Wallsend South

Climbs 118 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 23m a.s.l – Faces W

Crag features

Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls of Wallsend South. The Trad Free World Area is laced with great lines which ooze atmosphere and quality.

Approach notes

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars).


Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you to Coastguard North. Walk under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. Wallsend Central is beyond.

Access notes
Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds


The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2The Bigger Piece7a+ **28
3No Place for Mambas6b **112
4Opposites Attract6c **46
5Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers6b+ *27
6Cool to be Uncool7b+ *4
7Coconut Milk7a **17
8On a Desert Island Beach7a+ **9
9Vin Chaud7a **62
10Accordions Go Crazy6b+ **50
11Basrah Blues Band6c *7
13Laughing Peter7a+ **11
14Sans Frontière6b+ *15
15Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish6c 6
16Parkhurst Dozen6c *7
17Sang Chaud7a+ ***31
18Son of Mustang Ford7a *10
19Mr. Natural7b+ **4
20Catatonic6b+ 6
21Random Texter6b+ 4
22Gravity Epiphany6c+ 3
23Moan, Moan, Moan7b+ *3
24Injury Encyclopaedia7b *3
27Michele6a+ 5
28Shape of Tomorrow6c 2
29River of Dreams7a  
30Cloud Atlas7b+ **1
31Spinal Tap7b+ * 
32Million Watt Marshalls7b+ **1
33Ariane V7b ***40
34Disintegration7b+ **1
35Zum Zeaux7b+ ***23
36Magnetic Pull7c+ ***2
37Realm of Chaos7b+ ***52
38Hombre Solaire7c **1
39Face the Truth7c **1
40A Shadow on Mankind7b+ **1
41Saskatchewan Uranium Miner7c ***6
42Troll Team Special7a+ **56
43The Pickford Files7b+ **3
44Breakbeat7b+ **12
45The Mask7b **21
46Trent Reznor7b **2
47Bevis6b 14
48Moonfleet6b+ 13
50Gossip and Drool7b *2
51Heat-stroke Groove6c+ *10
52Summer Babe7b+ *2
53Eternal Peace6c 6
54Dark Play6b 2
55The Bog Man6b+ 2
56Garstang6c+ 2
57Shibumi7a *10
58Slave State7b+ **5
59Child of Light6c+ *3
60Immaculata6c **19
61The Watchman6b ***143
62Waiting for the Barbarians6b+ **22
63Peace in the Nineties6b+ *26
64Some Velvet Morning7a *7
65Enchanted Path6c **40
66Once Upon a Time in the West6c *11
67Best Fingers Forward6c+ ***49
68Blue Faced Booby6c **53
70Tea Cakes Calling7a *25
71The Jewel of the Isle6b+ ***131
72Stalker's Zone6a+ ***236
73Trad Free World6b ***219
74Genuflection7b ***33
75Reverence7a+ ***57
76Outside the Gate7b ***23
77Halfway to Heaven7b ***35
78Straight to Hell7b+ ** 
79Organic Snail Farming7b **6
80Wave Graffiti7b+ *2
81Hawaiian Pipeline7b ***5
82Running Down a Dream7b **6
83My Two Left Feet7c+ * 
84Bob's Gold Run7a+ **6
85Fleshworld7b+ *1
86Colors7b+ ***28
87Olympus Mons7b **6
88White Unconquerable6b+ 8
89Gedge6b+ 5
90Black'll do Nicely7a+ *3
91The Empire State Arete6b+ **33
92Dogtown Skate Team7a+ **3
93Rush7b+ ** 
94Beautiful South7c+ **1
95Tarquill's Trollies6c *6
96Flipper's Revenge7a+ *4
97Walking on Sunshine7a ***16
98No Victory In Europe6c 1
100Critical Mass6b *23
101Rapid Response7a *11
102Chert Noble7a+ *2
103End of the PierE2 5a 1
104Face in the Chert6a 48
105Glamour Cat6b **82
10617897a **20
107The Bad Seeds7b ***20
108Magical Mr. Mephistopheles6c **28
109Clacichew6b *9
110Calcite Compliment6c *5
111Jazz It Up7a+ * 
112Razzamatazz7b *2
113We are Stardust4a 11
114We are Golden5c 6
115StylusHVS 5b 1
116The Great Pretender6c+ *4
117After the GoldrushE2 5c *1
118Totally FOO to You6c *2
119A Perfect Afternoon6b+ *7
120Tunnel Vision7b+ **2
121Hong Kong Phooey7c **5
122Doolittle6b+ **28
123Jane Says6b+ *24
124Relax6b+ *13
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Beaumont

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering £5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13