Danby Crag

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude 197m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Danby crag has sprong from nowt to stake its claim as Moors crag de premiere. It is, quite literally, well good. A large crag it be too, with out-crop-esque to the west and big, fat agressive buttri to the east. Draw de Top aretes, scoops, walls and little finger, long figure masterpieces. It's a crag that loves you, if you don't approach it with a sack full of cliches about what a dump it is. Quite simply:

The best lines you've ever seen everywhere you look!

The crag should be given a day to dry out after heavy rain, but often the exposed buttresses (particularly the aretes) can be dry within hours. Some light brushing may be needed if venturing off the beaten track.

Many of the VDiffs to the west of the crag are quite stiff, but well worthwhile. Chimney and Wall (Severe**), Danby Crack (VS 4c**), Valiant (HVS 5a***) and Osiris (HVS 5a**) are the classic mid-grade routes of the crag and great outings. There is then a bit of a jump in grades, with 'Palma Ham' (E2 6b), 'Stalin' (E3 5b**)'The Jungle drum' (E3 5c**), 'The Polish Diplomat' (E5 6b*), 'the Otter wilderness route' (E6 6b**), 'The Breaking Wheel (E5 6c)' and the Chocolate Moose (E4 6b**) offering a great day out in the mid extremes. The Hypocrisy of Moose (H8 6c***) was the only harder route at the crag to have been led, but has now been joined by 'Howl Psyche' (E7 6b**), Die By The Sword (H7 6c*) and 'The Battle For Tripoli'(E6 6a*) (all on the same buttress). In 2013, Psykovsky's Sequins (H8/9 7a) was added, which bends the mind almost as much as it bends the fingers. 2014 saw the birth of Fly Agaric (H8 7a) and Elysian Fields (E7 6a**).

Perhaps with time a great surge of routes upto and beyond H9 will come, certainly many of the current projects are of a superb quality. The Mono Wall offers an exceptional crux in a dangerous position, whilst the Wangledoodle Wall is relatively safe, but sustained with many hard moves. At the other end of the scale is the blunt arete, which is just one utterly desperate slabby move above a bad fall. Beyond that are the realms of the truly futuristic lines- things like the impossible arete direct, that is incomprehensible at the moment. In any case there are projects in every style really and a lot will be 2 or even 3 stars.

A small amount of good quality bouldering is also available, with more to be developed. A couple of boulder problems of particular note are 'The Chocolqte Moose' and 'The Effervescent Pheasant', which are some of the best problems in the North York Moors.

Access notes
Up to three cars can be parked at the bend on the minor road at GR739068,

otherwise park just inside the gate of the track leading up to Head

House farm.

Turns out the crag is banned till june. Tragedy.

Approach the crag on the bridleway & cross the wall by the stile

above the crag.

See climbonline for details on crag bans.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North East England (2003), North York Moors (1985)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE POLISH JUNGLE  
2King of the SwingersHVS 5a *2
3The Jungle DrumE3 5c **5
4The Polish DiplomatE5 6b *2
 THE EASTERN WALL  
6PowerslaveE6 6a 1
7Ebola TombolaE7 6b 1
 THE GUILLOTINE  
9Barrel Highball Proj.E7 6c?  
10Aerial GullyVD 1
 RADAR  
12OsirisHVS 5a **2
13NephthysE4 6a 1
 BAY OF PIGS  
15StalinE2 5b *2
16RooseveltVS 4c **1
 THE WANGLEDOODLE WALL  
18The Crack ProjectE8 7a? * 
19The Wangledoodle WallE10 7b? ***1
20Impossible Arete ProjectE11 7b? *** 
 OWL BUTTRESS  
22PortcullisVS 5a *3
23Amun-RaHVS 5a **4
24Elysian FieldsE7 6a **2
 TWIN ARETES  
26The Battle For TripoliE6 6a *3
27Howl PsycheE7 6b **1
28The Otter Wilderness RouteE6 6b **2
29The Hypocrisy Of MooseE8 6c ***3
30BastileHS 4b * 
31Die By The SwordE7 6c *2
32The Effervescent Pheasantf6C ***2
 BEACON  
34SodomS 1
35Beacon GrooveD 4
36Valiant Arete Projectnone 6c?  
37ValiantVS 5a **15
38Dance Of The TranceE7 7a 1
39Psykovsky's SequinsE10 7a **3
40Chimney and WallHS 4a **16
41Frowning ButtressE8 7b?  
 THE RAVINE  
43Infinity in a grain of sandE9 6c 3
44Bracken CornerD 1
45HorusHS 4b 2
46TendrilVD 2
47SiloHS 2
48Little GreenhopperS 4b 2
49Creeper WallVD **8
50Pearl JamS 4b 2
51NemesisVS 4c 2
52The Breaking WheelE5 6c 1
53Alcove Wall ProjectE6 6b ** 
54Vulcan Arete ProjectE7 6c? *1
55VulcanVS 4c *1
56Fly AgaricE9 7a **3
57Chocolate MooseE4 6b **7
 RAVINE BOULDERS  
59Palma Hamf6C 2
60Marine Band Traversef6C *1
61Vulcan Bloc Aretef6B+ **2
 THE WESTERN BAYS  
63Western Highball ProjectE5 6c?  
64Anubis ProjectE7 6c **1
 NORTH WEST BUTTRESS  
66GenevieveD 1
67Birch CrackVD 7
68Broken ChimneyHD 5
69Mood IndigoVD **13
70Castle CrackVD 4a 4
71Mussel MemoryVS 4c *2
72Castle RidgeVS 4c **15
73Castle ChimneyD *13
74Isis *HVS 5b ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Great Crag for the Severe leader, the VS/HVS leader; the E4/5 leader and the E7 leader. There are some brill lines on good rock and more ready for the taking. Some routes might need a quick brush, but they tend to clean up quite quickly and it drys very fast, which is odd for a north facer in trees...
Franco Cookson - 29/Sep/11
Once a disappointing crag, lacking in routes over HVS and a general feeling of neglect, it is quickly becoming an extensive and quality crag. Some of the original strong lines; Valiant, Portcullis, Osiris and Vulcan provide excellent climbing and the area is host to many newly developed routes and FA's too. Jungle Drum (E4 6a) and The Hypocrisy of Moose (E7) are brilliant climbs, comparable to many of the classic lines on Gritstone. The crag now boasts a slab climb too, 'Palma Ham' E2 6a which can be bouldered out at a high Font 6c and the nearby 'Chocolate Moose' (E4) can be bouldered at a highball font 6c+. Still plenty to do and the routes are worthy of repeats. Get to it!
Dave Warburton - 16/Aug/11
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These details were last updated on 23/Apr/2014

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