UKC

Climbs 2
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2665m a.s.l
Faces all

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Höch Turm from the north-east, near pt 2148m © rlrs

Crag features

An elegant tooth on the Braunwald skyline, Höch Turm is steep from all aspects, correspondingly difficult and nevertheless popular. The summit relents to allow a relaxed appreciation of the magnificent Glarner Alpen panorama.

The west ridge appears as most viable weakness, and it is along this that the normal route finishes with 100m of exposed, steady and not unpleasant scrambling and easy climbing, despite the less than reliable rock. The ridge however is only gained by harder climbing, UIAA II, on either of two bands on the north-west wall, traversing from east to west. This applies to the approach from the north east along the ridge from Flätstock, while access to the ramps can also be gained from the extension of the west ridge itself coming over the Gross and Chli Chilchberg (itself a substantial route). The unviability of a third band (the most westerly) has been emphasised with the installation on the wall of an (in)appropriate traffic sign.

Many trip reports and photos are found on the excellent hikr.org, including from the SAC guidebook author P. Straub. Harder routes exist on the north-east ridge, the east face and from the Ortstock-Furggele to the south-east.

Approach notes

Funicular railway required from Linthal to access Braunwald (1256m), then cable car (gondola) to Gumen (1900m) available. Accommodation at Gumen and the Ortstockhaus (1770m) also available.

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