Lighthouse Area

Climbs 373 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

On the east coast of the southern tip of the isle are two small areas nestling under the lighthouses. Barrel Zawn is a pleasant little bouldering area with some intense and powerful problems on slopers and tiny crimps or pockets above a shingle beach. The beach can vary in height and the problems are at their best when the beach is low. Sector Pom Pom offers a similar style of power-packed routes situated in another delightful little bay with a a frozen wave of gritstone pitted with infrequent pockets.**SEE BELOW** Sadly neither place holds anything for beginners but both are great for a spot of sunbathing or a picnic and are only 300m from the car park. Irate landowner causes problems in summer. No legal reason for denying access but it is still best to keep away. A few metres south of Barrel Zawn is the excellent low/mid-grade bouldering area of Hidden Cove, with several quality problems in the range V1 to V6 above sandy landings.

January 2014: Pom Pom rock has been totally demolished by storm waves. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Xhlx9wbs-0c [Stuart Morris]

Access notes

Barrel Zawn and Hidden Cove - Park at the main Portland Bill car park (or for free back at the layby). From the lighthouse, walk behind the cafe. The north-facing zawn is found 100m left (looking out) up the coast path just before a large quarried rock platform. Hidden Cove is directly behind the white "building" by the Lobster Pot Cafe. Sector Pom Pom - Park as for Coastguard, in the layby before the Pulpit Inn. Walk down the road past the Pulpit Inn then, at the bend, head left down a private track with the open field on the right. Follow the track around past the beach huts to the cliff-top. Turn left then after 20m follow natural rock steps down into an open cove with a prominent pinnacle. To the left is a fine wave of rock.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), Portland (2008), Deep Water (2007), Dorset Route Database (2000),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WARM-UP WALL  
2Entirely at Your Own Riskf5 1
3Liable to Give Wayf3 *1
4No Liabilityf5+ *1
5The Signs of the Timesf5 *1
6The Warning Signs Were Theref5+ *1
7Early Warning Signsf3 *1
8Stinkmataf6A **1
9Groove Leftf5+ *1
10Groove Rightf5+ *1
11Writer's Blockf5+ 1
12Block and Tacklef4+ 1
13Blockbusterf5+ *1
14Blockheadf4 1
15Breeze Blockf4 1
16Jenga Masterf5+ *1
17Road Blockf4 1
 PULPIT OVERHANG  
19Flake Escapef6A *1
20Rock-over Prolapsef6B+ * 
21Sunset Sessionsf4 *1
22Work Sucksf4+ *1
23Earth Shadowf6A ***1
24Analemmaf6B+ *1
25Azimuthf5+ *1
26Winkle Pickerf7A ***1
27Winkle Picker Directf7B *** 
28Forced Widef4 *1
29Easy Groovef3 1
30The Undateablesf6A *1
31Date Nightf6C+ ***1
32Double Datef6C ***1
33Time Lapsef6B **1
34Flying Aretef6A *1
35Bent Pigeon6c S0 * 
36Clarence6c *1
 PULPIT ROCK  
38Tombstonin'...E3 6a *2
39End of the Land...E4 5c * 
40The Good of SleepE1 5a 2
41ChymerieHVS 4c *1
42Edge of BeyondHVS 5c *8
43Bleating Nincompoops4c 5
44Rapture of the DeepHVS 5b **10
45Swirling PoolHVS 5a *5
 UNDERCUT BUTTRESS  
47Exhibitionismf5 *1
48A Public Spectaclef4 *1
49Roll Up, Roll Upf5+ *1
50Roll Up, Roll Up, Sit-startf6A *1
51Don't Look Johnnyf4 *1
52Tourist Attractionf5 *1
53Curtain Callf4 *1
54Back Stagef6A  
55Exit Stage Leftf6C **1
56Exit Stage Rightf6B+ ** 
 WORKING CLASS BOULDER  
58Working Class Manf4+ *2
59Twerking Classf5 *1
 SWISS CHEESE WALL  
61Cheese Slickf5+ **1
62Many Tentacles Pimping on the Keysf4+ *1
63Reblochonf4 *1
64Emmentalerf4+ *1
65Sbrinzf3 *1
66Gruyèref5 *1
67Schabzigerf6A *1
68Appenzellerf4+ **1
69Bündner Bergkäsef5+ **1
70Mutschlif5+ *1
71Raclettef5+ *1
72Tête de Moinef4+ *1
73Fribourgeoisf4+ 1
74Tilsiterf3 1
75Mont d'Orf4+ 1
76Formagginif4+ *1
77Limburgerf3 *1
 OBELISK WALL  
79Terror Tacticsf4+ 12
80Kiss and Tellf6A *2
81The Poxley Pocketf6B *1
82Penny Lanef4+ *12
83Stake Through the Heartf6A 9
84Ground Hogg Dayf6A 3
85Willow's Crackf4+ **11
86Angel Dustf4+ ***15
87Batarangf6A * 
88Buffy's Groovef5 ***12
89Bladef6B ***8
90Vampire killersf5+ **10
91Silver Bulletf3 15
92Sea Sprayf4+ *16
93Trinity Slabf5 *1
94Trinity Wallf3 *1
95Trinity Right-handf4+ *1
 BOULDER COVE  
97Three Blind Spicef6B *1
98Old Spicef6B+ **1
99Five Spicef6C **1
100Twice as Spicef6B *1
101Spice Squadf6A *1
102Naughty but Spicef5+ *1
103The Spice Presidentf5+ 1
104Of Spice and Menf4 1
105Sharpe's Goldf4 *1
106Sharpe's Siegef6C *1
107Sharpe's Perilf5+ *1
108Sharpe's Peril, Sit-startf6A+ *1
109Sharpe's Eaglef5+ *1
110Sharpe's Eagle, Sit-startf6A+ 1
111Sharpe's Swordf4 1
112Sharpe's Sword, Sit-startf4+ 1
 PROMONTORY ROOF  
114Promontory Aretef4 1
115Promontory Groovef3 1
116Little Rooff4+ *1
117Riders on the Stormf7C+ *** 
118Devil Facef7A *1
119Well Hungf7B+ *** 
120Children of Poseidonf8A *** 
121Force Majeuref7B ***1
122Hoffman's Proceduref7A+ ** 
123Promontory Cornerf4+ *1
124Promontory Flakef5+ *1
125Promontory Slabf5+ 1
 LIGHTHOUSE BEACH  
127Fraggle Rockf3 *1
128Uncle Travelling Mattf5+ 1
129Mokey Fragglef4 *1
130Boober Fragglef4+ *1
131Gobo Fragglef5 *1
132Wembley Fragglef5+ *1
133Red Fragglef4 *1
134Gnat's Chufff4+ *1
135Lighthouse Flakef3 *1
136Indecisionf6A *1
137Indecision, Sit-startf6B+ ***1
138Cross Courtf6A **1
139Foghorn Leghornf5+ 1
140Foghorn Leghorn, Sit-startf6C *2
141Guiding Lightf5+ 1
142Keep Your Light On for Mef5 1
143Cold Light of Dayf4+ 1
144Light Clubf3 1
145Miller Lightf3 1
 CAFE COVE  
147Cheesy Chipsf5+ *1
148Carrot Soupf6A *1
149Ploughman's Groovef4+ *1
150Clotted Creamf4+ *1
151Cheese Boardf5+ *1
152Sunday Roastf5 **1
153Light Bitef5 *1
154Crab Sandwichesf5+ **1
155Dorset Cream Teaf5 *1
156Left Craven for Moref5+ 1
 HIDDEN COVE  
158Keep Your Anemones Closerf6A  
159Sworn Anemonef6C ** 
160Once More For The Cameraf5+ *8
161Cut, It's a Wrapf6A+ * 
162Champagne Breakfastf4+  
163Low Bulge Traversef6B+ ** 
164Sponsorship Scamf4 1
165Not Worth the Licence Feef5 1
166Gone for Lunchf4+ 1
167Cube Routef6A *1
168Mr Bicesterf7A+ *** 
169Mrs Bicesterf6A 1
170Mr and Mrsf7A ** 
171Waste Pipef3 1
172Skid Markf6A *13
173Guru Petef5+ *17
174Warm-up Traversef4+ *1
175Youth Of Todayf4+ 12
176Loaded Questionsf5+ *13
177Hip and Trendyf5+ 17
178The Hidden Traversef6C+ ** 
179The Hidden Wallf6B+ ***9
180The Hidden Nichef6A+ **17
181The Hidden Linkf6B+ **1
182The Hidden Eliminatef6B+ **9
183The Hidden Crackf6B **12
184The Hidden Groovef5 *1
185The Hidden Escapef5+ *20
186The Hidden Alternativef6A *1
187The Hidden Rooff5+ ***16
188The Hidden Jumpf5+ **15
189The Hidden Cornerf6A *1
190The Unhidden Flakef5 *1
191The Unhidden Wallf6A **1
192 The Scary Roof TraverseV2 *10
193 Buffery's NoseV2 3
194 Country FileV0 14
195 Marsh BeautyV1 11
196 MarshmallowV0 6
197 Adams TriumphV2 14
 BARREL ZAWN  
199Barrel Zawn Traversef7B *1
200Eranuf7A * 
201Uvarvuf7A+ * 
202Barrel Rollf7A *1
203Barrel Groovef6C+ *1
204Cooper Trooperf6B+ *1
205Half Measuresf6B+ * 
206The Barrelf7A **3
207Over a Barrelf6B *5
208Under a Barrelf6C+ * 
209Ramplinef5+ **9
210Corner Laybackf4+ 6
211Deviantf6B 3
212Cornflakef3+ 10
213Hanging Slabf5+ ** 
214Hanging Slab Rightf4+ * 
215Barrel Zawn Aretef6C ** 
216The Flake Escapef6C *2
 MUGLEY'S PLAIN  
218First Aretef6A *1
219Mugley Ducklingf4+ 1
220First Cornerf4 1
221Mugley's Slotf4+ *1
222Up and Overf3 1
223Second Aretef4 1
224Second Arete, Sit-startf5 *1
225Second Arete Rightf4 1
226Second Arete Right, Sit-startf4+ *1
227Rusty Wallf4+ *1
228Rusty Wall, Sit-startf5 *1
229Classic Flakef4 *1
230Mugley's Scoopf5+ 1
231Descent Crackf3 1
232The Good, the Bad, and the Mugleyf5 1
233Second Cornerf5+ 1
234Third Aretef5 *1
235Streaky Wallf6A 1
236Mystery Boltf6A+ 1
237Third Cornerf4 **1
238Fourth Aretef4 1
239Fourth Arete, Sit-startf5 1
240Central Slabf3 1
241Fourth Cornerf3 1
242Fifth Aretef3 1
243Mind the Gapf5 1
244Mugley's Rampf5+ **1
245Mugley's Ramp, Sit-startf6A **1
246Mugley's Crackf4 *1
247Layawaysf4+ *1
248Mugley's Intermittent Flakef4+ *1
249Mugley's Big Flakef4 1
250Head Flakef4 1
251Fifth Cornerf3 1
252Sixth Aretef6B+ *1
253Sixth Cornerf3 1
254Mugley Bettyf5+ 1
255Mugley's Flakef3 *1
256Flake Outf4+ *1
257CH Groovef5+ *1
258CH Groove, Sit-startf6A+ *1
259Mugley's Ribf6B+ *1
260Mugley's Rib, Sit-startf6B+ 1
261Mugley's Groovef6A *1
262Mugley's Groove, Sit-startf6A 1
263High Edgef5+ *1
264High Edge, Sit-startf6B *1
265Mugley's Wallf5+ *1
266Mugley's Wall, Sit-startf6A *1
267Seventh Aretef4 *1
268Mugley Uggf4  
269Eighth Aretef5+ * 
270Mugley As Sinf3  
271First and Lastf5 * 
 DEEP ZAWN  
273White PonyV2 9
274The World's Best MonoV5 *5
275Salty Sea Dog7a+ **1
276Sugar Daddy7a+ *26
277All Things Being Relative6a+ 65
278Relativity6a+ 35
279The Red Crane Traverse5a **162
280Red Crane Wall6a 48
281Wall of Squares6a 54
 RED CRANE WALL  
283Red Crane Groovef5 1
284Red Crane Groove, Sit-startf6A 1
285Red Crane Arete Leftf6B **1
286Red Crane Arete Left, Sit-startf6C+ **1
287Red Crane Aretef6A **1
288Red Crane Arete, Sit-startf6B+ **1
289Red Crane Flakef5+ **1
290Red Crane Flake, Sit-startf6A ***1
291Red Crane Eliminatef6A *1
292Red Crane Eliminate, Sit-startf6B+ **1
293Red Crane Cornerf3 1
294Red Crane Notchf4+ *1
295Red Crane Notch, Sit-startf5+ 1
296No Notchf5+ *1
297No Notch, Sit-startf6A *1
298Red Crane Crackf4+ *1
299Red Crane Crack, Sit-startf5+ *1
300Stepped Aretef3 *1
301Stepped Arete, Sit-startf4 *1
302No Aretef3 *1
303No Arete, Sit-startf6A *1
304Wide Groovef4 *1
305Wide Groove, Sit-startf6A *1
306Right Wallf6A 1
307Right Wall, Sit-startf6B+ 1
308The Pacifierf4+ *1
309The Pacifier, Sit-startf6A **1
310Moment in Timef3 *1
311Chronostasisf5 *1
312Maniaf4+ *1
313Dissociative Amnesiaf3 *1
314Parallax Shiftf4+ 1
315Temporal Vortexf4 *1
316On European Timef3 *1
317Losing Timef3 1
 HARDY'S CORNER  
319Slopey Traversef6A ***1
320Left Wall Traversef6A+ **1
321Full Traversef6B+ **1
322Magic Carpetf6A 1
323Ninety Degreesf4+ **1
324Set Squaref5+ *1
325Le Crunchf6A *1
326Hardy's Cornerf3 *1
327Parallelismf6A *1
328Pythagorasf6A *1
329Hardy's Wallf5 *1
330Hardy's Crackf4 **1
331Brutal Hardyf6B *1
332Hardy Laid Backf6A+ *1
333Melting Pointf5+ *1
334Right Wall Traversef6B+ *1
 LITTLE ZAWN  
336Against the Clockf5+ *1
337The Keyf6A 1
338Meter Revengef6A+ *1
339Zero Tractionf6A *1
340Amphidromic Systemf6A *1
341Tide Linef4+ *1
342Storm Surgef6B+ 1
343Salt Water Intrusionf5+ 1
344Nadirf6A+ *1
345Zenithf6A+ *1
346Syzygyf6A 1
347Apogeef5+ 1
348Perigeef5+ *1
349Ebb and Flowf4 *1
 POM POM BEACH  
351Nemean Lionf4  
352Lernaean Hydraf5+ * 
353Golden Hind of Artemis.f6A+ ** 
354Erymanthian Boarf5+ * 
355Augean Stablesf4+ ** 
356Stymphalian Birdsf4+  
357Cretan Bullf4+ * 
358Mares of Diomedesf6A  
359Girdle of Hippolytaf6A+ ** 
360Geryonf6A * 
361Hesperidesf3 * 
362Cerberusf4+ * 
 SECTOR POM POM  
364El Scorchio6c *1
365Maximum Grrr...7b * 
366The Favourite GameVD 2
367L'Eau Profile7c * 
368Private Dancer6b  
369Jug City4a 1
370Jugalicious3 3
371Matt's Dilemma3 14
372Games Without Frontiers4a 7
373The Dog's Bollocks6a 10
374Time and Tide4c 6
375Thirty Years YoungE3 6b 1
376Burbage Belle7c * 
377The Big Blue7c+ ** 
378Ninth Wave7a+ *3
379Zimmerframe with Attitude7c 1
380The O'lympets6c+ 1
381The WavebandV9 ***1
382Honorary Froggatt7b+ *1
383Pocketful of Shells7b  
384A Girl of the Limberlost6b 1
385The TemptressE1 6a 2
386Island SpellVS 2
387Flake CrackD 2
388The Huts Have Eyes6a+ 2
389Somewhere West of Laramie6a+ 1
390Not in Kansas Anymore6a+ 2
391MermaidD 2
392Beautiful Losers *VS 1
393Hidden in Reverse *V1 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
R.I.P Sector Pom Pom, we had a good run. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-dorset-25634199
Joe W-O - 08/Jan/14
There are a handful of good problems on the wall on the 'back' of the Hidden Cove (south side), below the Lobster Pot. Low tide required. See black and white photo of John in the gallery below. Think there's a B+W photo of Alex on one of them in my gallery too. All about V0/1/2, all climbed around the same time as Hidden Cove was developed (2001 ish), but never reported. Also a few extra problems on the left of Hidden Cove (south) that aren't in the CC guide - all sit/crouch start under the sharp bulge and power through to the ledge. See B+W photo of Jimbo in gallery.
Ben Thorne - 21/Apr/11