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These details were last updated on 13/Sep/2011

Chudleigh Rocks

Devon, ENGLAND

Climbs 135 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

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Guidebooks
West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 PIXIES HOLE AREA  
2EenyD 93
3MeenyD 92
4MineyD 70
5MoD 90
6Jim's FollyS 58
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b 28
8One Foot in the GraveHS 4a 56
9AlbatrossE1 5b  
10A Farewell to ArmsE2 5c 4
11Big BirdE5 6b **3
12Seventh SealE5 6b * 
13Chudleigh OverhangVS 5a **103
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b  
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *1
16DripdryE4 6b **13
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *1
 GAGOOL BUTTRESS  
19LogicE1 5b **103
20GagoolE1 5b **100
21Gagool DirectE2 5c **20
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **1
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **8
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***149
 COMBAT WALL  
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *4
27Combined CombatE2 5b **6
28CombatE3 5c ***54
29TendonitisE4 6a 14
30ObstreperousE6 6c 3
31OesophagusHVS 5b **137
32Before the stormE3 5c 16
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***280
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a 4
35OssuaryE7 6c *2
36ConcertoE3 5c *5
37Into The GrooveE6 6c 1
38White EdgeE1 5b 12
39White Edge - ConcertoE3 5c **13
40Army DreamersE2 5c 4
 GREEN MANTLE AREA  
42Green MantleD **188
43Green Mantle Variation 1aHS 4b 28
44Tar BabyS 4a 299
45Brer FoxS 4a 71
46Brer RabbitHS 4a 86
 SPACE BUTTRESS  
48Red DwarfE2 5c 1
49Saturn FiveE2 5b *114
50Major TomE3 6a *25
51SquirrelHS 4a 58
52Ground ControlE2 5c 2
53Devils ElbowVS 4b 1
54Space OdesseyE3 5c  
 SALOME AREA  
56White RastaE2 6a 1
57SchweinhundE4 6c * 
58Pigs Might FlyE3 5c ** 
59Christmas CornerVS 4b 38
60BikoE2 5c 2
61SalomeS 4a *331
62Seventh VeilVS 4c 121
63Seventh Veil DirectE1 5a *91
64Feeling FeistyE3 5b  
65Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a 4
66Hot IceE4 6a **56
67KushE5 6b/c *2
 COW CAVE AREA  
69BangVS 5
70Monty Python's Flying CircusVS 1
71TNTHVS 5a 89
72Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *6
73Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c 68
 Climb nameGradex
74Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 5c **18
75Smokey JoeE3 6a *5
76Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b 5
77LootHVS 5a **60
78The Main ManE4 6c ** 
79Thu'n'ellE3 6a 1
80TwangE1 5b **138
81Highly StrungE4 6b 4
82ReekHS 4b **271
83SpearheadHS 4b 55
84LeekHS 4b 100
85Barn Owl CrackHVD *284
86Barn Owl VariantVS 4b 40
87Ashtree ButtressVD 58
88The SlotHVS 5a **47
89PangaE3 6a *12
90Island RacerE4 6b  
91NapalmVS 4c 3
92South FaceE4 6a *2
93...king HellE4 6b  
 MACHETE WALL AREA  
95South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane ComboE4 6a **1
96Machete WallE2 5c ***134
97Mortality CrisisE4 6a **37
98Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***1
99Penny LaneE3 6b *17
100Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **2
101Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***400
102Inkerman Groove DirectHVS 5a **75
103Black DeathE4 6a ***48
104White LifeE5 6b ***14
105Musical Women No2E5 6b ** 
106WogsHVD ***520
107SisyphusVS 4b 14
108Central PillarHVS 5a 31
109TantalusE1 5b 17
110Bat CountryE3 5c *2
 NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA  
112ScarVS 4c *111
113Never On SundayHS 4b **283
114Never on Sunday Variation 2aVS 4c 14
115Never on Sunday Variation 2bVS 5a 15
116Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *31
117Stepping OutE3 5c *2
 WESTERN TOWER  
119The FlyHVS 5a **67
120The SpyE3 5c 25
121The SpiderE1 5b ***173
122Great WesternVS 5a ***215
123ArachnophobiaE2 5b  
124The WebE4 6a 2
125EspionageE4 6a 3
126Pigs EarE4 6b  
127The Red BaronE6 6b *1
 STALACTITE WALL  
129StalactiteVS 4b 37
130Stalactite DirectVS 4c *84
131Aching ArmsHVS 5a *3
132Grim ReaperE3 5c 31
133HarvestmanE5 6a 12
134Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **5
135WhoremoansE6 6b **2
136AltroposE3 5b *1
137OrpheusE6 6a  
138West EndHS 4
139Stuff the E5sM 2
 GIRDLE TRAVERSE'S  
141Rubble TroubleVD 4
142Eastern GirdleE1 5b 2
143The EquationE3 6a **2
144South face GirdleE1 5b 1
145Western TraverseV0 4c/5a *9
146Gulley Traverse (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)V2 5c *8
Advertise here
Access notes
Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the R - !!DO NOT PARK HERE!!) to a R turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford

Ugbrooke Park

Chudleigh

South Devon

TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 ? - 07/Apr/13

Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan ? - 23/Jun/09

Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale ? - 18/Jun/09

There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 ? - 14/May/09

Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller ? - 03/May/09

Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08

There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06