Wallsend South Dorset, ENGLAND
Climbs 117 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces W
Some of the biggest and best routes on Portland are situated on the huge walls of Wallsend South. The Trad Free World Area is laced with great lines which ooze atmosphere and quality.
Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you to Coastguard North. Walk under this, past a gully, to reach Wallsend South. Wallsend Central is beyond.
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South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Beaumont
Parking at Portland Bill costs an eye-watering £5.50. Rockfax reckon the walk-in to Trad Free World is 20 mins. With heavy rucksacks, the boulder-hopping took us well over an hour. It would only be 20 mins if skipping along with no kit and knowing exactly where you were going!|
hms - 21/Sep/13
No free space for parking that i could find, only space is labelled stay for an hour only, assuming this has changed recently?
Graham Booth - 14/Jun/13