Climbs 148
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
Chudleigh
South Devon
TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Access Advice

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below. Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible. Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pixies Hole Area 
2EenyD 141
3MeenyD 140
4MineyD 107
5MoD 128
6Jim's FollyS 79
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b 34
8One Foot in the Grave
-
HS 4a 72
9Albatross
-
E1 5b  
10A Farewell to ArmsE3 6a **9
11Big Bird
-
E5 6b **10
12Seventh Seal
-
E5 6b * 
13Chudleigh OverhangHVS 5a *140
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b  
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *2
16DripdryE4 6b **20
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *2
 GAGOOL BUTTRESS 
19Logic
-
E1 5b **136
20GagoolE1 5b **149
21Gagool DirectE3 5c *28
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **6
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **12
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***204
 Combat Wall 
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *5
27Combined CombatE2 5b **13
28CombatE3 5c ***76
29TendonitisE4 6a 18
30ObstreperousE6 6c 4
31OesophagusE1 5b ***199
32Before the stormE3 5c 26
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***405
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a 12
35Concerto
-
E3 5c *12
36OssuaryE7 6c *3
37TossuaryE8 7a *1
38Into The Groove
-
E7 6c 3
39White EdgeE1 5b 19
40White Edge - Concerto
-
E3 5c **16
41Army DreamersE2 5c 7
 GREEN MANTLE AREA 
43Green MantleD **274
44Green Mantle Variation 1a
-
HS 4b 33
45Tar Baby
-
S 4a 409
46Brer FoxS 4a 89
47Brer RabbitHS 4a 107
 SPACE BUTTRESS 
49Red DwarfE2 5c 6
50StarmanE1 5b 4
51Saturn FiveE2 5b *157
52Major TomE3 6a **47
53Squirrel
-
HS 4a 68
54Ground ControlE1 5c *8
55Devils ElbowVS 4c 7
56Space OdysseyE3 5c 3
 SALOME AREA 
58White RastaE2 6a 3
59SchweinhundE4 6c * 
60Pigs Might FlyE3 5c **2
61Christmas CornerVS 4b 44
62BikoE2 5c 7
63SalomeS 4a *483
64Seventh VeilVS 4c 180
65Seventh Veil DirectE2 5a/b *124
66Pigs on the WingE2 5b 9
67Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a 6
68Hot IceE4 6a *71
69KushE5 6b/c *3
 COW CAVE AREA 
71BangVS 5
72Monty Python's Flying CircusVS 2
73TNTVS 5a 127
74Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *9
75Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c *93
76Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 6a *30
77Smokey JoeE3 6a *14
78Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b 9
79LootHVS 5b **92
80The Main Man
-
E4 6c ** 
81Thu'n'ell
-
E3 6a 2
82TwangE1 5b **193
83Highly StrungE4 6b 6
84ReekHS 4b *393
85Spearhead
-
HS 4b 74
86Leek
-
HS 4b 121
87Barn Owl CrackHVD **453
88Barn Owl VariantVS 4b 48
89Ashtree ButtressVD *89
90The SlotHVS 5a **73
91PangaE3 6a *17
92Island Racer
-
E4 6b  
93NapalmHVS 5a 6
94South FaceE4 6a *5
95...king Hell
-
E4 6b  
 MACHETE WALL AREA 
97South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
-
E4 6a **6
98Machete WallE2 5c **202
99Mortality CrisisE4 6a **66
100Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***4
101Penny LaneE3 6b *29
102Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **3
103Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***661
104Inkerman Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a **107
105Black DeathE4 6a ***74
106Wall right of Jammyf5+ 1
107White LifeE5 6b ***20
108Musical Women No2
-
E5 6b ** 
109WogsHVD ***772
110Sisyphus
-
VS 4b 19
111Central PillarHVS 5a 40
112TantalusE1 5b 21
113Bat CountryE3 5c *4
 NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA 
115ScarVS 4b *159
116Never On SundayHS 4b **427
117Never on Sunday Variation 2a
-
VS 4c 20
118Never on Sunday Variation 2b
-
VS 5a 17
119Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *42
120Stepping OutE3 5c *6
 WESTERN TOWER 
122The Fly
-
HVS 5a **90
123The SpyE3 5c **36
124The SpiderE1 5b ***259
125Great WesternVS 5a ***358
126ArachnophobiaE2 5b 3
127The WebE4 6a 3
128EspionageE4 6a 4
129Pigs Ear
-
E4 6b  
130The Red BaronE6 6b *4
 STALACTITE WALL 
132StalactiteVS 4b 45
133Stalactite DirectHVS 5a *156
134Aching ArmsHVS 5a *7
135Grim ReaperE3 5c *74
136HarvestmanE5 6a *17
137Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **6
138WhoremoansE6 6b **6
139AtroposE3 5b *6
140Orpheus
-
E6 6a 2
141West End
-
HS 6
142Stuff the E5sM 8
 Girdle Traverses/Bouldering 
144Rubble Trouble
-
VD 5
145Eastern GirdleE1 5b 5
146The Equation
-
E3 6a **3
147South face GirdleE1 5b 2
148Western Traversef4+ **13
149Arachnophobicf5 *3
150Gully Wall with Top Out (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)f6A ***12
151Gully Wall with Sloper top outf6A+ 3
152Gully Wall Low Traversef5 **3
153Pacmanf6A+ *3
154Limbo Groovef6B+ *2
155Simon's ProblemV9 **2
156Simon's Problem SitV10 *** 
157Dream On to Chudleigh Overhangf6A 3
158Big Bird Arete Startf5+ 3
159Farewell to Big Birdf5 *3
160Jammyf4+ *3

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