Climbs 146
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 58m a.s.l
Faces S

Dave Henderson on first ascent of 'Ossuary' E7 6c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

High-quality (but polished!) compact limestone with many fine routes, well-protected; up to 130ft single- and multi-pitch routes. Standard sandbags ... errr I mean intriguing technical delights include Sarcophagus (VS 4b) and Oesophagus (E1 5a), the latter a strenuous and technical jamming crack, the former a multidimensional chimney with significant speleological interest. Quality routes for all grades.

Approach notes

Take the S exit towards Chudleigh off the A38, follow the signs back to Chudleigh for about 600m (passing Rock House Garden Centre on the right - DO NOT PARK HERE) to a right turn at the police station into Rock Lane. Limited parking where the road widens by the entrance to Palace Quarry (please to not block the road, or park in the quarry entrance). Please note that the North Face is owned by The Rock Centre who have put in lower off for all the routes on the Eastern face - for North Face routes please call at the house to get permission to climb and park as above, not at the house. There are some routes in the quarry, but this is privately owned and access is not usually granted!

Take the footpath from a wrought-iron gate, follow a wall that follows the hillside. Where the path splits take the upper track, to a narrow neck of land. On your right is the begining of the North face. Follow a track that leads to the left, and with some scrambling you will arrive at Eeny, Meeny, Miney and Mo, further scrambling down right leads to the south face proper.

Commercial and educational groups wishing to climb on the South Face should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site:

Lord Clifford
Ugbrooke Park
Chudleigh
South Devon
TQ13 OAD

Tel: 01626 852179

Access Advice

The landowner, Lord Clifford, is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but has asked that all climbers using the crag have appropriate 3rd party liability insurance. (This is an integral part of BMC/MCofS membership or can be found elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover as the BMC/MCofS policies). Commercial and educational groups should contact Lord Clifford for permission prior to using the site, however this does not affect individual climbers. For contact details, see the group advice section below. Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible. Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Climbers should be aware that theft from cars has occurred in the past - avoid leaving valuables in your car if possible.

Please do not light any fires - this has occasionally occured and damaged the plant life and local bat colony.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Chudleigh has a strange proliferation of pegs and in-situ threads that are right next to bomber wires. I ain sayin all the fixed stuff is right next to bomber wires, but that which is - any reason it shouldn't come out?
Andy Moles - 05/Apr/15
Bees nest seen at the top of Barn Owl Crack yesterday (6th March), instead of following route line I just went to the right finishing up at probably the same grade.
Matt Smith - 07/Mar/15
Does anybody know if there is any seepage at the moment?
tomwheeler - 03/Dec/13
Combined Ops and Machete wall are no longer soft E2's since both have lost pegs. Co-Ops is strenuous and fiddly to protect the moves into the white groove. Machete has only one Cassin Ring Peg at the crux and these have been known to fail. It is vital to back this peg up with small wires before running it out to the next resting hold.
Kafoozalem - 23/Oct/13
Took the secateurs up Central Pillar today and left it in a much more enjoyable state. If more people yanked the ivy off, bashed the stinging nettles down and trimmed the brambles Chudleigh would be almost perfect :-)
Kafoozalem - 10/Aug/13
Probably the most polished crag i have ever been to!
Dean177 - 07/Apr/13
Didn't see any bees up Barn Owl Crack yesterday. Did see a rather vicious looking hornet at the bottom of salome though!
Richard Morgan - 23/Jun/09
Often considered as polished and rubbish, chudleigh is a lot better than you would be lead to believe. Major scope for great days out - beautiful valley location with great views and easily accessible by Bus (25mins) from Exeter. "The Spider" (E1 5b) is spectacular!
SCGale - 18/Jun/09
There are still bees towards the top of Barn Owl Crack (11/05/2009)
tom169 - 14/May/09
Hello folks - a reminder to follow the guidebook info for access. The Rock Centre has nothing to do with the south face of Chudleigh Rocks. It is owned and managed by the Clifford Estate and English Nature. Access is, as always, from Rock Road (park past the police station). Please do not lie to the staff in order to park at the Rock Centre and gain access! Legitimate North Face climbers are always welcome with permission, but parking off site still applies
ecowaller - 03/May/09
Beware bees nesting 3/4 way up Barn Owl Crack 4/5/08
Kafoozalem - 04/May/08
There is an up to date dowhloadable guide at http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/Chudleigh/index.shtml
Mark Kemball - 13/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pixies Hole Area 
2EenyD 133
3MeenyD 132
4MineyD 101
5MoD 122
6Jim's FollyS 78
7Chainsaw MassacreHVS 5b 33
8One Foot in the Grave
-
HS 4a 70
9Albatross
-
E1 5b  
10A Farewell to ArmsE3 6a **9
11Big Bird
-
E5 6b **10
12Seventh Seal
-
E5 6b * 
13Chudleigh OverhangHVS 5a *148
14Phoenix on FireE4 6b  
15Dripdry IndirectE4 6a *2
16DripdryE4 6b **19
17Dream On DirectE5 6b *2
 GAGOOL BUTTRESS 
19Logic
-
E1 5b **134
20GagoolE1 5b **147
21Gagool DirectE3 5c *27
22Gagool Direct DirectE4 6a **6
23Sly Boots McCallE4 6b **12
24Combined OpsE2 5b ***213
 Combat Wall 
26Fluffy HandcuffsE3 5c *5
27Combined CombatE2 5b **9
28CombatE3 5c ***73
29TendonitisE4 6a 17
30ObstreperousE6 6c 4
31OesophagusE1 5b ***214
32Before the stormE3 5c 20
33SarcophagusVS 4b ***410
34Sarcophagus (variation)VS 4a 12
35OssuaryE7 6c *3
36Concerto
-
E3 5c *12
37Into The Groove
-
E7 6c 3
38White EdgeE1 5b 19
39White Edge - Concerto
-
E3 5c **15
40Army DreamersE2 5c 7
 GREEN MANTLE AREA 
42Green MantleD **258
43Green Mantle Variation 1a
-
HS 4b 33
44Tar Baby
-
S 4a 399
45Brer FoxS 4a 89
46Brer RabbitHS 4a 104
 SPACE BUTTRESS 
48Red DwarfE2 5c 6
49StarmanE1 5b 4
50Saturn FiveE2 5b *165
51Major TomE3 6a **48
52Squirrel
-
HS 4a 66
53Ground ControlE1 5c *8
54Devils ElbowVS 4c 8
55Space OdysseyE3 5c 3
 SALOME AREA 
57White RastaE2 6a 3
58SchweinhundE4 6c * 
59Pigs Might FlyE3 5c ** 
60Christmas CornerVS 4b 44
61BikoE2 5c 7
62SalomeS 4a *469
63Seventh VeilVS 4c 172
64Seventh Veil DirectE2 5a/b *122
65Pigs on the WingE2 5b 9
66Flinger's Sleight ReturnE3 6a 6
67Hot IceE4 6a *74
68KushE5 6b/c *3
 COW CAVE AREA 
70BangVS 5
71Monty Python's Flying CircusVS 2
72TNTVS 5a 124
73Crimp me a PastyE1 5c *9
74Guy Fawkes CrackVS 4c *91
75Smoke Gets In Your EyesE3 6a *29
76Smokey JoeE3 6a *13
77Charlie Chaplin Walks On AirE3 6b 9
78LootHVS 5b **88
79The Main Man
-
E4 6c ** 
80Thu'n'ell
-
E3 6a 2
81TwangE1 5b **183
82Highly StrungE4 6b 6
83ReekHS 4b *370
84Spearhead
-
HS 4b 75
85Leek
-
HS 4b 116
86Barn Owl CrackHVD **413
87Barn Owl VariantVS 4b 48
88Ashtree ButtressVD *87
89The SlotHVS 5a **65
90PangaE3 6a *16
91Island Racer
-
E4 6b  
92NapalmHVS 5a 6
93South FaceE4 6a *5
94...king Hell
-
E4 6b  
 MACHETE WALL AREA 
96South Face/ Machete Wall/ Penny Lane Combo
-
E4 6a **2
97Machete WallE2 5c **214
98Mortality CrisisE4 6a **63
99Mortality Crisis DirectE5 6a ***3
100Penny LaneE3 6b *28
101Penny Lane DirectE5 6b/c **3
102Inkerman GrooveVS 4c ***618
103Inkerman Groove Direct
-
HVS 5a **104
104Black DeathE4 6a ***82
105White LifeE5 6b ***20
106Musical Women No2
-
E5 6b ** 
107WogsHVD ***750
108Sisyphus
-
VS 4b 19
109Central PillarHVS 5a 38
110TantalusE1 5b 18
111Bat CountryE3 5c *3
 NEVER ON A SUNDAY AREA 
113ScarVS 4b *151
114Never On SundayHS 4b **400
115Never on Sunday Variation 2a
-
VS 4c 19
116Never on Sunday Variation 2b
-
VS 5a 17
117Leap Year FinishHVS 5a *42
118Stepping OutE3 5c *3
 WESTERN TOWER 
120The Fly
-
HVS 5a **89
121The SpyE3 5c **35
122The SpiderE1 5b ***282
123Great WesternVS 5a ***341
124ArachnophobiaE2 5b 3
125The WebE4 6a 3
126EspionageE4 6a 4
127Pigs Ear
-
E4 6b  
128The Red BaronE6 6b *2
 STALACTITE WALL 
130StalactiteVS 4b 45
131Stalactite DirectHVS 5a *146
132Aching ArmsHVS 5a *7
133Grim ReaperE3 5c *72
134HarvestmanE5 6a *17
135Whoremoans ErectE5 6a **6
136WhoremoansE6 6b **6
137AtroposE3 5b *6
138Orpheus
-
E6 6a 2
139West End
-
HS 6
140Stuff the E5sM 8
 Girdle Traverses/Bouldering 
142Rubble Trouble
-
VD 5
143Eastern GirdleE1 5b 5
144The Equation
-
E3 6a **3
145South face GirdleE1 5b 2
146Western Traversef4+ **13
147Arachnophobicf5 *3
148Gully Wall with Top Out (aka Saturn Five Direct Start)f6A ***12
149Gully Wall with Sloper top outf6A+ 3
150Gully Wall Low Traversef5 **3
151Pacmanf6A+ *3
152Limbo Groovef6B+ *2
153Simon's ProblemV9 **2
154Simon's Problem SitV10 *** 
155Dream On to Chudleigh Overhangf6A 3
156Big Bird Arete Startf5+ 3
157Farewell to Big Birdf5 *3
158Jammyf4+ *3

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