Climbs 384
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

Sam jumping End of Land © redsteve

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Approach notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Warm-up Wall 
2Entirely at Your Own Riskf5 6
3Liable to Give Wayf3 *6
4No Liabilityf5+ *5
5The Signs of the Timesf5 *9
6The Warning Signs Were Theref5+ *9
7Early Warning Signsf3 *7
8Stinkmataf6A **7
9Iron Curtainsf7A+ **2
10Groove Leftf5+ *3
11Groove Rightf5+ *4
12Unblockedf5+ **3
13Writer's Blockf5+ 5
14Block and Tacklef4+ 6
15Blockbusterf5+ *8
16Blockheadf4 7
17Breeze Blockf4 5
18Jenga Masterf5+ *6
19Road Blockf4 7
 Pulpit Overhang 
21Flake Escapef6A *2
22Rock-over Prolapsef6B+ * 
23Sunset Sessionsf4 *2
24Work Sucksf4+ *2
25Earth Shadowf6A ***4
26Analemmaf6B+ *1
27Azimuthf5+ *4
28Winkle Pickerf7A ***1
29Winkle Picker Directf7B *** 
30Pickled Winkyf6C+ **1
31Pickled Winky, Sit startf7A **1
32Portland's Heelf6A+ 1
33Forced Widef4 *2
34Easy Groovef3 2
35The Undateablesf6A *2
36Date Nightf6C+ ***7
37Double Datef6C ***2
38Time Lapsef6B **3
39 Flying Aretef6A *1
40Bent Pigeon
-
6c S0 * 
41Clarence6c *1
 Pulpit Rock 
43Tombstonin'...
-
E3 6a *3
44End of the Land...
-
E4 5c * 
45The Good of Sleep
-
E1 5a 2
46Chymerie
-
HVS 4c *1
47Edge of Beyond
-
HVS 5c *9
48Bleating Nincompoops
-
4c 5
49Rapture of the Deep
-
HVS 5b **11
50Swirling Pool
-
HVS 5a *5
 Undercut Buttress 
52Exhibitionismf5 *1
53A Public Spectaclef4 *1
54Roll Up, Roll Upf5+ *1
55Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-startf6A *1
56Don't Look Johnnyf4 *1
57Tourist Attractionf5 *1
58Curtain Callf4 *1
59Back Stagef6A  
60Exit Stage Leftf6C **2
61Exit Stage Rightf6B+ ** 
 Working Class Boulder 
63Working Class Manf4+ *3
64Twerking Classf5 *3
 Swiss Cheese Wall 
66Cheese Slickf5+ **4
67Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keysf4+ *4
68Reblochonf4 *2
69Emmentalerf4+ *4
70Sbrinzf3 *3
71Gruyèref5 *2
72Schabzigerf6A *1
73Appenzellerf4+ **3
74Bündner Bergkäsef5+ **3
75Mutschlif5+ *1
76Raclettef5+ *2
77Tête de Moinef4+ *2
78Fribourgeoisf4+ 1
79Tilsiterf3 2
80Mont d'Orf4+ 2
81Formagginif4+ *2
82Limburgerf3 *2
 Obelisk Wall 
84Terror Tacticsf4+ 12
85Kiss and Tellf6A *2
86The Poxley Pocketf6B *2
87Penny Lanef4+ *12
88Stake Through the Heartf6A 10
89Ground Hogg Dayf6A 3
90Willow's Crackf4+ **15
91Angel Dustf4+ ***25
92Batarangf6A *2
93Buffy's Groovef5 ***22
94Bladef6B ***11
95Vampire killersf5+ **14
96Silver Bulletf3 17
97Sea Sprayf4+ *18
98Trinity Slabf5 *4
99Trinity Wallf3 *4
100Trinity Right-handf4+ *3
 Boulder Cove 
102Three Blind Spicef6B *1
103Old Spicef6B+ **1
104Old Spice, Sit Startf6C **1
105Five Spicef6C **2
106Twice as Spicef6B *1
107Spice Squadf6A *1
108Naughty but Spicef5+ *1
109The Spice Presidentf5+ 1
110Of Spice and Menf4 2
111Sharpe's Goldf4 *2
112Sharpe's Siegef6C *1
113Sharpe's Perilf5+ *1
114Sharpe's Peril, Sit-startf6A+ *3
115Sharpe's Eaglef5+ *1
116Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-startf6A+ 5
117Sharpe's Swordf4 2
118Sharpe's Sword, Sit-startf4+ 4
119Sharpe's Traversef6B **1
 Promontory Roof 
121Promontory Aretef4 2
122Promontory Groovef3 2
123Little Rooff4+ *3
124Riders on the Stormf7C+ ***1
125Devil Facef7A *6
126Devil Forcef7B+ ***1
127Well Hungf7B+ ***1
128Children of Poseidonf8A *** 
129Hungoverf7B ***1
130Force Majeuref7B ***12
131Hoffman's Proceduref7A+ **2
132Hoffmajeuref6C+ ***3
133Promontory Cornerf4+ *3
134Promontory Flakef5+ *3
135Promontory Slabf5+ 2
 Lighthouse Beach 
137Fraggle Rockf3 *5
138Uncle Travelling Mattf5+ 4
139Mokey Fragglef4 *5
140Boober Fragglef4+ *6
141Gobo Fragglef5 *5
142Wembley Fragglef5+ *5
143Red Fragglef4 *6
144Gnat's Chufff4+ *4
145Lighthouse Flakef3 *7
146Indecisionf6A *11
147Indecision, Sit-startf6B+ ***10
148Cross Courtf6A **9
149Foghorn Leghornf5+ 9
150Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-startf6C *3
151Guiding Lightf5+ 4
152Keep Your Light On for Mef5 4
153Cold Light of Dayf4+ 3
154Light Clubf3 4
155Miller Lightf3 4
 Cafe Cove 
157Cheesy Chipsf5+ *3
158Carrot Soupf6A *2
159Ploughman's Groovef4+ *4
160Clotted Creamf4+ *3
161Cheese Boardf5+ *3
162Sunday Roastf5 **3
163Light Bitef5 *2
164Crab Sandwichesf5+ **3
165Dorset Cream Teaf5 *2
166Left Craven for Moref5+ 6
 Hidden Cove 
168 Keep Your Anemones Closerf6A 1
169 Sworn Anemonef6C **1
170Once More For The Cameraf5+ *10
171Cut, It's a Wrapf6A+ *4
172Champagne Breakfastf4+ 2
173 Low Bulge Traversef6B+ **1
174Sponsorship Scamf4 7
175Not Worth the Licence Feef5 6
176Gone for Lunchf4+ 4
177Cube Routef6A *4
178Mr Bicesterf7A+ ***1
179Mrs Bicesterf6A 3
180Mr and Mrsf7A **2
181Waste Pipef3 5
182Skid Markf6A *15
183Guru Petef5+ *21
184Warm-up Traversef4+ *3
185Youth Of Todayf4+ 15
186Loaded Questionsf5+ *16
187Hip and Trendyf5+ 23
188The Hidden Traversef6C+ **1
189The Hidden Wallf6B+ ***12
190The Hidden Nichef6A+ **24
191The Hidden Linkf6B+ **1
192The Hidden Eliminatef6B+ **11
193The Hidden Crackf6B **15
194The Hidden Groovef5 *4
195The Hidden Escapef5+ *24
196The Hidden Alternativef6A *3
197The Hidden Rooff5+ ***20
198The Hidden Jumpf5+ **20
199The Hidden Cornerf6A *2
200The Unhidden Flakef5 *1
201The Unhidden Wallf6A **1
202The Scary Roof TraverseV2 *11
203 Buffery's NoseV2 3
204 Country FileV0 14
205 Marsh BeautyV1 11
206 MarshmallowV0 7
207 Adams TriumphV2 14
 Barrel Zawn 
209Barrel Zawn Traversef7B *1
210Eranuf7A * 
211Uvarvuf7A+ * 
212Barrel Rollf7A *1
213Barrel Groovef6C+ *1
214Cooper Trooperf6B+ *1
215Half Measuresf6B+ * 
216The Barrelf7A **3
217Over a Barrelf6B *5
218Under a Barrelf6C+ * 
219Ramplinef5+ **9
220Corner Laybackf4+ 6
221Deviantf6B 3
222Cornflakef3+ 10
223Hanging Slabf5+ **1
224Hanging Slab Rightf4+ *1
225Barrel Zawn Aretef6C ** 
226The Flake Escapef6C *2
 Mugley's Plain 
228First Aretef6A *2
229Mugley Ducklingf4+ 3
230First Cornerf4 4
231Mugley's Slotf4+ *2
232Up and Overf3 6
233Second Aretef4 5
234Second Arete, Sit-startf5 *2
235Second Arete Rightf4 5
236Second Arete Right, Sit-startf4+ *3
237Rusty Wallf4+ *7
238Rusty Wall, Sit-startf5 *5
239Classic Flakef4 *10
240Mugley's Scoopf5+ 7
241Descent Crackf3 15
242The Good, the Bad, and the Mugleyf5 5
243Second Cornerf5+ 7
244Third Aretef5 *7
245Streaky Wallf6A 10
246Mystery Boltf6A+ 3
247Third Cornerf4 **14
248Fourth Aretef4 12
249Fourth Arete, Sit-startf5 6
250Central Slabf3 13
251Fourth Cornerf3 15
252Fifth Aretef3 12
253Mind the Gapf5 6
254Mugley's Rampf5+ **11
255Mugley's Ramp, Sit-startf6A **9
256Mugley's Crackf4 *10
257Layawaysf4+ *9
258Mugley's Intermittent Flakef4+ *10
259Mugley's Big Flakef4 11
260Head Flakef4 10
261Fifth Cornerf3 11
262Sixth Aretef6B+ *7
263Sixth Cornerf3 8
264Mugley Bettyf5+ 10
265Mugley's Flakef3 *11
266Flake Outf4+ *8
267CH Groovef5+ *3
268CH Groove, Sit-startf6A+ *3
269Mugley's Ribf6B+ *3
270Mugley's Rib, Sit-startf6B+ 2
271Mugley's Groovef6A *5
272Mugley's Groove, Sit-startf6A 2
273High Edgef5+ *4
274High Edge, Sit-startf6B *2
275Mugley's Wallf5+ *2
276Mugley's Wall, Sit-startf6A *2
277Seventh Aretef4 *6
278Mugley Uggf4 3
279Eighth Aretef5+ *2
280Mugley As Sinf3 6
281First and Lastf5 *3
 Deep Zawn 
283White Pony
-
V2 9
284The World's Best Mono
-
V5 *5
285Salty Sea Dog7a+ **1
286Sugar Daddy
-
7a+ *29
287All Things Being Relative
-
6a+ 73
288Relativity
-
6a+ 42
289The Red Crane Traverse
-
5a **190
290Red Crane Wall
-
6a 54
291Wall of Squares
-
6a 59
 Red Crane Wall 
293Red Crane Groovef5 1
294Red Crane Groove, Sit-startf6A 1
295Red Crane Arete Leftf6B **1
296Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-startf6C+ **2
297Red Crane Aretef6A **1
298Red Crane Arete, Sit-startf6B+ **2
299Red Crane Flakef5+ **2
300Red Crane Flake, Sit-startf6A ***3
301Red Crane Eliminatef6A *1
302Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-startf6B+ **2
303Red Crane Cornerf3 5
304Red Crane Notchf4+ *2
305Red Crane Notch, Sit-startf5+ 2
306No Notchf5+ *2
307No Notch, Sit-startf6A *2
308Red Crane Crackf4+ *2
309Red Crane Crack, Sit-startf5+ *2
310Stepped Aretef3 *2
311Stepped Arete, Sit-startf4 *2
312No Aretef3 *2
313No Arete, Sit-startf6A *2
314Wide Groovef4 *2
315Wide Groove, Sit-startf6A *2
316Right Wallf6A 2
317Right Wall, Sit-startf6B+ 2
318The Pacifierf4+ *2
319The Pacifier, Sit-startf6A **2
320Moment in Timef3 *2
321Chronostasisf5 *2
322Maniaf4+ *2
323Dissociative Amnesiaf3 *2
324Parallax Shiftf4+ 2
325Temporal Vortexf4 *2
326On European Timef3 *1
327Losing Timef3 1
 Hardy's Corner 
329Slopey Traversef6A ***4
330Left Wall Traversef6A+ **3
331Full Traversef6B+ **2
332Magic Carpetf6A 6
333Ninety Degreesf4+ **7
334Set Squaref5+ *6
335Le Crunchf6A *3
336Hardy's Cornerf3 *8
337Parallelismf6A *4
338Pythagorasf6A *6
339Hardy's Wallf5 *4
340Hardy's Crackf4 **5
341Brutal Hardyf6B *7
342Hardy Laid Backf6A+ *6
343Melting Pointf5+ *4
344Right Wall Traversef6B+ *3
 Little Zawn 
346Against the Clockf5+ *2
347The Keyf6A 2
348Meter Revengef6A+ *2
349Zero Tractionf6A *1
350Amphidromic Systemf6A *1
351Tide Linef4+ *1
352Storm Surgef6B+ 1
353Salt Water Intrusionf5+ 1
354Nadirf6A+ *1
355Zenithf6A+ *2
356Syzygyf6A 3
357Apogeef5+ 1
358Perigeef5+ *1
359Ebb and Flowf4 *1
 Pom Pom Beach 
361Nemean Lionf4 1
362Lernaean Hydraf5+ *1
363Golden Hind of Artemis.f6A+ **1
364Erymanthian Boarf5+ *1
365Augean Stablesf4+ **2
366Stymphalian Birdsf4+ 1
367Cretan Bullf4+ *1
368Mares of Diomedesf6A 1
369Girdle of Hippolytaf6A+ **1
370Geryonf6A *1
371Hesperidesf3 *1
372Cerberusf4+ *1
 Sector Pom Pom 
374El Scorchio6c *1
375Maximum Grrr...7b * 
376The Favourite GameVD 2
377L'Eau Profile7c * 
378Private Dancer6b  
379Jug City4a 1
380Jugalicious3 3
381Matt's Dilemma3 14
382Games Without Frontiers4a 7
383The Dog's Bollocks6a 10
384Time and Tide4c 6
385Thirty Years Young
-
E3 6b 1
386Burbage Belle7c * 
387The Big Blue7c+ **1
388Ninth Wave7a+ *3
389Zimmerframe with Attitude7c 1
390The O'lympets6c+ 1
391The WavebandV9 ***1
392Honorary Froggatt7b+ *1
393Pocketful of Shells7b 2
394A Girl of the Limberlost6b 1
395The TemptressE1 6a 2
396Island SpellVS 2
397Flake CrackD 2
398The Huts Have Eyes6a+ 2
399Somewhere West of Laramie6a+ 1
400Not in Kansas Anymore6a+ 2
401MermaidD 2
402Beautiful LosersVS 1
403Hidden in ReverseV1 1
404The Other Side. *V4+ *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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