Climbs 72
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SW

Disappearing ball of gas , White hole , Portland Dorset 17.45 hrs 24.03.11 © LaMentalist

Crag features

This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good little routes with an atmosphere which belies their size. The rock is solid but also extremely rough and it can be a bit tough on the fingers. The recent development of Memories Zawn has added another dimension to the area with some committing routes and solos requiring blind approach abseils into tight zawns. Overall White Hole is a small but worthwhile area with a lot of variety and grade spread. Forgotton Wall - there is a hidden bay of fine vertical rock situated below the fence and path into the mirthmaid wall. 6 boulder problems have been established all on solid rock but high top outs. Easy to identify as there is a footramp to start the route 'These Waters'. Landings ok but mat essential.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and either park by the lighthouse (not free) or back at the Coastguard parking before the Pulpit Inn. From the lighthouse parking walk west (right - looking out) next to a fence and above an old quarry, for 300m. Turn right at the cliff-top and follow the fence. The South Cliff is just below the top after 20m. Mirthmaid Area is the large square-cut prow further into the bay. It is reached by following the fence closely past a creek, before dropping down onto a large rock platform. To reach Memories Zawn continue from the rock platform along a narrow cliff-top ledge that runs right (looking out) around a square cut zawn to a narrow rift beneath the weird conglomerate rock bridge. More details are given with the route pages for the approaches from the cliff-top.

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The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
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More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
The fence mentinoed in the description now includes a barrier preventing easy access to the routes on the promontary. Nowadays, one must scramble along ledges to the back of the zawn and make a scary pull across a narrow (but deep) gap.
Steve Taylor - 30/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

25Just for a DayE4 6a *2
26Mirthmaid7a+ * 
27Nightmirth7c * 
28Sister of NightE5 6b ** 
29Any Last Requests?E4 5c  
30Spanish AirE3 5b  
31Tiny Smiles7a+  
32Totally Stoked
HVS 5a  
33Route 12
E3 5c 1
34Route 13
E2 5b 1
35Get Some Air, Fatso!
E1 5b * 
36Route 15
E3 6a  
37Route 16
E3 5c *1
38True to the Game
E3 6a  
39Dragon's Lair
VS 4a 6
40Route 19
E2 5c 1
41Route 20
E2 5c 1
42Route 21
E2 5c 1
 South Cliff 
44Evening Delight4a 3
45Song of the Sea5c 1
46Balance of Power8a **2
47The Pipers of Portland6c * 
48Funnel Web6b *2
49End of Season Sale6b  
50The Reign of Steel6b+ *3
51Red Raw7a+ 1
52Tickled Pink7c *2
53Wafer Thin6b *13
54Run, Rabbit, Run6b+ 16
55Staple Diet6b *24
56Painted Lady6a+ 28
57The Feather6c 11
58Rust Never Sleeps6a 7
59The Cruel Sea5c 39
60Adonis Blue6b+ 22
61Chalk-hill Blue6a+ *27
 White Hole Bouldering 
63Different Soulsf5 **2
64Crack of Doomf6C **1
65Vert Rampf6B+ *2
66Raised Beatchf6A+ *4
67White Hole Slabf6A *4
68Portland Dirt Bedf4 4
69Cherty Freshwater Memberf6A *2
70Toe Pokef6C+ **1
71White Hole Aretef5+ **4
72Six Strings Attatchedf5+ *2

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