The Cuttings

Climbs 475 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to Îdogâ beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12.

Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat.

Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes
The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaed by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out).

Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings.

The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE NEW CUTTINGS  
2Park LifeV0 1
3Broken RibV0 1
4Canyon CrackV0 21
5GroovyV2 17
6Left CrackV0 33
7Right CrackV0- 39
8Swings and RoundaboutsV4 **21
9Stepped Wall VD  
10Zit VS 5a/b 1
11Undercut Arete VD 1
12On the Boil VS 4a 1
13Puffin Billy HVS 5b 1
14Silent Boulder VS 5a 1
15Loco HVS 5a/b 1
16Phat SlabV3 *8
17Phats and BigsV5 8
18The Phat TraverseV2 *28
19The Fat ControllerV3 14
20Phat SlapperV6 *28
21PastoralV8 *3
22Descent HorizonV3 *7
23White BaronV5 *9
24White Baron LeftV5 3
25Gunpowder PlotV5 *23
26Guy FawkesV11 *7
27FirestarterV6 *8
28Subyouth7b+ **8
29Flowers on the Razor Wire6c **92
30Nu SkoolV6 *6
31Stompin' with Bez7b+ **5
32My Chemical RomanceV11 ***1
33The Fibonacci SequenceV10 *1
34Lats, Babes and Bolts7b+ *5
35RazorfaceV8 *4
36Bogus Roof7b *5
37The Unworthy6c **146
38The Vulcanites7a *69
39Deadlosski Must Die7b *19
40Leer of Beethoven7b+ *17
41Bunfight at the Portland Corral5c 124
42Buddleia Boulevard5a 26
43Skaterdate4c 44
44Elephant on Rollerskates4a 275
45Limbo Dancer5a 167
46Beeching's Track E1 6a 3
47Tipping the Scales7a *52
48Pop for the Top6c 60
49Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus5a 189
50Space ManouversV4 *14
51Nobody Runs for Free6b 6
52State of Love and Trust6c *13
53The Running Man6c 12
54Bend Sinister7a+ **38
55Plyometrically Speaking7b+ *17
56Learning Curve E1 5c *1
57The Blandford Weasel7b 7
58Cold Fusion E1 5b 1
59Crag traverseV5 *10
 CUTTINGS MAIN CLIFF  
61Eat, Stick and Die2+ 285
62We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel2+ 321
63Choose Your Own Adventure5c *14
64Cheese and Pickle4c 132
65Parsnip Soup5a 102
66Corporal Punishment5a 253
67On Manoeuvres3 324
68Arc Angel2+ 237
69Charity Work Mate3 272
70Magical Misty Tour3+ 283
71Bonsai3+ 318
72Sting in the Tail5c 301
73Baron's Revenge3 128
74Chicken Boy3 102
75Tantrums and Tiaras3+ 145
76100 Sunny Days3 247
77Juggernaut5a 387
78Rock Lobster4c 377
79Amazonia4c 634
80The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *729
81Definitely Maybe6a+ *352
82Little Chef5c *559
83Little Sod6b **194
84The Sod5c *630
85Lup Dup6a+ *41
86Mindmeld7a+ *221
87Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **77
88Hillman the Hunter6b+ *133
89Hole in the Wall E1 5c 1
90Flying Peach6b **28
91Grapefruit takes a Whipper6b *39
92Princess and the Pea6b+ 12
93Pillow Talk6c 15
94The Cutting Edge6c+ **306
95Dumbfounded7b *119
96Chalkie and the Hex 55c **619
97The Ramp4c *556
98Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b+ 5
99Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7b *22
100Evening Mistress6b *156
101Men Behaving Badly7a 18
102Amen Corner5a *493
103Mousefolk6c *201
104Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **540
105Jam4a *716
106Chips with Everything4c *675
107Quality Family Day5a *540
108True Love6b+ 22
109Bridget RileyE2 6a *4
110The Mind Terrorist7c+ **6
111Knockout Punch7b+ *9
112SpicerE2 5c *3
113Levitation By Proxy6c+ *38
114That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
115Finesse7a+ 6
116Hidden Treasure6a 82
117Kestrel VS 4c 1
118Looking for Love E2 5b 1
119Blowing the Gimp7a+ *35
120The Sears Tower7b+ *15
121The Holy Hand Grenade7a **154
122Brief Encounter6a+ **388
123Infernal Din7b+ **59
124European Flavour6b **270
125Europe Endless6b+ *55
126Gourmet6a 5
127The Breathing Method8a **18
128Hall of Mirrors7c ***112
129Want Out7b ***101
130New Saladin6c **236
131Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **1
132Consommé6a+ **755
133Haute Cuisine7a **194
134The Mouth Waters7a+ **100
135Two Fingers6a *554
136Three Fingers5c *488
137Bob HunkhouseV7 *11
138Opus4a *571
139Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *274
140Perihelion6b *177
141Disobedience Contest6b *130
142Live is Life6b *26
143The Potting Shed6a *169
144Rules is Rules6b+ *23
145Old Buffer6a+ *103
146Live by the Sword7a+ **174
147Another Notch in the Gun6b **372
148Figgy Dropwise6c+ *56
149Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c 18
150Aperitif5c 59
151Ectomorph6a 87
152Unknown Arete7a+ 17
153The Bournemouth Flyer6b *119
154Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c 1
155Nightmare Scenario7c *26
156Modern Nightmare7a **96
157Bad Dream E4 6a 1
158Fighting Torque8a **46
159Under Duress7c+ **25
160Shiver Me Timbers7a *67
161Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **102
 THE BOWER  
163Whispering Gallery3 182
164Queen of the New Year3 188
165Suntrap3 235
166The Bumper Fun Book4a 267
167Tinkerbell5c *233
168Far From The Madding Crowd5a 194
169Six Finger Exercise6c 134
170Godbeams4a 283
171Ladybower3 135
172All Bowered Out6a *8
 THE DELL - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (LEFT)  
174Sjambok the Skelem4c 24
175The Naughty Corner4a 36
176West of Vanity Fare6b 20
177Hot FlushE1 5c 7
178XerdnaVS 4c 14
179Hot Fuzz5c 19
180Don't Bring Your Mum2 17
181Rain Shadow 1V1 7
182Rain Shadow 2V0- 9
183Rain Shadow 3V0- 9
184Rain Shadow 4V1 8
185Rain Shadow 5V2 8
186Rain Shadow 6VB 8
187Rain Shadow 7V1 6
188Rain Shadow 8V0- 7
189Rain Shadow 9V0+ 6
 THE BOTTOM DECKIO - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (RIGHT)  
191Voices in the Bower3 211
192Up the Junction6b *85
193Round the Bend6b 90
194Winter Sun6a 270
195Time Out of Mind5a 298
196Voices in the Mind5c 35
 THE BOULDERFIELD NORTH  
198Rocky and DieselV2 ***126
199Made in the ShadeV4 *35
200Slim ShadyVB 19
201Plain AwkwardV3 6
202Blue Skies - Standing StartV1 *112
203Blue Skies - Sit StartV3 *15
204Jo's Arete - Standing StartV0+ **151
205Jo's Arete - Sit StartV3 *23
206Nu Breed - Standing StartV1 *75
207Nu Breed - Sit StartV4 ***112
208SimplesV1 9
209Pleasant GreetingsV6 *15
210Old Codes, New ChaosV2 10
211Global Underground ( standing start)V2 8
212Global Underground - Sit startV5 *16
213PornoV4 *4
214FilthV4 1
215GlueV5 *6
216Marabou Stork NightmaresV4 1
217The Bedroom Secrets of the Master ChefsV1 1
218Acid HouseV7 **19
219You'll Have Had Your HoleV4 *1
220The TerminatorV6 **31
221Queen BeeV5 *1
222New boulderfield problem3V6 1
223Gunmetal LeftVB 13
224Gunmetal RightVB 13
225Grizzly StyleV5 *2
226Stress FractureV2 2
227Anvil AreteVB 35
228Hammer TimeV0 *104
229The AnvilV1 *85
230Breaking RocksV1 *76
231AfricaV4 *6
232The RiftV1 12
233The ProwV4 *34
234Liquid SunshineV7 ***15
235Liquid Sunshine - Sit StartV8 ***8
236Storm RunningV6 **6
237Rain Dodging Lower Left StartV7 **9
238Rain DodgingV3 *31
239A Bracing DampnessV4 *17
240FirefightV8 *3
241Pinky Power - Standing StartV2 14
242Pinky Power - Sit StartV6 *43
243Full PowerV7 *2
244Secret HandshakeV5 **21
245Hot RideV7 **12
246Gasoline and Apple PieV4 *6
247Up to Our Old TricksV1 17
248Off to ChamV3 4
249Tim's TraverseV2 *12
250Jump and MantelV1 *18
251Days of ColourV2 *20
252Halfway SlabVB 22
253Thrupenny BitsV0 *43
254Bristol CitiesV0 *42
255Halfway TraverseV0 19
256In-fillerV1 14
257PolyfillerV2 *16
258Filler-InV1 15
259BuffyV1 8
260SpikeV1 *7
261HarmageddonV4 2
262GenedefektV1 *18
263Green VelvetV5 2
264La La LandV2 14
265Minimum RageV3 *12
266Waiting for the Day to EndV4 5
267SoulessV3 2
268SoulfulV3 10
269Southern SoulV4 **40
270Non-stickV2 *15
271Uncle Ben'sV1 14
272Lonely VigilV0 98
273Tommy CliffhangerV3 36
274Toll Booth Arête - Standing StartV1 21
275Toll Booth Arete - Sit StartV4 **30
276The DominatorV3 30
277The Dominator - Standing StartV1 17
278Doogy Howser Gets LaidV3 *9
279Doogy Howser Gets VDV5 *6
280Lightning StrikeV7 ***48
281RelativityV6 ***71
282Over the LineVB 18
283Streamline - Standing StartV2 **23
284Streamline - Sit StartV3 **95
285Tunnel SlabVB 40
286Bling, BlingV4 58
287In Ya FaceV4 32
288Right In Ya FaceV6 **5
289Pornographic BeatsV4 **21
290Achilles HeelV3 33
291Achilles heel directV4 6
292The Scene, RevisitedV3 **33
293Hello Sailor!V2 27
294The FearV0 *44
295I Don't Lichen itV2 5
296Bird Shit SlabV0+ 8
297Bird Shit AreteV2 7
298DeclassifiedV7 **11
299DugV0 *21
300DigV2 21
301TTTV2 14
302Big WallV2 13
303Shark BaitV2 *10
304Neil ArmstrongV6 ***40
305Neil Armstrong + BlockV4 **8
306Lemon JellyV3 **39
307Lemon Jelly + BlockV2 *5
308Bag o' ShiteV3 6
309The Death of KingsV6 **16
310Un-namedV10 * 
311GrafenbergV5 *19
312First ImpressionsV2 *9
313Silent HillV4 *7
314Diamond SolitaireV1 7
315Hung Out to DryV1 *33
316SundanceV1 *30
317Super NovaVB *29
318Sun SpotV0 *33
319Wolf NumberVB *32
320Coronal Mass EjectionV5 **30
321Years Around the SunV7 ***8
322Lost DecadeV6 **25
323Lamb ShankV4 *15
324Rolling StonesV2 17
325V for VendettaV6 **17
326NorsefireV0 *6
327Norsefire Sit StartV2 *10
328Banana PancakesV3 *12
329Full EnglishV4 **11
330The Hand of GodV1 6
331The Hand of TimV1 6
332Left HookV4 *9
333Technical KnockoutV3 6
334Smoking JoeV6 *10
335Right HookV4 **10
336SouthpawV3 **8
337Sliding HopeV3 *1
338Hope SlideV6 **4
339Cheese GraterV6 **3
340Grate EscapeV4 *2
341NapalmV1 *14
342I'm a Swinger Baby, YeahV2 *11
343Tripomatic FairytalesV4 *6
344Downwards SpiralV4 *4
345Jabba The HutV0 *8
346Ouch!V3 17
347Southwest AreteV2 25
348Southeast AreteV2 18
349Jurassic SlabVB 27
350Attempted Suicide With lipV0+ 4
351Attempted suicide Without lipV2 4
352Corridors of PowerV1 7
353Eco TerroristsV3 *10
354Cat KillerV3 ***57
355Nine Lives LostV3 **17
356Tour de BlocV4 *7
357Neal's ProblemV1 54
358One in TenV2 45
359Deputy DonutV0 *74
360Sheriff Fat ManV1 66
361Homer SimpsonV1 46
362Warm-up EscapeV0 42
363Warm-up WallV0+ 37
364Warm-up Arete LeftVB 41
365Warm-up Arete RightVB 31
366Grave RobbingV1 7
367Don't Touch MeV4 *4
368Six Feet UnderV1 *8
369The Lip TraverseV2 **78
370Lip traverse - sit startV4 5
371Pop StartV2 *13
372The CrackV0 **143
373The AreteV3 *96
374Little SlabVB 7
375Trout PoutV3 37
376Petty ThiefV6 **44
377Petty Thief - Lip StartV2 **45
378Super Petty ThiefV7 2
379Split LipV7 23
380Split Lip - Lip StartV4 39
381Super Split LipV8 1
382Lip ServiceV7 *7
383Cavity SearchV7 ***26
384Lip Service - Lip StartV5 *2
385Super Lip ServiceV8 1
386Cavity Search - Lip StartV4 23
387Blood BathV5 **12
388IncisorV0+ 8
389CanineV0+ 6
390Ferdinand MagellanV1 *14
391Pocket TraverseV2 26
392TuftyV2 *97
393Crouching Start, Hidden AgendaV4 **77
394Vasco de GamaV5 **16
395Hard LabourV1 **121
396Captain CookV2 **95
397The World's Best Mono II!V4 **37
398Christopher ColumbusV6 **10
 THE BOULDERFIELD SOUTH  
400Terror AreteV1 *4
401Terror TraverseV3 **2
402Terror CrackV0+ 8
403Ménage a TroisV2 **30
404Bordo Della TerraV7 ***13
405The Cutting RoomV6 *11
406Anasazi LostV6 **8
407Seven FishV3 **5
408Espresso MartiniV6 * 
409Black AiragV1 *6
410Bones of the HillsV4 *3
411Wolf of the PlainsV4 *2
412The Cold FaceV2 4
413PocketsV2 **9
414Jam EaterV1 10
415The £100 Pork ScratchingV2 17
416Swoop and ScoopV2 *12
417The HowellerV3 *12
418DefiladeV1 *13
419Ladies NightV8 **7
420Staunch, BruV2 14
421E.T.V1 *23
422The Three Princes of SerendipV3 **15
423Serendipity PatternV3 **19
424Canada DriedV2 **27
425Le Voie, Le SoleilV2 **12
426Voodoo RayV1 14
427Odyssey to AnyoonaV2 6
428Witch DoktorV3 **9
429Vernon's WonderlandV1 7
430Round RobinV5 **9
431The FlyV5 **9
432Rock and RobinV4 *9
433Boris the CrowbarVB 19
434Snapping at Your ToesV2 11
435Juggy TraverseVB 17
436Parky's PitstopVB 20
437Another Ton of RockV0- 20
438Distant FoxV0- 21
439Noisy BastardsVB 15
440Sunshine TraverseV0- 16
441Shoulder AreteV0- 4
442Head AreteV0+ 1
443Head Arête DirectV0- 3
444Soggy BrainV1 2
445Goodbye Sweet HatV5 1
446Back of The HeadV0- 2
447Shoulder to Cry OnVB 3
448The Strengthy and Reachy ShowV0+ 2
449Vee Zero My ArseV0 3
450One Tree HoleV5 1
451Ant Hill EscapeV3 *1
452Ant Hill Escape Standing StartV2 2
453Tare A PinV3 1
454Swamp Bromance *V4 **1
 THE DITCH  
456Rock Logs6b+ 3
457Gold Dust7b 2
458Ditch the Bitch7a 4
459Pitch in the Ditch6a+ 3
460The Dump Pump6a 6
461This Shit's Something6c+ 1
462Future Imperfect *6a+ 1
463Jacob's Ladder The Cut *5a  
464Elephant on roller skates *4c 13
465Sun Trap *3 18
466Seams the Same *V1 2
467Skaterdater *4c 6
468Anvil arête direct *f6A 5c 1
469Ope in Hell *f7B+ **5
470The Black Parade *f8A+ *** 
471Can't recall it *6b * 
472The Groove *VB 1
473Warm Up Escape *V0  
474Warm Up Arête Left *V0-  
475Warm Up Wall *V0+  
476Warm Up Arête Right *V0  
477The Strengthy and Reachy Show (Sit Start) *V2 1
478Banner in the sky *V0 2
479The white tower *V2 2
480And not to yield *V3 2
481Phlogiston *V1 1
482Earth *V0+  
483Juggernaught *5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02