Hollenderan provides some of the finest Granite climbing to be found anywhere, with exceptional rock quality comparable to that of Yosemite. Many of the routes follow pristine cracks of various sizes though the routes also provide a lot of variety and are generally sustained but very well protected. The climbs are upto 250 metres high and there are some fixed abseil descents in place.
See: http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/hollenderan/hollenderanIntro.php for general information on all of Hollenderan, and: http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/hollenderan/baugen/baugenRoutes.shtml for topo on the Baugen sector routes.
The wonderfully situated climbing cabin provides a perfect base for climbing here. There are two approaches: from the east about 3 hrs of scenic but hard hiking, with the west approach 1.5 - 2.5 hrs depending if you know the way.
Kval¿ya: Selected Climbs (2007)
|2||De Elendige||n6- ***||1|
|10||Svart Hav||n7- ***||2|
|11||Flygende Hollender||n6 ***||2|
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|An almost perfect crag. Every route is sustained on perfect rock (conveniently forgetting the 50 m of choss that protects the start of most routes). Protection is plentiful and dead solid. A must visit for lovers of granite cracks.
Bring one and a half set of nuts with doubles in mid-to-large sizes (#5 to #9; yes you read that correctly! doubles in the *large* sizes!) and 2 set of friends from fingers to wide hands, and possible a fist piece too.
Climbers used to the grades in Lofoten are in for a rude awakening.|
Jonas Wiklund - 31/Jul/09