Blacknor South

Climbs 113 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 36m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SACRED ANGEL AREA  
2BlockheadHS 4b *6
3Dirty Cow7a *17
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *56
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *91
6Talk6a+ **552
7Toe the Line6b **384
8Reunion6a+ 19
9Sacred Angel7a **203
10String of PearlsHVS 4c 4
11Pining for Glossop7a **100
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *65
13Love in the Mist6a 139
14The DevilHVS 5b 9
15Draper's Henchmen7a+ 18
16Oblivion is Forever6c *112
17EquinoxE2 5c 1
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *38
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *190
20Well Done Poppet5a *621
21Do Ixtlan4c *666
22Eating Bush5a 51
23Princess Bolting3+ 49
24Imperfect3+ *668
25Jutland4a 95
26Lifeline6a+ *420
27It's My Life5a *761
28Beware of the Rungis5c 17
29Pedagogy6a 16
 MEDUSA FALLS AREA  
31The Lizard of Oz6a+ **504
32Snakes Alive6b *73
33Slither7a+ *9
34Medusa Falls7a ***274
35To Wish the Impossible7a ***234
36Psychosomatic Addict7a+ **56
37Crack My Bitch Up6b *113
38Kamikaze Moped7a *25
39The Oldest Profession7a **44
40Loose Cannon7a **40
41Turned to Stone6c+ ***150
42Skids of Mark7b *17
43Bum Droplets6b+ **76
44Cut Throat Jake6b **109
45Cute Ass7a *27
46No Ifs, No Butts6c *22
47Seaman Stains6c *13
48Hello Sailor6c *7
49Master Bates6b+ *38
50Kite Marks7a *6
51Captain Pugwash6c+ *19
52Roger the Cabin Boy6b+ *29
53The Black Pig7b *7
54Still My Bleeding Heart6a+ 25
 SHARBUTTS QUARRY  
56Sunseeker2+ 113
57Meatjam6a+ 43
58Sunset Sessions6c+ 40
59Sunny Side Up5a 70
60Don't Kill Me4a 196
61Vertically Challenged3 222
62Sunny Delight3+ 176
63Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun3+ 179
64The Mighty Bush4c 136
65Casting at the Sun5a 71
66Memories of Blue5a 53
67Ohhh Kaya6c 4
68Evie's Constance5c *7
 LUNAR PARK  
70Solar Flare3+ *42
71Sun Spot5a *24
72Sea of TranquillityS *42
73Moonshine3 *70
74Walking on the Moon4a *29
75Dark Side of the Moon4a *62
76Lunar Eclipse2 *68
77Half Moon2+ *35
78Full Moon5c *43
 DIAMOND BOULDERS  
80The Hardye Girls6c+ 19
81Rough Diamond4a *171
82Diamond Geezer5a *355
83Diamond Boulder4a **379
84Diamond Edge4a *303
85Tom's Way2 *15
86Diamond Solitaire3 *180
87Portland Snowshine3+ *174
 JACUZZI BOULDER  
89Twisting by the Pool6a *4
90Shades of the Deep6a *6
91Jaws6a 6
92Reservoir Dogfish6a *5
 TRIPLE SLABS  
94RetractionVD 9
95My Little Buddha2+ *474
96Slabtastic3 *455
97Suburban Dave3 *384
98Sketchtastic3+ *273
99The Mystical Gill3+ *105
100The Erogenous StoneVS 4b *54
101Mystic CrackD 22
102A Nugget of Purest Green4a 138
103Vertical Thrill4a *261
104The Bolt Factory4c *306
105Last Suitcase Before the HolocaustE1 5b *36
 FALLEN SLAB  
107Six Good Biceps4c **516
108Losing My Sad Tomato6c *57
109Broken TrailVD 16
110Le Cranium Cassé6a+ *192
111Fallen Slab Arête3 ***1240
112Fallen Slab3 ***1049
113Right Hand RouteVD 19
 FALLEN SLAB BEACH BOULDERS  
115Shelly3 4
116Banana Sambuca4c 3
117Love Handles5a 4
118Subtitles for the Hard of Thinking3 5
119Sunday swing *3  
120Arête route *3+ *** 
121Intermediate Route *4b  
122Route between My Little Buddha & Sunday Swing *2  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06