The Cuttings

Climbs 475 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to Îdogâ beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12. Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat. Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes

The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaced by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out). Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings. The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE NEW CUTTINGS  
2Park LifeV0 1
3Broken RibV0 1
4Canyon CrackV0 21
5GroovyV2 17
6Left CrackV0 34
7Right CrackV0- 41
8Swings and RoundaboutsV4 **21
9Stepped Wall VD  
10Zit VS 5a/b 1
11Undercut Arete VD 1
12On the Boil VS 4a 1
13Puffin Billy HVS 5b 1
14Silent Boulder VS 5a 1
15Loco HVS 5a/b 1
16Phat SlabV3 *8
17Phats and Bigsf6C 8
18The Phat Traversef5+ *28
19The Fat Controllerf6A 14
20Phat Slapperf7A *29
21Pastoralf7B+ *3
22Descent Horizonf6A *7
23White Baronf6C *10
24White Baron Leftf6C 3
25Gunpowder Plotf6C *25
26Guy Fawkesf7C+ *8
27Firestarterf7A *9
28Subyouth7b+ **8
29Flowers on the Razor Wire6c **97
30Nu Skoolf7A *6
31Stompin' with Bez7c **6
32My Chemical RomanceV11 ***1
33The Fibonacci Sequence7c+ *1
34Lats, Babes and Bolts7b+ *5
35Razorfacef7B+ *4
36Bogus Roof7b *5
37The Unworthy6c **150
38The Vulcanites7a *69
39Deadlosski Must Die7b *19
40Leer of Beethoven7b+ *18
41Bunfight at the Portland Corral5c *135
42Buddleia Boulevard4c 32
43Skaterdate4c 47
44Elephant on Rollerskates4c *291
45Limbo Dancer5c *180
46Beeching's Track E1 6a 3
47Tipping the Scales7a *53
48Pop for the Top6c *61
49Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus4c *194
50Space ManouversV4 *15
51Nobody Runs for Free6b 6
52State of Love and Trust6c *15
53The Running Man6c+ *13
54Bend Sinister7a+ **38
55Plyometrically Speaking7b+ *17
56Learning Curve E1 5c *1
57The Blandford Weasel7b 7
58Cold Fusion E1 5b 1
59Crag traverseV5 *10
 CUTTINGS MAIN CLIFF  
61Eat, Stick and Die2 294
62We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel3 331
63Choose Your Own Adventure5c *16
64Cheese and Pickle4c 136
65Parsnip Soup5a 109
66Corporal Punishment5a 258
67On Manoeuvres3 331
68Arc Angel2+ 247
69Charity Work Mate3 276
70Magical Misty Tour3+ 286
71Bonsai3+ 320
72Sting in the Tail5c 305
73Baron's Revenge3+ 135
74Chicken Boy3+ 104
75Tantrums and Tiaras3+ 148
76100 Sunny Days3 252
77Juggernaut5a 396
78Rock Lobster4c 383
79Amazonia4c *645
80The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *740
81Definitely Maybe6a+ *357
82Little Chef5c *579
83Little Sod6b *204
84The Sod5c *642
85Lup Dup6a+ *42
86Mindmeld7a+ *225
87Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **79
88Hillman the Hunter6b+ *136
89Hole in the Wall E1 5c 1
90Flying Peach6b *29
91Grapefruit takes a Whipper6a+ *41
92Princess and the Pea6b+ 13
93Pillow Talk6c 16
94The Cutting Edge6c+ ***318
95Dumbfounded7b *122
96Chalkie and the Hex 55c **637
97The Ramp5a *569
98Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b 5
99Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7c *22
100Evening Mistress6b *159
101Men Behaving Badly7a+ *18
102Amen Corner5a **517
103Mousefolk6c *209
104Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **554
105Jam4c **741
106Chips with Everything5a *703
107Quality Family Day4c **569
108True Love6b+ 23
109Bridget RileyE2 6a *4
110The Mind Terrorist7c+ **7
111Knockout Punch7b+ *9
112SpicerE2 5c *3
113Levitation By Proxy6c *40
114That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
115Finesse7a 8
116Hidden Treasure6a *94
117Kestrel VS 4c 1
118Looking for Love E2 5b 1
119Blowing the Gimp7a+ *36
120The Sears Tower7b+ *15
121The Holy Hand Grenade7a **159
122Brief Encounter6b **399
123Infernal Din7b+ ***63
124European Flavour6b **279
125Europe Endless6b+ **58
126Gourmet6a 5
127The Breathing Method8a ***23
128Hall of Mirrors7c ***116
129Want Out7b ***103
130New Saladin6c **245
131Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **2
132Consommé6a+ **783
133Haute Cuisine7a **197
134The Mouth Waters7a+ **102
135Two Fingers6a **583
136Three Fingers6a *510
137Bob Hunkhousef7A+ *12
138Opus5a *588
139Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *287
140Perihelion6b **183
141Disobedience Contest6b **136
142Live is Life6b *29
143The Potting Shed6a *187
144Rules is Rules6b+ 27
145Old Buffer6b *109
146Live by the Sword7a+ **180
147Another Notch in the Gun6b **391
148Figgy Dropwise6c+ *56
149Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c 18
150Aperitif5c 64
151Ectomorph6a *93
152Unknown Arete7a+ 19
153The Bournemouth Flyer6b *119
154Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c 1
155Nightmare Scenario7c **26
156Modern Nightmare7a **102
157Bad Dream E4 6a 1
158Fighting Torque8a **50
159Under Duress7c+ **26
160Shiver Me Timbers7a *68
161Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **105
 THE BOWER  
163Whispering Gallery2 196
164Queen of the New Year2+ 203
165Suntrap3 248
166The Bumper Fun Book4a *285
167Tinkerbell6a *245
168Far From The Madding Crowd5c *205
169Six Finger Exercise6b+ *137
170Godbeams4a *300
171Ladybower3 *142
172All Bowered Out6a *10
 THE DELL - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (LEFT)  
174Sjambok the Skelem4c 25
175The Naughty Corner4a 39
176West of Vanity Fare6b 20
177Hot FlushE1 5c 7
178XerdnaVS 4c 14
179Hot Fuzz5c 19
180Don't Bring Your Mum2 20
181Rain Shadow 1V1 9
182Rain Shadow 2V0- 11
183Rain Shadow 3V0- 11
184Rain Shadow 4V1 10
185Rain Shadow 5V2 10
186Rain Shadow 6VB 10
187Rain Shadow 7V1 8
188Rain Shadow 8V0- 9
189Rain Shadow 9V0+ 8
 THE BOTTOM DECKIO - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (RIGHT)  
191Voices in the Bower3 223
192Up the Junction6b *91
193Round the Bend6b *96
194Winter Sun6a *287
195Time Out of Mind5a 319
196Voices in the Mind5c *40
 THE BOULDERFIELD NORTH  
198Rocky and Dieself5+ ***129
199Made in the Shadef6B 35
200Slim ShadyVB 20
201Plain AwkwardV3 6
202Blue Skies - Standing Startf5 *114
203Blue Skies - Sit StartV3 *16
204Jo's Arete - Standing Startf4 **155
205Jo's Arete - Sit StartV3 *25
206Nu Breed - Standing StartV1 *82
207Nu Breed - Sit Startf6B ***123
208SimplesV1 11
209Pleasant GreetingsV6 *15
210Old Codes, New ChaosV2 11
211Global Underground ( standing start)V2 9
212Global Underground - Sit startf6B *17
213Pornof6B *4
214FilthV4 1
215Gluef6C *7
216Marabou Stork NightmaresV4 1
217The Bedroom Secrets of the Master ChefsV1 1
218Acid Housef7A **21
219You'll Have Had Your HoleV4 *1
220The TerminatorV6 **39
221Queen BeeV5 *1
222New boulderfield problem3V6 1
223Gunmetal LeftVB 15
224Gunmetal RightVB 15
225Grizzly StyleV5 *2
226Stress FractureV2 2
227Anvil AreteVB 43
228Hammer Timef4 *115
229The Anvilf5 *90
230Breaking Rocksf5 *80
231Africaf6B *7
232The RiftV1 14
233The Prowf6B *36
234Liquid Sunshinef7A+ ***17
235Liquid Sunshine - Sit StartV8 ***11
236Storm RunningV6 **6
237Rain Dodging Lower Left StartV7 **10
238Rain Dodgingf6A *34
239A Bracing Dampnessf6B *18
240FirefightV8 *3
241Pinky Power - Standing StartV2 17
242Pinky Power - Sit Startf7A *49
243Full PowerV7 *4
244Secret Handshakef6C **25
245Hot Ridef7A+ **18
246Gasoline and Apple PieV4 *6
247Up to Our Old TricksV1 18
248Off to ChamV3 4
249Tim's Traversef5+ *12
250Jump and MantelV1 *18
251Days of Colourf5+ *20
252Halfway SlabVB 23
253Thrupenny BitsV0 *46
254Bristol CitiesV0 *45
255Halfway TraverseV0 20
256In-fillerV1 14
257PolyfillerV2 *16
258Filler-InV1 15
259BuffyV1 8
260SpikeV1 *8
261HarmageddonV4 2
262GenedefektV1 *20
263Green VelvetV5 2
264La La LandV2 15
265Minimum RageV3 *13
266Waiting for the Day to EndV4 5
267SoulessV3 2
268SoulfulV3 10
269Southern Soulf6B **40
270Non-stickV2 *17
271Uncle Ben'sV1 16
272Lonely Vigilf4 103
273Tommy Cliffhangerf6A 38
274Toll Booth Arête - Standing StartV1 25
275Toll Booth Arete - Sit Startf7A+ *32
276The Dominatorf6A 32
277The Dominator - Standing StartV1 20
278Doogy Howser Gets Laidf6A *9
279Doogy Howser Gets VDf6C *6
280Lightning Strikef7A+ ***56
281Relativityf6B ***77
282Over the LineVB 23
283Streamline - Standing StartV2 **28
284Streamline - Sit Startf5+ **99
285Tunnel SlabVB 44
286Bling, Blingf6B 60
287In Ya Facef6B 38
288Right In Ya FaceV6 **12
289Pornographic Beatsf6B **25
290Achilles Heelf6A 37
291Achilles heel directV4 8
292The Scene, Revisitedf6A **35
293Hello Sailor!f5+ 30
294The Fearf4 *46
295I Don't Lichen itV2 7
296Bird Shit SlabV0+ 10
297Bird Shit AreteV2 9
298DeclassifiedV7 **14
299DugV0 *22
300DigV2 22
301TTTV2 15
302Big WallV2 14
303Shark BaitV2 *10
304Neil Armstrongf7A ***41
305Neil Armstrong + BlockV4 **8
306Lemon Jellyf6A **39
307Lemon Jelly + BlockV2 *6
308Bag o' ShiteV3 7
309The Death of Kingsf7A **17
310Un-namedf7A+ * 
311GrafenbergV5 *19
312First Impressionsf5+ *9
313Silent Hillf6B *7
314Diamond SolitaireV1 8
315Hung Out to DryV1 *34
316SundanceV1 *33
317Super NovaVB *32
318Sun SpotV0 *36
319Wolf NumberVB *35
320Coronal Mass EjectionV5 **36
321Years Around the SunV7 ***13
322Lost DecadeV6 **30
323Lamb ShankV4 *17
324Rolling StonesV2 18
325V for VendettaV6 **22
326NorsefireV0 *10
327Norsefire Sit StartV2 *12
328Banana PancakesV3 *13
329Full EnglishV4 **11
330The Hand of GodV1 7
331The Hand of TimV1 7
332Left HookV4 *9
333Technical KnockoutV3 6
334Smoking JoeV6 *10
335Right HookV4 **10
336SouthpawV3 **8
337Sliding HopeV3 *1
338Hope Slidef6C **5
339Cheese Graterf7A **3
340Grate Escapef6B *2
341Napalmf5 *14
342I'm a Swinger Baby, Yeahf5+ *11
343Tripomatic Fairytalesf6B *6
344Downwards Spiralf6B *4
345Jabba The HutV0 *12
346Ouch!V3 19
347Southwest AreteV2 27
348Southeast AreteV2 22
349Jurassic SlabVB 31
350Attempted Suicide With lipV0+ 6
351Attempted suicide Without lipV2 4
352Corridors of PowerV1 8
353Eco Terroristsf6A *10
354Cat Killerf6A ***57
355Nine Lives Lostf6A **17
356Tour de Blocf6B *7
357Neal's ProblemV1 64
358One in TenV2 51
359Deputy DonutV0 *86
360Sheriff Fat ManV1 75
361Homer SimpsonV1 52
362Warm-up EscapeV0 48
363Warm-up WallV0+ 41
364Warm-up Arete LeftVB 46
365Warm-up Arete RightVB 36
366Grave Robbingf5 7
367Don't Touch Mef6B *4
368Six Feet Underf5 *8
369The Lip Traversef5+ **79
370Lip traverse - sit startV4 6
371Pop StartV2 *13
372The Crackf4 **152
373The Aretef6A *100
374Little SlabVB 9
375Trout Poutf6A 42
376Petty Thieff7A **46
377Petty Thief - Lip StartV2 **52
378Super Petty ThiefV7 2
379Split Lipf7A+ 24
380Split Lip - Lip StartV4 43
381Super Split LipV8 1
382Lip Servicef7A+ *8
383Cavity Searchf7A+ ***27
384Lip Service - Lip StartV5 *3
385Super Lip ServiceV8 1
386Cavity Search - Lip StartV4 23
387Blood Bathf6C **12
388IncisorV0+ 8
389CanineV0+ 6
390Ferdinand MagellanV1 *17
391Pocket Traversef5+ 27
392Tuftyf5+ *105
393Crouching Start, Hidden Agendaf6B **82
394Vasco de GamaV5 **18
395Hard Labourf5 **128
396Captain Cookf5+ **100
397The World's Best Mono II!f6B **40
398Christopher Columbusf7A **10
 THE BOULDERFIELD SOUTH  
400Terror AreteV1 *4
401Terror TraverseV3 **2
402Terror CrackV0+ 11
403Ménage a Troisf5+ **30
404Bordo Della Terraf7A+ ***13
405The Cutting Roomf7A *11
406Anasazi LostV6 **8
407Seven FishV3 **6
408Espresso MartiniV6 * 
409Black AiragV1 *7
410Bones of the HillsV4 *3
411Wolf of the PlainsV4 *4
412The Cold FaceV2 5
413PocketsV2 **11
414Jam EaterV1 12
415The £100 Pork ScratchingV2 18
416Swoop and ScoopV2 *14
417The HowellerV3 *14
418DefiladeV1 *16
419Ladies NightV8 **7
420Staunch, BruV2 17
421E.T.V1 *23
422The Three Princes of SerendipV3 **15
423Serendipity PatternV3 **19
424Canada DriedV2 **27
425Le Voie, Le SoleilV2 **12
426Voodoo RayV1 14
427Odyssey to AnyoonaV2 7
428Witch DoktorV3 **9
429Vernon's WonderlandV1 7
430Round RobinV5 **9
431The FlyV5 **9
432Rock and RobinV4 *9
433Boris the CrowbarVB 22
434Snapping at Your ToesV2 13
435Juggy TraverseVB 20
436Parky's PitstopVB 23
437Another Ton of RockV0- 23
438Distant FoxV0- 23
439Noisy BastardsVB 18
440Sunshine TraverseV0- 18
441Shoulder AreteV0- 4
442Head AreteV0+ 1
443Head Arête DirectV0- 3
444Soggy BrainV1 2
445Goodbye Sweet HatV5 1
446Back of The HeadV0- 2
447Shoulder to Cry OnVB 3
448The Strengthy and Reachy ShowV0+ 2
449Vee Zero My ArseV0 3
450One Tree HoleV5 1
451Ant Hill EscapeV3 *1
452Ant Hill Escape Standing StartV2 2
453Tare A PinV3 1
454Swamp Bromance *V4 **1
 THE DITCH  
456Rock Logs6b+ 3
457Gold Dust7b 2
458Ditch the Bitch7a 4
459Pitch in the Ditch6a+ 3
460The Dump Pump6a 6
461This Shit's Something6c+ 1
462Future Imperfect *6a+ 1
463Jacob's Ladder The Cut *5a  
464Elephant on roller skates *4c 17
465Sun Trap *3 21
466Seams the Same *V1 3
467Skaterdater *4c 9
468Anvil arête direct *f6A 5c 1
469Ope in Hell *f7B+ **5
470The Black Parade *f8A+ *** 
471Can't recall it *6b * 
472The Groove *VB 1
473Warm Up Escape *V0 1
474Warm Up Arête Left *V0- 1
475Warm Up Wall *V0+ 1
476Warm Up Arête Right *V0 1
477The Strengthy and Reachy Show (Sit Start) *V2 1
478Banner in the sky *V0 2
479The white tower *V2 2
480And not to yield *V3 2
481Phlogiston *V1 2
482Earth *V0+  
483Juggernaught *5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02