Coastguard South

Climbs 85 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Approach notes
Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Dorset (2012), South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Rude Not To5a 13
3My Lovely Joey5a 14
4The Tail of Two EndsF6b+ 9
5Jog on DorisF4+ 20
6Chalkings of a MadmanF6a 19
7Climb It Like You Stole ItF6b 13
8Where's Pablo's Phone?F6a+ 11
9Rigor TortoiseF6b+ 10
10A Time of GiftsF4 13
11Old Tom BombadilF5 8
12Embrace of an Endless OceanF5+ 9
13Diving for PearlsF6b+ 4
15Seat of Learning7c * 
16The Font of Knowledge7c ** 
17Biscuits for Smut7b **9
18Reactor Meltdown7b+ ** 
19Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)6c+ ***5
20Guardian Angel7b+ **2
21Brooklyn Bimbo7b+ **3
23From a Buick Eight7b *2
24New York Dolls6a+ **36
25The Devil's Work6b+ 4
26Marshalling Amps7b * 
27BroadwayE3 5c  
28Manhattan Skyline6c **1
29Skyscraper7a *2
30H'electric Boogaloo6b **20
31The Bronx6c+ **10
32Easy CleftHS 4a 1
33American Beauty6c **11
34California Dreams6b+ *4
36September Mourning7b ** 
37Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
38Screaming Skulls7c *** 
39Tennessee7c ***17
40Darkest Before Dawn7b *1
41Actions Speak Louder7a+ *2
42L'Odyssee Noire6c+ **12
43Xavier's Wall6a ***167
44Coming of Age6a **149
45Underage6a ***168
46Xavier Zoo6a **70
47Young at Heart6a+ **75
48What Gives, My Son?E3 5c *3
50Wavewatch7b *2
51Full Fathom Five7b **11
52Bad Moon Rising7a ***24
53A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **20
54Dead by Sunset7b *3
55Witchdoctor7b * 
56Vampire Killers7b * 
57The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
58No Survivors7b+  
59A Meeting of Minds7a+  
60Lip Service7a *5
61Bermuda Triangle6c **12
62A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
63Hasta La Vista6b+ *3
65Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
66Smashing Orange7a **6
67Drive Blind7a **5
68Forensic Scene7a+ **3
69Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***12
70Red Medicine7b+ ***1
71Aeon Flux7b ** 
72Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a **8
73Forget Columbus7a+ ***18
74Buried Violence7b+ ** 
75Walking the King6b+ ***85
76An Ideal for Living7a+ **4
77Time Bomb7a **9
79Winning at Rodeo7a ***19
80Chevette de la Mer6b **22
81Swimsuit Issue6c+ *5
82Xistenz7a+ *3
83Razor LaughE1 5b * 
84Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
85Space Shanty6b **13
86Astra Blaze6c **7
87Come In and Burn7b **2
88Azymuth7a+ **4
89L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **4
90Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
91Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
92Birthday Present7b+  
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11