Chudleigh Rocks

Climbs 138 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Access notes
Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the R - !!DO NOT PARK HERE!!) to a R turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford

Ugbrooke Park

Chudleigh

South Devon

TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), West Country Climbs (2010), South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 PIXIES HOLE AREA 
2EenyD
3MeenyD
4MineyD
5MoD
6Jim's FollyS
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b
8One Foot in the GraveHS 4a
9AlbatrossE1 5b
10A Farewell to ArmsE2 5c
11Big BirdE5 6b **
12Seventh SealE5 6b *
13Chudleigh OverhangVS 5a **
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *
16DripdryE4 6b **
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *
 GAGOOL BUTTRESS 
19LogicE1 5b **
20GagoolE1 5b **
21Gagool DirectE2 5c **
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***
 COMBAT WALL 
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *
27Combined CombatE2 5b **
28CombatE3 5c ***
29TendonitisE4 6a
30ObstreperousE6 6c
31OesophagusHVS 5b **
32Before the stormE3 5c
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a
35OssuaryE7 6c *
36ConcertoE3 5c *
37Into The GrooveE7 6c
38White EdgeE1 5b
39White Edge - ConcertoE3 5c **
40Army DreamersE2 5c
 GREEN MANTLE AREA 
42Green MantleD **
43Green Mantle Variation 1aHS 4b
44Tar BabyS 4a
45Brer FoxS 4a
46Brer RabbitHS 4a
 SPACE BUTTRESS 
48Red DwarfE2 5c
49Saturn FiveE2 5b *
50Major TomE3 6a *
51SquirrelHS 4a
52Ground ControlE2 5c
53Devils ElbowVS 4b
54Space OdysseyE3 5c
 SALOME AREA 
56White RastaE2 6a
57SchweinhundE4 6c *
58Pigs Might FlyE3 5c **
59Christmas CornerVS 4b
60BikoE2 5c
61SalomeS 4a *
62Seventh VeilVS 4c
63Seventh Veil DirectE1 5a *
64Feeling FeistyE3 5b
65Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a
66Hot IceE4 6a **
67KushE5 6b/c *
 COW CAVE AREA 
69BangVS
70Monty Python's Flying CircusVS
71TNTHVS 5a
72Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *
73Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c
74Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 6a **
75Smokey JoeE3 6a *
76Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b
77LootHVS 5a **
78The Main ManE4 6c **
79Thu'n'ellE3 6a
80TwangE1 5b **
81Highly StrungE4 6b
82ReekHS 4b **
83SpearheadHS 4b
84LeekHS 4b
85Barn Owl CrackHVD *
86Barn Owl VariantVS 4b
87Ashtree ButtressVD
88The SlotHVS 5a **
89PangaE3 6a *
90Island RacerE4 6b
91NapalmVS 4c
92South FaceE4 6a *
93...king HellE4 6b
 MACHETE WALL AREA 
95South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane ComboE4 6a **
96Machete WallE2 5c ***
97Mortality CrisisE4 6a **
98Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***
99Penny LaneE3 6b *
100Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **
101Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***
102Inkerman Groove DirectHVS 5a **
103Black DeathE4 6a ***
104White LifeE5 6b ***
105Musical Women No2E5 6b **
106WogsHVD ***
107SisyphusVS 4b
108Central PillarHVS 5a
109TantalusE1 5b
110Bat CountryE3 5c *
 NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA 
112ScarVS 4c *
113Never On SundayHS 4b **
114Never on Sunday Variation 2aVS 4c
115Never on Sunday Variation 2bVS 5a
116Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *
117Stepping OutE3 5c *
 WESTERN TOWER 
119The FlyHVS 5a **
120The SpyE3 5c
121The SpiderE1 5b ***
122Great WesternVS 5a ***
123ArachnophobiaE2 5b
124The WebE4 6a
125EspionageE4 6a
126Pigs EarE4 6b
127The Red BaronE6 6b *
 STALACTITE WALL 
129StalactiteVS 4b
130Stalactite DirectVS 4c *
131Aching ArmsHVS 5a *
132Grim ReaperE3 5c
133HarvestmanE5 6a
134Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **
135WhoremoansE6 6b **
136AtroposE3 5b *
137OrpheusE6 6a
138West EndHS
139Stuff the E5sM
 GIRDLE TRAVERSES/BOULDERING 
141Rubble TroubleVD
142Eastern GirdleE1 5b
143The EquationE3 6a **
144South face GirdleE1 5b
145Western TraverseV0 4c/5a *
146Gulley Traverse (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)V2 5c *
147Simon's ProblemV9 **
148Simon's Problem SitV10 ***
149ArachnophobicV2 5c
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 13/Sep/2011

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