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These details were last updated on 31/Aug/2007

Blacknor South

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1BlockheadHS 4b *2
2Dirty Cow7a *13
3Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *45
4How Now Brown Cow7a 72
5Talk6a+ **430
6Toe the Line6b **311
7Reunion6a+ 17
8Sacred Angel7a **156
9String of PearlsHVS 4c 2
10Pining for Glossop7a **73
11I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c 48
12Love In The Mist6a *71
13The DevilHVS 5b 6
14Draper's Henchmen7a+ 11
15Oblivion is Forever6b *95
16Silent but Deadly6c+ *32
17Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *162
18Well Done Poppet4+ 485
19Do Ixtlan5 554
20Eating Bush5 5
21Princess Bolting3+ 6
22Imperfect3 *549
23Jutland4 30
24Lifeline6a+ *368
25It's My Life5 *654
26The Lizard of Oz6a **418
27Snakes Alive6a+ 55
28Slither7a+ *5
29Medusa Falls7a ***214
30To Wish the Impossible7a **174
31Psychosomatic Addict7a+ **41
32Crack My Bitch Up6b *89
33Kamikaze Moped7a *19
34The Oldest Profession6c+ **37
35Loose Cannon7a *33
36Turned to Stone6c+ ***116
37Skids of Mark7b *13
38Bum Droplets6b+ *60
39Cut Throat Jake6b *85
40Cute Ass7a *22
41No Ifs, No Butts6c *19
42Seaman Stains6c *11
43Hello Sailor6c 5
44Master Bates6b+ *36
45Kite Marks7a 5
46Captain Pugwash6c+ *17
47Roger the Cabin Boy6b+ *28
48The Black Pig7b *6
49Still My Bleeding Heart6a+ 22
 LUNAR PARK  
51Solar Flare3 *30
52Sun Spot5 *16
53Sea of Tranquillity3 *28
54Moonshine3 *45
55Walking on the Moon4 *19
56Dark Side of the Moon4 *36
 Climb nameGradex
57Lunar Eclipse2 **45
58Half Moon2+ 23
59Full Moon5+ *27
 DIAMOND BOULDERS  
61Rough Diamond4 65
62Diamond Geezer5 *210
63Pete's RouteHS 3
64Diamond Boulder4 *217
65Diamond Edge4 *164
66The Hardye Girls7a 9
67Tom's Way2 *13
68Diamond Solitaire3 *110
69Portland Snowshine3+ *113
 JACUZZI BOULDER  
71Twisting by the Pool6a *3
72Shades of the Deep6a *5
73Jaws6a 4
74Reservoir Dogfish6a *4
 TRIPLE SLABS  
76RetractionVD 2
77My Little Buddha2+ *299
78Slabtastic2+ *318
79Suburban Dave3 *260
80Sketchtastic2+ *220
81The Mystical GillVS 4b *52
82The Erogenous StoneVS 4b *37
83Mystic CrackD 18
84A Nugget of Purest Green4 *87
85Vertical Thrill4 *193
86The Bolt Factory4+ *206
87Last Suitcase Before the HolocaustE1 5b *26
 FALLEN SLAB  
89Six Good Biceps4 **331
90Losing My Sad Tomato6b+ *39
91Broken TrailVD 8
92Le Cranium Casse6a+ *121
93Fallen Slab Arete3 ***706
94Fallen Slab3 ***652
95Right Hand RouteVD 11
 SHARBUTTS QUARRY  
97Sunseeker2 76
98Meatjam6a+ 30
99Sunset Sessions7a+ 28
100Sunny Side Up5 37
101Don't Kill Me4 127
102Vertically Challenged3 150
103Sunny Delight3 121
104Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun3 123
105The Mighty Bush4+ 92
106Casting at the Sun5 47
107Memories of Blue5 35
108Sunday Swing3 9
109Scoup5 31
110Hippo Bathday †VD 2
111Pret A Porter †VD 2

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. It is planned to turn this site into a visitor’s car park in the near future. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. From the car park walk to the cliff-top quarry just beyond the main cliff-top path. Scramble down here past a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry. This brings you out below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer vertigo ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06