Altitude 20m a.s.l
Fluffed the final move on The Cider Soak © quiffhanger
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.
Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!
Anstey's trad December 2014
Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.
The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:
Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket
HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron
E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke
The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.
Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.
Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.