The Cuttings

Climbs 475 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to Îdogâ beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12.

Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat.

Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes
The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaed by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out).

Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings.

The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
2Park LifeV0
3Broken RibV0
4Canyon CrackV0
6Left CrackV0
7Right CrackV0-
8Swings and RoundaboutsV4 **
9Stepped Wall VD
10Zit VS 5a/b
11Undercut Arete VD
12On the Boil VS 4a
13Puffin Billy HVS 5b
14Silent Boulder VS 5a
15Loco HVS 5a/b
16Phat SlabV3 *
17Phats and BigsV5
18The Phat TraverseV2 *
19The Fat ControllerV3
20Phat SlapperV6 *
21PastoralV8 *
22Descent HorizonV3 *
23White BaronV5 *
24White Baron LeftV5
25Gunpowder PlotV5 *
26Guy FawkesV11 *
27FirestarterV6 *
28Subyouth7b+ **
29Flowers on the Razor Wire6c **
30Nu SkoolV6 *
31Stompin' with Bez7b+ **
32My Chemical RomanceV11 ***
33The Fibonacci SequenceV10 *
34Lats, Babes and Bolts7b+ *
35RazorfaceV8 *
36Bogus Roof7b *
37The Unworthy6c **
38The Vulcanites7a *
39Deadlosski Must Die7b *
40Leer of Beethoven7b+ *
41Bunfight at the Portland Corral5c
42Buddleia Boulevard5a
44Elephant on Rollerskates4a
45Limbo Dancer5a
46Beeching's Track E1 6a
47Tipping the Scales7a *
48Pop for the Top6c
49Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus5a
50Space ManouversV4 *
51Nobody Runs for Free6b
52State of Love and Trust6c *
53The Running Man6c
54Bend Sinister7a+ **
55Plyometrically Speaking7b+ *
56Learning Curve E1 5c *
57The Blandford Weasel7b
58Cold Fusion E1 5b
59Crag traverseV5 *
61Eat, Stick and Die2+
62We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel2+
63Choose Your Own Adventure5c *
64Cheese and Pickle4c
65Parsnip Soup5a
66Corporal Punishment5a
67On Manoeuvres3
68Arc Angel2+
69Charity Work Mate3
70Magical Misty Tour3+
72Sting in the Tail5c
73Baron's Revenge3
74Chicken Boy3
75Tantrums and Tiaras3+
76100 Sunny Days3
78Rock Lobster4c
80The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *
81Definitely Maybe6a+ *
82Little Chef5c *
83Little Sod6b **
84The Sod5c *
85Lup Dup6a+ *
86Mindmeld7a+ *
87Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **
88Hillman the Hunter6b+ *
89Hole in the Wall E1 5c
90Flying Peach6b **
91Grapefruit takes a Whipper6b *
92Princess and the Pea6b+
93Pillow Talk6c
94The Cutting Edge6c+ **
95Dumbfounded7b *
96Chalkie and the Hex 55c **
97The Ramp4c *
98Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b+
99Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7b *
100Evening Mistress6b *
101Men Behaving Badly7a
102Amen Corner5a *
103Mousefolk6c *
104Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **
105Jam4a *
106Chips with Everything4c *
107Quality Family Day5a *
108True Love6b+
109Bridget RileyE2 6a *
110The Mind Terrorist7c+ **
111Knockout Punch7b+ *
112SpicerE2 5c *
113Levitation By Proxy6c+ *
114That Chill Divine E2 6a
116Hidden Treasure6a
117Kestrel VS 4c
118Looking for Love E2 5b
119Blowing the Gimp7a+ *
120The Sears Tower7b+ *
121The Holy Hand Grenade7a **
122Brief Encounter6a+ **
123Infernal Din7b+ **
124European Flavour6b **
125Europe Endless6b+ *
127The Breathing Method8a **
128Hall of Mirrors7c ***
129Want Out7b ***
130New Saladin6c **
131Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **
132Consommé6a+ **
133Haute Cuisine7a **
134The Mouth Waters7a+ **
135Two Fingers6a *
136Three Fingers5c *
137Bob HunkhouseV7 *
138Opus4a *
139Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *
140Perihelion6b *
141Disobedience Contest6b *
142Live is Life6b *
143The Potting Shed6a *
144Rules is Rules6b+ *
145Old Buffer6a+ *
146Live by the Sword7a+ **
147Another Notch in the Gun6b **
148Figgy Dropwise6c+ *
149Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c
152Unknown Arete7a+
153The Bournemouth Flyer6b *
154Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c
155Nightmare Scenario7c *
156Modern Nightmare7a **
157Bad Dream E4 6a
158Fighting Torque8a **
159Under Duress7c+ **
160Shiver Me Timbers7a *
161Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **
163Whispering Gallery3
164Queen of the New Year3
166The Bumper Fun Book4a
167Tinkerbell5c *
168Far From The Madding Crowd5a
169Six Finger Exercise6c
172All Bowered Out6a *
174Sjambok the Skelem4c
175The Naughty Corner4a
176West of Vanity Fare6b
177Hot FlushE1 5c
178XerdnaVS 4c
179Hot Fuzz5c
180Don't Bring Your Mum2
181Rain Shadow 1V1
182Rain Shadow 2V0-
183Rain Shadow 3V0-
184Rain Shadow 4V1
185Rain Shadow 5V2
186Rain Shadow 6VB
187Rain Shadow 7V1
188Rain Shadow 8V0-
189Rain Shadow 9V0+
191Voices in the Bower3
192Up the Junction6b *
193Round the Bend6b
194Winter Sun6a
195Time Out of Mind5a
196Voices in the Mind5c
198Rocky and DieselV2 ***
199Made in the ShadeV4 *
200Slim ShadyVB
201Plain AwkwardV3
202Blue Skies - Standing StartV1 *
203Blue Skies - Sit StartV3 *
204Jo's Arete - Standing StartV0+ **
205Jo's Arete - Sit StartV3 *
206Nu Breed - Standing StartV1 *
207Nu Breed - Sit StartV4 ***
209Pleasant GreetingsV6 *
210Old Codes, New ChaosV2
211Global Underground ( standing start)V2
212Global Underground - Sit startV5 *
213PornoV4 *
215GlueV5 *
216Marabou Stork NightmaresV4
217The Bedroom Secrets of the Master ChefsV1
218Acid HouseV7 **
219You'll Have Had Your HoleV4 *
220The TerminatorV6 **
221Queen BeeV5 *
222New boulderfield problem3V6
223Gunmetal LeftVB
224Gunmetal RightVB
225Grizzly StyleV5 *
226Stress FractureV2
227Anvil AreteVB
228Hammer TimeV0 *
229The AnvilV1 *
230Breaking RocksV1 *
231AfricaV4 *
232The RiftV1
233The ProwV4 *
234Liquid SunshineV7 ***
235Liquid Sunshine - Sit StartV8 ***
236Storm RunningV6 **
237Rain Dodging Lower Left StartV7 **
238Rain DodgingV3 *
239A Bracing DampnessV4 *
240FirefightV8 *
241Pinky Power - Standing StartV2
242Pinky Power - Sit StartV6 *
243Full PowerV7 *
244Secret HandshakeV5 **
245Hot RideV7 **
246Gasoline and Apple PieV4 *
247Up to Our Old TricksV1
248Off to ChamV3
249Tim's TraverseV2 *
250Jump and MantelV1 *
251Days of ColourV2 *
252Halfway SlabVB
253Thrupenny BitsV0 *
254Bristol CitiesV0 *
255Halfway TraverseV0
257PolyfillerV2 *
260SpikeV1 *
262GenedefektV1 *
263Green VelvetV5
264La La LandV2
265Minimum RageV3 *
266Waiting for the Day to EndV4
269Southern SoulV4 **
270Non-stickV2 *
271Uncle Ben'sV1
272Lonely VigilV0
273Tommy CliffhangerV3
274Toll Booth Arête - Standing StartV1
275Toll Booth Arete - Sit StartV4 **
276The DominatorV3
277The Dominator - Standing StartV1
278Doogy Howser Gets LaidV3 *
279Doogy Howser Gets VDV5 *
280Lightning StrikeV7 ***
281RelativityV6 ***
282Over the LineVB
283Streamline - Standing StartV2 **
284Streamline - Sit StartV3 **
285Tunnel SlabVB
286Bling, BlingV4
287In Ya FaceV4
288Right In Ya FaceV6 **
289Pornographic BeatsV4 **
290Achilles HeelV3
291Achilles heel directV4
292The Scene, RevisitedV3 **
293Hello Sailor!V2
294The FearV0 *
295I Don't Lichen itV2
296Bird Shit SlabV0+
297Bird Shit AreteV2
298DeclassifiedV7 **
299DugV0 *
302Big WallV2
303Shark BaitV2 *
304Neil ArmstrongV6 ***
305Neil Armstrong + BlockV4 **
306Lemon JellyV3 **
307Lemon Jelly + BlockV2 *
308Bag o' ShiteV3
309The Death of KingsV6 **
310Un-namedV10 *
311GrafenbergV5 *
312First ImpressionsV2 *
313Silent HillV4 *
314Diamond SolitaireV1
315Hung Out to DryV1 *
316SundanceV1 *
317Super NovaVB *
318Sun SpotV0 *
319Wolf NumberVB *
320Coronal Mass EjectionV5 **
321Years Around the SunV7 ***
322Lost DecadeV6 **
323Lamb ShankV4 *
324Rolling StonesV2
325V for VendettaV6 **
326NorsefireV0 *
327Norsefire Sit StartV2 *
328Banana PancakesV3 *
329Full EnglishV4 **
330The Hand of GodV1
331The Hand of TimV1
332Left HookV4 *
333Technical KnockoutV3
334Smoking JoeV6 *
335Right HookV4 **
336SouthpawV3 **
337Sliding HopeV3 *
338Hope SlideV6 **
339Cheese GraterV6 **
340Grate EscapeV4 *
341NapalmV1 *
342I'm a Swinger Baby, YeahV2 *
343Tripomatic FairytalesV4 *
344Downwards SpiralV4 *
345Jabba The HutV0 *
347Southwest AreteV2
348Southeast AreteV2
349Jurassic SlabVB
350Attempted Suicide With lipV0+
351Attempted suicide Without lipV2
352Corridors of PowerV1
353Eco TerroristsV3 *
354Cat KillerV3 ***
355Nine Lives LostV3 **
356Tour de BlocV4 *
357Neal's ProblemV1
358One in TenV2
359Deputy DonutV0 *
360Sheriff Fat ManV1
361Homer SimpsonV1
362Warm-up EscapeV0
363Warm-up WallV0+
364Warm-up Arete LeftVB
365Warm-up Arete RightVB
366Grave RobbingV1
367Don't Touch MeV4 *
368Six Feet UnderV1 *
369The Lip TraverseV2 **
370Lip traverse - sit startV4
371Pop StartV2 *
372The CrackV0 **
373The AreteV3 *
374Little SlabVB
375Trout PoutV3
376Petty ThiefV6 **
377Petty Thief - Lip StartV2 **
378Super Petty ThiefV7
379Split LipV7
380Split Lip - Lip StartV4
381Super Split LipV8
382Lip ServiceV7 *
383Cavity SearchV7 ***
384Lip Service - Lip StartV5 *
385Super Lip ServiceV8
386Cavity Search - Lip StartV4
387Blood BathV5 **
390Ferdinand MagellanV1 *
391Pocket TraverseV2
392TuftyV2 *
393Crouching Start, Hidden AgendaV4 **
394Vasco de GamaV5 **
395Hard LabourV1 **
396Captain CookV2 **
397The World's Best Mono II!V4 **
398Christopher ColumbusV6 **
400Terror AreteV1 *
401Terror TraverseV3 **
402Terror CrackV0+
403Ménage a TroisV2 **
404Bordo Della TerraV7 ***
405The Cutting RoomV6 *
406Anasazi LostV6 **
407Seven FishV3 **
408Espresso MartiniV6 *
409Black AiragV1 *
410Bones of the HillsV4 *
411Wolf of the PlainsV4 *
412The Cold FaceV2
413PocketsV2 **
414Jam EaterV1
415The £100 Pork ScratchingV2
416Swoop and ScoopV2 *
417The HowellerV3 *
418DefiladeV1 *
419Ladies NightV8 **
420Staunch, BruV2
421E.T.V1 *
422The Three Princes of SerendipV3 **
423Serendipity PatternV3 **
424Canada DriedV2 **
425Le Voie, Le SoleilV2 **
426Voodoo RayV1
427Odyssey to AnyoonaV2
428Witch DoktorV3 **
429Vernon's WonderlandV1
430Round RobinV5 **
431The FlyV5 **
432Rock and RobinV4 *
433Boris the CrowbarVB
434Snapping at Your ToesV2
435Juggy TraverseVB
436Parky's PitstopVB
437Another Ton of RockV0-
438Distant FoxV0-
439Noisy BastardsVB
440Sunshine TraverseV0-
441Shoulder AreteV0-
442Head AreteV0+
443Head Arête DirectV0-
444Soggy BrainV1
445Goodbye Sweet HatV5
446Back of The HeadV0-
447Shoulder to Cry OnVB
448The Strengthy and Reachy ShowV0+
449Vee Zero My ArseV0
450One Tree HoleV5
451Ant Hill EscapeV3 *
452Ant Hill Escape Standing StartV2
453Tare A PinV3
454Swamp Bromance *V4 **
456Rock Logs6b+
457Gold Dust7b
458Ditch the Bitch7a
459Pitch in the Ditch6a+
460The Dump Pump6a
461This Shit's Something6c+
462Future Imperfect *6a+
463Jacob's Ladder The Cut *5a
464Elephant on roller skates *4c
465Sun Trap *3
466Seams the Same *V1
467Skaterdater *4c
468Anvil arête direct *f6A 5c
469Ope in Hell *f7B+ **
470The Black Parade *f8A+ ***
471Can't recall it *6b *
472The Groove *VB
473Warm Up Escape *V0
474Warm Up Arête Left *V0-
475Warm Up Wall *V0+
476Warm Up Arête Right *V0
477The Strengthy and Reachy Show (Sit Start) *V2
478Banner in the sky *V0
479The white tower *V2
480And not to yield *V3
481Phlogiston *V1
482Earth *V0+
483Juggernaught *5b
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02