Danby crag has sprong from nowt to stake its claim as Moors crag de premiere. It is, quite literally, well good. A large crag it be too, with out-crop-esque to the west and big, fat agressive buttri to the east. Draw de Top aretes, scoops, walls and little finger, long figure masterpieces. It's a crag that loves you, if you don't approach it with a sack full of cliches about what a dump it is. Quite simply:
The best lines you've ever seen everywhere you look!
The crag should be given a day to dry out after heavy rain, but often the exposed buttresses (particularly the aretes) can be dry within hours. Some light brushing may be needed if venturing off the beaten track.
Many of the VDiffs to the west of the crag are quite stiff, but well worthwhile. Chimney and Wall (Severe**), Danby Crack (VS 4c**), Valiant (HVS 5a***) and Osiris (HVS 5a**) are the classic mid-grade routes of the crag and great outings. There is then a bit of a jump in grades, with 'Palma Ham' (E2 6b), 'Stalin' (E3 5b**)'The Jungle drum' (E3 5c**), 'The Polish Diplomat' (E5 6b*), 'the Otter wilderness route' (E6 6b**), 'The Breaking Wheel (E5 6c)' and the Chocolate Moose (E4 6b**) offering a great day out in the mid extremes. The Hypocrisy of Moose (H8 6c***) was the only harder route at the crag to have been led, but has now been joined by 'Howl Psyche' (E7 6b**), Die By The Sword (H7 6c*) and 'The Battle For Tripoli'(E6 6a*) (all on the same buttress). In 2013, Psykovsky's Sequins (H8/9 7a) was added, which bends the mind almost as much as it bends the fingers. 2014 saw the birth of Fly Agaric (H8 7a) and Elysian Fields (E7 6a**).
Perhaps with time a great surge of routes upto and beyond H9 will come, certainly many of the current projects are of a superb quality. The Mono Wall offers an exceptional crux in a dangerous position, whilst the Wangledoodle Wall is relatively safe, but sustained with many hard moves. At the other end of the scale is the blunt arete, which is just one utterly desperate slabby move above a bad fall. Beyond that are the realms of the truly futuristic lines- things like the impossible arete direct, that is incomprehensible at the moment. In any case there are projects in every style really and a lot will be 2 or even 3 stars.
A small amount of good quality bouldering is also available, with more to be developed. A couple of boulder problems of particular note are 'The Chocolqte Moose' and 'The Effervescent Pheasant', which are some of the best problems in the North York Moors.
Up to three cars can be parked at the bend on the minor road at GR739068,
otherwise park just inside the gate of the track leading up to Head
Turns out the crag is banned till june. Tragedy.
Approach the crag on the bridleway & cross the wall by the stile
above the crag.
See climbonline for details on crag bans.
|THE POLISH JUNGLE|
|2||King of the Swingers||HVS 5a *||2|
|3||The Jungle Drum||E3 5c **||5|
|4||The Polish Diplomat||E5 6b *||2|
|THE EASTERN WALL|
|7||Ebola Tombola||E7 6b||1|
|9||Barrel Highball Proj.||E7 6c?|
|12||Osiris||HVS 5a **||2|
|BAY OF PIGS|
|15||Stalin||E2 5b *||2|
|16||Roosevelt||VS 4c **||1|
|THE WANGLEDOODLE WALL|
|18||The Crack Project||E8 7a? *|
|19||The Wangledoodle Wall||E10 7b? ***||1|
|20||Impossible Arete Project||E11 7b? ***|
|22||Portcullis||VS 5a *||3|
|23||Amun-Ra||HVS 5a **||4|
|24||Elysian Fields||E7 6a **||2|
|26||The Battle For Tripoli||E6 6a *||3|
|27||Howl Psyche||E7 6b **||1|
|28||The Otter Wilderness Route||E6 6b **||2|
|29||The Hypocrisy Of Moose||E8 6c ***||3|
|30||Bastile||HS 4b *|
|31||Die By The Sword||E7 6c *||2|
|32||The Effervescent Pheasant||f6C ***||2|
|36||Valiant Arete Project||none 6c?|
|37||Valiant||VS 5a **||15|
|38||Dance Of The Trance||E7 7a||1|
|39||Psykovsky's Sequins||E10 7a **||3|
|40||Chimney and Wall||HS 4a **||16|
|41||Frowning Buttress||E8 7b?|
|43||Infinity in a grain of sand||E9 6c||3|
|48||Little Greenhopper||S 4b||2|
|49||Creeper Wall||VD **||8|
|50||Pearl Jam||S 4b||2|
|52||The Breaking Wheel||E5 6c||1|
|53||Alcove Wall Project||E6 6b **|
|54||Vulcan Arete Project||E7 6c? *||1|
|55||Vulcan||VS 4c *||1|
|56||Fly Agaric||E9 7a **||3|
|57||Chocolate Moose||E4 6b **||7|
|60||Marine Band Traverse||f6C *||1|
|61||Vulcan Bloc Arete||f6B+ **||2|
|THE WESTERN BAYS|
|63||Western Highball Project||E5 6c?|
|64||Anubis Project||E7 6c **||1|
|NORTH WEST BUTTRESS|
|69||Mood Indigo||VD **||13|
|70||Castle Crack||VD 4a||4|
|71||Mussel Memory||VS 4c *||2|
|72||Castle Ridge||VS 4c **||15|
|73||Castle Chimney||D *||13|
|74||Isis *||HVS 5b **|
|USER FEEDBACK||Login as Existing User to add your comments|
|Great Crag for the Severe leader, the VS/HVS leader; the E4/5 leader and the E7 leader. There are some brill lines on good rock and more ready for the taking. Some routes might need a quick brush, but they tend to clean up quite quickly and it drys very fast, which is odd for a north facer in trees...|
Franco Cookson - 29/Sep/11
|Once a disappointing crag, lacking in routes over HVS and a general feeling of neglect, it is quickly becoming an extensive and quality crag. Some of the original strong lines; Valiant, Portcullis, Osiris and Vulcan provide excellent climbing and the area is host to many newly developed routes and FA's too. Jungle Drum (E4 6a) and The Hypocrisy of Moose (E7) are brilliant climbs, comparable to many of the classic lines on Gritstone. The crag now boasts a slab climb too, 'Palma Ham' E2 6a which can be bouldered out at a high Font 6c and the nearby 'Chocolate Moose' (E4) can be bouldered at a highball font 6c+.
Still plenty to do and the routes are worthy of repeats. Get to it!|
Dave Warburton - 16/Aug/11