Climbs 87
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces E

John in Gordon Jenkin lookalike mode. © tomrainbow

Crag features

A very worthwhile venue with a wide variety of climbs and climbing styles.
Its main attraction may now be it's deep water soloing - well developed with plenty of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (Fr4+ - 8a). In summer, the quarry rim gets sunshine for much of the day, although the solos are often in the shade.  The DWS is easily combined with a sport climbing trip to Ansteys Cove; check the tide times to optimise the visit. 
The back walls to the quarry offer some excellent slab climbs and a few rather tougher sport climbs in single and multi-pitch routes up to 90m.  The majority of the routes comprise relatively adventurous trad. climbs, many of which are reliant in key locations on in-situ pegs. Some vegetation and the ubiquitous 'LQP exfoliating flake' are likely to be encountered on the less frequented routes.  Hence the trad. routes are probably more suitable for those with plenty of experience.  Refer to notes on particular climbs for latest info. on condition. The leader should carry a nut key for broddling.  The back walls can be very bleak in winter if the wind is from the east, but are quite feasible as a winter climbing venue if mild weather coincides with dry conditions.

Approach notes

From the outskirts of Torquay, follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). After passing through the town, head on towards Torquay and look out for a retail car park (currently The Range) on the left. Historically it has often been possible to park in this retail car park, but the status changes regularly; check for any notices. On-street parking is available in the general area as an alternative.
Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the pale coloured shelter by the perimeter fence; pass the fence at its left hand end and, for the large majority of the climbs, follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor (the exception is The Odyssey area, which can be approached by abseil from fenceposts set back). Brambles are prevalent at the foot of the back wall crags (Shadow Beast Wall in particular) and can hamper access to the start of some climbs; a bit of pruning by visiting climbers is encouraged (ie. take your secateurs...)
There has been a Spring period climbing restriction for breeding birds on the Grey Tower, Shadow Beast Wall and Odyssey area in recent years. Check the BMC RAD.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
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Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1The Long Traverse (DWS)4c **182
 Quarry Pinnacle 
3AreteD 6
E2 5c 2
5Supernatural Anaesthetist
E4 6a *1
E2 6a 1
7Seaward EdgeVS 4c *3
8South SeasE1 5b 2
E1 5a 1
10Storm Child
S 4b 9
11Ship's Biscuit
E2 5b 1
12Sea Slip
S 4a 9
13Crepes Suzettes
HVS 4c *4
VS 4c 2
 Boulder Choke Zawn 
16Slanting ChimneyHVS 4c 2
17Red Centre
6b *2
18Once a Swinger7b **10
19Cave RouteS  
20Corner ClimbVS 4c 2
21Et Tu Brutus
7a ** 
22Have a Good Flight
7a+ * 
23Once a Dogger7b+ S1 **20
24Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS)7a+ S0 ***83
 Crystal Zawn 
26The book of laughter6c S1 4
27Honour Bright (DWS)6a+ S1 **54
28Honour Bright Arete6c S1 **18
29Crystal Pockets (DWS)5c S2 **55
30Midget Gem6a+ S3 10
 Outer Pinnacle 
32Blowhole route4c **6
33Jumping Jack Flash
VS 4c 2
34High & DryE1 5b 1
 Scorpio Pinnacle 
36ScorpioVS 4c 3
37Producer (DWS)5a *12
38RapidoXS 6b * 
39Retro ScareXS 6b  
 Blow-hole Pinnacle 
41Blue Planet
7b+ **12
42Christine8a **2
43No Time Like NowHVS 4c 2
44Waiting for Charlie
7c * 
45Losing My Religion
7b+ *** 
6c+ 1
47John & Tom's Excellent Adventure6a+ *4
 The Ridge 
49The Ridge
VD 8
50Grey Tower
HS 4b 5
 Ichor Slab 
52IkonE3 5c *1
53IchorE2 5c *5
54Complete the AsteriskE4 6a  
55The Big YE2 5c *3
56Y NotE2 5c  
 The Grey Tower 
58Cross Route
S 4a  
HVS 5a  
60The Magus
HVS **5
HVS 5a * 
62Steppenwolf (variation)
E2 5b  
HVS 4c 1
64Gilded Turd
HVS 4c 3
65Girdle Turd
VS 4c  
 The Shadow Beast Wall 
67OsramHVS 5a 10
68Ulysses P1E3 6a 5
69Odysseus or BustE4 6a *1
70Up the Styx, Without a Paddle7b **19
71Shadowstyx7c **7
72Shadow Beast7c+ ***3
73Mustard Custard7c ***5
74Hart of Darkness
E5 6b * 
 The Odyssey Area 
76The OdysseyHVS 5a  
77Ulysses P2E1 5a  
78Song of the SirensVS 5a  
79ThesaurusE4 6c  
80The Minor TourE4 6a  
81The Poseiden AdventureE1 5a * 
82CalypsoE3 5c  
83Basking SharkE5 6c ** 
 Main Slabs Area 
85Normal HeroE3 5c 2
86FaithE3 6a 1
87Carbon PaperE4 6a * 
88Ruby in the Dust
VS 4c *37
89RenegadeE4 6a ***14
E4 6a  
91Black IceE3 5c ***74
92Grip Type ThynneE1 5b *16
93Captain Buttwash
E3 6a  
94Band of Rusty Gold
HVS 5a  
95Coup de GraceVS 5a *14
96Magic Carpet RideVS 4c 5
E1 5b  
98SafariHVS 5a **12
99JaywalkVS 4b  

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