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These details were last updated on 03/Jun/2014

The Cuttings

Dorset, ENGLAND

Climbs 474 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
The Cuttings is an excellent and popular inland crag with a fine aspect looking out towards the Purbecks across Weymouth Bay. The crag is in fact an old railway cutting which has left several contrasting walls rising directly from a flat clear base. Although mainly quarried the climbs are highly varied on good clean vertical rock giving routes which need lots of finger strength and technique. It is a superb morning venue (often too hot in the summer) with routes to suit all grades of climber from VS to 8a. There is also a beginners sector especially set up for groups and individuals to cut their teeth on. However the best quality routes are the numerous cracking powerful test-pieces which are attractive enough to encourage many climbers to Îdogâ beyond their capabilities. The variety of climbing has been added to recently with some quality bouldering at the New Cuttings from V0 to a mega hard V12.

Some of these problems can be high so bring a bouldering mat.

Climbs at 'the Ditch' are included for historical reasons only: the Ditch was excavated during the winter of 2008/ 2009.

Access notes
The Cuttings is 5 minutes from the road behind the terraced houses in Easton. Park in the main street near the Portland Museum. The guide books will say to park near the Mermaid Inn however this pub is no longer there, it has been replaed by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens. Unfortunately, at time of writing, no sign hangs outside the Tea Gardens Property. It is 195 Wakeham (DT5 1HS). Alternatively park down the road, around the bend from the museum, in Church Ope Car Park, this is a free car park. This is better in that you won't annoy the house owners of Easton so much. The drawback is that it is secluded and ripe for car theft so leave an empty car. Just by The Mermaid House Tea Gardens, next to the bridge, a track leads east for 30m toward waste ground alongside houses. Then a small track ducks through some bushes to follow a wide dirt track up an incline for 200m to a summit. Another track leads rightwards to reach the Main Cuttings above a covered pipeline. The shorter New Cuttings is just to the right (looking out).

Another more direct approach (with no uphill bit for the lazy boulderers) is to follow a track leading directly east out of the back of the Mermaid Tea Gardens car park which leads to the coast path running past the New Cuttings.

The Ditch - Sadly this venue(and its routes) are no more!
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

1.7mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
31 kph

0.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
33 kph

3.1mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
29 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
17 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
19 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Dorset (2012), West Country Climbs (2010), Portland (2008), Dorset Route Database (2000), Swanage and Portland (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005), Dorset 2000 - Fax11 (2000), Dorset 1994 - Fax05 (1994)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 THE NEW CUTTINGS  
2Park LifeV0 1
3Broken RibV0 1
4Canyon CrackV0 21
5GroovyV2 17
6Left CrackV0 33
7Right CrackV0- 39
8Swings and RoundaboutsV4 **21
9Stepped Wall VD  
10Zit VS 5a/b 1
11Undercut Arete VD 1
12On the Boil VS 4a 1
13Puffin Billy HVS 5b 1
14Silent Boulder VS 5a 1
15Loco HVS 5a/b 1
16Phat SlabV3 *8
17Phats and BigsV5 8
18The Phat TraverseV2 *28
19The Fat ControllerV3 14
20Phat SlapperV6 *29
21PastoralV8 *3
22Descent HorizonV3 *7
23White BaronV5 *9
24White Baron LeftV5 3
25Gunpowder PlotV5 *23
26Guy FawkesV11 *8
27FirestarterV6 *8
28Subyouth7b+ **8
29Flowers on the Razor Wire6c **92
30Nu SkoolV6 *6
31Stompin' with Bez7b+ **5
32My Chemical RomanceV11 ***1
33The Fibonacci SequenceV10 *1
34Lats, Babes and Bolts7b+ *5
35RazorfaceV8 *4
36Bogus Roof7b *5
37The Unworthy6c **145
38The Vulcanites7a *69
39Deadlosski Must Die7b *19
40Leer of Beethoven7b+ *17
41Bunfight at the Portland Corral5c 121
42Buddleia Boulevard5a 26
43Skaterdate4c 44
44Elephant on Rollerskates4a 271
45Limbo Dancer5a 161
46Beeching's Track E1 6a 3
47Tipping the Scales7a *52
48Pop for the Top6c 60
49Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus5a 185
50Space ManouversV4 *14
51Nobody Runs for Free6b 6
52State of Love and Trust6c *11
53The Running Man6c 12
54Bend Sinister7a+ **37
55Plyometrically Speaking7b+ *17
56Learning Curve E1 5c *1
57The Blandford Weasel7b 7
58Cold Fusion E1 5b 1
59Crag traverseV5 *10
 CUTTINGS MAIN CLIFF  
61Eat, Stick and Die2+ 281
62We're Only Placing Bolts for Nigel2+ 310
63Choose Your Own Adventure5c *13
64Cheese and Pickle4c 128
65Parsnip Soup5a 100
66Corporal Punishment5a 250
67On Manoeuvres3 321
68Arc Angel2+ 233
69Charity Work Mate3 267
70Magical Misty Tour3+ 280
71Bonsai3+ 314
72Sting in the Tail5c 299
73Baron's Revenge3 127
74Chicken Boy3 99
75Tantrums and Tiaras3+ 143
76100 Sunny Days3 238
77Juggernaut5a 382
78Rock Lobster4c 371
79Amazonia4c 627
80The Great Hamburger Disaster4c *723
81Definitely Maybe6a+ *349
82Little Chef5c *555
83Little Sod6b **191
84The Sod5c *622
85Lup Dup6a+ *38
86Mindmeld7a+ *218
87Sign of the Vulcan7b+ **77
88Hillman the Hunter6b+ *132
89Hole in the Wall E1 5c 1
90Flying Peach6b **27
91Grapefruit takes a Whipper6b *38
92Princess and the Pea6b+ 12
93Pillow Talk6c 15
94The Cutting Edge6c+ **299
95Dumbfounded7b *116
96Chalkie and the Hex 55c **612
97The Ramp4c *551
98Lusty Wedlock Needs Coil of Prevention7b+ 5
99Rusty Chubblock Needs Oil of Lubrication7b *22
100Evening Mistress6b *156
101Men Behaving Badly7a 18
102Amen Corner5a *488
103Mousefolk6c *197
104Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth6b **538
105Jam4a *710
106Chips with Everything4c *670
107Quality Family Day5a *529
108True Love6b+ 22
109Bridget RileyE2 6a *4
110The Mind Terrorist7c+ **6
111Knockout Punch7b+ *8
112SpicerE2 5c *3
113Levitation By Proxy6c+ *38
114That Chill Divine E2 6a 1
115Finesse7a+ 6
116Hidden Treasure6a 82
117Kestrel VS 4c 1
118Looking for Love E2 5b 1
119Blowing the Gimp7a+ *35
120The Sears Tower7b+ *15
121The Holy Hand Grenade7a **149
122Brief Encounter6a+ **381
123Infernal Din7b+ **56
124European Flavour6b **264
125Europe Endless6b+ *54
126Gourmet6a 5
127The Breathing Method8a **18
128Hall of Mirrors7c ***112
129Want Out7b ***97
130New Saladin6c **230
131Hurricane on a Millpond7c+ **1
132Consommé6a+ **747
133Haute Cuisine7a **191
134The Mouth Waters7a+ **99
135Two Fingers6a *548
136Three Fingers5c *481
137Bob HunkhouseV7 *11
138Opus4a *559
139Rusty the Red Neck TakesOne for the Team6a+ *269
140Perihelion6b *174
141Disobedience Contest6b *129
142Live is Life6b *26
143The Potting Shed6a *166
144Rules is Rules6b+ *22
145Old Buffer6a+ *102
146Live by the Sword7a+ **172
147Another Notch in the Gun6b **369
148Figgy Dropwise6c+ *56
149Dusty Fred's Winter Collection6c 18
150Aperitif5c 58
151Ectomorph6a 84
152Unknown Arete7a+ 17
153The Bournemouth Flyer6b *119
154Hors d'Oeuvres E1 5c 1
155Nightmare Scenario7c *26
156Modern Nightmare7a **95
157Bad Dream E4 6a 1
158Fighting Torque8a **44
159Under Duress7c+ **25
160Shiver Me Timbers7a *66
161Weird Shit, Keep Drilling6b+ **102
 THE BOWER  
163Whispering Gallery3 180
164Queen of the New Year3 185
165Suntrap3 232
166The Bumper Fun Book4a 265
167Tinkerbell5c *231
168Far From The Madding Crowd5a 194
169Six Finger Exercise6c 134
170Godbeams4a 277
171Ladybower3 131
172All Bowered Out6a *8
 THE DELL - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (LEFT)  
174Sjambok the Skelem4c 24
175The Naughty Corner4a 36
176West of Vanity Fare6b 20
177Hot FlushE1 5c 7
178XerdnaVS 4c 14
179Hot Fuzz5c 19
180Don't Bring Your Mum2 17
181Rain Shadow 1V1 7
182Rain Shadow 2V0- 9
183Rain Shadow 3V0- 9
184Rain Shadow 4V1 8
185Rain Shadow 5V2 8
186Rain Shadow 6VB 8
187Rain Shadow 7V1 6
188Rain Shadow 8V0- 7
189Rain Shadow 9V0+ 6
 THE BOTTOM DECKIO - THE CUTTINGS LOWER TIER (RIGHT)  
191Voices in the Bower3 205
192Up the Junction6b *84
193Round the Bend6b 88
194Winter Sun6a 264
195Time Out of Mind5a 289
196Voices in the Mind5c 34
 THE BOULDERFIELD NORTH  
198Rocky and DieselV2 ***126
199Made in the ShadeV4 *35
200Slim ShadyVB 19
201Plain AwkwardV3 6
202Blue Skies - Standing StartV1 *111
203Blue Skies - Sit StartV3 *15
204Jo's Arete - Standing StartV0+ **149
205Jo's Arete - Sit StartV3 *22
206Nu Breed - Standing StartV1 *75
207Nu Breed - Sit StartV4 ***111
208SimplesV1 8
209Pleasant GreetingsV6 *15
210Old Codes, New ChaosV2 10
211Global Underground ( standing start)V2 7
212Global Underground - Sit startV5 *16
213PornoV4 *4
214FilthV4 1
215GlueV5 *6
216Marabou Stork NightmaresV4 1
217The Bedroom Secrets of the Master ChefsV1 1
218Acid HouseV7 **19
219You'll Have Had Your HoleV4 *1
220The TerminatorV6 **31
221Queen BeeV5 *1
222New boulderfield problem3V6 1
223Gunmetal LeftVB 13
224Gunmetal RightVB 13
225Grizzly StyleV5 *2
226Stress FractureV2 2
227Anvil AreteVB 32
228Hammer TimeV0 *101
229The AnvilV1 *82
230Breaking RocksV1 *73
231AfricaV4 *6
232The RiftV1 12
233The ProwV4 *34
234Liquid SunshineV7 ***16
235Liquid Sunshine - Sit StartV8 ***8
236Storm RunningV6 **6
237Rain Dodging Lower Left StartV7 **9
238Rain DodgingV3 *31
239A Bracing DampnessV4 *17
240FirefightV8 *3
241Pinky Power - Standing StartV2 14
 Climb nameGradex
242Pinky Power - Sit StartV6 *42
243Full PowerV7 *2
244Secret HandshakeV5 **21
245Hot RideV7 **13
246Gasoline and Apple PieV4 *6
247Up to Our Old TricksV1 14
248Off to ChamV3 4
249Tim's TraverseV2 *12
250Jump and MantelV1 *17
251Days of ColourV2 *20
252Halfway SlabVB 20
253Thrupenny BitsV0 *41
254Bristol CitiesV0 *40
255Halfway TraverseV0 17
256In-fillerV1 12
257PolyfillerV2 *14
258Filler-InV1 13
259BuffyV1 8
260SpikeV1 *7
261HarmageddonV4 2
262GenedefektV1 *18
263Green VelvetV5 2
264La La LandV2 14
265Minimum RageV3 *12
266Waiting for the Day to EndV4 5
267SoulessV3 2
268SoulfulV3 10
269Southern SoulV4 **39
270Non-stickV2 *13
271Uncle Ben'sV1 12
272Lonely VigilV0 96
273Tommy CliffhangerV3 36
274Toll Booth Arête - Standing StartV1 19
275Toll Booth Arete - Sit StartV4 **31
276The DominatorV3 30
277The Dominator - Standing StartV1 15
278Doogy Howser Gets LaidV3 *9
279Doogy Howser Gets VDV5 *6
280Lightning StrikeV7 ***49
281RelativityV6 ***68
282Over the LineVB 14
283Streamline - Standing StartV2 **21
284Streamline - Sit StartV3 **91
285Tunnel SlabVB 37
286Bling, BlingV4 53
287In Ya FaceV4 31
288Right In Ya FaceV6 **5
289Pornographic BeatsV4 **20
290Achilles HeelV3 32
291Achilles heel directV4 6
292The Scene, RevisitedV3 **33
293Hello Sailor!V2 27
294The FearV0 *42
295I Don't Lichen itV2 4
296Bird Shit SlabV0+ 7
297Bird Shit AreteV2 6
298DeclassifiedV7 **11
299DugV0 *21
300DigV2 21
301TTTV2 14
302Big WallV2 13
303Shark BaitV2 *10
304Neil ArmstrongV6 ***41
305Neil Armstrong + BlockV4 **8
306Lemon JellyV3 **39
307Lemon Jelly + BlockV2 *5
308Bag o' ShiteV3 6
309The Death of KingsV6 **16
310GrafenbergV5 *20
311First ImpressionsV2 *9
312Silent HillV4 *7
313Diamond SolitaireV1 7
314Hung Out to DryV1 *33
315SundanceV1 *30
316Super NovaVB *29
317Sun SpotV0 *33
318Wolf NumberVB *32
319Coronal Mass EjectionV5 **29
320Years Around the SunV7 ***8
321Lost DecadeV6 **24
322Lamb ShankV4 *15
323Rolling StonesV2 17
324V for VendettaV6 **17
325NorsefireV0 *6
326Norsefire Sit StartV2 *10
327Banana PancakesV3 *12
328Full EnglishV4 **11
329The Hand of GodV1 6
330The Hand of TimV1 6
331Left HookV4 *9
332Technical KnockoutV3 6
333Smoking JoeV6 *10
334Right HookV4 **10
335SouthpawV3 **8
336Sliding HopeV3 *1
337Hope SlideV6 **4
338Cheese GraterV6 **3
339Grate EscapeV4 *2
340NapalmV1 *14
341I'm a Swinger Baby, YeahV2 *11
342Tripomatic FairytalesV4 *6
343Downwards SpiralV4 *4
344Jabba The HutV0 *7
345Ouch!V3 16
346Southwest AreteV2 24
347Southeast AreteV2 17
348Jurassic SlabVB 26
349Attempted Suicide With lipV0+ 3
350Attempted suicide Without lipV2 4
351Corridors of PowerV1 6
352Eco TerroristsV3 *10
353Cat KillerV3 ***57
354Nine Lives LostV3 **17
355Tour de BlocV4 *7
356Neal's ProblemV1 52
357One in TenV2 44
358Deputy DonutV0 *73
359Sheriff Fat ManV1 65
360Homer SimpsonV1 45
361Warm-up EscapeV0 41
362Warm-up WallV0+ 36
363Warm-up Arete LeftVB 40
364Warm-up Arete RightVB 30
365Grave RobbingV1 7
366Don't Touch MeV4 *4
367Six Feet UnderV1 *8
368The Lip TraverseV2 **77
369Lip traverse - sit startV4 4
370Pop StartV2 *12
371The CrackV0 **142
372The AreteV3 *94
373Little SlabVB 6
374Trout PoutV3 37
375Petty ThiefV6 **43
376Petty Thief - Lip StartV2 **45
377Super Petty ThiefV7 2
378Split LipV7 24
379Split Lip - Lip StartV4 39
380Super Split LipV8 1
381Lip ServiceV7 *6
382Cavity SearchV7 ***27
383Lip Service - Lip StartV5 *1
384Super Lip ServiceV8 1
385Cavity Search - Lip StartV4 23
386Blood BathV5 **11
387IncisorV0+ 8
388CanineV0+ 6
389Ferdinand MagellanV1 *13
390Pocket TraverseV2 25
391TuftyV2 *96
392Crouching Start, Hidden AgendaV4 **76
393Vasco de GamaV5 **16
394Hard LabourV1 **120
395Captain CookV2 **94
396The World's Best Mono II!V4 **36
397Christopher ColumbusV6 **10
 THE BOULDERFIELD SOUTH  
399Terror AreteV1 *4
400Terror TraverseV3 **2
401Terror CrackV0+ 8
402Ménage a TroisV2 **30
403Bordo Della TerraV7 ***14
404The Cutting RoomV6 *11
405Anasazi LostV6 **8
406Seven FishV3 **5
407Espresso MartiniV6 * 
408Black AiragV1 *6
409Bones of the HillsV4 *3
410Wolf of the PlainsV4 *2
411The Cold FaceV2 4
412PocketsV2 **9
413Jam EaterV1 10
414The £100 Pork ScratchingV2 17
415Swoop and ScoopV2 *12
416The HowellerV3 *12
417DefiladeV1 *13
418Ladies NightV8 **7
419Staunch, BruV2 14
420E.T.V1 *23
421The Three Princes of SerendipV3 **15
422Serendipity PatternV3 **19
423Canada DriedV2 **27
424Le Voie, Le SoleilV2 **12
425Voodoo RayV1 14
426Odyssey to AnyoonaV2 6
427Witch DoktorV3 **9
428Vernon's WonderlandV1 7
429Round RobinV5 **9
430The FlyV5 **9
431Rock and RobinV4 *9
432Boris the CrowbarVB 19
433Snapping at Your ToesV2 11
434Juggy TraverseVB 17
435Parky's PitstopVB 20
436Another Ton of RockV0- 20
437Distant FoxV0- 21
438Noisy BastardsVB 15
439Sunshine TraverseV0- 16
440Shoulder AreteV0- 4
441Head AreteV0+ 1
442Head Arête DirectV0- 3
443Soggy BrainV1 2
444Goodbye Sweet HatV5 1
445Back of The HeadV0- 2
446Shoulder to Cry OnVB 3
447The Strengthy and Reachy ShowV0+ 2
448Vee Zero My ArseV0 3
449One Tree HoleV5 1
450Ant Hill EscapeV3 *1
451Ant Hill Escape Standing StartV2 2
452Tare A PinV3 1
453Swamp Bromance *V4 **1
 THE DITCH  
455Rock Logs6b+ 3
456Gold Dust7b 2
457Ditch the Bitch7a 4
458Pitch in the Ditch6a+ 3
459The Dump Pump6a 6
460This Shit's Something6c+ 1
461Future Imperfect *6a+ 1
462Jacob's Ladder The Cut *5a  
463Elephant on roller skates *4c 10
464Sun Trap *3 15
465Seams the Same *V1 2
466Skaterdater *4c 6
467Anvil arête direct *f6A 5c 1
468Ope in Hell *f7B+ **6
469The Black Parade *f8A+ *** 
470Can't recall it *6b * 
471The Groove *VB 1
472Warm Up Escape *V0  
473Warm Up Arête Left *V0-  
474Warm Up Wall *V0+  
475Warm Up Arête Right *V0  
476The Strengthy and Reachy Show (Sit Start) *V2 1
477Banner in the sky *V0 2
478The white tower *V2 2
479And not to yield *V3 2
480Phlogiston *V1 1
481Earth *V0+  
482Juggernaught *5b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great climbs, However do agree with other comments, grades are slightly lower than I feel they should be. Best climb of the year so far, (it is only the first of January 2014). Great day though, great fun.
TerryHoward - 01/Jan/14

Great crag and boulder field, drys out super quick so makes the perfect winter bouldering location! :-)
Beastly Squirrel - 01/Jan/13

The Ditch no longer exists.
Richard Horn - 15/Dec/08

Excellent crag. Lots and lots of reachy, technical test pieces. However, not really worth visiting if you can't climb F7a or harder. Fred
FredMead - 06/Mar/06

The guide is fantastic - congratulations! One point on the Cuttings though. Page 165, route 17 "Three Fingers" is surely not a grade 4. Two of us climbed it and thought it a polished 5+. The third finger has of course fallen off as your photo shows and I wonder if it has been regraded since then. In your 2003 miniguide you put it at 6A rather than 4 which may be mistake (or is it?) but its certainly not 4, - which might cause problems where people are trying to up their grade in an area where except at the short worn out left hand end, there are few lower grades to try out. Hope this is useful.
marcus - 22/Aug/05

Agree, Blacknor is much better for novices, some of these routes are so pollished as to be at least a grade harder. My girlfriend thinks 2 grades!
Russ - 21/Aug/04

I was taken down to the Cuttings for my first bit of sport climbing and was pointed to the \'easy\' grades up one end (2 to 4+). Unfortunately these routes are now highly polished and I\'m sure that most people are likely to find them a great deal more difficult than their grade may suggest.
John Wellbelove - 22/Jul/02