Long Quarry Point

Climbs 83 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
A very worthwhile venue with a wide variety of climbs and climbing styles. Its primary attraction is now likely to be it's deep water soloing - well developed with plenty of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (Fr4+ - 8a). In summer, the quarry rim gets sunshine for much of the day, although the solos are often in the shade.

The back walls to the quarry offer excellent slab climbing and a few rather tougher sport climbs in single and multi-pitch routes up to 90m. Most of the routes comprise relatively adventurous trad. climbs, many of which are reliant in key locations on in-situ pegs. Some vegetation and the ubiquitous 'LQP exfoliating flake' may also be encountered on the less frequented routes. Refer to notes on particular climbs for latest info. on condition. The back walls can be very bleak in winter if the wind is from the east, but are feasible as a winter climbing venue if mild weather coincides with dry conditions.

Easily combined with a trip to Anstey's Cove.

Access notes
From Torquay follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). After passing through the town, head on towards Torquay and look out for a retail car park on the left. Historically it has often been possible to park in this car park, but the status changes regularly and is changing again (Autumn 2014). On-street parking is available in the general area as an alternative. Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the pinkish shelter by the perimeter fence; pass the fence at its left hand end and, for the large majority of the climbs, follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor (The Odyssey area can be approached by abseil from fenceposts set back). Brambles are prevalent at the foot of the back wall crags (Shadow Beast Wall in particular) and can hamper access to the start of some climbs; a bit of pruning by visiting climbers is welcome.

There has been a Spring period climbing restriction for breeding birds on the Grey Tower, Shadow Beast Wall and Odyssey area in recent years. Check the BMC RAD.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The Long Traverse (DWS)VD ***170
 QUARRY PINNACLE  
3AreteD 6
4LamiaE2 5c 1
5Supernatural AnaesthetistE4 6a *1
6SlippermanE2 6a 1
7Seaward EdgeVS 4c *2
8South SeasE1 5b 2
9AfterglowE1 5a 1
10Storm ChildS 4b 9
11Ship's BiscuitE2 5b 1
12Sea SlipS 4a 9
 BOULDER CHOKE ZAWN  
14Crepes SuzettesHVS 4c *3
15FlambeVS 4c 2
16Red Centre6b * 
17Et Tu Brutus7a ** 
18Have a Good Flight7a+ * 
19Once a Swinger7b **9
20Once a Dogger7b+ S1 **8
21Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS)7a+ S0 ***69
 CRYSTAL ZAWN  
23The book of laughter6c S1 4
24Honour Bright (DWS)6a+ S1 **48
25Honour Bright Arete6c S1 **15
26Crystal Pockets (DWS)5c S2 **49
27Midget Gem6a+ S3 9
 OUTER PINNACLE  
29Blowhole route4c **6
30Jumping Jack FlashVS 4c 2
31High & DryE1 5b 1
 SCORPIO PINNACLE  
33ScorpioVS 4c 2
34Producer (DWS)5a *11
35RapidoXS 6b * 
36Retro ScareXS 6b  
 BLOW-HOLE PINNACLE  
38Christine8a **2
39Blue Planet7b+ **11
40No Time Like NowHVS 4c 2
41Waiting for Charlie7c * 
42Losing My Religion7b+ *** 
43Waterline6c+ 1
44John & Tom's Excellent Adventure6a+ *4
 THE RIDGE  
46The RidgeVD 7
47Grey TowerHS 4b 4
 ICHOR SLAB  
49IkonE3 5c *1
50IchorE2 5c *5
51Complete the AsteriskE4 6a  
52The Big YE2 5c *3
53Y NotE2 5c  
 THE GREY TOWER  
55Cross RouteS 4a  
56SuicideHVS 5a  
57The MagusHVS **5
58SteppenwolfHVS 5a * 
59Steppenwolf (variation)E2 5b  
60GilgameshHVS 4c 1
61Gilded TurdHVS 4c 2
62Girdle TurdVS 4c  
 THE SHADOW BEAST WALL  
64OsramHVS 5a 10
65UlyssesE3 6a 5b 5
66Odysseus or BustE4 6a *1
67Up the Styx, Without a Paddle7b **14
68Shadowstyx7c **7
69Shadow Beast7c+ ***3
70Mustard Custard7c ***4
71Hart of DarknessE5 6b * 
 THE ODYSSEY AREA  
73The OdysseyHVS 5a  
74Song of the SirensVS 5a  
75ThesaurusE4 6c  
76The Minor TourE4 6a  
77The Poseiden AdventureE1 5a/b * 
78CalypsoE3 5c  
79Basking SharkE5 6c ** 
 MAIN SLABS AREA  
81Normal HeroE3 5c 1
82FaithE3 6a 1
83Carbon PaperE4 6a * 
84Ruby in the DustVS 4c *35
85RenegadeE4 6a ***12
86FibroidsE4 6a  
87Black IceE3 5c ***62
88Grip Type ThynneE1 5b *15
89Captain ButtwashE3 6a  
90Band of Rusty GoldHVS 5a  
91Coup de GraceVS 5a *14
92Magic Carpet RideVS 4c 5
93TransferenceE1 5b  
94SafariHVS 5a *10
95JaywalkVS 4b  
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These details were last updated on 15/Jan/2015
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