Climbs 300
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1862m a.s.l
Faces all

Storm over Elephant Rock, City of Rocks, ID © John Fletcher

Crag features

Simply World Class. Utterly sublime and totally addictive - you'll never want to leave.

All grades of climber are very well served with an even and endless spread of routes. This, for many Brits, is a dream come true. The City of Rocks is a gathering of perhaps 100 or so rock islands of various sizes and heights - one 'island' can provide around 50 distinct routes (there is no time for variations here). It would take a lifetime to climb all the routes. The big new guidebook to it is still a best of. I would estimate there to be double the number of routes here than at Stanage for example.The area is for the vast majority Trad, but even sport route only climbers would need a lifetime to clip all the bolted routes. Although it is extremely popular, it is conversly never busy; you can't queue at the city of rocks there is just so much choice. Therefore everything's maintained and never overgrown, but also there's no queuing - no racing to the start of routes here.

The climbs themselves are really varied - cracks, slabs, chimneys, well proteted, run out - the whole shooting match with most lines around 45-50m in height, though some extend to over 100m. This can make a refreshing change from the multi-pitch demands of many US climbing areas. So even if intending to 'pop in' on a tour, BUY A GUIDEBOOK, you'll want to stay longer.

The 'scene' is very friendly and does not have all that portentious and pretentious big talk of say, Camp 4 in Yosemite. This is 'share a beer' climbing. You'll find the best aspects of US climbing here, whether you climb hard or are beginning.

Approach notes

No fee to enter the City of Rocks park. Camping is done via a self fill in fee station and is spread out throughout the park (rangers do check). It costs $12.72 per site (so if there's a few of you cheap as chips) - what genius added 72c I don't know! The guidebook claims there is no water - this is not true, even during drought there was ample water via several pumps. If the camping in the rocks is full then there is a big campsite just outside the park. There is a store selling reasonably priced provisiuons nearby, as well as 'pure health and goodness' i.e. burgers etc. There is also a hot spring nearby. Dirt roads, but fine for normal cars. Once camped you'll rarely need to drive anywhere.

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Batwings Direct
-
5.10a **2
2Delay of Game
-
5.8 ***7
3Sudden Pleasure
-
5.11b ***2
4Redtail
-
5.11a ***4
5Spud Meets Hammerhead
-
5.11c **1
6Cairo
-
5.10d 4
7Nairobi
-
5.12a ***1
8Colossus5.10c ***9
9Loch Ness Monster
-
5.11b ***4
10Gemini
-
5.12a ***4
11Robinudo
-
5c  
12piccolo matteo
-
5c  
13Parking Lot's Seven
-
5.7 1
14Scream Cheese
-
5.9 5
15Swiss Cheese
-
5.7 5
16New York is Not the City
-
5.9 **1
17Deez Guys
-
5.10a **1
18Rye Crisp
-
5.8 11
19Just Say No
-
5.9 4
20Skyline5.8 ***8
21Reach For the Sky
-
5.9  
22Fall Line
-
5.10b 4
23Bloody Fingers
-
5.10a 7
24Double Vision
-
5.10a 1
25Tennish Anyone
-
5.10a 1
26Wheat Thin
-
5.7 11
27Pygmies Got Stoned
-
5.10a 5
28Twist and Crawl
-
5.8 2
29Pre-Teen Sex
-
5.8  
30Abortions on Parade
-
5.10a  
31Cruel Shoes
-
5.7 1
32Tow Away Zone
-
5.10a 3
33Carol's Crack
-
5.8 4
34Lowe Route
-
5.7  
35Funky Bolt
-
5.10a 4
36Truth is Stranger Than Friction
-
5.10b  
37Mystery Bolter
-
5.9 1
38Chomping at the Bit
-
2  
39Solo Ascent
-
5.7 1
40Donini's Crack
-
5.10c ** 
41Private Idaho
-
5.9 2
42Fall line
-
5.10c  
43Beware of stopping seagulls
-
5.10d  
44Crack
-
5.8  
45Dire Straights
-
5.9  
46Elfworks
-
5.11a  
47Bumblie takes a tumblie
-
5.11a  
48Tribal boundaries
-
5.10a 7
49No Porpoise
-
5.10d  
50Tree Start5.5 *1
51Easy Way Up
-
5.5 *1
52East Side Groove
-
5.6 **1
53Norma's Book
-
5.5 ***2
54She's The Bosch
-
5.11b ***3
55Bomb's Over Tripoli
-
5.12a ***2
56Inspiration Or Perspiration
-
5.12c ***1
57Spud's In The Gym
-
5.12b ***1
58Jetlag
-
5.12b ***1
59Dance To The Music
-
5.11b ***1
60Dressed To Kill
-
5.11d ***1
61Strategic Defense
-
5.11c ***3
62Power Tools
-
5.12b ***1
63Chaos
-
5.12b ***1
64Pigs On The Wing
-
5.11a ***2
65The Drilling Fields
-
5.11b ***2
66Coffee And Cornflakes
-
5.10a ***2
67Tarantula
-
5.12a ***2
68Batwings5.8 ***4
69Raindance
-
5.7 ***1
70Dynamoe Hum
-
5.10c **1
71Too Much Fun
-
5.8 ***3
72Hired Gun5.10a **1
73Bora-Bora
-
5.9 **1
74The Good Stuff
-
5.10a **1
75Roratonga
-
5.10b **1
76New York Is Not The City (direct)5.10a ***3
77Flight of the Bumblie5.10a *1
78Indruding Dike5.7 ***6
79Snack Break Direct
-
5.8 **2
80I can't believe it5.10a ***2
81Driving at Night5.9 **1
82Bikini Candy
-
5.8 **1
83Wonderbread5.10a **1
84Looker5.8 **1
85Bomber5.9 **1
86Skin the Cat5.7 **3
87Animal Cracker
-
5.10a ***5
88Bat Wings
-
5.8 ***1
89Aspen Leaf
-
5.10a **2
90Rollercoaster
-
5.9 **2
91Adolescent Homo Sapien5.7 **1
92Submission
-
5.6 1
93Adolescent Homo
-
5.7 **1
94FDC
-
5.10a *1
95Dimples and Tits
-
5.11a *1
96Nipples and Clits
-
5.10a 1
97Finer Niner
-
5.9 1
98Snack Break
-
5.10a 1
99Pocket Rocket
-
5.9 *1
100Good Times
-
5.7 *1
101Pure Pleasure
-
5.7 *1
102Coyote Corner
-
5.8 1
103Just Another Pretty Face
-
5.10d **2
104Columbian crack
-
5.7 3
105Classic Route(Lost Arrow)
-
5.7 **1
106Theatre Of Shadows
-
5.7 ***1
107Flake Route
-
5.5 **1
108Moderate roue
-
5.7 * 
109Conceptual Reality
-
5.9 ***1
110Hesitation Blues5.7 ***2
111Roadkill5.10b **2
112Thin Slice5.10a ***2
113Pretzel Logic5.10c **2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jimorothy