Anstey's Cove

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.

The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:

Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket

HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron

E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke

The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Access notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 OPPOSITE EMPIRE  
2CharlieE3 5c *10
3Small ChangeE1 5c **12
4Big BillsE2 5c 1
5Little JohnHS 6
 EMPIRE WALL  
7Big JimE1 5b 10
8Tiny TimHVS 5a *25
9Timeless SkiesE2 5c 10
10White WindsE3 6a 6
11Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
12Crook BruceE4 6a *1
13Avant-gardeE5 6b *2
14Heathen Man7b *34
15Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish)7b *1
16Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
17Rye 'n' Shy7b+ * 
18Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **9
19Empire of the Sun7b ***253
20Empire Direct7b+ *34
21The Shire8a+ ***1
22Triple Crown8a ***8
23Leather whip Mick8a ***21
24LWM (Empire Finish)8a ***1
25Kingdom8a **3
26Not Just Empire7c ***26
27Just Revenge7c+ ***58
28Avenged7c+ ***37
29Avenged Direct8a **3
30Might and Main6c **199
31Machine Gun Funk7a+ **2
32DTR7b *1
33Helium7c **5
34Fusion Reactor7c ***2
 MITRE BUTTRESS  
36Mitre DirectE4 6a *6
37The MitreE3 6b ***25
38Imperial8a **1
39How the Mighty Fall7a+ **95
40Waffle Supremacy7b+ *8
41The Mightier7c+ **11
42The Mightiest7a+ 3
43The CopeS 7
 MITRE WALL BOULDERING  
45Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traversef6A+ 2
46Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traversef6A **16
47Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)f7A **1
48Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)f6B *15
49Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6b **2
50The Mightiest to Crook Bruce Traverse6b+ **2
51The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6c+ **1
52The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse II (There and Back)7a+ 1
53Left of Bagginsf7B **1
54Bagginsf7A+ **1
55Baggins IIf7A *1
56Pinch/Sloper Problemf7C **1
 END OF AN ERA COVE  
58Time Bandits6c+ 46
59Bandit's End6b 14
60End of an Era6a 149
61EpocVS 4b 4
62EraVS 4c *12
63EveHVS 5a *2
64Time PassagesHVS 5a 14
 UPPER FEROCITY  
66The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
67Peak 8b7a+ *1
68Cry Creamdom6c *5
69Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
 FEROCITY WALL  
71Nowt ta do with me7a 35
72Flo Rida7a **14
73Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***65
74Sole FusionE5 6a *13
75Cream ToppingE6 6a *7
76La Crème7c+ ***14
77La Creme Direct8a 4
78Postman Pat8a+ ***4
79Postman Pat (Original Start)8b *** 
80Patpence8a+ **4
81Patpence (Orignal Start)8a+ **1
82Patpence Extension8b ***1
83Patpence Extension (Original Start)8b *** 
84Patpence Ha'penny8b **4
85Patpence Ha'penny (Orignal Start)8b ***1
86Cyberdog8b ***4
87Tuppence8b ***6
88Tuppence Ha'penny8b *5
89Tuppence Extension8b+ **1
90Chimera8b+ ***1
91A Fisherman's Tale8b ***3
92Poppy8b+ ***6
93Brian8c *** 
94The Cider Soak8a ***68
95The Lynch7b+ ***60
96Pet Cemetery8a+ **8
97Rawhide7a 15
 SAINT GREGORY AREA  
99MarsHS 4a 1
100Sunshine6a *82
101Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerHS 4b *52
102St MongoHVS 5a 2
103Hell's TeethHVS 5a 4
 MOONSHOT WALL  
105WeebleE1 5a 4
106Nebulous CrabE3 6b 1
107Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a 1
108White DwarfE4 6b 1
109Shooting StarsE4 6a 6
110The Lumpy UniverseE3 5c **19
111PlutoE1 5c *4
112MoonshotE1 5b *16
113MelangeE1 5b 3
114Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 2
115Little WonderVD 3
 COCYTUS WALL  
117Cocytus Traversef6C+ ***1
118Blue Sky5c *43
119St JudeS 4a 4
120AornisS 8
121Dumb BlondeE3 6a 6
122American Express7a+ **84
123Torbay or Not Torbay7b *21
124CocytusE3 6a ***159
125Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **42
126More Steam, Bigger Women7b **56
127Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
128Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
129The ShroudE5 6b  
130Boy George7c **4
131Groove & SlabE1 5b 3
132AcheronHVS 5a *32
133LetheVS 4c 6
134Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
135Agent OrangeE3 6a 1
136Gut BucketS 2
137Walking on SunshineVS  
138Proper Charlie *E3 6a **1
139The Mitre Wall Traverse8a *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ellis Butler-Barker

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 23/Dec/2014

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Plymouth, DEVON
Dedicated centre.
"A huge variety of climbing. We have walls ranging from 8.0m to 16.0m on top rope and lead. The walls are a selection of plywood and featured resin with grading from 4 to 8a (French..."
high-sports.co.uk