Yesnaby

Climbs 98 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces ?

Crag features
The most developed area in Mainland Orkney. Mostly trad with a couple of sport climbs in a quarried area. Beautiful surroundings. Yesnaby castle, a popular seastack is located in this area.

Access notes
Easy access. Car park at HY 221161. From there take coastal path south to the climbs.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - North (2009), Northern Highlands North (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 POINT WALL  
2The Half BuoyS 4a *1
3BulletE2 5c * 
4Route 91HVS 5a 1
5Quoybank CrackE1 5b * 
6The Fantastic Mr FoxE3 6a * 
7Up tae High DohE1 5b ** 
8Peedie BreeksE4 6b * 
9The CogE2 5c * 
10Deep BlueE3 5c ** 
11Billy Bean's DreamE3 5c ** 
12The BendsE2 5c * 
13Blue CrushE1 5b ***1
14BirdmanE1 5b * 
15Tuttie's WallE2 5b ** 
16Tutties CrackE2 5b **2
17Tuttie's NeukHVS 5a **2
18Tut TutE1 5b  
 TOWER FACE  
20The QuarrymanE2 5b ***4
21Standing StoneE3 5c  
22The Big SwallE5 6b ** 
23SuperlupoE7 6c ** 
24No MaybesE3 6a **4
25Deceptively GroovyE2 5c **10
26The ForgottenE1 5b 5
27Bobbins GrooveE1 5a 4
28Ebb and FloVS 4c 11
29Time tae goVS 4c * 
 ARCH WALL  
31Crab CrawlHVS 5a **8
32The LungeE1 5c *3
33Taustie WallE3 6a *1
34Bleed it DryE3 6a ** 
35NuckelaveeE4 6a ***1
36UberwolfeE6 6b * 
37Long Hard WinterE3 5c ***5
38Ronnie the AxeE5 6a ** 
39Mally The MalletE6 6b * 
40Mack the KnifeE5 6a ** 
41HajjE5 6a ** 
42Summer PilgrimE4 6a * 
43Nyook WaaVS 5a 2
44Sunset crackHS 4b *5
45Orkney BlastE5 6b * 
46Northern LightE3 6a  
47The Lang HudaufVD 5
48The Langer HudaufVD * 
49Wee LumHVS 5a **8
 GARDYLOO WALL  
51Lum CrackE2 5c **1
52DragonheadE6 6b ***1
53YellowhammerE7 6c *** 
54SkullsplitterE2 5c **1
55FreeloaderE1 5b **1
56Wander WallE1 5b *1
57Ebb TideE2 5c * 
58The Orkney SessionsE5 6b * 
59Gardyloo GoldE2 5c ***2
60Thing of DreamsE2 5b ***1
61Sea of DreamsE2 5c **1
62DreamcatcherE3 5c ** 
63DreamweaverE3 5c ** 
64Yesnaby 500E4 6a ** 
65Dream TipperE3 6a *** 
66Home AloneS *4
67Watchers LungeVS 4b *2
68Cut and ThrustVS 4b *2
69Stolen PropertyHVS 5b *2
70The Long WaitVS 4b 2
71Video ShowS **8
72ThrutchVS 5a 2
 THE FALSE STACK  
74Ironstone Cowboy LHE4 6a * 
75Ironstone Cowboy RHE4 6a * 
76Dark IslandE4 6a ***3
77Summer's EndE2 5b ***6
78OJRWE1 5a *2
79The Crow's NestVS 4c **9
80SouthsideE2 5c ** 
81Storming the BridgeE5 6a *** 
82Three Wise IdiotsE1 5b  
83Benton 747E2 5c *2
84Variety ShowHVS 5a ***5
 THE STACK  
 SPECTATORS GEO  
87The Blue BaronE2 5b *2
88The Loved One *E4 5c **1
89New Sensation *E3 5c ***1
 NEMESIS BUTTRESS  
91NemesisE3 5c *** 
 THE QUARRY (SPORT ROUTES)  
93Quarryman5c 13
94Up the Middle6a 12
95The Stretch6a+ 8
96the Prow4c 16
97Wet Feet5c 5
98Daddy Long Legs6a 10
99Sunset Slab5c 12
100Olive oil6b 1
101Mr Steve7a 5
102Mr Ian6a+ 11
103Mr Chris6a 15
104Mr Tim5c 15
105Culture KatyHVS 5a 3
106Howard's WayVS 4c *5
107Old Mans FollyVS 4b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer IceBun

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Ace crag with all sectors having fine and aesthetic climbing, even the shorter Qui Ayre point is good. Be warned that almost all areas are properly tidal except Spectator's Geo, so some mixing and matching is useful. Also take heed that Bleed It Dry is closer to E4 and Thing Of Dreams really is as hard as it looks and a solid E4 6a. Most of the others seem fine and fair at the grade.
Fiend - 28/Aug/13
Fantastic intro to Orkadian climbing. Needs an update on the routes - lots in the guide not on the web e.g Skull Splitter.
philhilo - 08/May/11
I climbed this stack in 1981 while spending about a month up in Orkney. One of us swam and the others still got wet on a poorly rigged tyrolean !! Great fun, and seemed about HVS 5A following the route first done by Joe Brown as a warm up for the Hoy TV extravaganza.
Chris Rowlands - 19/Sep/07
very nice sandstone
brixton climber - 03/Aug/06