Marmolada

Climbs 200 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 2128m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
The highest peak in the Dolomites, with a large glacier on it's north flank and some tremendous routes on its south face, along with some great Via Ferratas.

There are over 200 known routes on the Marmolada's south face alone. For the purposes of this page I've only added the well known classics, see the 'Marmolada South Face' guidebook for a full list! I've stuck with the grading system used in the guidebooks as due to the number of insitu pitons constantly changing it is hard to give an English trad grade.

* For a review of the South Face guidebook read Jack's article found at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2789 .

The Marmolada is also a fantastic winter venue with some excellent iceclimbs and gullys. Vernel is not to be missed! Also some great offpiste ski touring / mountaineering routes, Lydia been arguably the best.

Access notes
The Marmolada can be accessed easily via the Fedai Pass from either Canazei or Caprile. During the winter it can easily be skied to from Arabba and the Sellaronda.

Guidebooks
The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata (2014), Marmolada South Face (2009), Classic Dolomite Climbs (2008), Ghiaccio Verticale Vol2 (2006), Dolomites West and East (2005), Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1 (2002),
Out of print: Classic Dolomite Climbs (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 MARMOLADA DI PENIA (3343M)  
2Marmolada Normal RoutePD 17
3North Flank of Marmolada di PeniaD 2
4Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF)VF4D **44
5South-West Face (Solda)VII * 
6New South PillarVI+  
7MicheluzziVI a0 ***1
8TomassonV ***8
9Ombrello da SoleVII+ * 
10OmbrelloVI  
11Sudtiroler WegVI a0 ** 
 PUNTA ROCCA (3309M)  
13Gogna, via del Cinquantenario FisiVII- *** 
14FuturaVIII- ** 
15Tempi ModerniVII+ ***6
16Vinatzer - CastiglioniVI+ ***9
17Messner DirectVI+ ***5
18OlimpoVII+ *** 
 OMBRETA (3230M)  
20Via Dell'idealeVII-  
21FortunaVIII- a0 *** 
22Attraverso il PesceVII+ a2 ***3
23South Face (Italia) VariationVIII ***1
24Conforto CrackVI * 
25Moby DickVII- a0 *** 
26Don QuixoteVI+ ***17
27Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's TailVI ***4
28Pisoni - CastiglioniV *2
29Hatschi BratschiVI- **1
30Colpo di Coda - Pilastro DanteVIII- **1
 PUNTA SERAUTA (3069M)  
32Eterna Brigata CadoreVF4D **15
 WINTER CLIMBS  
34Vernel GullyWI4 *** 
35La Cometa di BouzWI5 ** 
36Trei MagiWI6 ** 
37Couloir SerautaWI5  
38Cascata della MarmoladaWI2+  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some good info on routes at: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/resultsearch.php?lang=eng&id_tipologia=38&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=&gruppo=Marmolada&cima=&nome=&-nothing=Search
James Rushforth - 23/Mar/11