Anstey's Cove

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.

The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:

Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket

HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron

E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke

The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Access notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 OPPOSITE EMPIRE  
2Proper CharlieE3 6a **3
3CharlieE3 5c *13
4Small ChangeE1 5c **12
5Big BillsE2 5c 2
6Little JohnHS 6
 EMPIRE WALL  
8Big JimE1 5b 10
9Tiny TimHVS 5a *25
10Timeless SkiesE2 5c 10
11White WindsE3 6a 6
12Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
13Crook BruceE4 6a *1
14Avant-gardeE5 6b *2
15Heathen Man7b *34
16Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish)7b *4
17Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
18Rise 'n' Shine (Uzi Start)7c **1
19Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **9
20Empire of the Sun7b ***256
21Empire Direct7b+ *34
22The Shire8a+ ***1
23Triple Crown8a ***8
24Leather whip Mick8a ***21
25LWM (Empire Finish)8a ***1
26Kingdom8a **3
27Not Just Empire7c ***26
28Just Revenge7c+ ***59
29Avenged7c+ ***37
30Avenged Direct8a **3
31Might and Main6c **202
32Machine Gun Funk7a+ **2
33DTR7b *1
34Helium7c **5
35Fusion Reactor7c ***2
 MITRE BUTTRESS  
37Mitre DirectE4 6a *7
38The MitreE3 6b ***25
39Imperial8a **1
40How the Mighty Fall7a+ **98
41Waffle Supremacy7b+ *8
42The Mightier7c+ **11
43Problem 1/The Mightier8b * 
44The Mightiest7a+ 3
45The CopeS 7
 MITRE WALL BOULDERING  
47Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traversef6A+ 2
48Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traversef6A **16
49Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)f7A **1
50Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)f6B *15
51Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6b **2
52The Mightiest to Crook Bruce Traverse6b+ **2
53The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6c+ **1
54The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse II (There and Back)7a+ 1
55Left of Bagginsf7B **1
56Bagginsf7A+ **1
57Baggins Footlessf7C+ * 
58Baggins IIf7A *1
59Pinch/Sloper Problemf7C **1
60Pinch/Sloper Footlessf8A  
61Problem 1f8A 1
62The Mitre Wall Traverse8a *2
 END OF AN ERA COVE  
64Time Bandits6c+ 46
65Bandit's End6b 14
66End of an Era6a 149
67EpocVS 4b 5
68EraVS 4c *12
69EveHVS 5a *3
70Time PassagesHVS 5a 15
 UPPER FEROCITY  
72The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
73Peak 8b7a+ *1
74Cry Creamdom6c *5
75Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
 FEROCITY WALL  
77Nowt ta do with me7a 36
78Flo Rida7a **14
79Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***67
80Devonshire Cream - Flo RidaE6 6a *** 
81Sole FusionE5 6a *14
82Cream ToppingE6 6a *7
83La Crème7c+ ***14
84La Creme Direct8a 4
85Postman Pat8a+ ***4
86Postman Pat (Original Start)8b *** 
87Patpence8a+ **5
88Patpence (Orignal Start)8a+ **1
89Patpence Extension8b ***1
90Patpence Extension (Original Start)8b *** 
91Patpence Ha'penny8b **4
92Patpence Ha'penny (Orignal Start)8b ***1
93Cyberdog8b ***4
94Tuppence8b ***7
95Tuppence Ha'penny8b *5
96Tuppence Extension8b+ **1
97Chimera8b+ ***2
98Chimera Extension8c ***1
99Chimera Enduro8c *** 
100A Fisherman's Tale8b ***4
101Poppy8b+ ***5
102Brian8c *** 
103The Cider Soak8a ***69
104The Lynch7b+ ***66
105Pet Cemetery8a+ **8
106Rawhide7a 15
 SAINT GREGORY AREA  
108MarsHS 4a 1
109Sunshine6a *82
110Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerHS 4b *53
111St MongoHVS 5a 2
112Hell's TeethHVS 5a 4
 MOONSHOT WALL  
114WeebleE1 5a 4
115Nebulous CrabE3 6b 1
116Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a 1
117White DwarfE4 6b 1
118Shooting StarsE4 6a 7
119The Lumpy UniverseE3 5c **19
120PlutoE1 5c *4
121MoonshotE1 5b *16
122MelangeE1 5b 3
123Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 3
124Little WonderVD 3
 COCYTUS WALL  
126Cocytus Traversef6C+ ***1
127Blue Sky5c *45
128St JudeS 4a 4
129AornisS 8
130Dumb BlondeE3 6a 6
131American Express7a+ **87
132Torbay or Not Torbay7b *22
133CocytusE3 6a ***164
134Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **43
135More Steam, Bigger Women7b **59
136Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
137Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
138The ShroudE5 6b  
139Boy George7c **4
140Groove & SlabE1 5b 3
141AcheronHVS 5a *33
142LetheVS 4c 6
143Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
144Agent OrangeE3 6a 1
145Gut BucketS 2
146Walking on SunshineVS  
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ellis Butler-Barker

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05