Paynes Ford caters for most needs - from the hard rock junkie to the mellow hang - out types. It's got easy access, there are a variety of grades and types of climbing, good swimming holes and above water bouldering for when it gets hot plus all the other activities and distractions that Golden Bay has.... coffee, sun, sea, surf, mountain biking, tramping, kayaking and of course some of NZ's best caving on Takaka Hill - or try Irvines Cave, it's up the back ...somewhere.
Check out the Mussel Inn (Onekaka), the Wholemeal Cafe and the Cinema. Summer is usually enlivened with a variety of live concerts, raves and other entertainments.
The steep solid limestone dries quickly and climbing is only inhibited by the wettest weather - its even good in mid winter (when the friction is better).
Paynes is New Zealand's answer to Arapiles. Not in the size, quality, or quantity of climbing but because, like Arap's, it's a really great place to hang out, climb and have fun. It has way more recreational activities than Wharepapa, is more accessible than the Bay, and quite different climbing to Wanaka. The fact that once you are here you can stay and climb quite easily without having a car says it all. It has become pretty popular with overseas visitors despite not having a lot of really hard climbs and an integral part of a NZ climbing road trip. It might not be world class but it is one of New Zealand climbing's gems.
The coastal cliffs of the Pohara area offer a different style and environment to the climbing at Paynes itself. There are more moderate climbs, the rock tends to have flat, positive, small edges, and routes are longer - up to 30m. In some areas, a patina of cement dust has settled over some of the rock (e.g. Concrete Rain) making climbing interesting.
Most cliffs are north-facing, thus in the sun until early afternoon. Pohara rock dries quickly.
While there is a lot of rock in the area, not all is 'strong' and the location near to the road precludes climbing in some places. Parking can be difficult. Use your discretion. Take sunscreen, water and sunhats. A helmet is a good idea for belayers too as there is the odd loose rock!!!
Oh the map google provides is wrong in that Tarakohe is actually the Port and is where the pointer is.
How to get there?
Golden Bay is in the top left corner of New Zealand. If you know where the Abel Tasman National Park is then you are almost there. Takaka is over the hill from Motueka. Follow State Highway 60 on a very windy road (about 50 minutes drive). The <b>Paynes Ford</b> cliffs are in a Scenic reserve 4 km south of Takaka township, just beside the Paynes Ford road bridge. Hangdog camp is 2 minutes walk from the car park.
To get to <b>Pohara</b> you can drive into Takaka, turn R at the supermarket then R at the end of the street its about 10km to the Pohara store continue on from there and cliffs start appearing.
|COUNT DUCKULAR WALL|
|HUNTLEY AND PALMERS WAFER|
|4||Neptune's Gift||21 *||2|
|6||Stairway Of The Gods||17 **||12|
|8||Stella Blue||19 **||7|
|9||Tales From The Sea||15 *||13|
|10||Something Wicked||18 *||10|
|11||White Pointer||16 *||10|
|12||Gecko Crack||17 *||7|
|COSMIC WUNDER KRUNCH WALL|
|14||The Jagged Edge||18||2|
|18||Before the Rain||12 *||3|
|DR LIVINGSTONE WALL|
|25||Teaching Aliens to speak English||15||8|
|SHIP OF FOOLS|
|34||Shotgun Therapy||21 *||5|
|36||X Factor||19 *||3|
|37||R for Roger||15||6|
|38||Unzip a Banana||15 *||12|
|39||Yoghurt On Yer Tackle||16||11|
|40||Hair on a G-String||17 *||15|
|43||Suck on This||17 **||4|
|44||Hi, Big Boy||16 *||11|
|45||Up Against the Wall M.F.||17 *||11|
|46||Some Like it Hot||15 *||10|
|47||Franklin's Tower||16 *||20|
|48||Ruby Tuesday||17 *||4|
|50||Sweet Jane||16 *||4|
|52||As Good As It Gets||21 ***||2|
|BO PEEP SLAB|
|57||Status Anxiety||18 *||4|
|58||Coup de Grace||21 **||6|
|59||Vexatious Litigant||21 **||9|
|63||Big Legs Tight Skirt||19 **||2|
|65||All I Ever Wanted Was Dailysis *||22 *||1|
|66||It Is What It Is *||20||1|
|67||Go Side On *||23 *||1|
|68||Concrete Rain *||21||1|
|69||Clunge *||27 *|
|70||Ode to the Muffin Man *||22|
|71||Black Marigolds *||17 *||1|
|72||From Mystery into Mystery *||20|
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