Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 153m a.s.l
Faces SW

Stretching through the crux © DrGav

Crag features

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Approach notes

The quarry lies just above the A466 between Chepstow and Tintern. Parking is available in the forestry car park 200m up the road, and is possible to walk to the crag along the roadside grass verges. Rough parking for two or three cars is also possible by the road under the cliff (not ideal if your car is low-slung or its exhaust is hanging off). Take care when pulling in or out, or walking along the roadside - the road is narrow and bendy, but that doesn't seem to stop the drivers going for it!

I climbed all the recent additions yesterday, and have now put everything in left-right sequence, as far as I can tell. By the way, the climb recently entered as "by itself left of Silver-tongued Cavalier" is almost certainly Three Amigos. The former is now deleted, and the ascents moved across to the latter. I hope I now have everything correct; let me know if not. Enjoy the new routes :)
bpmclimb - 29/Jun/15
I've added Empire and Revolution Direct Finish to the database. Recent ascentionists who finished direct (past the new third bolt) please log their ascents of this route (and delete those ascents form the original Empire and Revolution). Thanks.
bpmclimb - 26/Jan/15
good winter crag there is no choss!!
hands solo - 26/Dec/14
What a bloody pile of roadside choss! At least the outlook is nice tho.
The Pylon King - 05/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

28Red Ken6b 23
29Boris6b 16
30Hollow Talk5c 8
31Amused?6b+ 5
32Woke Up Dreamin'6b+ *5
33Gallions Reach5c 9
34Three Amigos6b+ 14
35Silver-Tongued Cavalier
6a+ 112
36Red Recess
6b+ 53
37Fishy FlavoursVS 4c 22
38Banana Crack
5c 169
39Banana Skin5c 171
5a 273
41The Banana Splits
4a 223
42Little SlitVS 4c 57
43Nice Thicket5a 112
 Lower Lift 
45Meh (?)HS 4a 3
E1 5b 18
E2 5c 10
48Food for Worms
E1 5c 14
49Nice and Dry
E1 5b 56
50The CharlatanHVS 5a 41
51Little PlumsVS 4c 79
52Rotten CornerVS 4c 133
53Empire and RevolutionE2 6a 80
54Empire and Revolution Direct Finish6c+ 12

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