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These details were last updated on 31/May/2012

Anstey's Cove

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 107 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8a+) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable!

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sun
11 °C
24 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
12 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
10 °C
19 kph

8.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
33 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Crooked ManHS 4a  
2Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
3CharlieE3 5c *9
4Small ChangeE1 5c **8
5Big BillsE2 5c  
6Little JohnS 6
 EMPIRE WALL  
8Big JimE1 5b 9
9Tiny TimHVS 5a *24
10Timeless SkiesE2 5c 10
11White WindsE3 6a 4
12Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
13Crook BruceE4 6a *1
14Avant-gardeE5 6b *1
15Heathen Man7b *27
16Sun of Righteousness7b+ * 
17Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *1
18Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **8
19Empire of the Sun7b ***223
20Empire Direct7b+ *23
21Triple Crown8a ***4
22Kingdom8a **2
23Leather whip Mick8a ***14
24Not Just Empire7c ***20
25Just Revenge7c+ ***45
26Avenged7c+ ***29
27Avenged Direct7c+ **2
28Might and Main6c **179
29Helium7c **5
 MITRE BUTTRESS  
31Mitre DirectE4 6a *5
32The MitreE3 6b ***21
33How the Mighty Fall7a+ **83
34Waffle Supremacy7b+ *6
35The Mightier7c+ **9
36The Mightiest7a+ 2
37The CopeS 7
 END OF AN ERA COVE  
39Time Bandits6c+ 42
40Bandit's End6b 11
41End of an Era6a 131
42EpocVS 4b 3
43EraVS 4c *10
44Time PassagesHVS 5a 14
 UPPER FEROCITY  
46The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
47Peak 8b7a+ *1
48Cry Creamdom6c *5
49Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
 FEROCITY WALL  
51Nowt ta do with me7a 25
52Flo Rida7a **12
53Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***50
54Sole FusionE5 6a *7
55Cream ToppingE6 6a *4
56La Creme Direct8a 4
 Climb nameGradex
57La Creme7c+ ***13
58Postman Pat8a+ ***4
59Postman Pat - Tuppence8a+ **1
60Postman Pat - Tuppence Ha'penny8b **1
61Cyberdog8a+ *3
62Tuppence8a+ ***6
63Tuppence Ha'penny8b *3
64A Fisherman's Tale8b ***2
65Poppy8b+ ***5
66Brian8c *** 
67The Cider Soak8a ***53
68The Lynch7b+ ***51
69Pet Cemetery8a+ **6
70Rawhide7a 14
 SAINT GREGORY AREA  
72MarsHS 4a 1
73Sunshine6a *66
74Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerS 50
75St MongoHVS 5a 2
76Hell's TeethHVS 5a 3
77Little WonderVD 1
 MOONSHOT WALL  
79WeebleE1 5a 1
80Nebulous CrabE3 6b  
81Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a  
82White DwarfE4 6b  
83Shooting StarsE4 6a  
84The Lumpy UniverseE2 5c **14
85MoonshotE1 5b *13
86MelangeE1 5b 3
87Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b  
 COCYTUS WALL  
89Blue Sky5+ *25
90St JudeS 4a 4
91AornisS 8
92Dumb BlondeE3 6a 4
93American Express7a+ **72
94Torbay or Not Torbay7b *19
95CocytusE2 6a ***133
96Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **35
97More Steam, Bigger Women7b **47
98Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
99Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
100The ShroudE5 6b  
101Boy George7c **3
102Groove & SlabE1 5b  
103AcheronHVS 5a *29
104LetheVS 4c 6
105Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
106Agent OrangeE3 6a  
107Gut BucketS 1
108Walking on SunshineVS  
 CRAG TRAVERSES  
110Might and Main to Crook Bruce TraverseV2 5c **14
111Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)V3 6a *15
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Access notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Justin T

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09

Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08

Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08

That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05

with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05