Masson Lees Quarry

Climbs 86 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 318m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.

S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Access notes
On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.

See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Guidebooks
Peak Limestone (2012), Peak District: Bouldering (2011), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 OVERHANGING WALL  
2Reactn6b+ 8
3Java Script7a 2
4In the Pocket6c+ *45
5Pocket Rocket6c **219
6Eye, Eye6b+ **367
7Exorcise7a+ *35
8Exo67a **162
9Bison Fute7a+ *34
10Pierluigi Galena7a 32
11Second Class Citizen6c+ *12
12Quatrieme Quartier7a *63
13Handy Borehole6c+ **60
14The Premier Club7a+ **17
15The Masson Chronicles7b *6
16The Pete Clark Diaries7a *8
17Nice One Masson7a **68
18Woof justice7a+ **17
19Grand Theft Auto7a **11
 BLACK WALL  
21The Cows, The Cows7a **13
22Masson Accomplished7a *23
23Unveiled7a 8
24Seventh Time Lucky7b *5
25Plucked7b+ *2
26Never to Rise7a+ *15
27Resurrection7b+ **3
28Long Black Veil7a **59
29Fuck Your Gods7a **26
30Cattle Mutilation Expedition6c+ **55
31Masson Impossible6c 9
32The Numbers Game6b 19
33Lifelong Learning5a 19
34Closing Chapter6b+ *21
35Opening Salvo6b *24
36Last Offence6b+ 6
37Better Luck Next Time Steve6b+ 11
 WHITE WALL  
39Maitre D'hotel6a 15
40Major Dormo5a 15
41Four by Four6c+ 1
42Leap of Fete7a  
43Tapering Out7a 1
44Last Orders6c *10
45Smear for yer Beer7b 1
46Calling Time7a+ 4
47Lager than Life7b  
48Leffe and Out6b+ 1
49From Beer to Eternity7a  
50The Crash Test Dummies7a *6
51Bish, Bash, Bosch6c *8
52Twist of Feet7a+ *5
53Elbowed Out6b 15
54Hilti Sound System7a+ **90
55Forefinger Exercise7a *22
56Piano Fingers7a *7
57Fill it in6a 5
58Final Dregs6a 4
 WAKE UP WALL  
60Wake Up Call6b 87
61Crack o' Dawn5a 119
62Mourning Has Broken6a+ 111
63Slumberland5a 132
64Dawn's Chorus4a 92
65Wake Me Up Before You Go Go4a 73
66Oh To Lie In5a 118
67Sludge Money4a 108
68Five Years and Waiting4a 63
 RED WALL  
70Auto Pilot6c 26
71Moov Over6b 96
72Have A Cow6a+ 114
73Udderley5c 75
74Featherlie Arete6a 53
75Red And Ribbed For Your Pleasure6c 144
76Who Sat On My Satsuma?6a *416
77A Life Of Grime6a 335
78Fun In The Sun6a+ *303
79End o' Taffs Corner4a 130
80The Chemistry Mates3 49
81Physics Too6b+ 13
 RIGHT-HAND QUARRY BAY  
83The Doldrums6b 1
84Hole in the Wall6c+ *1
85Snapping Turtle7a 3
 DRY TOOLING CAVE  
87The Warm-UpM6 *23
88The Tenuous LinkM7 **12
89Sub RosaM10 *5
90Marginal GainsM11 ** 
91Sick BoyM9 **8
92Heavens AboveM7+ *4
93Featherlite Arete6a 6
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer J_Clark

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to www.sportsclimbs.co.uk
j_clark - 01/Jun/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 12/Oct/2012

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