(Old Man of) Hoy

Climbs 10 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude Tidal – Faces ?

Crag features
The cliffs at Hoy sport some amazing 'Scottish VS' climbs, and the famous 'Old Man of Hoy' (E1) and 'A Few Dollars More' (E4). The famous East Face Route was immortalised by the BBC, featuring Joe Brown.

Most of the lines have had few repeats.

You can get a PDF of all the climbs, with details about the routes, from the UKClimbing articles area.

Access notes
Non-Tidal. Scramble (carefully) down steep grassy/rocky slope. Dodgy rock in places. Fulmars and puffins add spice to your dinner!

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - North (2009), Northern Highlands North (2004), Rock Climbing in Scotland (1990),
Out of print: Northern Highlands Vol. 2 (1993)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1East Face Route (Original Route)E1 5b ***
2A Fistful of DollarsE5 6a **
3South FaceE2 5b **
4The Orkneying SagaE6 6a *
5Ancient MarinerE2 5c
6GMBE5 6a ***
7A Few Dollars MoreE3 5c **
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Totally agree with comment re Tat, particularly the top anchor. There must be enough to fill 100 litre sack. About 10m of 11mm static would replace the lot very well. Mid anchors (2 options) slightly better quality. Lowest anchor has one very good 480mm sling with new krab & about 50 litres worth of tat excess. We didn't have a knife to even begin making an impression sorry. MCofS project to stop it just getting thrown into the sea?
Mike Lates - 02/Jul/14
Tat desperately needs cleaning off the original route. if ever I get back there I will do it but if you're heading there please do it. :-)
puppythedog - 25/Jul/12