Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a smattering of trad routes. Some routes have become polished, especially the starts of those on the central section of the Lower Lift. 2015 and 2016 have seen quite a few new routes. 

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for two or three cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

42Gallions Reach5c 27
43Tameness5c *24
44Three Amigos5c  
45Three Amigos (original)6b+ 16
46No Time For Lunch5a 2
47Purple Reign5c 3
48The C Word6b *12
49U Sexy Mutha Fucka5c *4
 Upper Lift: Right 
51Silver-Tongued Cavalier
6a+ 116
52Red Recess
6b+ 59
53Arête de Résurrection6a *8
54Fishy FlavoursVS 4c 31
55Thick End of the Wedge5c 5
56The Crag of Impossible Dreams5a 6
57The Order of Yoni6a+ *8
58Banana Crack
5c 186
59Banana Skin5c 189
5a 293
61Simples4c 6
62The Banana Splits
4a 246
63Little SlutHVS 4c 2
64Little SlitVS 4c 68
65Nice Thicket5a 117
 Secret Slab (Upper Lift: Far Right) 
67Healing Potion6a+ *14
68Stop Hitting Your Sister, Or You Won't Get Any Brioche4a 13
69Bonjour Rodney5a 11
70Sending Spree5a 14
71Are You Infected?VD 5
72Secretively SlabbyHVS 5a 2
 Lower Lift 
74Meh (?)HS 4a 3
75ChippaE1 5b 30
76ChoppaE2 5c 18
77Food for WormsE1 5c 14
78Nice and DryE1 5b 68
79The CharlatanHVS 5a 44
80Little PlumsVS 4c 81
81Rocky McRockFaceVS 4c 2
82The Rotten CornerVS 4c 151

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