White Hole

Climbs 72 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features

This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good little routes with an atmosphere which belies their size. The rock is solid but also extremely rough and it can be a bit tough on the fingers. The recent development of Memories Zawn has added another dimension to the area with some committing routes and solos requiring blind approach abseils into tight zawns. Overall White Hole is a small but worthwhile area with a lot of variety and grade spread. Forgotton Wall - there is a hidden bay of fine vertical rock situated below the fence and path into the mirthmaid wall. 6 boulder problems have been established all on solid rock but high top outs. Easy to identify as there is a footramp to start the route 'These Waters'. Landings ok but mat essential.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and either park by the lighthouse (not free) or back at the Coastguard parking before the Pulpit Inn. From the lighthouse parking walk west (right - looking out) next to a fence and above an old quarry, for 300m. Turn right at the cliff-top and follow the fence. The South Cliff is just below the top after 20m. Mirthmaid Area is the large square-cut prow further into the bay. It is reached by following the fence closely past a creek, before dropping down onto a large rock platform. To reach Memories Zawn continue from the rock platform along a narrow cliff-top ledge that runs right (looking out) around a square cut zawn to a narrow rift beneath the weird conglomerate rock bridge. More details are given with the route pages for the approaches from the cliff-top.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Second Attention6c+  
3Crossing the Boundaries of Affection7a+ *1
4Kinaesthesia7a+ ***1
5Intricacies of Dreaming7b **1
6Memories6a+ *4
7Hung, Swung and Zawned OutE2 5b **2
8ParaphiliasE5 6a *1
9AphasiaE3 5b 1
10The Drill Sergeant6c+ * 
11Until the End of Man7a ** 
12Karate Kid6a+ 5
13Bar, Bar, Black Sheep6c+ *1
14Excalibur's Edge6b+ **1
15The Labyrinth7b * 
16One Life7b **1
17Faceache7b ** 
18The Code Breaker and the French Teacher7a+ *1
19Obscene Gesture (Part 2)7a+ * 
20The Skin Trade7a+ *1
22Sad Young Biscuits7a+  
23Dead in Europe7a+ * 
24Splendid Isolation6c *5
25Just for a DayE4 6a *2
26Mirthmaid7a+ * 
27Nightmirth7c * 
28Sister of NightE5 6b ** 
29Any Last Requests?E4 5c  
30Spanish AirE3 5b  
31Tiny Smiles7a+  
32Totally StokedHVS 5a  
33Route 12E3 5c 1
34Route 13E2 5b 1
35Get Some Air, Fatso!E1 5b * 
36Route 15E3 6a  
37Route 16E3 5c *1
38True to the GameE3 6a  
39Dragon's LairVS 4a 6
40Route 19E2 5c 1
41Route 20E2 5c 1
42Route 21E2 5c 1
44Evening Delight4a 3
45Song of the Sea5c 1
46Balance of Power8a **2
47The Pipers of Portland6c * 
48Funnel Web6b *2
49End of Season Sale6b  
50The Reign of Steel6b+ *3
51Red Raw7a+ 1
52Tickled Pink7c *2
53Wafer Thin6b *13
54Run, Rabbit, Run6b+ 16
55Staple Diet6b *24
56Painted Lady6a+ 28
57The Feather6c 11
58Rust Never Sleeps6a 7
59The Cruel Sea5c 39
60Adonis Blue6b+ 22
61Chalk-hill Blue6a+ *26
63Different SoulsV1 **2
64Crack of Doomf6C **1
65Vert Rampf6B+ *2
66Raised Beatchf6A+ *4
67White Hole Slabf6A *4
68Portland Dirt Bedf4 4
69Cherty Freshwater Memberf6A *2
70Toe Pokef6C+ **1
71White Hole Aretef5+ **4
72Six Strings AttatchedV2 *2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The fence mentinoed in the description now includes a barrier preventing easy access to the routes on the promontary. Nowadays, one must scramble along ledges to the back of the zawn and make a scary pull across a narrow (but deep) gap.
Steve Taylor - 30/Sep/03