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These details were last updated on 25/May/2009

Coastguard South


Climbs 85 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces W

Crag features
Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

Access notes
Small permanent restriciton on the far south area. NO CLIMBING from 1 March to 31 July because of nesting bird watchers.

Drive through Southwell to the southern end of the island. Park at a small layby just before the Pulpit Inn (room for about 8 cars). DO NOT PARK ON THE ROAD LEADING UP THE HILL. Walk up the private road and head outwards towards the Lookout (now manned in case of emergency). Go down a grass slope behind to the cliff edge then drop down a steep and precarious path onto a promontory (staple in place if needed). This brings you out below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. To reach Coastguard South continue down to the boulder beach then double back left and scramble over a boulder jumble to the more level platform beyond. It is possible once acquainted with the area to cut back south along a grass bank from the promontory and then drop down a short series of rock steps onto the platform about 50m from Grip '89 Area.

Weather forecast

 Today  Tue  Wed  Thu  Fri 

0.0mm rain
17 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
17 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
22 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
25 kph

1.0mm rain
18 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012), Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Rude Not To5a 5
2My Lovely JoeyF5 5
3The Tail of Two EndsF6b+ 5
4Jog on DorisF4+ 7
5Chalkings of a MadmanF6a 7
6Climb It Like You Stole ItF6b 5
7Where's Pablo's Phone?F6a+ 5
8Rigor TortoiseF6b+ 6
9A Time of GiftsF4 7
10Old Tom BombadilF5 6
11Embrace of an Endless OceanF5+ 5
12Diving for PearlsF6b+ 2
13Seat of Learning7c * 
14The Font of Knowledge7c ** 
15Biscuits for Smut7b **8
16Reactor Meltdown7b ** 
17Grip '89 (Audi 80 vs the Law)6c+ ***4
18Guardian Angel7b+ **2
19Brooklyn Bimbo7b+ **2
20From a Buick Eight7b *2
21New York Dolls6a+ **36
22The Devil's Work6b+ *4
23Marshalling Amps7b * 
24BroadwayE3 5c  
25Manhattan Skyline6c **1
26Skyscraper7a *2
27H'electric Boogaloo6b *19
28The Bronx6c+ *9
29Easy CleftHS 4a 1
30American Beauty6c **11
31California Dreams6b+ *4
32September Mourning7b ** 
33Wharfedale Boyz7c * 
34Screaming Skulls7c *** 
35Tennessee7c ***16
36Darkest Before Dawn7b *1
37Actions Speak Louder7a+ *2
38L'Odyssee Noire6c 10
39Xavier's Wall6a **139
40Coming of Age6a **135
41Underage6a **138
42Xavier Zoo6a *61
43Young at Heart6a+ **70
 Climb nameGradex
44What Gives, My Son?6b+ *3
45Wavewatch7b *1
46Full Fathom Five7b ***10
47Bad Moon Rising7a+ **23
48A Ship Load of Moonies6c+ **19
49Dead by Sunset7b *3
50Witchdoctor7b * 
51Vampire Killers7b * 
52The Lost Buoys7c+ * 
53No Survivors7b+  
54A Meeting of Minds7a+  
55Lip Service7a *4
56Bermuda Triangle6c **10
57A Bird in the Hand7a+ 1
58Hasta La Vista6b+ *3
59Small Talk Costs Walls6c+ *1
60Smashing Orange7a **6
61Drive Blind7a+ **5
62Forensic Scene7a+ **3
63Quick as Rainbows7a+ ***10
64Red Medicine7b+ ***1
65Aeon Flux7b ** 
66Under the Sky, Inside the Sea7a *6
67Forget Columbus7a ***18
68Buried Violence7b+ ** 
69Walking the King6b+ ***73
70An Ideal for Living7a+ **3
71Time Bomb7a **8
72Winning at Rodeo7a ***17
73Chevette de la Mer6b **18
74Swimsuit Issue6c+ *5
75Xistenz7a+ *3
76Razor LaughE1 5b * 
77Hell RazorE3 5b/c * 
78Space Shanty6b **11
79Astra Blaze6c *6
80Come In and Burn7b **2
81Azymuth7a+ **3
82L'Esprit du Vent7a+ **3
83Down to the Wire7b+ ** 
84Dawn of a New Age7b+ ** 
85Birthday Present7b+  
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nesting bird watchers?!
Perryman - 22/Apr/11