Lighthouse Area

Climbs 376 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Approach notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WARM-UP WALL  
2Entirely at Your Own Riskf5 4
3Liable to Give Wayf3 *3
4No Liabilityf5+ *3
5The Signs of the Timesf5 *4
6The Warning Signs Were Theref5+ *4
7Early Warning Signsf3 *3
8Stinkmataf6A **3
9Iron Curtainsf7A+ **1
10Groove Leftf5+ *2
11Groove Rightf5+ *2
12Writer's Blockf5+ 2
13Block and Tacklef4+ 2
14Blockbusterf5+ *3
15Blockheadf4 2
16Breeze Blockf4 2
17Jenga Masterf5+ *3
18Road Blockf4 2
 PULPIT OVERHANG  
20Flake Escapef6A *1
21Rock-over Prolapsef6B+ * 
22Sunset Sessionsf4 *1
23Work Sucksf4+ *1
24Earth Shadowf6A ***1
25Analemmaf6B+ *1
26Azimuthf5+ *1
27Winkle Pickerf7A ***1
28Winkle Picker Directf7B *** 
29Forced Widef4 *1
30Easy Groovef3 1
31The Undateablesf6A *1
32Date Nightf6C+ ***1
33Double Datef6C ***1
34Time Lapsef6B **1
35Flying Aretef6A *1
36Bent Pigeon6c S0 * 
37Clarence6c *1
 PULPIT ROCK  
39Tombstonin'...E3 6a *3
40End of the Land...E4 5c * 
41The Good of SleepE1 5a 2
42ChymerieHVS 4c *1
43Edge of BeyondHVS 5c *9
44Bleating Nincompoops4c 5
45Rapture of the DeepHVS 5b **11
46Swirling PoolHVS 5a *5
 UNDERCUT BUTTRESS  
48Exhibitionismf5 *1
49A Public Spectaclef4 *1
50Roll Up, Roll Upf5+ *1
51Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-startf6A *1
52Don't Look Johnnyf4 *1
53Tourist Attractionf5 *1
54Curtain Callf4 *1
55Back Stagef6A  
56Exit Stage Leftf6C **1
57Exit Stage Rightf6B+ ** 
 WORKING CLASS BOULDER  
59Working Class Manf4+ *2
60Twerking Classf5 *1
 SWISS CHEESE WALL  
62Cheese Slickf5+ **2
63Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keysf4+ *2
64Reblochonf4 *1
65Emmentalerf4+ *2
66Sbrinzf3 *1
67Gruyèref5 *1
68Schabzigerf6A *1
69Appenzellerf4+ **2
70Bündner Bergkäsef5+ **2
71Mutschlif5+ *1
72Raclettef5+ *1
73Tête de Moinef4+ *1
74Fribourgeoisf4+ 1
75Tilsiterf3 1
76Mont d'Orf4+ 1
77Formagginif4+ *1
78Limburgerf3 *1
 OBELISK WALL  
80Terror Tacticsf4+ 12
81Kiss and Tellf6A *2
82The Poxley Pocketf6B *1
83Penny Lanef4+ *12
84Stake Through the Heartf6A 10
85Ground Hogg Dayf6A 3
86Willow's Crackf4+ **12
87Angel Dustf4+ ***16
88Batarangf6A * 
89Buffy's Groovef5 ***13
90Bladef6B ***8
91Vampire killersf5+ **11
92Silver Bulletf3 16
93Sea Sprayf4+ *16
94Trinity Slabf5 *1
95Trinity Wallf3 *1
96Trinity Right-handf4+ *1
 BOULDER COVE  
98Three Blind Spicef6B *1
99Old Spicef6B+ **1
100Five Spicef6C **1
101Twice as Spicef6B *1
102Spice Squadf6A *1
103Naughty but Spicef5+ *1
104The Spice Presidentf5+ 1
105Of Spice and Menf4 1
106Sharpe's Goldf4 *1
107Sharpe's Siegef6C *1
108Sharpe's Perilf5+ *1
109Sharpe's Peril, Sit-startf6A+ *2
110Sharpe's Eaglef5+ *1
111Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-startf6A+ 4
112Sharpe's Swordf4 1
113Sharpe's Sword, Sit-startf4+ 4
114Sharpe's Traversef6B **1
 PROMONTORY ROOF  
116Promontory Aretef4 1
117Promontory Groovef3 1
118Little Rooff4+ *2
119Riders on the Stormf7C+ *** 
120Devil Facef7A *1
121Well Hungf7B+ *** 
122Children of Poseidonf8A *** 
123Force Majeuref7B ***4
124Hoffman's Proceduref7A+ ** 
125Hoffmajeuref6C+ ***3
126Promontory Cornerf4+ *1
127Promontory Flakef5+ *2
128Promontory Slabf5+ 1
 LIGHTHOUSE BEACH  
130Fraggle Rockf3 *1
131Uncle Travelling Mattf5+ 1
132Mokey Fragglef4 *1
133Boober Fragglef4+ *1
134Gobo Fragglef5 *1
135Wembley Fragglef5+ *1
136Red Fragglef4 *1
137Gnat's Chufff4+ *1
138Lighthouse Flakef3 *1
139Indecisionf6A *4
140Indecision, Sit-startf6B+ ***4
141Cross Courtf6A **2
142Foghorn Leghornf5+ 2
143Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-startf6C *2
144Guiding Lightf5+ 2
145Keep Your Light On for Mef5 2
146Cold Light of Dayf4+ 2
147Light Clubf3 2
148Miller Lightf3 2
 CAFE COVE  
150Cheesy Chipsf5+ *1
151Carrot Soupf6A *1
152Ploughman's Groovef4+ *1
153Clotted Creamf4+ *1
154Cheese Boardf5+ *1
155Sunday Roastf5 **1
156Light Bitef5 *1
157Crab Sandwichesf5+ **1
158Dorset Cream Teaf5 *1
159Left Craven for Moref5+ 2
 HIDDEN COVE  
161Keep Your Anemones Closerf6A 1
162Sworn Anemonef6C **1
163Once More For The Cameraf5+ *8
164Cut, It's a Wrapf6A+ *1
165Champagne Breakfastf4+ 1
166Low Bulge Traversef6B+ ** 
167Sponsorship Scamf4 1
168Not Worth the Licence Feef5 1
169Gone for Lunchf4+ 1
170Cube Routef6A *1
171Mr Bicesterf7A+ *** 
172Mrs Bicesterf6A 1
173Mr and Mrsf7A **2
174Waste Pipef3 1
175Skid Markf6A *13
176Guru Petef5+ *18
177Warm-up Traversef4+ *2
178Youth Of Todayf4+ 14
179Loaded Questionsf5+ *15
180Hip and Trendyf5+ 19
181The Hidden Traversef6C+ **1
182The Hidden Wallf6B+ ***10
183The Hidden Nichef6A+ **19
184The Hidden Linkf6B+ **1
185The Hidden Eliminatef6B+ **10
186The Hidden Crackf6B **13
187The Hidden Groovef5 *2
188The Hidden Escapef5+ *21
189The Hidden Alternativef6A *2
190The Hidden Rooff5+ ***17
191The Hidden Jumpf5+ **16
192The Hidden Cornerf6A *2
193The Unhidden Flakef5 *1
194The Unhidden Wallf6A **1
195The Scary Roof TraverseV2 *10
196Buffery's NoseV2 3
197Country FileV0 14
198Marsh BeautyV1 11
199MarshmallowV0 7
200Adams TriumphV2 14
 BARREL ZAWN  
202Barrel Zawn Traversef7B *1
203Eranuf7A * 
204Uvarvuf7A+ * 
205Barrel Rollf7A *1
206Barrel Groovef6C+ *1
207Cooper Trooperf6B+ *1
208Half Measuresf6B+ * 
209The Barrelf7A **3
210Over a Barrelf6B *5
211Under a Barrelf6C+ * 
212Ramplinef5+ **9
213Corner Laybackf4+ 6
214Deviantf6B 3
215Cornflakef3+ 10
216Hanging Slabf5+ **1
217Hanging Slab Rightf4+ *1
218Barrel Zawn Aretef6C ** 
219The Flake Escapef6C *2
 MUGLEY'S PLAIN  
221First Aretef6A *1
222Mugley Ducklingf4+ 2
223First Cornerf4 2
224Mugley's Slotf4+ *1
225Up and Overf3 3
226Second Aretef4 2
227Second Arete, Sit-startf5 *1
228Second Arete Rightf4 3
229Second Arete Right, Sit-startf4+ *3
230Rusty Wallf4+ *4
231Rusty Wall, Sit-startf5 *3
232Classic Flakef4 *5
233Mugley's Scoopf5+ 4
234Descent Crackf3 6
235The Good, the Bad, and the Mugleyf5 4
236Second Cornerf5+ 4
237Third Aretef5 *4
238Streaky Wallf6A 5
239Mystery Boltf6A+ 2
240Third Cornerf4 **6
241Fourth Aretef4 5
242Fourth Arete, Sit-startf5 5
243Central Slabf3 6
244Fourth Cornerf3 6
245Fifth Aretef3 5
246Mind the Gapf5 5
247Mugley's Rampf5+ **5
248Mugley's Ramp, Sit-startf6A **6
249Mugley's Crackf4 *5
250Layawaysf4+ *5
251Mugley's Intermittent Flakef4+ *6
252Mugley's Big Flakef4 6
253Head Flakef4 6
254Fifth Cornerf3 5
255Sixth Aretef6B+ *2
256Sixth Cornerf3 4
257Mugley Bettyf5+ 4
258Mugley's Flakef3 *4
259Flake Outf4+ *4
260CH Groovef5+ *2
261CH Groove, Sit-startf6A+ *2
262Mugley's Ribf6B+ *1
263Mugley's Rib, Sit-startf6B+ 2
264Mugley's Groovef6A *2
265Mugley's Groove, Sit-startf6A 2
266High Edgef5+ *1
267High Edge, Sit-startf6B *1
268Mugley's Wallf5+ *1
269Mugley's Wall, Sit-startf6A *1
270Seventh Aretef4 *3
271Mugley Uggf4 2
272Eighth Aretef5+ *2
273Mugley As Sinf3 2
274First and Lastf5 *2
 DEEP ZAWN  
276White PonyV2 9
277The World's Best MonoV5 *5
278Salty Sea Dog7a+ **1
279Sugar Daddy7a+ *28
280All Things Being Relative6a+ 66
281Relativity6a+ 37
282The Red Crane Traverse5a **167
283Red Crane Wall6a 50
284Wall of Squares6a 55
 RED CRANE WALL  
286Red Crane Groovef5 1
287Red Crane Groove, Sit-startf6A 1
288Red Crane Arete Leftf6B **1
289Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-startf6C+ **1
290Red Crane Aretef6A **1
291Red Crane Arete, Sit-startf6B+ **1
292Red Crane Flakef5+ **1
293Red Crane Flake, Sit-startf6A ***1
294Red Crane Eliminatef6A *1
295Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-startf6B+ **1
296Red Crane Cornerf3 1
297Red Crane Notchf4+ *1
298Red Crane Notch, Sit-startf5+ 1
299No Notchf5+ *1
300No Notch, Sit-startf6A *1
301Red Crane Crackf4+ *1
302Red Crane Crack, Sit-startf5+ *1
303Stepped Aretef3 *1
304Stepped Arete, Sit-startf4 *1
305No Aretef3 *1
306No Arete, Sit-startf6A *1
307Wide Groovef4 *1
308Wide Groove, Sit-startf6A *1
309Right Wallf6A 1
310Right Wall, Sit-startf6B+ 1
311The Pacifierf4+ *1
312The Pacifier, Sit-startf6A **1
313Moment in Timef3 *1
314Chronostasisf5 *1
315Maniaf4+ *1
316Dissociative Amnesiaf3 *1
317Parallax Shiftf4+ 1
318Temporal Vortexf4 *1
319On European Timef3 *1
320Losing Timef3 1
 HARDY'S CORNER  
322Slopey Traversef6A ***1
323Left Wall Traversef6A+ **1
324Full Traversef6B+ **1
325Magic Carpetf6A 1
326Ninety Degreesf4+ **1
327Set Squaref5+ *2
328Le Crunchf6A *1
329Hardy's Cornerf3 *2
330Parallelismf6A *1
331Pythagorasf6A *1
332Hardy's Wallf5 *1
333Hardy's Crackf4 **1
334Brutal Hardyf6B *1
335Hardy Laid Backf6A+ *1
336Melting Pointf5+ *1
337Right Wall Traversef6B+ *1
 LITTLE ZAWN  
339Against the Clockf5+ *1
340The Keyf6A 1
341Meter Revengef6A+ *1
342Zero Tractionf6A *1
343Amphidromic Systemf6A *1
344Tide Linef4+ *1
345Storm Surgef6B+ 1
346Salt Water Intrusionf5+ 1
347Nadirf6A+ *1
348Zenithf6A+ *1
349Syzygyf6A 1
350Apogeef5+ 1
351Perigeef5+ *1
352Ebb and Flowf4 *1
 POM POM BEACH  
354Nemean Lionf4 1
355Lernaean Hydraf5+ *1
356Golden Hind of Artemis.f6A+ **1
357Erymanthian Boarf5+ *1
358Augean Stablesf4+ **1
359Stymphalian Birdsf4+ 1
360Cretan Bullf4+ *1
361Mares of Diomedesf6A 1
362Girdle of Hippolytaf6A+ **1
363Geryonf6A *1
364Hesperidesf3 *1
365Cerberusf4+ *1
 SECTOR POM POM  
367El Scorchio6c *1
368Maximum Grrr...7b * 
369The Favourite GameVD 2
370L'Eau Profile7c * 
371Private Dancer6b  
372Jug City4a 1
373Jugalicious3 3
374Matt's Dilemma3 14
375Games Without Frontiers4a 7
376The Dog's Bollocks6a 10
377Time and Tide4c 6
378Thirty Years YoungE3 6b 1
379Burbage Belle7c * 
380The Big Blue7c+ ** 
381Ninth Wave7a+ *3
382Zimmerframe with Attitude7c 1
383The O'lympets6c+ 1
384The WavebandV9 ***1
385Honorary Froggatt7b+ *1
386Pocketful of Shells7b 1
387A Girl of the Limberlost6b 1
388The TemptressE1 6a 2
389Island SpellVS 2
390Flake CrackD 2
391The Huts Have Eyes6a+ 2
392Somewhere West of Laramie6a+ 1
393Not in Kansas Anymore6a+ 2
394MermaidD 2
395Beautiful LosersVS 1
396Hidden in ReverseV1 1
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R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11