Wallsend North

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 28m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

Wallsend is the largest and arguably best cliff on Portland. Wallsend North consists of a series of small bays and walls perched above the sea. Some of the approaches are awkward since the bank below the faces is slowly slipping into the sea.

Approach notes

Wallsend North Approach (all areas up to Downhill Spiral Area) - Drive through Weston and after passing the shops, keep right down Wide Street. On the next bend turn right into Reap Lane. Continue for 500m to a bend in the road and either park on the main road, or on the road leading towards the building from Reap Lane. You can park right up near the white building if desired but there have been break-ins here. From this road head straight towards the cliff-top path then turn left (looking out) and walk on for 50m. Drop down a descent path which cuts back right and at the end of this head left underneath the Unsung Area.

Access notes
Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds


The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Left Little Slapper7b+ 4
3Right Little Slapper7a+ 6
4BlackE1 5b 1
5Short Slutty Slab6b 26
6The Black Vegetable5c 24
7The Dogging Spot6c 10
8Pearl Necklace6b 8
9Passing Bi6a+ 9
10They Walked in Line7b *6
11So Hardcore7c *1
12Faith, Hop and Charity6a 31
13Short 'n Sexy6a 26
14Layback ChimneyHS 1
16Updraft5a 19
17The Gods Are Angry4c 19
18Summer Lightning6b+ 18
19Here Comes The Rain Again5c 23
20Captain's Log6b+ 26
21Voracious Animal (of the Weasel Family)3 48
22Heart Stoppingly Brutal4c 50
23RP Screamers7a *26
24Alpenglow7a+ *30
25Topsy Turvy Land7b **12
26Magnificent 77b+ **3
27Weakest to the Wall7b **11
28Compromise7b+ 5
29Resisting Mutiny7c+ *5
30 The Right Mix6b **106
31Never Lose that Feeling6b *90
32Sing Something Simple6c+ 9
33Unsung6b *98
34Come In Alone, Go Out Alone6b *58
35No Soft Option7b 4
36Dial-a-Cliché6c+ *8
37The Web6b 17
38Can't Stop the Bosch6b+ 9
39Sgt. Ford's Roving Truncheon7a 4
40Mr AngryVS 4b 1
41Twistin' My Melon ManE2 6a  
43Memories from the Fort6c 3
44Screaming Toilet FishE1 5c  
45The Price of PotatoesHVS 5a  
47Holding the Zero7a *5
48Sniper in the Brain7a *6
49Stay on Target7a 2
50Dead Man's Click7a 2
51Eternity's ToothpasteVS 4c 1
52Old Painless7a+ 4
53Useless Generation7b **7
54My Love of this Land7b **5
55Treachery7a+ *2
56Going Blank Again7a+ *7
57The Treacle Factory6a+ *60
58Alberta Balsam7a *6
59Montreal Protocol7b *11
61Cosa Nostra6a+ *73
62Acid Jazz Disco7a **46
63Eight-Bar Blues6c+ **36
64Precious to the Last7c * 
65Ecstasy7a+ * 
66Live Now, Pay Later7a+ * 
67John Craven's Jumper Contest6c *3
68The Watchmaker's Hands7c ** 
69Breakfast of Champions7b+ ** 
70Youth Body Expression Explosion7b *1
71To Hungary For Love8a **1
72So Shoot Me7a+ *1
73Lolita7b+ ** 
74Teenage Lust7b+ **1
76Miss Jones3+  
77Ledge Shufflers Delight6c *2
78Guardians of Fate5c 2
79The Highwayman6b 1
80Winter IsThe New Summer6b+ 1
81Band of Pain7a+ 2
82Excerpt from A Teenage Opera6a 1
83Like Tears in Rain6c  
84Whiter Shade Of Pale6c 1
85Love Street7a  
86The Crystal Ship6a *8
87Waiting For The Sun6a *6
88The Black Slab6b+ 2
89Justin Credible6a 2
90The Devil Came Down To Portland6b+ 1
92Up the Apples and Pears2+ 13
93Sylvia Sunset2+ 13
94Magnum Farce2+ 16
95Easy Like a Sunday Morning2+ 15
97My Dog's Got Fleas7b+ **4
98Poop Scoop6c **21
99Yikes Shaggy6c *3
100Pixie and the Milford Powerhouse6a *33
101Scoobydoobydoo6b *31
102Scooby Snacks7a *18
103The Heanous Quest6a+ 16
104Hen's Tooth7b 1
105Sang Froid7c **1
106So You Want to Be Happy7a+ 1
107Up on the Hill7a *15
108Hallelujah7a *14
109Old Speckled Hen6c+ *16
110Stone Cold Sober7b **15
111Stay Golden7b ***47
112Sweet Smell of Success7b ***58
113Frazzled7b ***13
114Streaky6c+ **29
115Das Boot6c+ *15
117Falling with Style6b+ *20
118Screw You Hippy6a *50
119Tanya's Sex Pot6a+ 6
120Gay Dog6a+ 10
121Layback and Take It6a 10
122Blackwind, Fire and Steel6b+ 8
123Beefcake, Beefcake6a 23
124Jungle Drums6c+ 3
125Aaron the Aardvark6b+ *15
126Bladerunner6b+ **29
128Fatal Fibre6c+ *2
129Billy Bob's Way6b+ **11
130The Man Who Wasn't There7b  
131Hate Crime7a+ *5
132Lefty Hoot 'n' Annie6c **9
133And the Boot Sails By7a *3
134Downhill Spiral7b+ **1
135Everything's Eventual6c+ *5
136By Mistake7b+ * 
137More Than a Legend7b+ *1
138Under Crimson Skies7a+ *2
139My Figure Head6c  
140The Shipping News7b * 
141Five Easy Pieces6c 2
142Laid Black6c+ *3
143Wonderful7a+ **6
144Wonder-Bra6b *8
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
the majority of the routes further right than eight bar blues looked to be virtually unreachable, or now very unpleasant, or both. Mostly now a big sea of muddy rubble trickling towards the sea
Toby Dunn - 04/Apr/15
Large sections of the cliffs have been covered with landslides, hence most routes are either tricky to access our costs in mud. Not sure when this occurred, but it doesn't look like there has been much traffic since.
Pike - 06/Jun/13