South Ridge Traverse (D) Climbing up to grade 5+, but mostly grade IV.
South West face has several excellent routes around 350m-400m long, mainly bolted but a small rack is useful. Excellent quality rock and a great location.
The glaciar on approach has retreated significantly but crampons and axe are still recommended.
In guidebook Ecrins Massif Cerces and Queyras Selected Climbs. Alpine Club Guidebook.
Please note that for the descent from the east face and from the traverse the guidebook recommends "descend the couloir for 20m....now make 5 rappels (the 3rd is obliquely L for c20m, the longest c25m) to the glacier." This is misleading. Take 2 ropes. It is 5 rappels of 50m to reach the glacier.
Oisans Nouveau Oisans Savage - Livre Est 2011 (2011)
|SOUTH WEST FACE|
|2||Super Pilou||TD ***||10|
|3||Attaque a main armee||ED1 **|
|4||Unchi Maka||ED5 ***|
|5||Puree D'Astragale||ED1 ***||2|
|6||Jour De Colere||ED1 **||1|
|7||La Diagonale Du Fou||ED1 ***|
|8||Ventre a terre||TD+ ***||4|
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