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These details were last updated on 31/May/2012

Anstey's Cove

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8a+) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable!

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Crooked ManHS 4a  
2Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
3CharlieE3 5c *7
4Small ChangeE1 5c **8
5Big BillsE2 5c  
6Little JohnS 5
 EMPIRE WALL  
8Big JimE1 5b 8
9Tiny TimHVS 5a *23
10Timeless SkiesE2 5c 8
11White WindsE3 6a 2
12Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
13Crook BruceE4 6a *1
14Avant-gardeE5 6b *1
15Heathen Man7b *19
16Sun of Righteousness7b+ * 
17Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *1
18Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **5
19Empire of the Sun7b ***185
20Empire Direct7b+ *11
21Leather whip Mick8a ***6
22Not Just Empire7c ***18
23Just Revenge7c+ ***37
24Avenged7c+ ***26
25Might and Main6c **137
26Helium7c **3
 MITRE BUTTRESS  
28Mitre DirectE4 6a *3
29The MitreE3 6b ***20
30How the Mighty Fall7a+ **68
31Waffle Supremacy7b+ *5
32The Mightier7c+ **8
33The Mightiest7a+ 2
34The CopeS 7
 END OF AN ERA COVE  
36Time Bandits6c+ 41
37Bandit's End6b 10
38End of an Era6a 111
39EpocVS 4b 3
40EraVS 4c *6
41Time PassagesHVS 5a 11
 UPPER FEROCITY  
43The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
44Peak 8b7a+ *1
45Cry Creamdom6c *2
46Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
 FEROCITY WALL  
48Nowt ta do with me7a 22
49Flo Rida7a **8
50Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***43
51Sole FusionE5 6a *5
52Cream ToppingE6 6a *3
53La Creme Direct8a 4
54La Creme7c+ ***12
 Climb nameGradex
55Postman Pat8a+ ***3
56Postman Pat - Tuppence8a+ ** 
57Postman Pat - Tuppence Ha'penny8b ** 
58Cyberdog8a+ *2
59Tuppence8a+ ***4
60Tuppence Ha'penny8b *2
61A Fisherman's Tale8b ***2
62Poppy8b+ ***4
63Brian8c *** 
64The Cider Soak8a ***37
65The Lynch7b+ ***41
66Pet Cemetery8a+ **5
67Rawhide7a 12
 SAINT GREGORY AREA  
69MarsHS 4a 1
70Sunshine6a *50
71Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerS 43
72St MongoHVS 5a 1
73Hell's TeethHVS 5a 2
74Little WonderVD 1
 MOONSHOT WALL  
76WeebleE1 5a 1
77Nebulous CrabE3 6b  
78Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a  
79White DwarfE4 6b  
80Shooting StarsE4 6a  
81The Lumpy UniverseE2 5c **11
82MoonshotE1 5b *12
83MelangeE1 5b 3
84Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b  
 COCYTUS WALL  
86Blue Sky5+ *12
87St JudeS 4a 4
88AornisS 8
89Dumb BlondeE3 6a 3
90American Express7a+ **57
91Torbay or Not Torbay7b *15
92CocytusE2 6a ***101
93Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **30
94More Steam, Bigger Women7b **34
95Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
96Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
97The ShroudE5 6b  
98Boy George7c **3
99Groove & SlabE1 5b  
100AcheronHVS 5a *26
101LetheVS 4c 6
102Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
103Agent OrangeE3 6a  
104Gut BucketS 1
105Walking on SunshineVS  
 CRAG TRAVERSES  
107Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)V3 6a *13
108Might and Main to Crook Bruce TraverseV2 5c **13
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Access notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS ? - 28/Oct/09

Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08

Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08

That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05

with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05