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These details were last updated on 31/Aug/2007

Wallsend South


Climbs 117 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces W

Crag features
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls of Wallsend South. The Trad Free World Area is laced with great lines which ooze atmosphere and quality.

Access notes
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you to Coastguard North. Walk under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. Wallsend Central is beyond.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

0.0mm rain
19 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
20 °C
28 kph

0.0mm rain
20 °C
27 kph

4.1mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
22 kph

1.9mm rain
19 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
2The Bigger Piece7a+ **27
3No Place for Mambas6b **99
4Opposites Attract6c **39
5Mick Lovatt Stole My Trousers6b+ *25
6Cool to be Uncool7b+ *4
7Coconut Milk7a **17
8On a Desert Island Beach7a+ **8
9Vin Chaud7a ***55
10Accordions Go Crazy6b+ **45
11Basrah Blues Band6c *7
12Laughing Peter7a+ **11
13Sans Frontière6b+ *13
14Charlton Mackeral, the World's Strongest Fish6c 6
15Parkhurst Dozen6c *5
16Sang Chaud7a+ ***26
17Son of Mustang Ford7a *10
18Mr. Natural7b+ **4
19Catatonic6b+ 6
20Random Texter6b+ 4
21Gravity Epiphany6c+ 3
22Moan, Moan, Moan7b+ 3
23Injury Encyclopaedia7b *3
24Will7b * 
25Michele6a+ 4
26Shape of Tomorrow6c  
27River of Dreams7a  
28Cloud Atlas7b+ * 
29Spinal Tap7b+ * 
30Million Watt Marshalls7b **1
31Ariane V7b **27
32Disintegration7b+ 1
33Zum Zeaux7b+ ***21
34Magnetic Pull7c+ ***2
35Realm of Chaos7b+ ***42
36Hombre Solaire7c **1
37Face the Truth7c ** 
38A Shadow on Mankind7b+ 1
39Saskatchewan Uranium Miner7c ***4
40Troll Team Special7b **48
41The Pickford Files7b+ 2
42Breakbeat7b+ **12
43The Mask7b **15
44Trent Reznor7b *2
45Bevis6b *13
46Moonfleet6b *12
47Gossip and Drool7b *2
48Heat-stroke Groove6c+ *10
49Summer Babe7b+ *2
50Eternal Peace6c *6
51Dark Play6b 2
52The Bog Man6b+ 2
53Garstang6c+ 2
54Shibumi7a *10
55Slave State7b+ **5
56Child of Light6c+ 3
57Immaculata6c+ *17
58The Watchman6b ***121
59Waiting for the Barbarians6c 18
60Peace in the Nineties6b+ *24
 Climb nameGradex
61Some Velvet Morning7a 7
62Enchanted Path6b+ **38
63Once Upon a Time in the West6c *11
64Best Fingers Forward6c **39
65Blue Faced Booby6c **50
66Tea Cakes Calling7a *24
67The Jewel of the Isle6b+ ***102
68Stalker's Zone6a+ ***201
69Trad Free World6b ***187
70Genuflection7b ***28
71Reverence7a+ ***44
72Outside the Gate7b ***20
73Halfway to Heaven7b ***27
74Organic Snail Farming7b **6
75Wave Graffiti7b+ *2
76Hawaiian Pipeline7b *5
77Running Down a Dream7b **6
78My Two Left Feet7c+ * 
79Bob's Gold Run7a+ *6
80Fleshworld7b+ **1
81Colors7b+ ***25
82Olympus Mons7b **6
83White Unconquerable6b+ *8
84Gedge6b+ *5
85Black'll do Nicely7a+ *2
86The Empire State Arete6b+ **33
87Dogtown Skate Team7a+ ***3
88Rush7b+ ** 
89Beautiful South7c **1
90Tarquill's Trollies6c *6
91Flipper's Revenge7a+ *4
92Walking on Sunshine7a **16
94No Victory In Europe6c 1
95Critical Mass6b *21
96Rapid Response7a *11
97Chert Noble7a+ *2
98End of the PierE2 5a 1
99Face in the Chert6a *44
100Glamour Cat6b **69
10117897a *18
102The Bad Seeds7b **17
103Magical Mr. Mephistopheles6c *27
104Clacichew6b 9
105Calcite Compliment6c 5
106Jazz It Up7a+ * 
107Razzamatazz7b *2
108We are Stardust4a 6
109We are Golden5c 3
110StylusHVS 5b 1
111The Great Pretender6c+ *3
112After the GoldrushE2 5c *1
113Totally FOO to You6c *1
114A Perfect Afternoon6b+ 7
115Tunnel Vision7b+ *2
116Hong Kong Phooey7c **5
117Doolittle6b+ *28
118Jane Says6b+ *23
119Relax6b+ *13
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering 5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!
hms - 21/Sep/13

No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13