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These details were last updated on 25/May/2009

Coastguard South


Climbs 85 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Access notes
Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
17 °C
22 kph

3.5mm rain
16 °C
26 kph

0.0mm rain
18 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
17 °C
34 kph

5.4mm rain
15 °C
43 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Rude Not To5a 5
2My Lovely JoeyF5 5
3The Tail of Two EndsF6b+ 5
4Jog on DorisF4+ 7
5Chalkings of a MadmanF6a 7
6Climb It Like You Stole ItF6b 5
7Where's Pablo's Phone?F6a+ 5
8Rigor TortoiseF6b+ 6
9A Time of GiftsF4 7
10Old Tom BombadilF5 6
11Embrace of an Endless OceanF5+ 5
12Diving for PearlsF6b+ 2
14Seat of Learning7c * 
15The Font of Knowledge7c ** 
16Biscuits for Smut7b **8
17Reactor Meltdown7b ** 
18Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)6c+ ***4
19Guardian Angel7b+ **2
20Brooklyn Bimbo7b+ **2
22From a Buick Eight7b *2
23New York Dolls6a+ **36
24The Devil's Work6b+ *4
25Marshalling Amps7b * 
26BroadwayE3 5c  
27Manhattan Skyline6c **1
28Skyscraper7a *2
29H'electric Boogaloo6b *19
30The Bronx6c+ *9
31Easy CleftHS 4a 1
32American Beauty6c **11
33California Dreams6b+ *4
35September Mourning7b ** 
36Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
37Screaming Skulls7c *** 
38Tennessee7c ***16
39Darkest Before Dawn7b *1
40Actions Speak Louder7a+ *2
41L'Odyssee Noire6c 10
42Xavier's Wall6a **139
43Coming of Age6a **135
44Underage6a **138
45Xavier Zoo6a *61
46Young at Heart6a+ **70
 Climb nameGradex
47What Gives, My Son?6b+ *3
49Wavewatch7b *1
50Full Fathom Five7b ***10
51Bad Moon Rising7a+ **23
52A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **19
53Dead by Sunset7b *3
54Witchdoctor7b * 
55Vampire Killers7b * 
56The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
57No Survivors7b+  
58A Meeting of Minds7a+  
59Lip Service7a *4
60Bermuda Triangle6c **11
61A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
62Hasta La Vista6b+ *3
64Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
65Smashing Orange7a **6
66Drive Blind7a+ **5
67Forensic Scene7a+ **3
68Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***10
69Red Medicine7b+ ***1
70Aeon Flux7b ** 
71Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a *6
72Forget Columbus7a ***18
73Buried Violence7b+ ** 
74Walking the King6b+ ***74
75An Ideal for Living7a+ **4
76Time Bomb7a **9
78Winning at Rodeo7a ***18
79Chevette de la Mer6b **19
80Swimsuit Issue6c+ *5
81Xistenz7a+ *3
82Razor LaughE1 5b * 
83Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
84Space Shanty6b **11
85Astra Blaze6c *6
86Come In and Burn7b **2
87Azymuth7a+ **4
88L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **4
89Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
90Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
91Birthday Present7b+  
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nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11