Blacknor Far South

Climbs 61 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the best areas for quality mid to hard grade sport routes. Great for getting plenty of mileage since the routes are short and sharp rather than long, sustained and tiring.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes right Master of the Rolls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.

Some other routes at this crag have seen the ground level drop by approx. 6ft. The first bolt may be high and the start of the route may be dirty. New bolts may be added in the future.

Approach notes
All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Use the Blacknor South approach through the cliff top quarry, down a fixed rope, then follow a path south under the cliff with fixed ropes in place to the crag.

See for approach info.

Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Where's My Washboard6b+ *17
3Castle Anthrax7a *9
4An Arse With a View7a *13
5The Singing Bush7a+ **40
6Bushwhacked7a+ **26
7Chaos UK7a+ **27
8AKA UK OK7b 3
9UK Subs7a+ *24
10The Unknown Soldier6b+ **149
11Read the Small Print6b **135
12Fear the Small Print5c *14
13Fear's Younger Brother6a **347
14Ocean of Fear5c **14
15Ocean Drive6b **277
16Kendo Nagasaki7a+ **54
17Ryme Intrinseca7b **61
18The Strobolising Scyphostoma7a+ **46
19Invictus7b **7
20Kill a Gent's Tart6c+ *51
21Rag 'n' Bone Man6b *108
22Steptoe and Son6c *44
24Sparkling Bone Chamber7b *26
25Reality Bites6b+ **94
26Slumberland6a+ *26
27Slumberland Direct6b+ *54
28Nobody's Hero6c **95
29Great Barrier Reef7a+ **47
30Crown of Thorns7a+ **21
31Wax on Wheels7a+ **25
32Cerebellum6c+ *39
33Hollow Ground6b+ *41
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