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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SY 676691 (OS Landranger #194)

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These details were last updated on 25/May/2009

Coastguard South

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 73 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Weather forecast

 Today  Mon  Tue  Wed  Thu 
     
Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Seat of Learning7c * 
2The Font of Knowledge7c ** 
3Biscuits for Smut7b **7
4Reactor Meltdown7b ** 
5Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)6c+ ***3
6Guardian Angel7b+ **2
7Brooklyn Bimbo7b+ **2
8From a Buick Eight7b *2
9New York Dolls6a+ **29
10The Devil's Work6b+ *4
11Marshalling Amps7b * 
12BroadwayE3 5c  
13Manhattan Skyline6c **1
14Skyscraper7a *2
15H'electric Boogaloo6b *14
16The Bronx6c+ *6
17American Beauty6c **9
18California Dreams6b+ *3
19September Mourning7b ** 
20Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
21Screaming Skulls7c *** 
22Tennessee7c ***4
23Darkest Before Dawn7b * 
24Actions Speak Louder7a+ * 
25L'Odyssee Noire6c 5
26Xavier's Wall6a **86
27Coming of Age6a **96
28Underage6a **88
29Xavier Zoo6a *49
30Young at Heart6a+ **57
31What Gives, My Son?6b+ *3
32Wavewatch7b *1
33Full Fathom Five7b ***7
34Bad Moon Rising7a+ **18
35A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **15
36Dead by Sunset7b *2
 Climb nameGradex
37Witchdoctor7b * 
38Vampire Killers7b * 
39The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
40No Survivors7b+  
41A Meeting of Minds7a+  
42Lip Service7a *4
43Bermuda Triangle6c **9
44A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
45Hasta La Vista6b+ *2
46Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ * 
47Smashing Orange7a **4
48Drive Blind7a+ **4
49Forensic Scene7a+ **2
50Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***7
51Red Medicine7b+ *** 
52Aeon Flux7b ** 
53Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a *3
54Forget Columbus7a ***11
55Buried Violence7b+ ** 
56Walking the King6b+ ***49
57An Ideal for Living7a+ **1
58Time Bomb7a **6
59Winning at Rodeo7a ***12
60Chevette de la Mer6b **14
61Swimsuit Issue6c+ *3
62Xistenz7a+ *2
63Razor LaughE1 5b * 
64Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
65Space Shanty6b **9
66Astra Blaze6c *4
67Come In and Burn7b **2
68Azymuth7a+ **3
69L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **3
70Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
71Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
72Birthday Present7b+  
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Access notes
Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman ? - 22/Apr/11