3 ***1028
111Right Hand RouteVD 18
 FALLEN SLAB BEACH BOULDERS  
113Shelly3 3
114Banana Sambuca4c 3
115Love Handles5a 4
116Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking3 4
117Ohhh Kaya *6c 3
118Evie's Constance *5c *6
119Do Lxtlan *4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14

All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12

The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11

Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06