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These details were last updated on 18/Feb/2013

White Hole

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 63 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SW

Crag features
This area of relatively short cliffs near Portland Bill has a set of good little routes with an atmosphere which belies their size. The rock is solid but also extremely rough and it can be a bit tough on the fingers. The recent development of Memories Zawn has added another dimension to the area with some committing routes and solos requiring blind approach abseils into tight zawns. Overall White Hole is a small but worthwhile area with a lot of variety and grade spread.

Forgotton Wall - there is a hidden bay of fine vertical rock situated below the fence and path into the mirthmaid wall. 6 boulder problems have been established all on solid rock but high top outs. Easy to identify as there is a footramp to start the route 'These Waters'. Landings ok but mat essential.

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Second Attention6c+  
2Crossing the Boundaries of Affection7a+ * 
3Kinaesthesia7a+ ***1
4Intricacies of Dreaming7b **1
5Memories6a+ *3
6Hung, Swung and Zawned OutE2 5b **2
7ParaphiliasE5 6a *1
8AphasiaE3 5b 1
9The Drill Sergeant6c+ * 
10Until the End of Man7a ** 
11Karate Kid6a+ 2
12Bar, Bar, Black Sheep6c+ * 
13Excalibur's Edge6b+ ** 
14The Labyrinth7b * 
15One Life7b **1
16Faceache7b ** 
17The Code Breaker and the French Teacher7a+ *1
18Obscene Gesture (Part 2)7a+ * 
19The Skin Trade7a+ *1
20Sad Young Biscuits7a+  
21Dead in Europe7a+ * 
22Splendid Isolation6c *5
23Just for a DayE4 6a *1
24Mirthmaid7a+ * 
25Nightmirth7c * 
26Sister of NightE5 6b ** 
27Any Last Requests?E4 5c  
28Spanish AirE3 5b  
29Tiny Smiles7a+  
30Totally StokedHVS 5a  
31Route 12E3 5c 1
32Route 13E2 5b 1
 Climb nameGradex
33Get Some Air, Fatso!E1 5b * 
34Route 15E3 6a  
35Route 16E3 5c *1
36True to the GameE3 6a  
37Dragon's LairVS 4a 5
38Route 19E2 5c 1
39Route 20E2 5c 1
40Route 21E2 5c 1
41Balance of Power8a **2
42The Pipers of Portland6c * 
43Funnel Web6a+ *2
44End of Season Sale6b  
45The Reign of Steel6b+ 3
46Red Raw7a+ 1
47Tickled Pink7c *2
48Wafer Thin6b 11
49Run, Rabbit, Run6b+ 15
50Staple Diet6b 21
51Painted Lady6a+ 25
52The Feather6c 10
53The Cruel Sea6a 38
54Adonis Blue6b+ 19
55Chalk-hill Blue6a+ 24
56Rust never sleeps *6a 3
57Six Strings Attatched *V2 *1
58These Waters *V3 ***1
59Esmeralda *V1 *1
60Oates in the water *V2 *1
61Until another morning *V0+ 1
62Different Souls *V1 **1
63Song of the Sea *5+ 1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Drive to Portland Bill and either park by the lighthouse (not free) or back at the Coastguard parking before the Pulpit Inn. From the lighthouse parking walk west (right - looking out) next to a fence and above an old quarry, for 300m. Turn right at the cliff-top and follow the fence. The South Cliff is just below the top after 20m. Mirthmaid Area is the large square-cut prow further into the bay. It is reached by following the fence closely past a creek, before dropping down onto a large rock platform. To reach Memories Zawn continue from the rock platform along a narrow cliff-top ledge that runs right (looking out) around a square cut zawn to a narrow rift beneath the weird conglomerate rock bridge. More details are given with the route pages for the approaches from the cliff-top.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Weedon ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The fence mentinoed in the description now includes a barrier preventing easy access to the routes on the promontary. Nowadays, one must scramble along ledges to the back of the zawn and make a scary pull across a narrow (but deep) gap.
Steve Taylor - 30/Sep/03