Long Quarry Point

Climbs 86 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features

A very worthwhile venue with a wide variety of climbs and climbing styles.

Its main attraction may now be it's deep water soloing - well developed with plenty of short, safe routes at a good mixture of grades (Fr4+ - 8a). In summer, the quarry rim gets sunshine for much of the day, although the solos are often in the shade.  The DWS is easily combined with a sport climbing trip to Ansteys Cove; check the tide times to optimise the visit. 

The back walls to the quarry offer some excellent slab climbs and a few rather tougher sport climbs in single and multi-pitch routes up to 90m.  The majority of the routes comprise relatively adventurous trad. climbs, many of which are reliant in key locations on in-situ pegs. Some vegetation and the ubiquitous 'LQP exfoliating flake' are likely to be encountered on the less frequented routes.  Hence the trad. routes are probably more suitable for those with plenty of experience.  Refer to notes on particular climbs for latest info. on condition. The leader should carry a nut key for broddling.  The back walls can be very bleak in winter if the wind is from the east, but are quite feasible as a winter climbing venue if mild weather coincides with dry conditions.

Approach notes

From the outskirts of Torquay, follow road signs for Babbacombe (B3199). After passing through the town, head on towards Torquay and look out for a retail car park (currently The Range) on the left. Historically it has often been possible to park in this retail car park, but the status changes regularly; check for any notices. On-street parking is available in the general area as an alternative.
Take the footpath up onto Walls Hill Downs. Head for the pale coloured shelter by the perimeter fence; pass the fence at its left hand end and, for the large majority of the climbs, follow the steep descent path to the quarry floor (the exception is The Odyssey area, which can be approached by abseil from fenceposts set back). Brambles are prevalent at the foot of the back wall crags (Shadow Beast Wall in particular) and can hamper access to the start of some climbs; a bit of pruning by visiting climbers is encouraged (ie. take your secateurs...)
There has been a Spring period climbing restriction for breeding birds on the Grey Tower, Shadow Beast Wall and Odyssey area in recent years. Check the BMC RAD.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), Deep Water (2007), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1The Long Traverse (DWS)4c **178
3AreteD 6
4LamiaE2 5c 2
5Supernatural AnaesthetistE4 6a *1
6SlippermanE2 6a 1
7Seaward EdgeVS 4c *3
8South SeasE1 5b 2
9AfterglowE1 5a 1
10Storm ChildS 4b 9
11Ship's BiscuitE2 5b 1
12Sea SlipS 4a 9
14Crepes SuzettesHVS 4c *4
15FlambeVS 4c 2
16Red Centre6b *2
17Et Tu Brutus7a ** 
18Have a Good Flight7a+ * 
19Once a Swinger7b **10
20Once a Dogger7b+ S1 **21
21Arapiles, Oh Arapiles (DWS)7a+ S0 ***83
23The book of laughter6c S1 4
24Honour Bright (DWS)6a+ S1 **54
25Honour Bright Arete6c S1 **18
26Crystal Pockets (DWS)5c S2 **55
27Midget Gem6a+ S3 10
29Blowhole route4c **6
30Jumping Jack FlashVS 4c 2
31High & DryE1 5b 1
33ScorpioVS 4c 3
34Producer (DWS)5a *12
35RapidoXS 6b * 
36Retro ScareXS 6b  
38Christine8a **2
39Blue Planet7b+ **12
40No Time Like NowHVS 4c 2
41Waiting for Charlie7c * 
42Losing My Religion7b+ *** 
43Waterline6c+ 1
44John & Tom's Excellent Adventure6a+ *4
46The RidgeVD 7
47Grey TowerHS 4b 4
49IkonE3 5c *1
50IchorE2 5c *5
51Complete the AsteriskE4 6a  
52The Big YE2 5c *3
53Y NotE2 5c  
55Cross RouteS 4a  
56SuicideHVS 5a  
57The MagusHVS **5
58SteppenwolfHVS 5a * 
59Steppenwolf (variation)E2 5b  
60GilgameshHVS 4c 1
61Gilded TurdHVS 4c 2
62Girdle TurdVS 4c  
64OsramHVS 5a 10
65Ulysses P1E3 6a 5
66Odysseus or BustE4 6a *1
67Up the Styx, Without a Paddle7b **18
68Shadowstyx7c **7
69Shadow Beast7c+ ***3
70Mustard Custard7c ***5
71Hart of DarknessE5 6b * 
73The OdysseyHVS 5a  
74Ulysses P2E1 5a  
75Song of the SirensVS 5a  
76ThesaurusE4 6c  
77The Minor TourE4 6a  
78The Poseiden AdventureE1 5a * 
79CalypsoE3 5c  
80Basking SharkE5 6c ** 
82Normal HeroE3 5c 2
83FaithE3 6a 1
84Carbon PaperE4 6a * 
85Ruby in the DustVS 4c *36
86RenegadeE4 6a ***13
87FibroidsE4 6a  
88Black IceE3 5c ***71
89Grip Type ThynneE1 5b *16
90Captain ButtwashE3 6a  
91Band of Rusty GoldHVS 5a  
92Coup de GraceVS 5a *14
93Magic Carpet RideVS 4c 5
94TransferenceE1 5b  
95SafariHVS 5a **12
96JaywalkVS 4b  
97Slanting ChimneyHVS 4c 2
98Corner ClimbVS 4c 2
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