Climbs 86
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Xavier's wall area on Portland last weekend © tony4433

Crag features

Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Approach notes

Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

32The Bronx6c+ **10
33Easy Cleft
-
HS 4a 1
34American Beauty6c **11
35California Dreams6b+ *4
 Xaviers Wall Area 
37September Mourning7b ** 
38Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
39Screaming Skulls7c ***6
40Tennessee7c ***19
41Darkest Before Dawn7b *1
42Actions Speak Louder7a+ *2
43L'Odyssee Noire6c+ **15
44Xavier's Wall6a ***227
45Coming of Age6a **184
46Underage6a ***228
47Xavier Zoo6a **97
48Young at Heart6a+ **93
49What Gives, My Son?E3 5c *3
 Bad Moon Rising Area 
51Wavewatch7b *4
52Full Fathom Five7b **14
53Bad Moon Rising7a ***28
54A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **21
55Dead by Sunset7b *3
56Witchdoctor7b * 
57Vampire Killers7b * 
58The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
59No Survivors7b+  
60A Meeting of Minds7a+  
61Lip Service7a *5
62Bermuda Triangle6c **12
63A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
64Hasta La Vista6b+ *5
 Quick as Rainbows Area 
66Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
67Smashing Orange7a **10
68Drive Blind7a **10
69Forensic Scene7a+ **3
70Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***27
71Red Medicine7b+ ***8
72Aeon Flux7b ** 
73Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a **11
74Forget Columbus7a+ ***18
75Buried Violence7b+ ** 
76Walking the King6b+ ***133
77An Ideal for Living7a+ **6
78Time Bomb7a **9
 Azymuth Area 
80Winning at Rodeo7a ***20
81Chevette de la Mer6b **24
82Swimsuit Issue6c+ *7
83Xistenz7a+ *3
84Razor LaughE1 5b * 
85Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
86Space Shanty6b **15
87Astra Blaze6c **8
88Come In and Burn7b **2
89Azymuth7a+ **4
90L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **4
91Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
92Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
93Birthday Present7b+  

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