City of Rocks

Climbs 300 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 1862m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features
Simply World Class. Utterly sublime and totally addictive - you'll never want to leave.

All grades of climber are very well served with an even and endless spread of routes. This, for many Brits, is a dream come true. The City of Rocks is a gathering of perhaps 100 or so rock islands of various sizes and heights - one 'island' can provide around 50 distinct routes (there is no time for variations here). It would take a lifetime to climb all the routes. The big new guidebook to it is still a best of. I would estimate there to be double the number of routes here than at Stanage for example.The area is for the vast majority Trad, but even sport route only climbers would need a lifetime to clip all the bolted routes. Although it is extremely popular, it is conversly never busy; you can't queue at the city of rocks there is just so much choice. Therefore everything's maintained and never overgrown, but also there's no queuing - no racing to the start of routes here.

The climbs themselves are really varied - cracks, slabs, chimneys, well proteted, run out - the whole shooting match with most lines around 45-50m in height, though some extend to over 100m. This can make a refreshing change from the multi-pitch demands of many US climbing areas. So even if intending to 'pop in' on a tour, BUY A GUIDEBOOK, you'll want to stay longer.

The 'scene' is very friendly and does not have all that portentious and pretentious big talk of say, Camp 4 in Yosemite. This is 'share a beer' climbing. You'll find the best aspects of US climbing here, whether you climb hard or are beginning.

Approach notes
No fee to enter the City of Rocks park. Camping is done via a self fill in fee station and is spread out throughout the park (rangers do check). It costs $12.72 per site (so if there's a few of you cheap as chips) - what genius added 72c I don't know! The guidebook claims there is no water - this is not true, even during drought there was ample water via several pumps. If the camping in the rocks is full then there is a big campsite just outside the park. There is a store selling reasonably priced provisiuons nearby, as well as 'pure health and goodness' i.e. burgers etc. There is also a hot spring nearby. Dirt roads, but fine for normal cars. Once camped you'll rarely need to drive anywhere.

City of Rocks Idaho, 7th: A Climber's Guide (2004)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1Batwings Direct5.10a **2
2Delay of Game5.8 ***5
3Sudden Pleasure5.11b ***2
4Redtail5.11a ***3
5Spud Meets Hammerhead5.11c **1
6Cairo5.10d 4
7Nairobi5.12a ***1
8Colosus5.10c ***7
9Loch Ness Monster5.11b ***4
10Gemini5.12a ***4
12piccolo matteo5c  
13Parking Lot's Seven5.7 1
14Scream Cheese5.9 5
15Swiss Cheese5.7 4
16New York is Not the City5.9 **1
17Deez Guys5.10a **1
18Rye Crisp5.8 8
19Just Say No5.9 2
20Skyline5.8 ***6
21Reach For the Sky5.9  
22Fall Line5.10b 2
23Bloody Fingers5.10a 5
24Double Vision5.10a 1
25Tennish Anyone5.10a 1
26Wheat Thin5.7 9
27Pygmies Got Stoned5.10a 3
28Twist and Crawl5.8 2
29Pre-Teen Sex5.8  
30Abortions on Parade5.10a  
31Cruel Shoes5.7 1
32Tow Away Zone5.10a 1
33Carol's Crack5.8 4
34Lowe Route5.7  
35Funky Bolt5.10a 2
36Truth is Stranger Than Friction5.10b  
37Mystery Bolter5.9 1
38Chomping at the Bit2  
39Solo Ascent5.7 1
40Donini's Crack5.10c ** 
41Private Idaho5.9 2
42Fall line5.10c  
43Beware of stopping seagulls5.10d  
45Dire Straights5.9  
47Bumblie takes a tumblie5.11a  
48Tribal boundaries5.10a 5
49No Porpoise5.10d  
50Tree Start5.5 *1
51Easy Way Up5.5 *1
52East Side Groove5.6 **1
53Norma's Book5.5 ***2
54She's The Bosch5.11b ***3
55Bomb's Over Tripoli5.12a ***2
56Inspiration Or Perspiration5.12c ***1
57Spud's In The Gym5.12b ***1
58Jetlag5.12b ***1
59Dance To The Music5.11b ***1
60Dressed To Kill5.11d ***1
61Strategic Defense5.11c ***3
62Power Tools5.12b ***1
63Chaos5.12b ***1
64Pigs On The Wing5.11a ***2
65The Drilling Fields5.11b ***2
66Coffee And Cornflakes5.10a ***2
67Tarantula5.12a ***2
68Batwings5.8 ***4
69Raindance5.7 ***1
70Dynamoe Hum5.10c **1
71Too Much Fun5.8 ***1
72Hired Gun5.10a **1
73Bora-Bora5.9 **1
74The Good Stuff5.10a **1
75Roratonga5.10b **1
76New York Is Not The City (direct)5.10a ***1
77Flight of the Bumblie5.10a *1
78Indruding Dike5.7 ***6
79Snack Break Direct5.8 **2
80I can't believe it5.10a ***2
81Driving at Night5.9 **1
82Bikini Candy5.8 **1
83Wonderbread5.10a **1
84Looker5.8 **1
85Bomber5.9 **1
86Skin the Cat5.7 **3
87Animal Cracker5.10a ***3
88Bat Wings5.8 ***1
89Aspen Leaf5.10a **2
90Rollercoaster5.9 **2
91Adolescent Homo Sapien5.7 **1
92Submission5.6 1
93Adolescent Homo5.7 **1
94FDC5.10a *1
95Dimples and Tits5.11a *1
96Nipples and Clits5.10a 1
97Finer Niner5.9 1
98Snack Break5.10a 1
99Pocket Rocket5.9 *1
100Good Times5.7 *1
101Pure Pleasure5.7 *1
102Coyote Corner5.8 1
103Just Another Pretty Face5.10d **1
104Columbian crack5.7 1
105Classic Route(Lost Arrow)5.7 **1
106Theatre Of Shadows5.7 ***1
107Flake Route5.5 **1
108Moderate roue5.7 * 
109Conceptual Reality5.9 ***1
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