Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 28m a.s.l
Faces W

Pete off 'The Right Mix' at Wallsend, F6b+ © Steve Hardy

Crag features

Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North consists of a series of small bays and walls perched above the sea. Some of the approaches are awkward since the bank below the faces is slowly slipping into the sea.

Approach notes

Wallsend North Approach (all areas up to Downhill Spiral Area) - Drive through Weston and after passing the shops, keep right down Wide Street. On the next bend turn right into Reap Lane. Continue for 500m to a bend in the road and either park on the main road, or on the road leading towards the building from Reap Lane. You can park right up near the white building if desired but there have been break-ins here. From this road head straight towards the cliff-top path then turn left (looking out) and walk on for 50m. Drop down a descent path which cuts back right and at the end of this head left underneath the Unsung Area.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds


The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea
Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15
Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since.
Pike - 06/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

 Sweet Smell of Success Area 
97My Dog's Got Fleas7b+ **4
98Poop Scoop6c **21
99Yikes Shaggy6c *3
100Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse6a *33
101Scoobydoobydoo6b *31
102Scooby Snacks7a *18
103The Heanous Quest6a+ 16
104Hen's Tooth7b 1
105Sang Froid7c **1
106So You Want to Be Happy7a+ 1
107Up on the Hill7a *15
108Hallelujah7a *14
109Old Speckled Hen6c+ *16
110Stone Cold Sober7b **15
111Stay Golden7b ***48
112Sweet Smell of Success7b ***59
113Frazzled7b ***13
114Streaky6c+ **29
115Das Boot6c+ *15
 Bladerunner Area 
117Falling with Style6b+ *20
118Screw You Hippy6a *50
119Tanya's Sex Pot6a+ 6
120Gay Dog6a+ 10
121Layback and Take It6a 11
122Blackwind, Fire and Steel6b+ 8
123Beefcake, Beefcake6a 23
124Jungle Drums6c+ 3
125Aaron the Aardvark6b+ *15
126Bladerunner6b+ **29
 Downhill Spiral Area 
128Fatal Fibre6c+ *2
129Billy Bob's Way6b+ **11
130The Man Who Wasn't There7b  
131Hate Crime7a+ *5
132Lefty Hoot 'n' Annie6c **9
133And the Boot Sails By7a *3
134Downhill Spiral7b+ **1
135Everything's Eventual6c+ *5
136By Mistake7b+ * 
137More Than a Legend7b+ *1
138Under Crimson Skies7a+ *2
139My Figure Head6c  
140The Shipping News7b * 
141Five Easy Pieces6c 2
142Laid Black6c+ *3
143Wonderful7a+ **6
144Wonder-Bra6b *9

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