Cheesewring Quarry

Climbs 156 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Access notes
Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Left AreteS 4b 50
3Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...E2 5c 2
4Learner RouteD 3b 119
5Variation Start 2S 4c 31
6Variation StartVD 4b *113
7Moss TrapE1 5a 22
8Half Route Half Boulder ProblemE3 5c 16
9Destruction in a Granite Settingf7B **1
10Central CornerHVS 5b 45
11DebutanteE3 6a *16
12OldboyHVS 5b 21
13Corner SeatHS 4b 37
14The Garden GateHVS 5a *47
15Garden WallHS 4c 55
16Scot FreeE1 5c 2
17Right AreteHS 4b 10
19Chocolate HobnobHVS 5a 2
20Half Man Half BiscuitE3 6a 6
21Petherwin Brothers and a SisterE1 6a 8
22Dwarfs DreamE1 5c 1
23Thumb Sparg TraverseV4  
24Problem 2V1 5c 3
25Problem 3 Overhanging AreteV1 5c 4
26Problem 4V0 5b 4
27SnatchHVS 5b 1
28Not a Patch on Harry PatchHVS 5b *2
29Family GuyVS 5a 2
31FingerbobE2 5c  
32WatchmanE3 5c  
33Crucifier7a+ 4
34Cosmic Joker7b  
35Pooh PoohE3 5b 1
36Sheep Shit ShooterE3 6a  
37SidekickVS 4c 1
39Rabbit AreteVS 4c 4
40Feline Adventures6b+ 47
4133 Chillies6b 12
42Daisy's FlapjackF6a+ 5b 10
43Foxglove AreteVD 4b 4
44Stonewood6a+ 6
45Volkers VisitS 4b 6
47Gay Orange BagVD 4
48West Point6b 49
49Potential Energy6c+ *38
50Micro Generator6c 2
51Double Agent7a+ **61
52Double TroubleE3 6a 5
53Agent Provocateur7b *35
54Trouble with LichenE3 6a **42
55Corner RouteS 4a 33
56Space Hopper6c+ *8
57Hopscotch7a *1
58Sweet Surrender7c * 
59Tag7b **5
61Mike's RouteS 4a 8
62Hard WonE2 5c 1
63NocturneVS 4c 14
64Central RouteVS 4c *40
65Second Class ReturnE2 5c 6
66One Way TicketE2 5b 2
67ChanceE4 5c 1
68Direct RouteVS 4a *43
69BackbreakerVD 10
70Sentry BoxS 4a 8
72Long Shanks LeapE1 5b 1
73Steps AreteS 4a 35
74The Purple RevracHS 4b *150
75Heart of DarknessE2 5b 1
76Blackberry WallHVS 5b 1
77BirdlineE1 5c  
78"Our Carver"7c  
79Rampage7b ***9
80Hot Lava7c  
81Simanon DirectHVS 4c **88
82SimianE3 5c 1
83Simanon direct directE1 5c 2
84MeccaHVS 5a *11
85Facing MeccaE2 5b 2
86The TrampolineHVS 4c 15
87Problem 8 Gila's WallV0 5a 4
88Problem 9 Merlin's ChimneyVB 4b 4
89Problem 13 Left side of Right AreteV2 5c 3
90Lesser Men6a 5
91Fair one7a 3
92Silva Grey the Other-wayE4 6a 1
93Silva GrayE2 6a *2
94Black SabbathE5 6a a2  
95Bored of wringE5 6a  
96Le Tour7a  
97Dead ExitE4 6a *3
98Traditional Values?E3 5c  
99Eyefull TowerE2 6a ***40
100Eyefull Tower (Original Route)HVS 5a/a2 ***14
101High NoonE3 6a ***6
103Black PantherE5 6b a3 **1
104Super IndirectE4 6a a2  
105Talking Heads7b 2
106Real live Wire7b 1
107Psycokiller7c+ ***5
108Wrings of Change7c *1
109Wrings of Change Extension7c *1
110Special RadiusA3  
112ReneE4 6a 4
113Warrior6c **91
114Friend or Foe?7a+ **10
115Slingshot7b+ **2
116Special OfferE3 6a 3
117Bump StartE3 5c  
118ScapegoatS 4a 12
119Pinnacle RouteVD 8
120Hypodermic Like ThisHS 4b *8
121Fortress IndirectS 4a 4
122Hypothermic Like ThatHVS 5a **3
123Fortress DirectVD 6
124AnthonyVS 4c 3
125Traitor's GateHS 4b *46
126Famous Last WordsE1 5b  
127Khyber WallE2 5c **28
128Khyber Pass7a *1
130Young HuntingE1 5b 2
131Sarah LouiseE3 5b/c 1
132Juliet's BalconyHVS 5a *50
133The Crystal MazeE3 5c  
134Gone To Pot6c+  
135Beast of RevelationE1 4c 3
136Man of Double DeedHS 4b 19
137Lemon TreeHS 4b **55
139UnnamedS 4b 20
140The VandalE3 6a 10
141GorstHVS 5a 1
142PeterVD *105
143FiguzziHS 4b **135
144Star FoxHVS 5a *31
145ThorndykeHS 4b 20
146Mr. Kensuke MiyagiE1 6a 6
147JaneD 26
148SueM 30
149Sunset AreteVS 4c 129
150Cheese DiseaseE1 5a 27
151P.M.C.E1 5a 7
152RiskyHS 4b 10
153Forty FiveVD 4c 21
154Wall FlowerHS 4b 6
155Barny Rubles Risky FinishE1 5b **2
156SarahVD 4a 15
158Gather DarknessE3 5c **1
159Merlin's TraverseD 2
160CombineD 4a 2
161Reborn AgainIII **1
163Cheesewring bouldersVB all **1
164Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7V3 6a 1
165Problem 15V0- 4c 2
166Problem 24VB 4b 1
167Problem 25VB 4a 1
168Problem 14 *V2 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mosseee

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03