Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 23m a.s.l
Faces W

Relaxation Time... Wallsend © TimC123

Crag features

Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls of Wallsend South. The Trad Free World Area is laced with great lines which ooze atmosphere and quality.

Approach notes

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars).


Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you to Coastguard North. Walk under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. Wallsend Central is beyond.

Access Advice

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds


The nesting restrictions apply between routes Empire State Arete to Beautiful south - look out for on-site signing.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering £5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Bigger Piece Area 
2The Bigger Piece7a+ **28
3No Place for Mambas6b **113
4Opposites Attract6c **47
5Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers6b+ *28
6Cool to be Uncool7b+ *4
7Coconut Milk7a **17
8On a Desert Island Beach7a+ **9
9Vin Chaud7a **63
10Accordions Go Crazy6b+ **51
11Basrah Blues Band6c *8
 Mr. Natural Area 
13Laughing Peter7a+ **11
14Sans Frontière6b+ *15
15Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish6c 6
16Parkhurst Dozen6c *7
17Sang Chaud7a+ ***31
18Son of Mustang Ford7a *10
19Mr. Natural7b+ **4
20Catatonic6b+ 6
21Random Texter6b+ 4
22Gravity Epiphany6c+ 3
23Moan, Moan, Moan7b+ *3
24Injury Encyclopaedia7b *3
 Realm of Chaos Area 
27Michele6a+ 5
28Shape of Tomorrow6c 2
29River of Dreams7a  
30Cloud Atlas7b+ **1
31Spinal Tap7b+ * 
32Million Watt Marshalls7b+ **1
33Ariane V7b ***40
34Disintegration7b+ **1
35Zum Zeaux7b+ ***23
36Magnetic Pull7c+ ***2
37Realm of Chaos7b+ ***52
38Hombre Solaire7c **1
39Face the Truth7c **1
40A Shadow on Mankind7b+ **1
41Saskatchewan Uranium Miner7c ***6
42Troll Team Special7a+ **56
43The Pickford Files7b+ **3
44Breakbeat7b+ **12
45The Mask7b **21
46Trent Reznor7b **2
47Bevis6b 14
48Moonfleet6b+ 13
 The Enchanted Path Area 
50Gossip and Drool7b *2
51Heat-stroke Groove6c+ *10
52Summer Babe7b+ *2
53Eternal Peace6c 6
54Dark Play6b 2
55The Bog Man6b+ 2
56Garstang6c+ 2
57Shibumi7a *10
58Slave State7b+ **5
59Child of Light6c+ *3
60Immaculata6c **19
61The Watchman6b ***144
62Waiting for the Barbarians6b+ **22
63Peace in the Nineties6b+ *26
64Some Velvet Morning7a *7
65Enchanted Path6c **40
66Once Upon a Time in the West6c *11
67Best Fingers Forward6c+ ***49
68Blue Faced Booby6c **53
 Trad Free World Area 
70Tea Cakes Calling7a *25
71The Jewel of the Isle6b+ ***131
72Stalker's Zone6a+ ***236
73Trad Free World6b ***219
74Genuflection7b ***33
75Reverence7a+ ***57
76Outside the Gate7b ***23
77Halfway to Heaven7b ***35
78Straight to Hell7b+ **1
79Organic Snail Farming7b **7
80Wave Graffiti7b+ *3
81Hawaiian Pipeline7b ***5
82Running Down a Dream7b **6
83My Two Left Feet7c+ * 
84Bob's Gold Run7a+ **6
85Fleshworld7b+ *1
86Colors7b+ ***28
87Olympus Mons7b **6
88White Unconquerable6b+ 8
89Gedge6b+ 5
90Black'll do Nicely7a+ *3
91The Empire State Arete6b+ **33
92Dogtown Skate Team7a+ **3
93Rush7b+ ** 
94Beautiful South7c+ **1
95Tarquill's Trollies6c *6
96Flipper's Revenge7a+ *4
97Walking on Sunshine7a ***16
98No Victory In Europe6c 1
 Hong Kong Phooey Area 
100Critical Mass6b *23
101Rapid Response7a *11
102Chert Noble7a+ *2
103End of the Pier
E2 5a 1
104Face in the Chert6a 48
105Glamour Cat6b **87
10617897a **20
107The Bad Seeds7b ***20
108Magical Mr. Mephistopheles6c **28
109Clacichew6b *12
110Calcite Compliment6c *9
111Jazz It Up7a+ * 
112Razzamatazz7b *2
113We are Stardust4a 11
114We are Golden5c 6
HVS 5b 1
116The Great Pretender6c+ *4
117After the Goldrush
E2 5c *1
118Totally FOO to You6c *2
119A Perfect Afternoon6b+ *7
120Tunnel Vision7b+ **2
121Hong Kong Phooey7c **5
122Doolittle6b+ **29
123Jane Says6b+ *24
124Relax6b+ *13

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