Anstey's Cove Devon, ENGLAND
Climbs 107 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8a+) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable!
Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.
Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.
Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)
Climbs at this crag
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Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.|
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete.
However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05