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These details were last updated on 02/Apr/2011

Marmolada Group

Dolomites, ITALY

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 2128m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
The highest peak in the Dolomites, with a large glacier on it's north flank and some tremendous routes on its south face, along with some great Via Ferratas.

There are over 200 known routes on the Marmolada's south face alone. For the purposes of this page I've only added the well known classics, see the 'Marmolada South Face' guidebook for a full list! I've stuck with the grading system used in the guidebooks as due to the number of insitu pitons constantly changing it is hard to give an English trad grade.

* For a review of the South Face guidebook read Jack's article found at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2789 .

The Marmolada is also a fantastic winter venue with some excellent iceclimbs and gullys. Vernel is not to be missed! Also some great offpiste ski touring / mountaineering routes, Lydia been arguably the best.

Guidebooks
Marmolada South Face (2009), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Ghiaccio Verticale Vol2 (2006), Dolomites West and East (2005), Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 (2002),
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 MARMOLADA DI PENIA (3343M)  
2Marmolada Normal RoutePD 16
3North Flank of Marmolada di PeniaD 2
4Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF)VF4C 41
5South-West Face (Solda)VII * 
6New South PillarVI+  
7South Pillar (Micheluzzi)VI a0 ***1
8South Face (Tomasson)V- ***7
9South Face (Ombrello da Sole)VII+ * 
10South Face (Ombrello)VI  
11South Face (Sudtiroler Weg)VI a0 ** 
 MARMOLADA DI ROCCA (3309M)  
13South Face (Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi)VII- *** 
14South Face (Futura)VIII- ** 
15South Face (Moderne Zeiten, Tempi Moderni)VII+ ***5
16South Face (Vinatzer)VI+ ***8
17South Face (Messner Variation)VI+ ***4
18South Face (Olimpo)VII+ *** 
 MARMOLADA D'OMBRETA (3230M)  
 Climb nameGradex
20South Face (Via Dell'ideale)VII-  
21South Face (Fortuna)VIII- a0 *** 
22South Face (Attraverso il Pesce)VII+ a2 ***2
23South Face (Italia) VariationVIII *** 
24South Face (Conforto Crack)VI * 
25South Face (Moby Dick)VII- a0 *** 
26South Face (Don Quixote, Don Chiscotte)VI ***17
27South Face (Schwalbenschwanz, Coda di Rondine, Swallow's Tail)VI ***3
28South Face (Pisoni - Castiglioni)V *1
29South Face (Hatschi Bratschi)VI- ** 
30Colpo di Coda - Pilastro DanteVIII- ** 
 PUNTA SERAUTA (3069M)  
32Eterna Brigata, Via Eterna, Brigata Cador (VF)VF5C ***10
 WINTER CLIMBS  
34Vernel GullyWI4 *** 
35La Cometa di BouzWI5 ** 
36Trei MagiWI6 ** 
37Couloir SerautaWI5  
38Cascata della MarmoladaWI2+  
Access notes
The Marmolada can be accessed easily via the Fedai Pass from either Canazei or Caprile. During the winter it can easily be skied to from Arabba and the Sellaronda.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some good info on routes at: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/resultsearch.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=&gruppo=Marmolada&cima=&nome=&-nothing=Search
James Rushforth - 23/Mar/11