Climbs 140
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces S

Fluffed the final move on The Cider Soak © quiffhanger

Crag features

A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.

The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:

Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket

HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron

E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke

The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Approach notes

The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Parking update 23rd april 2015 The car park is now owned by The Range and they will begin clamping cars staying over two hours next week.
phil456 - 23/Apr/15
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Opposite Empire 
2Proper CharlieE3 6a **4
3CharlieE3 5c *18
4One Way StreetE1 5b 1
5Small ChangeE2 5c **17
6Big BillsE2 5c 2
7Little JohnHS 12
 Empire Wall 
9Big Jim
-
E1 5b 10
10Tiny Tim
-
HVS 5a *34
11Timeless SkiesE2 5c 15
12White WindsE3 6a 6
13Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
14Crook BruceE4 6a *4
15Avant-garde
-
E5 6b *2
16Heathen Man7b **43
17Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish)7b *8
18Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
19Rise 'n' Shine (Uzi Start)
-
7c **1
20Uzi in My Pocket
-
7b+ **9
21Empire of the Sun7b+ ***297
22Empire Direct
-
7b+ *54
23The Shire8a+ ***1
24Triple Crown8a *10
25Leather whip Mick8a ***37
26LWM (Empire Finish)8a ***2
27Kingdom8a **4
28Not Just Empire7c ***34
29Just Revenge
-
7c+ ***72
30Avenged7c+ ***47
31Avenged Direct8a **6
32Might and Main6c+ **260
33Machine Gun Funk7a+ **6
34DTR7b *1
35Helium7c **5
36Fusion Reactor7c ***2
 Mitre Buttress 
38Mitre Direct
-
E4 6a *10
39The MitreE3 6b ***31
40Imperial8a **1
41How the Mighty Fall7a+ **112
42Waffle Supremacy
-
7b+ *8
43The Mightier
-
7c+ **13
44The Mightiest
-
7a+ 3
45The CopeS 8
 Mitre Wall Bouldering 
47Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traverse
-
f6A+ 3
48Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traversef6A **21
49Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)
-
f7A **3
50Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)
-
f6B *17
101A Fisherman's Tale8b ***6
102Poppy
-
8b+ ***13
103Brian8c+ ***1
104The Cider Soak8a ***156
105The Lynch7b+ ***79
106Pet Cemetery
-
8a+ **8
107Rawhide7a 18
 Saint Gregory Area 
109MarsHS 4a 1
110Sunshine6a *112
111Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerHS 4b *63
112St MongoHVS 5a 2
113Hell's TeethHVS 5a 4
 Moonshot Wall 
115WeebleE1 5a 4
116Nebulous CrabE3 6b 1
117Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a 1
118White DwarfE4 6b 1
119Shooting StarsE4 6a 8
120The Lumpy UniverseE3 5c **20
121PlutoE1 5c *6
122MoonshotE1 5b *22
123Melange
-
E1 5b 3
124Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 3
125Little WonderVD 3
 Cocytus Wall 
127Cocytus Traversef6C+ ***4
128Blue Sky5c *68
129St Jude
-
S 4a 5
130Aornis
-
S 8
131Dumb Blonde
-
E3 6a 6
132American Express7a+ **96
133Torbay or Not Torbay
-
7b *25
134CocytusE3 6a ***210
135Cocytus, More Steam Connection
-
7a **46
136More Steam, Bigger Women7b ***67
137Blonde BombshellE5 6b **5
138Blazing Apostles
-
7b+ *3
139The Shroud
-
E5 6b  
140Boy George8a **4
141Groove & SlabE1 5b 6
142AcheronHVS 5a *43
143LetheVS 4c 6
144Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
145Agent Orange
-
E3 6a 1
146Gut BucketS 2
147Walking on Sunshine
-
VS  
 Sport Routes in Original State 
149Empire of the Sun (Original)E6 6b ***2
150Just Revenge
-
E8 6b/c ***1

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