Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l

7a © loundsy

Crag features

Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.

S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Approach notes

On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.

See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Very secluded but getting overgrown, quite a lot of seepage as it says in Rockfax. Plenty of loose rock so do be careful! We found the lines of the climbs and the positions of the blots somewhat confusing.
thecruxclimber - 19/Jun/16
Large rockfall last week at the Black Walls/White Walls transition area.
sammo247 - 31/Jul/15
Still a great area to climb! The only down side is there seems to be less people now climbing this area and the quarry is starting to become a bit over grown in places.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to www.sportsclimbs.co.uk
j_clark - 01/Jun/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Wake Up Wall 
2Wake Up Call6b *133
3Crack o' Dawn5a 164
4Mourning Has Broken6a+ 147
5Slumberland5a 178
6Dawn's Chorus4c 131
7Wake Me Up Before You Go Go4a 100
8Oh To Lie In5a 154
9Sludge Money4a 141
10Five Years and Waiting4a 88
 Red Wall 
12Auto Pilot6c 42
13Moov Over6b *156
14Have A Cow6a+ *184
15Udderley5c 133
16Featherlie Arete6a 85
17Red And Ribbed For Your Pleasure6c *212
18Who Sat On My Satsuma?6a *588
19A Life Of Grime6a *481
20Fun In The Sun6a+ *446
21End o' Taffs Corner4a *175
22The Chemistry Mates3 *80
23Physics Too6b+ 16
 Overhanging Wall 
25Reactn6b+ 8
26Java Script7a *3
27In the Pocket6c+ *66
28Pocket Rocket6c *302
29Eye, Eye6b+ *474
30Exorcise7b *46
31Exo67a *229
32Bison Fute7a+ *47
33Pierluigi Galena7a *32
67Last Orders6c *14
68Smear for yer Beer7b 1
69Calling Time7a+ *5
70Lager than Life7b  
71Leffe and Out6b+ 1
72From Beer to Eternity7a 2
73The Crash Test Dummies7a *8
74Bish, Bash, Bosch6c *11
75Twist of Feet7a+ *5
76Elbowed Out6b *25
77Hilti Sound System7a *127
78Forefinger Exercise7a *26
79Piano Fingers7a 8
80Fill it in6a 6
81Final Dregs
-
6a 5
 Right-Hand Quarry Bay 
83The Doldrums6b 1
84Hole in the Wall6c+ 1
85Snapping Turtle7a 3
 Dry Tooling Cave 
87The Warm-UpM6 *68
88The Tenuous LinkM7 **46
89Sub RosaM10 *19
90Marginal GainsM11 **7
91Sick BoyM9 **22
92Heavens AboveM7+ *11
93Featherlite Arete6a 13
94Substantial LossesM10 ***7
95Substantial GainsM11 ***3
96Sub rosa
-
A1 1
97Marginal gainsA2 1
98Band of BrothersM12 ***1

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