The Cuttings

Climbs 476 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to Îdogâ beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12. Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat. Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes

The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaced by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out). Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings. The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset Bouldering (2015), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE NEW CUTTINGS  
2Park LifeV0 1
3Broken RibV0 1
4Canyon CrackV0 21
5GroovyV2 17
6Seams the SameV1 4
7Left CrackV0 34
8Right CrackV0- 41
9Swings and RoundaboutsV4 **21
10Stepped Wall VD  
11Zit VS 5a/b 1
12Undercut Arete VD 1
13On the Boil VS 4a 1
14Puffin Billy HVS 5b 1
15Silent Boulder VS 5a 1
16Loco HVS 5a/b 1
17Phat SlabV3 *8
18Phats and Bigsf6C 8
19The Phat Traversef5+ *28
20The Fat Controllerf6A 14
21Phat Slapperf7A *30
22Pastoralf7B+ *3
23Descent Horizonf6A *7
24White Baronf6C *10
25White Baron Leftf6C 3
26Gunpowder Plotf6C *25
27Guy Fawkesf7C+ *8
28Firestarterf7A *9
29Subyouth7b+ **8
30Flowers on the Razor Wire6c **102
31Nu Skoolf7A *6
32Stompin' with Bez7c **6
33Stompin' with Bez Start *f7B ***1
34My Chemical RomanceV11 ***1
35The Black Paradef8A+ ***1
36The Fibonacci Sequence7c+ *1
37Lats, Babes and Bolts7b+ *5
38Razorfacef7B+ *4
39Bogus Roof7b *5
40The Unworthy6c **150
41The Vulcanites7a *70
42Deadlosski Must Die7b *19
43Leer of Beethoven7b+ *18
44Bunfight at the Portland Corral5c *136
45Buddleia Boulevard4c 32
46Skaterdate4c 57
47Elephant on Rollerskates4c *318
48Limbo Dancer5c *183
49Beeching's Track E1 6a 3
50Tipping the Scales7a *60
51Pop for the Top6c *65
52Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus4c *200
53Space ManouversV4 *15
54Nobody Runs for Free6b 6
55State of Love and Trust6c *15
56The Running Man6c+ *13
57Bend Sinister7a+ **40
58Plyometrically Speaking7b+ *17
59Learning Curve E1 5c *1
60The Blandford Weasel7b 7
61Cold Fusion E1 5b 1
62Crag traverseV5 *10
 CUTTINGS MAIN CLIFF  
64Eat, Stick and Die2 303
65We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel3 338
66Choose Your Own Adventure5c *16
67Cheese and Pickle4c 142
68Parsnip Soup5a 111
69Corporal Punishment5a 262
70On Manoeuvres3 335
71Arc Angel2+ 249
72Charity Work Mate3 279
73Magical Misty Tour3+ 288
74Bonsai3+ 328
75Sting in the Tail5c 309
76Baron's Revenge3+ 140
77Chicken Boy3+ 108
78Tantrums and Tiaras3+ 154
79100 Sunny Days3 263
80Juggernaut5a 402
81Rock Lobster4c 390
82Amazonia4c *660
83The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *750
84Definitely Maybe6a+ *359
85Little Chef5c *586
86Little Sod6b *206
87The Sod5c *656
88Lup Dup6a+ *43
89Mindmeld7a+ *230
90Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **83
91Hillman the Hunter6b+ *137
92Hole in the Wall E1 5c 1
93Flying Peach6b *30
94Grapefruit takes a Whipper6a+ *43
95Princess and the Pea6b+ 14
96Pillow Talk6c 17
97The Cutting Edge6c+ ***333
98Dumbfounded7b *131
99Can't recall it *6b * 
100Chalkie and the Hex 55c **664
101The Ramp5a *583
102Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b 5
103Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7c *22
104Evening Mistress6b *166
105Men Behaving Badly7a+ *19
106Amen Corner5a **536
107Mousefolk6c *213
108Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **568
109Jam4c **757
110Chips with Everything5a *722
111Quality Family Day4c **589
112True Love6b+ 24
113Bridget RileyE2 6a *4
114The Mind Terrorist7c+ **8
115Knockout Punch7b+ *9
116SpicerE2 5c *3
117Levitation By Proxy6c *41
118That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
119Finesse7a 8
120Hidden Treasure6a *100
121Kestrel VS 4c 1
122Looking for Love E2 5b 1
123Blowing the Gimp7a+ *36
124The Sears Tower7b+ *15
125The Holy Hand Grenade7a **167
126Brief Encounter6b **407
127Infernal Din7b+ ***63
128European Flavour6b **287
129Europe Endless6b+ **59
130Gourmet6a 7
131The Breathing Method8a ***23
132Hall of Mirrors7c ***126
133Want Out7b ***105
134New Saladin6c **251
135Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **2
136Consommé6a+ **802
137Haute Cuisine7a **205
138The Mouth Waters7a+ **104
139Two Fingers6a **594
140Three Fingers6a *522
141Bob Hunkhousef7A+ *12
142Opus5a *602
143Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *293
144Perihelion6b **185
145Disobedience Contest6b **139
146Live is Life6b *32
147The Potting Shed6a *198
148Rules is Rules6b+ 29
149Old Buffer6b *114
150Live by the Sword7a+ **185
151Another Notch in the Gun6b **395
152Figgy Dropwise6c+ *56
153Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c 18
154Aperitif5c 67
155Ectomorph6a *95
156Unknown Arete7a+ 19
157The Bournemouth Flyer6b *120
158Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c 1
159Nightmare Scenario7c **27
160Modern Nightmare7a **107
161Bad Dream E4 6a 1
162Fighting Torque8a **46
163Under Duress7c+ **24
164Shiver Me Timbers7a *68
165Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **105
 THE BOWER  
167Whispering Gallery2 203
168Queen of the New Year2+ 212
169Suntrap3 283
170The Bumper Fun Book4a *300
171Tinkerbell6a *256
172Far From The Madding Crowd5c *213
173Six Finger Exercise6b+ *147
174Godbeams4a *312
175Ladybower3 *147
176All Bowered Out6a *11
 THE DELL - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (LEFT)  
178Sjambok the Skelem4c 27
179The Naughty Corner4a 42
180West of Vanity Fare6b 22
181Hot FlushE1 5c 7
182XerdnaVS 4c 14
183Hot Fuzz5c 22
184Don't Bring Your Mum2 20
185Rain Shadow 1V1 9
186Rain Shadow 2V0- 11
187Rain Shadow 3V0- 11
188Rain Shadow 4V1 10
189Rain Shadow 5V2 10
190Rain Shadow 6VB 10
191Rain Shadow 7V1 8
192Rain Shadow 8V0- 9
193Rain Shadow 9V0+ 8
 THE BOTTOM DECKIO - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (RIGHT)  
195Voices in the Bower3 234
196Up the Junction6b *95
197Round the Bend6b *99
198Winter Sun6a *294
199Time Out of Mind5a 324
200Voices in the Mind5c *40
 THE BOULDERFIELD NORTH  
202Rocky and Dieself5+ ***132
203Made in the Shadef6B 36
204Slim ShadyVB 21
205Plain AwkwardV3 7
206Blue Skies - Standing Startf5 *118
207Blue Skies - Sit StartV3 *17
208Jo's Arete - Standing Startf4 **162
209Jo's Arete - Sit StartV3 *25
210Nu Breed - Standing StartV1 *85
211Nu Breed - Sit Startf6B ***126
212SimplesV1 11
213Pleasant GreetingsV6 *16
214Old Codes, New ChaosV2 11
215Global Underground ( standing start)V2 10
216Global Underground - Sit startf6B *17
217Pornof6B *4
218FilthV4 1
219Gluef6C *7
220Marabou Stork NightmaresV4 1
221The Bedroom Secrets of the Master ChefsV1 1
222Acid Housef7A **22
223You'll Have Had Your HoleV4 *1
224The TerminatorV6 **40
225Queen BeeV5 *1
226New boulderfield problem3V6 1
227Gunmetal LeftVB 16
228Gunmetal RightVB 16
229Grizzly StyleV5 *2
230Stress FractureV2 2
231Anvil AreteVB 45
232Hammer Timef4 *122
233The Anvilf5 *94
234Breaking Rocksf5 *86
235Africaf6B *7
236The RiftV1 14
237The Prowf6B *36
238Liquid Sunshinef7A+ ***17
239Liquid Sunshine - Sit StartV8 ***11
240Storm RunningV6 **6
241Rain Dodging Lower Left StartV7 **13
242Rain Dodgingf6A *34
243A Bracing Dampnessf6B *18
244FirefightV8 *3
245Pinky Power - Standing StartV2 18
246Pinky Power - Sit Startf7A *49
247Full PowerV7 *4
248Secret Handshakef6C **25
249Hot Ridef7A+ **21
250Gasoline and Apple PieV4 *6
251Up to Our Old TricksV1 18
252Off to ChamV3 4
253Tim's Traversef5+ *12
254Jump and MantelV1 *18
255Days of Colourf5+ *20
256Halfway SlabVB 26
257Thrupenny BitsV0 *50
258Bristol CitiesV0 *49
259Halfway TraverseV0 23
260In-fillerV1 15
261PolyfillerV2 *17
262Filler-InV1 16
263BuffyV1 8
264SpikeV1 *8
265HarmageddonV4 2
266GenedefektV1 *20
267Green VelvetV5 2
268La La LandV2 15
269Minimum RageV3 *13
270Waiting for the Day to EndV4 5
271SoulessV3 2
272SoulfulV3 10
273Southern Soulf6B **42
274Non-stickV2 *18
275Uncle Ben'sV1 16
276Lonely Vigilf4 105
277Tommy Cliffhangerf6A 38
278Toll Booth Arête - Standing StartV1 25
279Toll Booth Arete - Sit Startf7A+ *32
280The Dominatorf6A 32
281The Dominator - Standing StartV1 20
282Doogy Howser Gets Laidf6A *9
283Doogy Howser Gets VDf6C *6
284Lightning Strikef7A+ ***60
285Relativityf6B ***77
286Over the LineVB 26
287Streamline - Standing StartV2 **30
288Streamline - Sit Startf5+ **100
289Tunnel SlabVB 47
290Bling, Blingf6B 61
291In Ya Facef6B 41
292Right In Ya FaceV6 **13
293Pornographic Beatsf6B **26
294Achilles Heelf6A 39
295Achilles heel directV4 8
296The Scene, Revisitedf6A **35
297Hello Sailor!f5+ 31
298The Fearf4 *46
299I Don't Lichen itV2 8
300Bird Shit SlabV0+ 12
301Bird Shit AreteV2 11
302DeclassifiedV7 **14
303DugV0 *23
304DigV2 23
305TTTV2 16
306Big WallV2 15
307Shark BaitV2 *11
308Neil Armstrongf7A ***43
309Neil Armstrong + BlockV4 **11
310Lemon Jellyf6A **39
311Lemon Jelly + BlockV2 *9
312Bag o' ShiteV3 7
313The Death of Kingsf7A **17
314Un-namedf7A+ * 
315GrafenbergV5 *21
316First Impressionsf5+ *11
317Silent Hillf6B *7
318Diamond SolitaireV1 9
319Hung Out to DryV1 *38
320SundanceV1 *37
321Super NovaVB *35
322Sun SpotV0 *39
323Wolf NumberVB *39
324Coronal Mass EjectionV5 **37
325Years Around the SunV7 ***16
326Lost DecadeV6 **31
327Lamb ShankV4 *17
328Rolling StonesV2 20
329V for VendettaV6 **23
330NorsefireV0 *11
331Norsefire Sit StartV2 *13
332Banana PancakesV3 *13
333Full EnglishV4 **11
334The Hand of GodV1 7
335The Hand of TimV1 7
336Left HookV4 *9
337Technical KnockoutV3 6
338Smoking JoeV6 *10
339Right HookV4 **10
340SouthpawV3 **9
341Sliding HopeV3 *1
342Hope Slidef6C **5
343Cheese Graterf7A **3
344Grate Escapef6B *3
345Napalmf5 *14
346I'm a Swinger Baby, Yeahf5+ *11
347Tripomatic Fairytalesf6B *6
348Downwards Spiralf6B *4
349Jabba The HutV0 *12
350Ouch!V3 19
351Southwest AreteV2 29
352Southeast AreteV2 25
353Jurassic SlabVB 35
354Attempted Suicide With lipV0+ 6
355Attempted suicide Without lipV2 4
356Corridors of PowerV1 8
357Eco Terroristsf6A *10
358Cat Killerf6A ***57
359Nine Lives Lostf6A **17
360Tour de Blocf6B *7
361Neal's ProblemV1 67
362One in TenV2 53
363Deputy DonutV0 *94
364Sheriff Fat ManV1 81
365Homer SimpsonV1 55
366Warm-up EscapeV0 53
367Warm-up WallV0+ 45
368Warm-up Arete LeftVB 51
369Warm-up Arete RightVB 41
370Grave Robbingf5 7
371Don't Touch Mef6B *4
372Six Feet Underf5 *8
373The Lip Traversef5+ **82
374Lip traverse - sit startV4 6
375Pop StartV2 *13
376The Crackf4 **158
377The Aretef6A *104
378Little SlabVB 11
379Trout Poutf6A 44
380Petty Thieff7A **46
381Petty Thief - Lip StartV2 **54
382Super Petty ThiefV7 2
383Split Lipf7A+ 24
384Split Lip - Lip StartV4 44
385Super Split LipV8 1
386Lip Servicef7A+ *8
387Cavity Searchf7A+ ***27
388Lip Service - Lip StartV5 *3
389Super Lip ServiceV8 1
390Cavity Search - Lip StartV4 23
391Blood Bathf6C **12
392IncisorV0+ 9
393CanineV0+ 7
394Ferdinand MagellanV1 *19
395Pocket Traversef5+ 27
396Tuftyf5+ *111
397Crouching Start, Hidden Agendaf6B **85
398Vasco de GamaV5 **19
399Hard Labourf5 **138
400Captain Cookf5+ **103
401The World's Best Mono II!f6B **41
402Christopher Columbusf7A **10
 THE BOULDERFIELD SOUTH  
404Terror AreteV1 *5
405Terror TraverseV3 **3
406Terror CrackV0+ 12
407Ménage a Troisf5+ **32
408Bordo Della Terraf7A+ ***13
409The Cutting Roomf7A *11
410Anasazi LostV6 **9
411Seven FishV3 **6
412Espresso MartiniV6 * 
413Black AiragV1 *7
414Bones of the HillsV4 *3
415Wolf of the PlainsV4 *4
416The Cold FaceV2 5
417PocketsV2 **12
418Jam EaterV1 13
419The £100 Pork ScratchingV2 19
420Swoop and ScoopV2 *14
421The HowellerV3 *15
422DefiladeV1 *19
423Ladies NightV8 **7
424Staunch, BruV2 19
425E.T.V1 *24
426The Three Princes of SerendipV3 **16
427Serendipity PatternV3 **20
428Canada DriedV2 **28
429Le Voie, Le SoleilV2 **12
430Voodoo RayV1 14
431Odyssey to AnyoonaV2 7
432Witch DoktorV3 **9
433Vernon's WonderlandV1 7
434Round RobinV5 **9
435The FlyV5 **9
436Rock and RobinV4 *9
437Boris the CrowbarVB 24
438Snapping at Your ToesV2 14
439Juggy TraverseVB 20
440Parky's PitstopVB 24
441Another Ton of RockV0- 25
442Distant FoxV0- 25
443Noisy BastardsVB 19
444Sunshine TraverseV0- 20
445Shoulder AreteV0- 4
446Head AreteV0+ 1
447Head Arête DirectV0- 3
448Soggy BrainV1 2
449Goodbye Sweet HatV5 1
450Back of The HeadV0- 2
451Shoulder to Cry OnVB 3
452The Strengthy and Reachy ShowV0+ 2
453The Strengthy and Reachy Show (Sit Start) *V2 2
454Vee Zero My ArseV0 3
455One Tree HoleV5 1
456Ant Hill EscapeV3 *1
457Ant Hill Escape Standing StartV2 2
458Tare A PinV3 1
459Swamp Bromance *V4 **1
 THE DITCH  
461Rock Logs6b+ 3
462Gold Dust7b 2
463Ditch the Bitch7a 4
464Pitch in the Ditch6a+ 3
465The Dump Pump6a 6
466This Shit's Something6c+ 1
467Ope in Hell *f7B+ **5
468The Groove *VB 2
469Banner in the sky *V0 3
470The white tower *V2 4
471And not to yield *V3 4
472Phlogiston *V1 3
473Earth *V0+ 1
474Juggernaught *5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02