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View larger mapGrid Ref NO 403183 (OS Landranger #59)

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These details were last updated on 11/Jan/2014

Craiglug

Fife, SCOTLAND

Climbs 28 – Rocktype Dolerite – Altitude 150m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A little crag that has a fantastic outlook over the Fife countryside. The left hand side has a few easier offerings whilst the right hand side has limited bouldering and a few harder routes. The grades were painted on the rock at the bottom of each route although many of these have worn off.

Some nice fingery boulder problems, the best so far being 6a wall LH. 2 climbs marked as 'XS' are as yet unchecked gradewise.

The first ascents were recorded by J.Baines and T.Wilkinson in the late 1950's, then G.Farquhar and R.Farquhar in the 1960's.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
16 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
7 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
21 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
25 kph

4.0mm rain
Cloudy
10 °C
23 kph
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More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath

Guidebooks

Out of print: Lowland Outcrops (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Done Beforef5 5b 3
26a Wall Left Handf6A+ 6a *3
3ScarecrowVS 4c 6
4Number 10S 11
5Number 18VD 9
6Over Grown (18) Direct finishHVS *2
7Number 5D 8
8Number 8S 4
 Climb nameGradex
9Number 9VD 6
10Number 7VD 8
11Number 11VS 6
12Number 12S 2
13Number 13S 3
14Number 27VS 4b 3
15Number 26VS 4c *4
16Number 6VD 3
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Access notes
Upon entering the village of Dairsie take the only turn-off on the north side of the road. Park beside the re-cycling bins across from the primary school. From here walk north, around the right-hand bend in the road beside the cottages, then left up the "Fingask" track. Craiglug will become apparent and obvious. Follow the edges of the fields to get there avoiding the houses at Craigfoodie. '''NOTE''' ... Don't park up the Fingask track, or at Craigfoodie as the farmer has been threatening to remove cars with his forklift. They aren't happy about people taking cars up there. Don't do it as this is private ground and access to the crag could become an issue. The walk from the re-cycling bins is nice and it only takes 10 minutes. The logical route to the crag is through a field next to a garden but someone has kindly placed a piece of tube foam on the barbed-wire.

Classifieds
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer pebblespanker

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
If it stays dry when I am off over Xmas I'll pop down and do the two 'XS' routes, checking any fixed gear and get them graded my understanding is they are/were graded around english 5b ish
pebblespanker - 16/Dec/13

Lovely little crag now clean at the base. The hard routes are 24/25, both marked XS+. 24 rock is fairly friable in places, and the lead (as far as I can see) would be a solo up to about 6 or so metres, at which point the climb is pretty much over. Would be nice for these routes to be properly graded/confirmed (I don't have enough experience to do so). 25 is more solid rock but a challenging climb with minimal gear including a rusty and questionable piton.
Blackmud - 13/Dec/13

Done some more clearing so there is now continuous access along the wall; best approach now to the right hand end. Clearing has exposed some lost routes around lines 20, 21. Can the topo for the crag be redrafted to list routes left to right and take in "new" routes? Nettles are dying back - its pretty good.
Shug@van - 03/Oct/13

Nice wee crag with some good routes. The base is pretty clear, but the nettles getting there are a nightmare (up to my knees). If it was to be cleared out a bit it would be fantastic.
hepy - 09/Jun/13

Nice and clear around the base of the crag (thanks, Shug@van!). Getting there required walking through a lot of nettle, though, so wear some heavy trousers if you go. The walk in is otherwise nice. Definitely more than 10 minutes from the primary school. Worth a visit if you live in the area.
ephraim - 02/Jun/13

Have done a bit of careful clearing along base of wall. Can now get access from northern end to the"scarecrow"wall. Also done some clearing at the base of the "gurgle"wall. Paths to these sections clear-make the most of late winter/ early spring before the nettles grow!
Shug@van - 15/Mar/13

I visited the crag today for a bit of a recce and found it wildly overgrown, which is unfortunate as the climbs seem really good. Most seem to be marked, and are fairly obvious. I don't think it is worth visiting for bouldering, but if you're into trad, and own a machete then check this wee crag out, there are certainly enough routes for an afternoon or evenings climbing.
Azwhite - 11/Feb/12

Done a few routes on Craiglug 22/1/2012. Nice crag but so over grown had to fight with thorns to get to base and even then belaying in a bush. You have to walk over private land to get to the base. But the view is amazing but needs a good clean up. Will go back but there are better crags in the area
leewright - 24/Jan/12

Disapointed that the climbs i submitted have been taken down... Given that they dont have name's i was wondering why?
smile - 02/Dec/11

Very nice little crag. The approach was quite hard - very overgrown..., but the climbs are nice, easy and enjoyable. The sunset is absolutely amazing. Good belay anchor on top of Number 10/11.
Stephi - 30/Jun/11

Used to climb here in the second half of the 70s - was veg-free then. Two belay anchors bolted in place a few years ago (?RAF Leuchars). Some careful clearing will free up more climbs without exposing the work. Keep to field edges on approach. Great place on a sunny evening.
Shug@van - 26/Apr/11

This was our Wednesday evening's training venue back in the 1960's. Start at the left and work along to the right. A quick Girdle traverse then the big overhang on the right, we knew it as "The Gurgle" - Grade: Not Easy! Down to the Pub before closing time :-) It was good clean rock and wasn't overgrown back then. Too many indoor climbing walls these days, I suppose.... Graeme Hunter.
nimrod - 15/Oct/10

surprisingly nice little crag
amy - 04/Jun/10

Please be discrete in the gardening!
pebblespanker - 25/Jun/09

went there on 24th June and was very over grown may go back and clear things out a litte
konna - 25/Jun/09