The Cuttings

Climbs 476 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features

The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to dog beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12. Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat. Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes

The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaced by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out). Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings. The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
Dorset Bouldering (2015), Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 CUTTINGS MAIN CLIFF  
2Eat, Stick and Die2 308
3We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel3 345
4Choose Your Own Adventure5c *16
5Cheese and Pickle4c 148
6Parsnip Soup5a 114
7Corporal Punishment5a 263
8On Manoeuvres3 339
9Arc Angel2+ 253
10Charity Work Mate3 284
11Magical Misty Tour3+ 290
12Bonsai3+ 332
13Sting in the Tail5c 311
14Baron's Revenge3+ 144
15Chicken Boy3+ 112
16Tantrums and Tiaras3+ 156
17100 Sunny Days3 271
18Juggernaut5a 407
19Rock Lobster4c 395
20Amazonia4c *668
21The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *756
22Definitely Maybe6a+ *366
23Little Chef5c *596
24Little Sod6b *211
25The Sod5c *669
26Lup Dup6a+ *43
27Mindmeld7a+ *234
28Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **85
29Hillman the Hunter6b+ *137
30Hole in the Wall E1 5c 2
31Flying Peach6b *30
32Grapefruit takes a Whipper6a+ *43
33Princess and the Pea6b+ 14
34Pillow Talk6c 17
35The Cutting Edge6c+ ***342
36Dumbfounded7b *132
37Can't recall it *6b * 
38Chalkie and the Hex 55c **681
39The Ramp5a *599
40Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b 5
41Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7c *22
42Evening Mistress6b *173
43Men Behaving Badly7a+ *19
44Amen Corner5a **551
45Mousefolk6c *215
46Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **582
47Jam4c **772
48Chips with Everything5a *738
49Quality Family Day4c **613
50True Love6b+ 24
51Bridget RileyE2 6a *5
52The Mind Terrorist7c+ **8
53Knockout Punch7b+ *10
54SpicerE2 5c *3
55Levitation By Proxy6c *41
56That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
57Finesse7a 8
58Hidden Treasure6a *103
59Kestrel VS 4c 2
60Looking for Love E2 5b 2
61Blowing the Gimp7a+ *39
62The Sears Tower7b+ *15
63The Holy Hand Grenade7a **169
64Brief Encounter6b **415
65Infernal Din7b+ ***64
66European Flavour6b **292
67Europe Endless6b+ **61
68Gourmet6a 8
69The Breathing Method8a ***23
70Hall of Mirrors7c ***133
71Want Out7b ***106
72New Saladin6c **256
73Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **2
74Consommé6a+ **818
75Haute Cuisine7a **207
76The Mouth Waters7a+ **107
77Two Fingers6a **617
78Three Fingers6a *537
79Bob Hunkhousef7A+ *12
80Opus5a *613
81Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *304
82Perihelion6b **192
83Disobedience Contest6b **140
84Live is Life6b *32
85The Potting Shed6a *204
86Rules is Rules6b+ 29
87Old Buffer6b *118
88Live by the Sword7a+ **193
89Another Notch in the Gun6b **407
90Figgy Dropwise6c+ *57
91Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c 18
92Aperitif5c 69
93Ectomorph6a *97
94Unknown Arete7a+ 19
95The Bournemouth Flyer6b *123
96Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c 2
97Nightmare Scenario7c **30
98Modern Nightmare7a **113
99Bad Dream E4 6a 1
100Fighting Torque8a **47
101Under Duress7c+ **24
102Shiver Me Timbers7a *68
103Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **106
 THE BOWER  
105Whispering Gallery2 210
106Queen of the New Year2+ 221
107Suntrap3 291
108The Bumper Fun Book4a *309
109Tinkerbell6a *258
110Far From The Madding Crowd5c *218
111Six Finger Exercise6b+ *151
112Godbeams4a *320
113Ladybower3 *151
114All Bowered Out6a *11
 SUNLOVERS SLAB  
116Come on Eileen6a+ *25
117Grand Tour6a+ *11
118Boys Will Be Girls6c+ *16
119Shockwave5c *31
120Sunlover5a *31
121The Portland Crowd5a *39
 THE DELL - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (LEFT)  
123Sjambok the Skelem4c 30
124The Naughty Corner4a 44
125West of Vanity Fare6b 26
126Hot FlushE1 5c 8
127XerdnaVS 4c 15
128Hot Fuzz5c 24
129Don't Bring Your Mum2 21
 THE BOTTOM DECKIO - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (RIGHT)  
131Voices in the Bower3 244
132Up the Junction6b *99
133Round the Bend6b *103
134Winter Sun6a *302
135Time Out of Mind5a 332
136Voices in the Mind5c *41
 THE DITCH  
138Rock Logs6b+ 3
139Gold Dust7b 2
140Ditch the Bitch7a 4
141Pitch in the Ditch6a+ 3
142The Dump Pump6a 6
143This Shit's Something6c+ 1
144Juggernaught *5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ben Stokes

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14
Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13
The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08
Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06
The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05
Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04
I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02