Long Quarry Point

Climbs 82 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Can be bleak in winter if it's windy. Plenty of interesting routes, its main attraction nowadays will probably be it's Deep Water Soloing - well doveleped with lots of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (4+ - 8a) with classics such as The Long Traverse 4+, Arapiles 7a+, and Ken Palmer's Christine 8a. Aside from DWS the walls behind offer excellent slab climbing and rather tougher sport climbs, in single- and multi-pitch routes up to 310ft. And for later (or earlier for the faff-inclined) there are plenty of tearooms nearby.

Left-hand walls and right-hand slabs of quarried limestone. Messy fishermen leave rubbish on the headland. Some vegetation. Two and three star routes inc Black Ice (E3), Renegade (E4), Shadow Beast (E6) and Safari (HVS).

Easily combined with a trip to Anstey's Cove.

No Bird restrictions in the Quarry 2012

Access notes
From Torquay follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). These lead to a DIY superstore, offering free parking (once again - the previously installed cameras and parking restrictions are now gone).

Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the white shelter by the retaining fence; squeeze through this and the hawthorn bushes, and follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor.

No Bird restrictions in the Quarry 2012

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 BLOW-HOLE PINNACLE  
2Waterline6c+ 1
3Losing My Religion7b+ *** 
4Waiting for Charlie7c * 
5No Time Like NowHVS 4c 2
6Blue Planet7b+ **11
7Christine8a **2
8John & Tom's Excellent Adventure6a+ *4
 SCORPIO PINNACLE  
10Retro ScareXS 6b  
11RapidoXS 6b * 
12Producer (DWS)5a *11
13ScorpioVS 4c 2
 OUTER PINNACLE  
15Blowhole route4c **6
16Jumping Jack FlashVS 4c 2
17High & DryE1 5b 1
 CRYSTAL ZAWN  
19Midget GemE2 5c 9
20Crystal Pockets (DWS)5c **49
21Honour Bright Arete6c 15
22Honour Bright (DWS)6a+ **48
23The book of laughter6c 4
 BOULDER CHOKE ZAWN  
25The Long Traverse (DWS)4c **166
26Once a Swinger7b **9
27Once a Dogger7b+ ***8
28Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS)7a+ ***69
29Have a Good Flight7a+ * 
30Et Tu Brutus7a ** 
31Red Centre6b * 
 QUARRY PINNACLE  
33AreteD 5
34FlambeVS 4c 1
35Crepes SuzettesHVS 4c *2
36Sea SlipS 4a 8
37Ship's BiscuitE2 5b  
38Storm ChildS 4b 8
39AfterglowE1 5a  
40South SeasE1 5b 2
41SlippermanE2 6a 1
42Supernatural AnaesthetistE4 6a *1
43LamiaE2 5c 1
 THE RIDGE  
45The RidgeVD 7
46Grey TowerHS 4b 2
 ICHOR SLAB  
48IkonE3 5c *1
49IchorE2 5c *5
50The Big YE2 5c *3
51Y NotE2 5c  
52Complete the AsteriskE4 6a  
 THE GREY TOWER  
54Cross RouteS 4a  
55SuicideHVS 5a  
56The MagusHVS **5
57SteppenwolfHVS 5a * 
58Steppenwolf (variation)E2 5b  
59GilgameshHVS 4c 1
60Gilded TurdHVS 4c 2
61Girdle TurdVS 4c  
 THE SHADOW BEAST WALL  
63OsramHVS 5a 10
64The OdysseyHVS 5a  
65UlyssesE3 6a 5b 5
66Odysseus or BustE4 6a *1
67Up the Styx, Without a Paddle7b **14
68Shadowstyx7c **7
69Shadow BeastE6 6c ***3
70Mustard Custard7c ***4
71ThesaurusE4 6c  
72Hart of DarknessE5 6b * 
73The Minor TourE4 6a  
74Basking SharkE5 6c ** 
75Normal HeroE3 5c 1
76Carbon PaperE4 6a * 
77Ruby in the DustVS 4c *35
78RenegadeE4 6b ***12
79FibroidsE4 6a  
80Black IceE3 5c ***62
81Grip Type ThynneE1 5b *15
82Captain ButtwashE3 6a  
83Band of Rusty GoldHVS 5a  
84Coup de GraceVS 5a *14
85Magic Carpet RideVS 4c 5
86TransferenceE1 5b  
87SafariHVS 5a *10
88JaywalkVS 4b  
89The Poseiden AdventureE1 5a/b  
90Song of the SirensVS 5a  
91Seaward EdgeVS 4c *1
92Faith *E3 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Justin T

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
This is a duplicate crag - should be deleted and logbook ticks moved to Long Quarry Point which includes all the DWS areas there of which Crystal Zawn is but one buttress.
Justin T - 23/Mar/13
Thank you for avoiding the Grey Tower, much appreciated. If anyone is climbing this April - August please ask them to stop as they will be disturbing a Schedule 1 bird. Thank you
sebloram - 03/May/11
Perigrines currently nesting on the Grey Tower. RSPB voulenteers will politly shoo you away.
Zoomer - 01/May/11
DO NOT PARK AT OTTER NURSERIES -- a 75 fine will be charged. Park in the housing estate opposite.
Kafoozalem - 21/Nov/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 24/Apr/2012
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