Climbs 158
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Making use of some very tiny holds. © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Approach notes

Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)

Access Advice

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Southern Outcrop 
2Left AreteS 4b 52
3Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...E2 5c 3
4Learner RouteD 3b 122
5Variation Start 2S 4c 35
6Variation StartVD 4b *120
7Moss TrapE1 5a 23
8Half Route Half Boulder ProblemE3 5c 17
9Destruction in a Granite Settingf7B **2
10Central CornerHVS 5b 50
11DebutanteE3 6a *17
12OldboyHVS 5b 22
13Corner SeatHS 4b 40
14The Garden GateHVS 5a *52
15Garden WallHS 4c 59
16Scot FreeE1 5c 5
17Right AreteHS 4b 13
 Bay Entry 
19Chocolate HobnobHVS 5a 3
20Half Man Half BiscuitE3 6a 6
21Petherwin Brothers and a SisterE1 6a 10
22Dwarfs DreamE1 5c 2
23Thumb Sparg TraverseV4  
24Problem 2V1 3
25Problem 3 Overhanging AreteV1 4
26Problem 4V0 4
27Snatch
-
HVS 5b 2
28Not a Patch on Harry PatchHVS 5b *3
29Family GuyVS 5a 3
 The Bay 
31Fingerbob
-
E2 5c  
32Watchman
-
E3 5c  
33Crucifier7a+ 9
34Cosmic Joker
-
7b  
35Pooh Pooh
-
E3 5b 2
36Sheep Shit ShooterE3 6a  
37Sidekick
-
VS 4c 2
 Western Outcrop (Left side) 
39Rabbit Arete
-
VS 4c 5
40Feline Adventures6b+ 54
4133 Chillies6b 14
42Daisy's Flapjack6a+ 13
43Foxglove AreteVD 4b 5
44Stonewood6a+ 8
45Volkers VisitS 4b 7
 Agent Provocatuer Wall 
47Gay Orange BagVD 5
48West Point6b 54
49Potential Energy6c+ *48
50Micro Generator6c 3
51Double Agent7a+ **78
52Double Trouble
-
E3 6a 6
53Agent Provocateur7b *38
54Trouble with LichenE3 6a **46
55Corner Route
-
S 4a 36
56Space Hopper6c+ *9
57Hopscotch7a *1
58Sweet Surrender7c * 
59Tag7b **5
 Westren Outcrop (Central Bay) 
61Mike's Route
-
S 4a 9
62Hard WonE2 5c 2
63NocturneVS 4c 15
64Central RouteVS 4c *44
65Second Class Return
-
E2 5c 7
66One Way Ticket
-
E2 5b 3
67Chance
-
E4 5c 2
68Direct RouteVS 4a *46
69Backbreaker
-
VD 12
70Sentry Box
-
S 4a 10
 Main Face 
72Long Shanks Leap
-
E1 5b 2
73Steps Arete
-
S 4a 38
74The Purple RevracHS 4b *160
75Heart of Darkness
-
E2 5b 3
76Blackberry Wall
-
HVS 5b 3
77Birdline
-
E1 5c  
78"Our Carver"
-
7c  
79Rampage7b ***11
80Hot Lava
-
7c  
81Simanon DirectHVS 4c **98
82Simian
-
E3 5c 2
83Simanon direct directE1 5c 5
84Mecca
-
HVS 5a *16
85Facing MeccaE2 5b 3
86The Trampoline
-
HVS 4c 16
87Problem 8 Gila's Wall
-
V0 4
88Problem 9 Merlin's Chimney
-
VB 4
89Problem 13 Left side of Right Arete
-
V2 3
90Lesser Men6a 7
91Fair one7a 4
92Silva Grey the Other-wayE4 6a 2
93Silva Gray
-
E2 6a *3
94Black Sabbath
-
E5 6a a2  
95Bored of wring
-
E5 6a  
96Le Tour
-
7a  
97Dead Exit
-
E4 6a *4
98Traditional Values?E3 5c  
99Eyefull TowerE2 6a ***50
100Eyefull Tower (Original Route)HVS 5a/a2 ***17
101High NoonE2 5c *11
102High Noon/MauritiusE3 6a ***1
103Mauritius
-
7b  
104Black PantherE5 6b a3 **1
105Super IndirectE4 6a a2  
106Talking Heads7b 3
107Real live Wire7b 2
108Psycokiller7c+ ***6
109Wrings of Change7c *2
110Wrings of Change Extension7c *1
111Special Radius
-
A3  
 The Fortress walls 
113Rene
-
E4 6a 5
114Warrior6c **107
115Friend or Foe?7a+ **13
116Slingshot7b+ **5
117Special Offer
-
E3 6a 4
118Bump StartE3 5c  
119ScapegoatS 4a 13
120Pinnacle RouteVD 9
121Hypodermic Like ThisHS 4b *9
122Fortress Indirect
-
S 4a 5
123Hypothermic Like ThatHVS 5a **4
124Fortress Direct
-
VD 7
125Anthony
-
VS 4c 4
126Traitor's Gate
-
HS 4b *51
127Famous Last WordsE1 5b  
128Khyber WallE2 5c **34
129Khyber Pass7a *2
 Orange Slab 
131Young Hunting
-
E1 5b 3
132Sarah LouiseE3 5b/c 2
133Juliet's BalconyHVS 5a *55
134The Crystal Maze
-
E3 5c  
135Gone To Pot6c+ 2
136Beast of Revelation
-
E1 4c 5
137Man of Double Deed
-
HS 4b 24
138Lemon TreeHS 4b **62
 Lemon Tree Slabs 
140Unnamed
-
S 4b 22
141The Vandal
-
E3 6a 11
142GorstHVS 5a 2
143PeterVD *108
144FiguzziHS 4b **152
145Star FoxHVS 5a *33
146ThorndykeHS 4b 25
147Mr. Kensuke MiyagiE1 6a 7
148Jane
-
D 28
149SueM 31
150Sunset AreteVS 4c 149
151Cheese Disease
-
E1 5a 28
152P.M.C.
-
E1 5a 8
153Risky
-
HS 4b 11
154Forty FiveVD 4c 24
155Wall FlowerHS 4b 8
156Barny Rubles Risky FinishE1 5b **3
157SarahVD 4a 18
 The Traverses 
159Gather Darkness
-
E3 5c **2
160Merlin's Traverse
-
D 3
161CombineD 4a 3
162Reborn AgainIII **1
 Boulders ont More 
164Cheesewring bouldersVB **2
165Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7V3 2
166Problem 15V0- 3
167Problem 24VB 2
168Problem 25VB 2
169Problem 14V2 2
170Garden Wall DirectE1 5c 3

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