Climbs 48
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces W
The Black Wall © genuinemerchandise
Crag features
One bouldering section on the left-hand side of the bay and a number options for top roping/trad/soloing on the right-hand side of the bay as well as another quality bouldering section. Heading north from the car park there are a series of walls of varying quality that suffer heavily from seepage and a lack of good protection along much of it. First ascents of a few routes were put up in August 2022 on the naming stone outer section using top ropes set up on trad gear. There is lots of potential for some interesting routes but finding anchors is challenging. There are some nice non-tidal slabs where the first routes were climbed and some that are only accessible at low tide. Most of the non-tidal slabs will either not be accessible in a heavy sea or will be wet anyway.
Approach notes
Head through Stromness on the outertown road towards Billia Croo. Take a left down to the EMEC test site and park in the rough area above the buildings by the double gates. Hop a few gates heading left down the track towards the south side of the rocky bay. For the bouldering section on the left side, walk around the base of the cliffs to the south until you see an obvious stack perched on top of a ledge. The wall is on the North East facing side of the crag and is fairly obvious. For the other bouldering section and the trad/top roping routes head to the north side of the bay either along the shore or on top of the cliffs.
Access Advice
There are signs saying restricted access on the track down to the EMEC buildings but these can be ignored if you're just heading to the bay. It's part of a coastal walk that is fairly well used. Just stick to the track and don't go noseying around the buildings. Can be sheep in the field leading down to the parking so remember to be courteous and leave the gates as you found them.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
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