Chudleigh Rocks

Climbs 138 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Access notes
Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the R - !!DO NOT PARK HERE!!) to a R turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford

Ugbrooke Park


South Devon


Tel: 01626 852179

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2EenyD 117
3MeenyD 118
4MineyD 91
5MoD 110
6Jim's FollyS 68
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b 31
8One Foot in the GraveHS 4a 65
9AlbatrossE1 5b  
10A Farewell to ArmsE2 5c 8
11Big BirdE5 6b **4
12Seventh SealE5 6b * 
13Chudleigh OverhangVS 5a **116
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b  
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *1
16DripdryE4 6b **16
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *1
19LogicE1 5b **123
20GagoolE1 5b **128
21Gagool DirectE2 5c **24
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **4
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **9
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***183
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *4
27Combined CombatE2 5b **6
28CombatE3 5c ***66
29TendonitisE4 6a 15
30ObstreperousE6 6c 3
31OesophagusE1 5b ***173
32Before the stormE3 5c 19
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***351
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a 10
35OssuaryE7 6c *2
36ConcertoE3 5c *6
37Into The GrooveE7 6c 1
38White EdgeE1 5b 16
39White Edge - ConcertoE3 5c **13
40Army DreamersE2 5c 6
42Green MantleD **238
43Green Mantle Variation 1aHS 4b 32
44Tar BabyS 4a 371
45Brer FoxS 4a 86
46Brer RabbitHS 4a 101
48Red DwarfE2 5c 1
49Saturn FiveE2 5b *138
50Major TomE3 6a **36
51SquirrelHS 4a 65
52Ground ControlE2 5c 7
53Devils ElbowVS 4b 4
54Space OdysseyE3 5c 2
56White RastaE2 6a 2
57SchweinhundE4 6c * 
58Pigs Might FlyE3 5c ** 
59Christmas CornerVS 4b 40
60BikoE2 5c 3
61SalomeVD 4a *408
62Seventh VeilVS 5a 152
63Seventh Veil DirectE1 5b *111
64Feeling FeistyE3 5b 1
65Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a 3
66Hot IceE4 6a *60
67KushE5 6b/c *2
69BangVS 4
70Monty Python's Flying CircusVS 1
71TNTVS 5a 114
72Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *6
73Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c *83
74Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 5c *23
75Smokey JoeE3 6a *12
76Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b 6
77LootHVS 5a **77
78The Main ManE4 6c ** 
79Thu'n'ellE3 6a 1
80TwangE1 5b **175
81Highly StrungE4 6b 5
82ReekHS 4b *332
83SpearheadHS 4b 70
84LeekHS 4b 114
85Barn Owl CrackHVD **373
86Barn Owl VariantVS 4b 46
87Ashtree ButtressVD *77
88The SlotHVS 5a **59
89PangaE3 6a *14
90Island RacerE4 6b  
91NapalmVS 4c 3
92South FaceE4 6a *2
93...king HellE4 6b  
95South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane ComboE4 6a **1
96Machete WallE2 5c **170
97Mortality CrisisE4 6a **50
98Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***1
99Penny LaneE3 6b *22
100Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **2
101Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***519
102Inkerman Groove DirectHVS 5a **94
103Black DeathE4 6a ***55
104White LifeE5 6b ***17
105Musical Women No2E5 6b ** 
106WogsHVD ***672
107SisyphusVS 4b 18
108Central PillarHVS 5a 37
109TantalusE1 5b 17
110Bat CountryE3 5c *2
112ScarVS 4b *140
113Never On SundayHS 4b **362
114Never on Sunday Variation 2aVS 4c 17
115Never on Sunday Variation 2bVS 5a 16
116Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *37
117Stepping OutE3 5c *2
119The FlyHVS 5a **84
120The SpyE3 5c 29
121The SpiderE1 5b ***222
122Great WesternVS 5a ***286
123ArachnophobiaE2 5b 2
124The WebE4 6a 2
125EspionageE4 6a 3
126Pigs EarE4 6b  
127The Red BaronE6 6b *1
129StalactiteVS 4b 42
130Stalactite DirectHVS 5a *124
131Aching ArmsHVS 5a *5
132Grim ReaperE3 5c *60
133HarvestmanE5 6a *15
134Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **5
135WhoremoansE6 6b **2
136AtroposE3 5b *4
137OrpheusE6 6a 2
138West EndHS 5
139Stuff the E5sM 7
141Rubble TroubleVD 4
142Eastern GirdleE1 5b 4
143The EquationE3 6a **2
144South face GirdleE1 5b 1
145Western TraverseV0 4c/5a *12
146Gulley Traverse (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)V2 5c *11
147Simon's ProblemV9 **1
148Simon's Problem SitV10 *** 
149ArachnophobicV2 5c 2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Justin T

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06