Climbs 138
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
South Devon

Tel: 01626 852179

Access Advice

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below. Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible. Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pixies Hole Area 
2EenyD 131
3MeenyD 129
4MineyD 99
5MoD 120
6Jim's FollyS 76
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b 32
8One Foot in the Grave
HS 4a 68
E1 5b  
10A Farewell to ArmsE2 5c 8
11Big Bird
E5 6b **9
12Seventh Seal
E5 6b * 
13Chudleigh OverhangHVS 5a *128
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b  
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *1
16DripdryE4 6b **18
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *1
E1 5b **133
20GagoolE1 5b **145
21Gagool Direct
E2 5c **26
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **5
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **11
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***197
 Combat Wall 
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *4
27Combined CombatE2 5b **8
28CombatE3 5c ***72
29TendonitisE4 6a 16
30ObstreperousE6 6c 4
31OesophagusE1 5b ***190
32Before the stormE3 5c 19
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***384
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a 11
35OssuaryE7 6c *2
E3 5c *11
37Into The Groove
E7 6c 2
38White EdgeE1 5b 18
39White Edge - Concerto
E3 5c **14
40Army DreamersE2 5c 6
42Green MantleD **257
43Green Mantle Variation 1a
HS 4b 32
44Tar Baby
S 4a 396
45Brer FoxS 4a 88
46Brer RabbitHS 4a 102
48Red DwarfE2 5c 1
49Saturn FiveE2 5b *149
50Major TomE3 6a **43
HS 4a 65
52Ground ControlE2 5c 7
53Devils ElbowVS 4b 4
54Space OdysseyE3 5c 2
56White RastaE2 6a 2
57SchweinhundE4 6c * 
58Pigs Might FlyE3 5c ** 
59Christmas CornerVS 4b 43
60BikoE2 5c 6
61SalomeS 4a *457
62Seventh VeilVS 4c 167
63Seventh Veil Direct
E1 5a *118
64Feeling FeistyE3 5b 4
65Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a 3
66Hot IceE4 6a *67
67KushE5 6b/c *2
69BangVS 4
70Monty Python's Flying CircusVS 1
71TNTVS 5a 120
72Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *8
73Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c *90
74Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 6a *28
75Smokey JoeE3 6a *12
76Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b 8
77LootHVS 5b **85
78The Main Man
E4 6c ** 
E3 6a 1
80TwangE1 5b **181
81Highly Strung
E4 6b 5
82ReekHS 4b *373
HS 4b 73
HS 4b 115
85Barn Owl CrackHVD **407
86Barn Owl VariantVS 4b 46
87Ashtree ButtressVD *86
88The SlotHVS 5a **64
89PangaE3 6a *15
90Island Racer
E4 6b  
VS 4c 5
92South Face
E4 6a *4
93...king Hell
E4 6b  
95South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
E4 6a **1
96Machete WallE2 5c **193
97Mortality CrisisE4 6a **62
98Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***2
99Penny LaneE3 6b *27
100Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **2
101Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***613
102Inkerman Groove Direct
HVS 5a **102
103Black DeathE4 6a ***71
104White LifeE5 6b ***19
105Musical Women No2
E5 6b ** 
106WogsHVD ***729
VS 4b 18
108Central PillarHVS 5a 37
109TantalusE1 5b 17
110Bat CountryE3 5c *2
112ScarVS 4b *149
113Never On SundayHS 4b **398
114Never on Sunday Variation 2a
VS 4c 18
115Never on Sunday Variation 2b
VS 5a 16
116Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *41
117Stepping OutE3 5c *2
119The Fly
HVS 5a **88
120The SpyE3 5c **34
121The SpiderE1 5b ***249
122Great WesternVS 5a ***340
123ArachnophobiaE2 5b 2
124The Web
E4 6a 2
125EspionageE4 6a 3
126Pigs Ear
E4 6b  
127The Red BaronE6 6b *1
129StalactiteVS 4b 44
130Stalactite DirectHVS 5a *144
131Aching ArmsHVS 5a *5
132Grim ReaperE3 5c *70
133HarvestmanE5 6a *16
134Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **5
135WhoremoansE6 6b **5
136AtroposE3 5b *5
E6 6a 2
138West End
HS 5
139Stuff the E5sM 7
 Girdle Traverses/Bouldering 
141Rubble Trouble
VD 4
142Eastern GirdleE1 5b 4
143The Equation
E3 6a **2
144South face GirdleE1 5b 1
145Western Traversef4 *12
146Gulley Traverse (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)f5+ *11
147Simon's Problemf7C **1
148Simon's Problem Sitf7C+ *** 
149Arachnophobicf5+ 2

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