Climbs 85
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Xavier's wall area on Portland last weekend © tony4433

Crag features

Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Approach notes

Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

32Easy Cleft
HS 4a 1
33American Beauty6c **11
34California Dreams6b+ *4
 Xaviers Wall Area 
36September Mourning7b ** 
37Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
38Screaming Skulls7c ***6
39Tennessee7c ***19
40Darkest Before Dawn7b *1
41Actions Speak Louder7a+ *2
42L'Odyssee Noire6c+ **14
43Xavier's Wall6a ***217
44Coming of Age6a **182
45Underage6a ***218
46Xavier Zoo6a **92
47Young at Heart6a+ **85
48What Gives, My Son?E3 5c *3
 Bad Moon Rising Area 
50Wavewatch7b *4
51Full Fathom Five7b **14
52Bad Moon Rising7a ***28
53A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **20
54Dead by Sunset7b *3
55Witchdoctor7b * 
56Vampire Killers7b * 
57The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
58No Survivors7b+  
59A Meeting of Minds7a+  
60Lip Service7a *5
61Bermuda Triangle6c **12
62A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
63Hasta La Vista6b+ *5
 Quick as Rainbows Area 
65Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
66Smashing Orange7a **7
67Drive Blind7a **10
68Forensic Scene7a+ **3
69Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***27
70Red Medicine7b+ ***8
71Aeon Flux7b ** 
72Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a **11
73Forget Columbus7a+ ***18
74Buried Violence7b+ ** 
75Walking the King6b+ ***95
76An Ideal for Living7a+ **6
77Time Bomb7a **9
 Azymuth Area 
79Winning at Rodeo7a ***20
80Chevette de la Mer6b **24
81Swimsuit Issue6c+ *7
82Xistenz7a+ *3
83Razor LaughE1 5b * 
84Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
85Space Shanty6b **15
86Astra Blaze6c **8
87Come In and Burn7b **2
88Azymuth7a+ **4
89L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **4
90Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
91Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
92Birthday Present7b+  

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