Masson Lees Quarry

Climbs 88 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 318m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.

S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Access notes
On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.

See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 WAKE UP WALL  
2Wake Up Call6b *103
3Crack o' Dawn5a 132
4Mourning Has Broken6a+ 121
5Slumberland5a 142
6Dawn's Chorus4c 104
7Wake Me Up Before You Go Go4a 77
8Oh To Lie In5a 124
9Sludge Money4a 118
10Five Years and Waiting4a 70
 RED WALL  
12Auto Pilot6c 29
13Moov Over6b *120
14Have A Cow6a+ *139
15Udderley5c 90
16Featherlie Arete6a 62
17Red And Ribbed For Your Pleasure6c *159
18Who Sat On My Satsuma?6a *472
19A Life Of Grime6a *380
20Fun In The Sun6a+ *351
21End o' Taffs Corner4a *141
22The Chemistry Mates3 *55
23Physics Too6b+ 15
 OVERHANGING WALL  
25Reactn6b+ 8
26Java Script7a *2
27In the Pocket6c+ *45
28Pocket Rocket6c *234
29Eye, Eye6b+ *390
30Exorcise7b *35
31Exo67a *177
32Bison Fute7a+ *35
33Pierluigi Galena7a *32
34Second Class Citizen6c+ 12
35Quatrieme Quartier7a *64
36Handy Borehole6c+ *61
37The Premier Club7a+ *18
38The Masson Chronicles7b *6
39The Pete Clark Diaries7a *8
40Nice One Masson7a *73
41Woof justice7a+ *17
42Grand Theft Auto7a *11
 BLACK WALL  
44The Cows, The Cows7a+ *13
45Masson Accomplished7a *23
46Unveiled7a 9
47Seventh Time Lucky7b *5
48Plucked7b+ *2
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer J_Clark

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to www.sportsclimbs.co.uk
j_clark - 01/Jun/08