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These details were last updated on 31/May/2012

Anstey's Cove

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8a+) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable!

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Access notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

0.6mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
21 kph

0.7mm rain
Sun
18 °C
12 kph

0.3mm rain
Sun
19 °C
12 kph

1.5mm rain
Cloudy
15 °C
22 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
21 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
1Crooked ManHS 4a  
2Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
3CharlieE3 5c *10
4Small ChangeE1 5c **12
5Big BillsE2 5c 1
6Little JohnS 6
 EMPIRE WALL  
8Big JimE1 5b 9
9Tiny TimHVS 5a *24
10Timeless SkiesE2 5c 10
11White WindsE3 6a 6
12Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
13Crook BruceE4 6a *1
14Avant-gardeE5 6b *2
15Heathen Man7b *34
16Sun of Righteousness7b+ * 
17Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
18Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **9
19Empire of the Sun7b ***250
20Empire Direct7b+ *33
21Triple Crown8a ***5
22Kingdom8a **2
23Leather whip Mick8a ***17
24Not Just Empire7c ***26
25Just Revenge7c+ ***52
26Avenged7c+ ***36
27Avenged Direct7c+ **2
28Might and Main6c **194
29Machine Gun Funk7a+ **1
30Helium7c **5
31Fusion Reactor7c ***2
 MITRE BUTTRESS  
33Mitre DirectE4 6a *6
34The MitreE3 6b ***23
35How the Mighty Fall7a+ **89
36Waffle Supremacy7b+ *7
37The Mightier7c+ **9
38The Mightiest7a+ 2
39The CopeS 7
 END OF AN ERA COVE  
41Time Bandits6c+ 46
42Bandit's End6b 13
43End of an Era6a 148
44EpocVS 4b 3
45EraVS 4c *10
46Time PassagesHVS 5a 14
 UPPER FEROCITY  
48The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
49Peak 8b7a+ *1
50Cry Creamdom6c *5
51Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
 FEROCITY WALL  
53Nowt ta do with me7a 30
54Flo Rida7a **13
55Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***60
56Sole FusionE5 6a *11
57Cream ToppingE6 6a *7
58La Crème7c+ ***13
 Climb nameGradex
59La Creme Direct8a 4
60Postman Pat8a+ ***4
61Postman Pat - Tuppence8a+ **2
62Patpence Extension8b ***1
63Postman Pat - Tuppence Ha'penny8b **2
64Cyberdog8b ***4
65Tuppence8a+ ***6
66Tuppence Ha'penny8b *5
67Chimera8b+ ***1
68A Fisherman's Tale8b ***3
69Poppy8b+ ***6
70Brian8c+ *** 
71The Cider Soak8a ***65
72The Lynch7b+ ***59
73Pet Cemetery8a+ **8
74Rawhide7a 15
 SAINT GREGORY AREA  
76MarsHS 4a 1
77Sunshine6a *77
78Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerS 50
79St MongoHVS 5a 2
80Hell's TeethHVS 5a 3
 MOONSHOT WALL  
82WeebleE1 5a 4
83Nebulous CrabE3 6b  
84Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a  
85White DwarfE4 6b  
86Shooting StarsE4 6a 3
87The Lumpy UniverseE2 5c **14
88MoonshotE1 5b *13
89MelangeE1 5b 3
90Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 2
91Little WonderVD 3
 COCYTUS WALL  
93Blue Sky5c *39
94St JudeS 4a 4
95AornisS 8
96Dumb BlondeE3 6a 4
97American Express7a+ **79
98Torbay or Not Torbay7b *20
99CocytusE2 6a ***154
100Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **42
101More Steam, Bigger Women7b **51
102Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
103Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
104The ShroudE5 6b  
105Boy George7c **4
106Groove & SlabE1 5b  
107AcheronHVS 5a *29
108LetheVS 4c 6
109Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
110Agent OrangeE3 6a  
111Gut BucketS 1
112Walking on SunshineVS  
 CRAG TRAVERSES  
114Might and Main to Crook Bruce TraverseV2 5c **15
115Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)V3 6a *14
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09

Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08

Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08

That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05

with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05