If it stays dry when I am off over Xmas I'll pop down and do the two 'XS' routes, checking any fixed gear and get them graded my understanding is they are/were graded around english 5b ish
pebblespanker - 16/Dec/13
Lovely little crag now clean at the base. The hard routes are 24/25, both marked XS+. 24 rock is fairly friable in places, and the lead (as far as I can see) would be a solo up to about 6 or so metres, at which point the climb is pretty much over. Would be nice for these routes to be properly graded/confirmed (I don't have enough experience to do so). 25 is more solid rock but a challenging climb with minimal gear including a rusty and questionable piton.
Blackmud - 13/Dec/13
Done some more clearing so there is now continuous access along the wall; best approach now to the right hand end. Clearing has exposed some lost routes around lines 20, 21. Can the topo for the crag be redrafted to list routes left to right and take in "new" routes?
Nettles are dying back - its pretty good.
Shug@van - 03/Oct/13
Nice wee crag with some good routes. The base is pretty clear, but the nettles getting there are a nightmare (up to my knees). If it was to be cleared out a bit it would be fantastic.
hepy - 09/Jun/13
Nice and clear around the base of the crag (thanks, Shug@van!). Getting there required walking through a lot of nettle, though, so wear some heavy trousers if you go. The walk in is otherwise nice. Definitely more than 10 minutes from the primary school. Worth a visit if you live in the area.
ephraim - 02/Jun/13
Have done a bit of careful clearing along base of wall. Can now get access from northern end to the"scarecrow"wall. Also done some clearing at the base of the "gurgle"wall. Paths to these sections clear-make the most of late winter/ early spring before the nettles grow!
Shug@van - 15/Mar/13
I visited the crag today for a bit of a recce and found it wildly overgrown, which is unfortunate as the climbs seem really good. Most seem to be marked, and are fairly obvious. I don't think it is worth visiting for bouldering, but if you're into trad, and own a machete then check this wee crag out, there are certainly enough routes for an afternoon or evenings climbing.
Azwhite - 11/Feb/12
Done a few routes on Craiglug 22/1/2012. Nice crag but so over grown had to fight with thorns to get to base and even then belaying in a bush. You have to walk over private land to get to the base. But the view is amazing but needs a good clean up. Will go back but there are better crags in the area
leewright - 24/Jan/12
Disapointed that the climbs i submitted have been taken down... Given that they dont have name's i was wondering why?
smile - 02/Dec/11
Very nice little crag. The approach was quite hard - very overgrown..., but the climbs are nice, easy and enjoyable. The sunset is absolutely amazing. Good belay anchor on top of Number 10/11.
Stephi - 30/Jun/11
Used to climb here in the second half of the 70s - was veg-free then. Two belay anchors bolted in place a few years ago (?RAF Leuchars). Some careful clearing will free up more climbs without exposing the work. Keep to field edges on approach. Great place on a sunny evening.
Shug@van - 26/Apr/11
This was our Wednesday evening's training venue back in the 1960's. Start at the left and work along to the right. A quick Girdle traverse then the big overhang on the right, we knew it as "The Gurgle" - Grade: Not Easy! Down to the Pub before closing time :-)
It was good clean rock and wasn't overgrown back then. Too many indoor climbing walls these days, I suppose....
nimrod - 15/Oct/10
surprisingly nice little crag
amy - 04/Jun/10
Please be discrete in the gardening!
pebblespanker - 25/Jun/09
went there on 24th June and was very over grown may go back and clear things out a litte
konna - 25/Jun/09