Anstey's Cove

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 20m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
A quite amazing venue with plentiful routes at all grades, both trad and sport, with single-pitch routes up to 90ft, multi-pitch to 180ft. If you can manage it, Tuppence (8b) is an amazing trip. The rock is generally sound on the bolted sections - some of the trad routes can be loose in places - helmets definitely advisable! Full of hard routes which are brilliant; Postman Pat, Poppy, Chimera are just a few to name.

Be aware that when climbers are on P2 of Sunshine which traverses above Upper Ferocity (or on the Upper Ferocity routes) any rocks dislodged tend to whistle down near the lower path to Ferocity - take care!

Anstey's trad December 2014

Anstey's trad climbs have been looking neglected for some time. Many have recently been restored to a climbable state and are often much better than they look. So now may be a good time to check out the SW's sunniest trad venue.

The following routes have been gardened to some degree, the gear checked/upgraded and given the ok for onsight attempts:

Sev to VS; Little John, The Cope, Epoc, Era, Time Passages, Little Wonder, Gut Bucket

HVS to E1; Small Change, Tiny Tim, Weeble, Pluto, Moonshot, Melange,Groove and Slab, Acheron

E2 to E5; Charlie, Big Bills, Timeless Skies, White Winds, Nebulous Crab, Starless and Bible Black, White Dwarf, Shooting Stars, Lumpy Universe, Sod the Cosmos Sniff the Coke

The logbook descriptions have been updated accordingly.

Approach notes
The DIY car park per guidebook is now OK to use once more - parking signage and cameras have been removed. Follow your nose to the stinking dog-walkers bin next to the "No Frills" DIY supermarket which marks the path up to the downs. Walk bearing slightly RW across Walls Hill Downs to a retaining fence near where the "No access" signs are. Although these are in place and the fence has recently been repaired access appears to be tolerated.

Cross the fence by the "danger of rockfall" signs and follow the concrete steps which are followed to a path that runs alongside the steep flank of Empire wall (on your left) to the bottom of Mitre buttress. Walk under this to access Ferocity and from there toward the sea to Moonshot / Cocytus areas.

Please be aware that there are some extremely rare limestone-loving trees trying to grow amongst the undergrowth which are tagged and registered.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995),
Out of print: Dorset 2005 - Fax19 (2005)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Proper CharlieE3 6a **3
3CharlieE3 5c *14
4Small ChangeE1 5c **14
5Big BillsE2 5c 2
6Little JohnHS 8
8Big JimE1 5b 10
9Tiny TimHVS 5a *29
10Timeless SkiesE2 5c 14
11White WindsE3 6a 6
12Sirens of TitanE4 6a  
13Crook BruceE4 6a *4
14Avant-gardeE5 6b *2
15Heathen Man7b **40
16Heathen Man (Left Hand Finish)7b *6
17Rise 'n' Shine7b+ *2
18Rise 'n' Shine (Uzi Start)7c **1
19Uzi in My Pocket7b+ **9
20Empire of the Sun7b+ ***287
21Empire Direct7b+ *52
22The Shire8a+ ***1
23Triple Crown8a *10
24Leather whip Mick8a ***28
25LWM (Empire Finish)8a ***1
26Kingdom8a **4
27Not Just Empire7c ***35
28Just Revenge7c+ ***71
29Avenged7c+ ***45
30Avenged Direct8a **6
31Might and Main6c+ **227
32Machine Gun Funk7a+ **5
33DTR7b *1
34Helium7c **5
35Fusion Reactor7c ***2
37Mitre DirectE4 6a *9
38The MitreE3 6b ***28
39Imperial8a **1
40How the Mighty Fall7a+ **104
41Waffle Supremacy7b+ *8
42The Mightier7c+ **12
43The Mightiest7a+ 3
44The CopeS 8
46Crook Bruce to Might and Main Traversef6A+ 3
47Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traversef6A **21
48Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (low version)f7A **3
49Might and Main to The Mightiest Traverse (high version)f6B *17
50Might and Main to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6b **2
51The Mightiest to Crook Bruce Traverse6b+ **2
52The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse (There and Back)6c+ **1
53The Mighiest to Crook Bruce Traverse II (There and Back)7a+ 1
54Left of Bagginsf7B **1
55Bagginsf7A+ **2
56Baggins Footlessf7C+ *1
57Baggins IIf7A *2
58Pinch/Sloper Problemf7C **1
59Pinch/Sloper Footlessf8A  
60Problem 1f8A 1
61The Mitre Wall Traverse8a *2
63Time Bandits6c+ 48
64Bandit's End6b 14
65End of an Era6a 160
66EpocVS 4b 7
67EraVS 4c *14
68EveHVS 5a *3
69Time PassagesHVS 5a 19
71The Creaming Dream7a+ * 
72Peak 8b7a+ *1
73Cry Creamdom6c *5
74Tasty SnappersE2 5c  
76Nowt ta do with me7a 36
77Flo Rida7a **15
78Devonshire CreamE5 6a ***73
79Devonshire Cream - Flo RidaE6 6a ***2
80Sole FusionE5 6a *15
81Cream ToppingE6 6a *7
82La Crème7c+ ***15
83La Creme Direct8a 5
84Postman Pat8b ***5
85Postman Pat (Original Start)8b ***1
86Patpence8a+ **6
87Patpence (Orignal Start)8a+ **1
88Patpence Extension8b ***1
89Patpence Extension (Original Start)8b ***1
90Patpence Ha'penny8b **5
91Patpence Ha'penny (Orignal Start)8b ***1
92Cyberdog8b ***5
93Tuppence8b ***9
94Tuppence Ha'penny8b+ *5
95Tuppence Extension8b+ **1
96Chimera8b+ ***2
97Chimera Extension8c ***1
98Chimera Enduro8c *** 
99A Fisherman's Tale8b ***5
100Poppy8b+ ***6
101Brian8c+ ***1
102The Cider Soak8a ***71
103The Lynch7b+ ***76
104Pet Cemetery8a+ **8
105Rawhide7a 16
107MarsHS 4a 1
108Sunshine6a *100
109Saint Gregory The Wonder WorkerHS 4b *56
110St MongoHVS 5a 2
111Hell's TeethHVS 5a 4
113WeebleE1 5a 4
114Nebulous CrabE3 6b 1
115Starless & Bible BlackE4 6a 1
116White DwarfE4 6b 1
117Shooting StarsE4 6a 7
118The Lumpy UniverseE3 5c **19
119PlutoE1 5c *4
120MoonshotE1 5b *20
121MelangeE1 5b 3
122Sod the Cosmos, Sniff the CokeE2 5b 3
123Little WonderVD 3
125Cocytus Traversef6C+ ***3
126Blue Sky5c *57
127St JudeS 4a 5
128AornisS 8
129Dumb BlondeE3 6a 6
130American Express7a+ **93
131Torbay or Not Torbay7b *23
132CocytusE3 6a ***184
133Cocytus, More Steam Connection7a **45
134More Steam, Bigger Women7b ***69
135Blonde BombshellE5 6b **4
136Blazing Apostles7b+ *3
137The ShroudE5 6b  
138Boy George7c+ **4
139Groove & SlabE1 5b 5
140AcheronHVS 5a *36
141LetheVS 4c 6
142Deadly AssassinE3 6a  
143Agent OrangeE3 6a 1
144Gut BucketS 2
145Walking on SunshineVS  
147Empire of the Sun (Original)E6 6b ***2
148Leather Whip MickE8 6c *** 
149The LynchE6 6b ** 
150Just RevengeE7 6b/c ***1
151American Express Wall Traversef6A+ *1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Parking update 23rd april 2015 The car park is now owned by The Range and they will begin clamping cars staying over two hours next week.
phil456 - 23/Apr/15
Last time we went, the cameras on the garden centre car park were gone. We have parked there several times recently without problems.
JohnS - 28/Oct/09
Alternative parking accross the main road on a side street (turn right out of the carpark and then the next left) . only adds a minute to the approach. Mark Glaister 19/7/2008
Mark Glaister - 19/Jul/08
Note that the car parking seems to be 2 hours only since the DIY centre changed hands. Alternative parking nearby is scarce
midgets of the world unite - 01/Jul/08
That fence has been there for years. Midgets... is right, the rockfall is old, the cafe now gone and climber's access is still via the fence above the Empire wall. No change there. Just be discrete. However, popped down July 25th, parked at the hotel and walked in from Anstey's Cove proper across Redgate Beach. Just as enjoyable a walk and perhaps better than the permanent dog-shit in the alley next to the (now)cheap DIY and garden shop.
Ben Thorne - 17/Aug/05
with respect to access comments above - redgate beach was closed following the rockfall which affected the cafe. The climbing is unaffected and most climbers cross the fence by the closure signs and descend a short, steep slope to the path. To my knowledge, there has been no problems encountered by anyone at this crag.
midgets of the world unite - 13/Jul/05