Parsons Hole (aka Telegraph Hole)

Climbs 33 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 25m a.s.l – Faces SE

Crag features
Secluded sun-trap, dries quickly after rain. The main cliff is an amazing slab. Why not try Crinoid (E1 5b), Flash Dance (E3 5c) and Blinding Flash (E4 6a). Beware that some of the old pegs on the main wall are rusty!

Approach notes
Drive towards the centre of Torquay, heading for the harbour. Go around this, passing a clocktower-roundabout, drive up past the Imperial Hotel, and follow signs fofr Daddyhole Plain (on Daddyhole Road). These head to a car park with views across the bay towards Berry Head Quarry.

Follow the path from the RH end of the car park (looking seaward) under an arch. 30m on, a vague path leads L through some bushes toward the sea. Keep going down the path to a quarried wall; climb over this to a rocky rib, and follow to the quarry floor.

Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE SEA WALLS  
2SalineS 4a 38
3PralineVS 5a 38
4AquilineHVS 5a 28
5Telescopic ArmsE1 5b 3
 OVERHANGING BAY  
7MegatartsVS 4c 5
8StatagemVS 4c 6
9StratatartsHVS 4c  
 THE MAIN FACE  
11Mad HatterD 34
12Mock TurtleM 15
13Nardly Stoad's ClimbS 87
14White QueenS 63
15Slithy ToveHVD 39
16Bird ScarerE2 5c 55
17Let Your Fingers do the WalkingE4 6a *4
18Blinding FlashE4 6a **30
19FlashdanceE3 5c ***88
20CrinoidE1 5b ***167
21GoldfingerE2 5c 2
22Midas TouchHVS 5a 120
23Link-up with LeninE2 5c 4
24Total ControlE1 5b 4
25Liaison With LeninHVS 5a 85
26BuzbyE2 5c 4
27Discuss the Thoughts of Chairman MaoVS 4b 46
28JerichoVS 4a 2
29Swing LowS 3
30Mighty AtomE1 5b 4
31Mighty CheeseS 4
32Plimsole line continuationE1 s1 *7
33EventideM 5c 2
34The Toss-Off6b+ *1
35Naked Suprise *4c 1
36Five Fingered Widow *5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer misterb

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Some of the stumps getting soft and crumbly July 14. Usable, but getting worse.
jayjackson - 20/Jul/14
Tree stumps useable December 2013.
JaffaCakes - 04/Dec/13
Tree stump belays still useable as of December 2011.
Dave 88 - 07/Dec/11
Tree stumps still usable May 2011, but as Quadmyre says they will rot away eventually. Worth considering bringing a set up line to make it easier to rig belays from the trees further back.
jayjackson - 18/May/11
Just been down to Torquay wondering about in the rain and all the trees at the top of Telegraph hole have been cut down. That makes the rim descent a bit more serious in places as it's quite muddy and no trees to hold on to but more importantly the belays for the majority of the routes are now gone. The stumps will probably be fine girth-hitched for a while but will inevitably rot away and without the roots the top of the crag is likely to start to erode. Not good. I assume this is connected with the coastguard watchtower which I see has been done up and now has a watchman in (rather than being an abandoned shack for tramps).
Justin T - 16/Jan/10