Masson Lees Quarry

Climbs 88 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 318m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.

S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Access notes
On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.

See for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
49From Beer to Eternity7a  
50The Crash Test Dummies7a *6
51Bish, Bash, Bosch6c *8
52Twist of Feet7a+ *5
53Elbowed Out6b+ *15
54Hilti Sound System7a *91
55Forefinger Exercise7a *22
56Piano Fingers7a 7
57Fill it in6a 5
58Final Dregs6a 4
60Wake Up Call6b *98
61Crack o' Dawn5a 128
62Mourning Has Broken6a+ 119
63Slumberland5a 138
64Dawn's Chorus4c 100
65Wake Me Up Before You Go Go4a 75
66Oh To Lie In5a 121
67Sludge Money4a 112
68Five Years and Waiting4a 65
70Auto Pilot6c 29
71Moov Over6b *112
72Have A Cow6a+ *130
73Udderley5c 85
74Featherlie Arete6a 58
75Red And Ribbed For Your Pleasure6c *153
76Who Sat On My Satsuma?6a *449
77A Life Of Grime6a *363
78Fun In The Sun6a+ *334
79End o' Taffs Corner4a *135
80The Chemistry Mates3 *51
81Physics Too6b+ 13
83The Doldrums6b 1
84Hole in the Wall6c+ 1
85Snapping Turtle7a 3
87The Warm-UpM6 *39
88The Tenuous LinkM7 **21
89Sub RosaM10 *15
90Marginal GainsM11 **3
91Sick BoyM9 **13
92Heavens AboveM7+ *5
93Featherlite Arete6a 9
94Substantial LossesM10 ***5
95Substantial GainsM11 ***2
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to
j_clark - 01/Jun/08