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View larger mapGrid Ref SY 676691 (OS Landranger #194)

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These details were last updated on 25/May/2009

Coastguard South

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 73 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.0mm rain
Sun
13 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
20 kph

0.3mm rain
Sun
11 °C
31 kph

10.4mm rain
Cloudy
12 °C
29 kph

1.0mm rain
Cloudy
8 °C
35 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Seat of Learning7c * 
2The Font of Knowledge7c ** 
3Biscuits for Smut7b **8
4Reactor Meltdown7b ** 
5Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)6c+ ***3
6Guardian Angel7b+ **2
7Brooklyn Bimbo7b+ **2
8From a Buick Eight7b *2
9New York Dolls6a+ **34
10The Devil's Work6b+ *4
11Marshalling Amps7b * 
12BroadwayE3 5c  
13Manhattan Skyline6c **1
14Skyscraper7a *2
15H'electric Boogaloo6b *16
16The Bronx6c+ *6
17Easy CleftHS 4a 1
18American Beauty6c **9
19California Dreams6b+ *3
20September Mourning7b ** 
21Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
22Screaming Skulls7c *** 
23Tennessee7c ***5
24Darkest Before Dawn7b * 
25Actions Speak Louder7a+ * 
26L'Odyssee Noire6c 6
27Xavier's Wall6a **109
28Coming of Age6a **112
29Underage6a **110
30Xavier Zoo6a *53
31Young at Heart6a+ **59
32What Gives, My Son?6b+ *3
33Wavewatch7b *1
34Full Fathom Five7b ***9
35Bad Moon Rising7a+ **21
36A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **17
37Dead by Sunset7b *3
 Climb nameGradex
38Witchdoctor7b * 
39Vampire Killers7b * 
40The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
41No Survivors7b+  
42A Meeting of Minds7a+  
43Lip Service7a *4
44Bermuda Triangle6c **9
45A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
46Hasta La Vista6b+ *3
47Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
48Smashing Orange7a **6
49Drive Blind7a+ **5
50Forensic Scene7a+ **3
51Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***10
52Red Medicine7b+ ***1
53Aeon Flux7b ** 
54Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a *5
55Forget Columbus7a ***15
56Buried Violence7b+ ** 
57Walking the King6b+ ***63
58An Ideal for Living7a+ **2
59Time Bomb7a **8
60Winning at Rodeo7a ***17
61Chevette de la Mer6b **17
62Swimsuit Issue6c+ *4
63Xistenz7a+ *3
64Razor LaughE1 5b * 
65Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
66Space Shanty6b **11
67Astra Blaze6c *6
68Come In and Burn7b **2
69Azymuth7a+ **3
70L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **3
71Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
72Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
73Birthday Present7b+  
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Access notes
Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11