Lighthouse Area

Climbs 374 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Access notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WARM-UP WALL  
2Entirely at Your Own Riskf5 2
3Liable to Give Wayf3 *2
4No Liabilityf5+ *2
5The Signs of the Timesf5 *2
6The Warning Signs Were Theref5+ *2
7Early Warning Signsf3 *2
8Stinkmataf6A **2
9Iron Curtainsf7A+ **1
10Groove Leftf5+ *2
11Groove Rightf5+ *2
12Writer's Blockf5+ 2
13Block and Tacklef4+ 2
14Blockbusterf5+ *2
15Blockheadf4 2
16Breeze Blockf4 2
17Jenga Masterf5+ *2
18Road Blockf4 2
 PULPIT OVERHANG  
20Flake Escapef6A *1
21Rock-over Prolapsef6B+ * 
22Sunset Sessionsf4 *1
23Work Sucksf4+ *1
24Earth Shadowf6A ***1
25Analemmaf6B+ *1
26Azimuthf5+ *1
27Winkle Pickerf7A ***1
28Winkle Picker Directf7B *** 
29Forced Widef4 *1
30Easy Groovef3 1
31The Undateablesf6A *1
32Date Nightf6C+ ***1
33Double Datef6C ***1
34Time Lapsef6B **1
35Flying Aretef6A *1
36Bent Pigeon6c S0 * 
37Clarence6c *1
 PULPIT ROCK  
39Tombstonin'...E3 6a *2
40End of the Land...E4 5c * 
41The Good of SleepE1 5a 2
42ChymerieHVS 4c *1
43Edge of BeyondHVS 5c *8
44Bleating Nincompoops4c 5
45Rapture of the DeepHVS 5b **10
46Swirling PoolHVS 5a *5
 UNDERCUT BUTTRESS  
48Exhibitionismf5 *1
49A Public Spectaclef4 *1
50Roll Up, Roll Upf5+ *1
51Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-startf6A *1
52Don't Look Johnnyf4 *1
53Tourist Attractionf5 *1
54Curtain Callf4 *1
55Back Stagef6A  
56Exit Stage Leftf6C **1
57Exit Stage Rightf6B+ ** 
 WORKING CLASS BOULDER  
59Working Class Manf4+ *2
60Twerking Classf5 *1
 SWISS CHEESE WALL  
62Cheese Slickf5+ **2
63Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keysf4+ *2
64Reblochonf4 *1
65Emmentalerf4+ *2
66Sbrinzf3 *1
67Gruyèref5 *1
68Schabzigerf6A *1
69Appenzellerf4+ **2
70Bündner Bergkäsef5+ **2
71Mutschlif5+ *1
72Raclettef5+ *1
73Tête de Moinef4+ *1
74Fribourgeoisf4+ 1
75Tilsiterf3 1
76Mont d'Orf4+ 1
77Formagginif4+ *1
78Limburgerf3 *1
 OBELISK WALL  
80Terror Tacticsf4+ 12
81Kiss and Tellf6A *2
82The Poxley Pocketf6B *1
83Penny Lanef4+ *12
84Stake Through the Heartf6A 9
85Ground Hogg Dayf6A 3
86Willow's Crackf4+ **12
87Angel Dustf4+ ***16
88Batarangf6A * 
89Buffy's Groovef5 ***13
90Bladef6B ***8
91Vampire killersf5+ **11
92Silver Bulletf3 16
93Sea Sprayf4+ *16
94Trinity Slabf5 *1
95Trinity Wallf3 *1
96Trinity Right-handf4+ *1
 BOULDER COVE  
98Three Blind Spicef6B *1
99Old Spicef6B+ **1
100Five Spicef6C **1
101Twice as Spicef6B *1
102Spice Squadf6A *1
103Naughty but Spicef5+ *1
104The Spice Presidentf5+ 1
105Of Spice and Menf4 1
106Sharpe's Goldf4 *1
107Sharpe's Siegef6C *1
108Sharpe's Perilf5+ *1
109Sharpe's Peril, Sit-startf6A+ *1
110Sharpe's Eaglef5+ *1
111Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-startf6A+ 1
112Sharpe's Swordf4 1
113Sharpe's Sword, Sit-startf4+ 1
 PROMONTORY ROOF  
115Promontory Aretef4 1
116Promontory Groovef3 1
117Little Rooff4+ *1
118Riders on the Stormf7C+ *** 
119Devil Facef7A *1
120Well Hungf7B+ *** 
121Children of Poseidonf8A *** 
122Force Majeuref7B ***1
123Hoffman's Proceduref7A+ ** 
124Promontory Cornerf4+ *1
125Promontory Flakef5+ *1
126Promontory Slabf5+ 1
 LIGHTHOUSE BEACH  
128Fraggle Rockf3 *1
129Uncle Travelling Mattf5+ 1
130Mokey Fragglef4 *1
131Boober Fragglef4+ *1
132Gobo Fragglef5 *1
133Wembley Fragglef5+ *1
134Red Fragglef4 *1
135Gnat's Chufff4+ *1
136Lighthouse Flakef3 *1
137Indecisionf6A *1
138Indecision, Sit-startf6B+ ***1
139Cross Courtf6A **2
140Foghorn Leghornf5+ 2
141Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-startf6C *2
142Guiding Lightf5+ 2
143Keep Your Light On for Mef5 2
144Cold Light of Dayf4+ 2
145Light Clubf3 2
146Miller Lightf3 2
 CAFE COVE  
148Cheesy Chipsf5+ *1
149Carrot Soupf6A *1
150Ploughman's Groovef4+ *1
151Clotted Creamf4+ *1
152Cheese Boardf5+ *1
153Sunday Roastf5 **1
154Light Bitef5 *1
155Crab Sandwichesf5+ **1
156Dorset Cream Teaf5 *1
157Left Craven for Moref5+ 1
 HIDDEN COVE  
159Keep Your Anemones Closerf6A  
160Sworn Anemonef6C ** 
161Once More For The Cameraf5+ *8
162Cut, It's a Wrapf6A+ * 
163Champagne Breakfastf4+  
164Low Bulge Traversef6B+ ** 
165Sponsorship Scamf4 1
166Not Worth the Licence Feef5 1
167Gone for Lunchf4+ 1
168Cube Routef6A *1
169Mr Bicesterf7A+ *** 
170Mrs Bicesterf6A 1
171Mr and Mrsf7A ** 
172Waste Pipef3 1
173Skid Markf6A *13
174Guru Petef5+ *17
175Warm-up Traversef4+ *2
176Youth Of Todayf4+ 12
177Loaded Questionsf5+ *13
178Hip and Trendyf5+ 17
179The Hidden Traversef6C+ ** 
180The Hidden Wallf6B+ ***9
181The Hidden Nichef6A+ **17
182The Hidden Linkf6B+ **1
183The Hidden Eliminatef6B+ **9
184The Hidden Crackf6B **12
185The Hidden Groovef5 *1
186The Hidden Escapef5+ *20
187The Hidden Alternativef6A *1
188The Hidden Rooff5+ ***16
189The Hidden Jumpf5+ **15
190The Hidden Cornerf6A *1
191The Unhidden Flakef5 *1
192The Unhidden Wallf6A **1
193 The Scary Roof TraverseV2 *10
194 Buffery's NoseV2 3
195 Country FileV0 14
196 Marsh BeautyV1 11
197 MarshmallowV0 6
198 Adams TriumphV2 14
 BARREL ZAWN  
200Barrel Zawn Traversef7B *1
201Eranuf7A * 
202Uvarvuf7A+ * 
203Barrel Rollf7A *1
204Barrel Groovef6C+ *1
205Cooper Trooperf6B+ *1
206Half Measuresf6B+ * 
207The Barrelf7A **3
208Over a Barrelf6B *5
209Under a Barrelf6C+ * 
210Ramplinef5+ **9
211Corner Laybackf4+ 6
212Deviantf6B 3
213Cornflakef3+ 10
214Hanging Slabf5+ ** 
215Hanging Slab Rightf4+ * 
216Barrel Zawn Aretef6C ** 
217The Flake Escapef6C *2
 MUGLEY'S PLAIN  
219First Aretef6A *1
220Mugley Ducklingf4+ 1
221First Cornerf4 1
222Mugley's Slotf4+ *1
223Up and Overf3 2
224Second Aretef4 2
225Second Arete, Sit-startf5 *1
226Second Arete Rightf4 3
227Second Arete Right, Sit-startf4+ *3
228Rusty Wallf4+ *4
229Rusty Wall, Sit-startf5 *3
230Classic Flakef4 *4
231Mugley's Scoopf5+ 4
232Descent Crackf3 4
233The Good, the Bad, and the Mugleyf5 4
234Second Cornerf5+ 4
235Third Aretef5 *4
236Streaky Wallf6A 3
237Mystery Boltf6A+ 2
238Third Cornerf4 **5
239Fourth Aretef4 4
240Fourth Arete, Sit-startf5 4
241Central Slabf3 4
242Fourth Cornerf3 4
243Fifth Aretef3 4
244Mind the Gapf5 4
245Mugley's Rampf5+ **4
246Mugley's Ramp, Sit-startf6A **5
247Mugley's Crackf4 *4
248Layawaysf4+ *4
249Mugley's Intermittent Flakef4+ *4
250Mugley's Big Flakef4 4
251Head Flakef4 4
252Fifth Cornerf3 4
253Sixth Aretef6B+ *2
254Sixth Cornerf3 2
255Mugley Bettyf5+ 2
256Mugley's Flakef3 *2
257Flake Outf4+ *2
258CH Groovef5+ *2
259CH Groove, Sit-startf6A+ *2
260Mugley's Ribf6B+ *1
261Mugley's Rib, Sit-startf6B+ 2
262Mugley's Groovef6A *2
263Mugley's Groove, Sit-startf6A 2
264High Edgef5+ *1
265High Edge, Sit-startf6B *1
266Mugley's Wallf5+ *1
267Mugley's Wall, Sit-startf6A *1
268Seventh Aretef4 *2
269Mugley Uggf4  
270Eighth Aretef5+ * 
271Mugley As Sinf3  
272First and Lastf5 * 
 DEEP ZAWN  
274White PonyV2 9
275The World's Best MonoV5 *5
276Salty Sea Dog7a+ **1
277Sugar Daddy7a+ *26
278All Things Being Relative6a+ 65
279Relativity6a+ 35
280The Red Crane Traverse5a **165
281Red Crane Wall6a 48
282Wall of Squares6a 55
 RED CRANE WALL  
284Red Crane Groovef5 1
285Red Crane Groove, Sit-startf6A 1
286Red Crane Arete Leftf6B **1
287Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-startf6C+ **1
288Red Crane Aretef6A **1
289Red Crane Arete, Sit-startf6B+ **1
290Red Crane Flakef5+ **1
291Red Crane Flake, Sit-startf6A ***1
292Red Crane Eliminatef6A *1
293Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-startf6B+ **1
294Red Crane Cornerf3 1
295Red Crane Notchf4+ *1
296Red Crane Notch, Sit-startf5+ 1
297No Notchf5+ *1
298No Notch, Sit-startf6A *1
299Red Crane Crackf4+ *1
300Red Crane Crack, Sit-startf5+ *1
301Stepped Aretef3 *1
302Stepped Arete, Sit-startf4 *1
303No Aretef3 *1
304No Arete, Sit-startf6A *1
305Wide Groovef4 *1
306Wide Groove, Sit-startf6A *1
307Right Wallf6A 1
308Right Wall, Sit-startf6B+ 1
309The Pacifierf4+ *1
310The Pacifier, Sit-startf6A **1
311Moment in Timef3 *1
312Chronostasisf5 *1
313Maniaf4+ *1
314Dissociative Amnesiaf3 *1
315Parallax Shiftf4+ 1
316Temporal Vortexf4 *1
317On European Timef3 *1
318Losing Timef3 1
 HARDY'S CORNER  
320Slopey Traversef6A ***1
321Left Wall Traversef6A+ **1
322Full Traversef6B+ **1
323Magic Carpetf6A 1
324Ninety Degreesf4+ **1
325Set Squaref5+ *2
326Le Crunchf6A *1
327Hardy's Cornerf3 *2
328Parallelismf6A *1
329Pythagorasf6A *1
330Hardy's Wallf5 *1
331Hardy's Crackf4 **1
332Brutal Hardyf6B *1
333Hardy Laid Backf6A+ *1
334Melting Pointf5+ *1
335Right Wall Traversef6B+ *1
 LITTLE ZAWN  
337Against the Clockf5+ *1
338The Keyf6A 1
339Meter Revengef6A+ *1
340Zero Tractionf6A *1
341Amphidromic Systemf6A *1
342Tide Linef4+ *1
343Storm Surgef6B+ 1
344Salt Water Intrusionf5+ 1
345Nadirf6A+ *1
346Zenithf6A+ *1
347Syzygyf6A 1
348Apogeef5+ 1
349Perigeef5+ *1
350Ebb and Flowf4 *1
 POM POM BEACH  
352Nemean Lionf4  
353Lernaean Hydraf5+ * 
354Golden Hind of Artemis.f6A+ ** 
355Erymanthian Boarf5+ * 
356Augean Stablesf4+ ** 
357Stymphalian Birdsf4+  
358Cretan Bullf4+ * 
359Mares of Diomedesf6A  
360Girdle of Hippolytaf6A+ ** 
361Geryonf6A * 
362Hesperidesf3 * 
363Cerberusf4+ * 
 SECTOR POM POM  
365El Scorchio6c *1
366Maximum Grrr...7b * 
367The Favourite GameVD 2
368L'Eau Profile7c * 
369Private Dancer6b  
370Jug City4a 1
371Jugalicious3 3
372Matt's Dilemma3 14
373Games Without Frontiers4a 7
374The Dog's Bollocks6a 10
375Time and Tide4c 6
376Thirty Years YoungE3 6b 1
377Burbage Belle7c * 
378The Big Blue7c+ ** 
379Ninth Wave7a+ *3
380Zimmerframe with Attitude7c 1
381The O'lympets6c+ 1
382The WavebandV9 ***1
383Honorary Froggatt7b+ *1
384Pocketful of Shells7b  
385A Girl of the Limberlost6b 1
386The TemptressE1 6a 2
387Island SpellVS 2
388Flake CrackD 2
389The Huts Have Eyes6a+ 2
390Somewhere West of Laramie6a+ 1
391Not in Kansas Anymore6a+ 2
392MermaidD 2
393Beautiful Losers *VS 1
394Hidden in Reverse *V1 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11