Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2128m a.s.l
Faces all

The Marmolada by night. © James Rushforth

Crag features

The highest peak in the Dolomites, with a large glacier on it's north flank and some tremendous routes on its south face, along with some great Via Ferratas.

There are over 200 known routes on the Marmolada's south face alone. For the purposes of this page I've only added the well known classics, see the 'Marmolada South Face' guidebook for a full list! I've stuck with the grading system used in the guidebooks as due to the number of insitu pitons constantly changing it is hard to give an English trad grade.

* For a review of the South Face guidebook read Jack's article found at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2789 .

The Marmolada is also a fantastic winter venue with some excellent iceclimbs and gullys. Vernel is not to be missed! Also some great offpiste ski touring / mountaineering routes, Lydia been arguably the best.

Approach notes

The Marmolada can be accessed easily via the Fedai Pass from either Canazei or Caprile. During the winter it can easily be skied to from Arabba and the Sellaronda.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Marmolada di Penia (3343m) 
2Marmolada Normal RoutePD 20
3North Flank of Marmolada di Penia
-
D 2
4Marmolada West Ridge to Punta Penia (VF)VF3D ***72
5South-West Face (Solda)
-
VII *2
6New South Pillar
-
VI+  
7Micheluzzi
-
VI a0 ***1
8TomassonV **10
9Ombrello da Sole
-
VII+ * 
10Ombrello
-
VI  
11Sudtiroler Weg
-
VI a0 ** 
 Punta Rocca (3309m) 
13Gogna, via del Cinquantenario Fisi
-
VII- ***1
14Futura
-
VIII- ** 
15Tempi ModerniVII+ ***17
16Vinatzer - CastiglioniVI+ ***10
17Messner DirectVI+ ***8
18Olimpo
-
VII+ *** 
 Ombreta (3230m) 
20Via Dell'ideale
-
VII-  
21Fortuna
-
VIII- a0 *** 
22Attraverso il PesceVII+ ***2
23South Face (Italia) VariationVIII *** 
24Conforto Crack
-
VI * 
25Moby DickVII- *** 
26Don QuixoteVI+ ***79
27Schwalbenschwanz/Swallow's TailVI ***3
28Pisoni - Castiglioni
-
V *1
29Hatschi Bratschi
-
VI- ** 
30Colpo di Coda - Pilastro Dante
-
VIII- ** 
 Punta Serauta (3069m) 
32Eterna Brigata CadoreVF4D **32
 Winter Climbs 
34Vernel GullyWI-4 *** 
35La Cometa di Bouz
-
WI-5 ** 
36Trei Magi
-
WI-6 ** 
37Couloir SerautaWI-5  
38Cascata della Marmolada
-
WI-2+  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth