Climbs 117
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 40m a.s.l

All or nothing! Rory following the crux of Pink Wall Traverse, Avon Gorge © Chris Sansum

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection often poor. Plenty of multi-starred classics if you've got the bottle. Multi-pitch routes to 80 metres.

Approach notes

Park below. Descent: either by scrambling down a "path" to the left (when facing the crag) or by walking along the cliff top to the right (towards Bristol City Centre), turning right down the zig-zags just before Bridge Valeey Road.

Restricted Access

Pitch 1 of 'Preter' is reportedly in a seriously unstable condition above the initial roofs, with potential to collapse on anyone climbing through it. A better option MAY be to use the first pitch of 'Malbogies' to access the upper pitches of 'Preter' - however climbers should still excercise caution as this pitch has also been known to shed holds.

The Portway (busy road beneath the crags of the Avon Gorge) will be closed to traffic on the following days in 2016:

 

15th May (from 1pm-6pm)

25th September (until 6pm)

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Crooked Deal
-
E4 5c  
2Still Warthogs after all These Years
-
E3 5c  
3Hermann Buhlshit
-
E2 6b  
4House of Cards
-
E1 5a 1
5Nice Girls Don't Explode
-
E2 5c 3
6Ace High
-
E1 5a  
7Suicide Machine
-
E2 5c  
8A Room Full of Mirrors
-
HVS 5a 16
9Dire Straits
-
E3 6a *14
10ChokerE1 5a **169
11Deep Sleep
-
E3 6a *4
12The Last Gasp
-
E2 5c *79
13The Ultra-direct
-
E4 6a 4
14Mid-life Meltdown
-
E5 6a/b 1
15The CorpseHVS 5a **251
16Zombogies DirectE1 5b **101
17The Poacher
-
E3 5c 5
18Maladroit
-
E1 5b 27
19The LichHVS 5a **252
20The MalE3 5c **35
21The Writing on the Wall
-
E3 5c 10
22Malediction
-
E4 6b  
23Malambo
-
E2 5c *35
24CapriceE3 5c *12
25BonbogiesHVS 5a **173
26The Bogyman
-
E2 5c *41
27Maltravers LeftE1 5a 18
28Old Pretenders
-
E2 5b *29
29Troillus Left-HandE3 5c *12
30Troillus Direct
-
E2 5c *15
31TroillusHVS 5b **12
32The Beard of Ffoeg Nosam
-
E2 5b *23
33The Beard
-
E4 5c 2
34Maladjusted
-
E3 5c  
35Maltravers
-
E1 5a **78
36Link Pink7b+ 3
37Mason's folly
-
E4 6a 1
38The Shockin' Pink
-
E6 6c *1
39Malpractice
-
HVS 5a 37
40Pink GinsaneE6 6b ***6
41Pink InsaneE6 6c  
42Think PinkE3 6a ***113
43A Profusion of Pink
-
E6 6b *3
44Reunion
-
E4 5b/c 1
45Little Fluffy Clouds
-
E5 5c 1
46Krapp's Last TapeE3 5b ***115
47Baconconstrictor
-
E5 6a 4
48Main Wall EliminateE4 6a **48
49White Not Pink
-
E3 6a 1
50Pilot Error
-
E2 5b 1
51Central WallE4 6a ***49
52Atmosfears
-
E5 6a ***11
53Caught under Cloud Nine
-
E6 6b * 
54Malwhatsit
-
E1 5a **38
55MalbogiesHVS 5a ***556
56The Thin Air
-
E6 6a 2
57The Murky Way
-
E2 5a 3
58The PreterE2 5b ***83
59Malicious
-
E2 5b  
60Hefalump TrapE4 5c 4
61Suck It and SeeE3 6a  
62Dyson with Death
-
E3 5c  
63The Electric Orgasm
-
E3 5c *10
64Malfunction
-
E3 5b  
65Malady
-
E2 5c 3
66Reliable Rich Meets the Red Hot Rancho
-
E3 6a  
67MercavityE2 5b *18
68DepravityE1 5b *63
69Fillcavity
-
E3 5b 1
70Malkrappity
-
E3 5c  
71Coup d'EtatE6 6b *3
72Comedy of Errors
-
E5 5c *2
73SteppenwolfE3 5c **45
74Born to Be Riled
-
E4 6b  
75KampfE4 6a 3
76Magic Theatre
-
E5 6a **11
77Shutup and Dance
-
E5 6a  
78Kranz
-
E2 5c *18
79Space Invader
-
E4 5c  
80Space Invader Direct
-
E5 6a  
81Uncut
-
E6 6c  
82Bristol UnillustratedE6 6b *1
83Showbiz
-
E6 6c  
84The Evening LightE3 5b 12
85Bees' Nest
-
HVS 5a  
86XON XOFFE3 6c  
87Goth
-
E2 5b *9
88Polar ReachesE6 6c ** 
89Timespan
-
E6 6b  
90Lich GatesE2 5c ***144
91Lich Gates Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 2
92PerylE4 6a ***68
93The White Elephant
-
E4 5c *6
94ChangelingE5 6b ***7
95Oceans of Taboo
-
E4 5c 1
96Pink Wall DirectE2 5c **71
97DrangE3 5b *12
98Dyno Sores
-
E4 6a 1
99Dead Dog Soup
-
E3 6a 1
100The Equator
-
E2 5b **18
101Crossing the Dateline
-
E3 6a * 
102Pink Wall TraverseHVS 5a **132
103The Pedantic Pituitary Gland
-
HVS 5a  
104Grumphuttock's Lament
-
E3 5c 1
105Cumming Round the Mountain
-
E3 5c  
106Side Affects
-
E5 6a * 
107The Blue Horizon
-
E2 5c *1
108Malarkey
-
E2 5c  
109Mud Slide Slim
-
E1 5b 1
110Wombling Free
-
E2 5c  
111Quality StreetE3 5c * 
112Bog Wall Traversenone 5c 19
113Venereal
-
HS  
114Pink Wall Indirect
-
E3 5c ***5
115DynosaurV4 3
116Doorway mantelshelfV2 2
117Bog Wall Backside Traversef5+ 2

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