Cheesewring Quarry

Climbs 158 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Approach notes
Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)


Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SOUTHERN OUTCROP  
2Left AreteS 4b 51
3Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...E2 5c 2
4Learner RouteD 3b 121
5Variation Start 2S 4c 33
6Variation StartVD 4b *118
7Moss TrapE1 5a 22
8Half Route Half Boulder ProblemE3 5c 16
9Destruction in a Granite Settingf7B **1
10Central CornerHVS 5b 48
11DebutanteE3 6a *16
12OldboyHVS 5b 21
13Corner SeatHS 4b 38
14The Garden GateHVS 5a *49
15Garden WallHS 4c 58
16Scot FreeE1 5c 3
17Right AreteHS 4b 12
 BAY ENTRY  
19Chocolate HobnobHVS 5a 2
20Half Man Half BiscuitE3 6a 6
21Petherwin Brothers and a SisterE1 6a 9
22Dwarfs DreamE1 5c 1
23Thumb Sparg TraverseV4  
24Problem 2V1 5c 3
25Problem 3 Overhanging AreteV1 5c 4
26Problem 4V0 5b 4
27SnatchHVS 5b 1
28Not a Patch on Harry PatchHVS 5b *2
29Family GuyVS 5a 2
 THE BAY  
31FingerbobE2 5c  
32WatchmanE3 5c  
33Crucifier7a+ 7
34Cosmic Joker7b  
35Pooh PoohE3 5b 1
36Sheep Shit ShooterE3 6a  
37SidekickVS 4c 1
 WESTERN OUTCROP (LEFT SIDE)  
39Rabbit AreteVS 4c 4
40Feline Adventures6b+ 50
4133 Chillies6b 12
42Daisy's FlapjackF6a+ 5b 11
43Foxglove AreteVD 4b 4
44Stonewood6a+ 6
45Volkers VisitS 4b 6
 AGENT PROVOCATUER WALL  
47Gay Orange BagVD 4
48West Point6b 51
49Potential Energy6c+ *43
50Micro Generator6c 2
51Double Agent7a+ **70
52Double TroubleE3 6a 5
53Agent Provocateur7b *36
54Trouble with LichenE3 6a **45
55Corner RouteS 4a 35
56Space Hopper6c+ *8
57Hopscotch7a *1
58Sweet Surrender7c * 
59Tag7b **5
 WESTREN OUTCROP (CENTRAL BAY)  
61Mike's RouteS 4a 8
62Hard WonE2 5c 1
63NocturneVS 4c 14
64Central RouteVS 4c *42
65Second Class ReturnE2 5c 6
66One Way TicketE2 5b 2
67ChanceE4 5c 1
68Direct RouteVS 4a *43
69BackbreakerVD 11
70Sentry BoxS 4a 10
 MAIN FACE  
72Long Shanks LeapE1 5b 1
73Steps AreteS 4a 37
74The Purple RevracHS 4b *157
75Heart of DarknessE2 5b 2
76Blackberry WallHVS 5b 2
77BirdlineE1 5c  
78"Our Carver"7c  
79Rampage7b ***9
80Hot Lava7c  
81Simanon DirectHVS 4c **93
82SimianE3 5c 1
83Simanon direct directE1 5c 4
84MeccaHVS 5a *15
85Facing MeccaE2 5b 2
86The TrampolineHVS 4c 15
87Problem 8 Gila's WallV0 5a 4
88Problem 9 Merlin's ChimneyVB 4b 4
89Problem 13 Left side of Right AreteV2 5c 3
90Lesser Men6a 6
91Fair one7a 3
92Silva Grey the Other-wayE4 6a 1
93Silva GrayE2 6a *2
94Black SabbathE5 6a a2  
95Bored of wringE5 6a  
96Le Tour7a  
97Dead ExitE4 6a *3
98Traditional Values?E3 5c  
99Eyefull TowerE2 6a ***45
100Eyefull Tower (Original Route)HVS 5a/a2 ***16
101High NoonE2 5c *7
102High Noon/MauritiusE3 6a *** 
103Mauritius7b  
104Black PantherE5 6b a3 **1
105Super IndirectE4 6a a2  
106Talking Heads7b 2
107Real live Wire7b 1
108Psycokiller7c+ ***6
109Wrings of Change7c *1
110Wrings of Change Extension7c *1
111Special RadiusA3  
 THE FORTRESS WALLS  
113ReneE4 6a 4
114Warrior6c **103
115Friend or Foe?7a+ **12
116Slingshot7b+ **3
117Special OfferE3 6a 3
118Bump StartE3 5c  
119ScapegoatS 4a 12
120Pinnacle RouteVD 8
121Hypodermic Like ThisHS 4b *8
122Fortress IndirectS 4a 4
123Hypothermic Like ThatHVS 5a **3
124Fortress DirectVD 6
125AnthonyVS 4c 3
126Traitor's GateHS 4b *47
127Famous Last WordsE1 5b  
128Khyber WallE2 5c **33
129Khyber Pass7a *1
 ORANGE SLAB  
131Young HuntingE1 5b 2
132Sarah LouiseE3 5b/c 1
133Juliet's BalconyHVS 5a *53
134The Crystal MazeE3 5c  
135Gone To Pot6c+ 1
136Beast of RevelationE1 4c 4
137Man of Double DeedHS 4b 23
138Lemon TreeHS 4b **56
 LEMON TREE SLABS  
140UnnamedS 4b 21
141The VandalE3 6a 10
142GorstHVS 5a 1
143PeterVD *106
144FiguzziHS 4b **144
145Star FoxHVS 5a *31
146ThorndykeHS 4b 24
147Mr. Kensuke MiyagiE1 6a 6
148JaneD 26
149SueM 30
150Sunset AreteVS 4c 143
151Cheese DiseaseE1 5a 27
152P.M.C.E1 5a 7
153RiskyHS 4b 10
154Forty FiveVD 4c 21
155Wall FlowerHS 4b 6
156Barny Rubles Risky FinishE1 5b **2
157SarahVD 4a 16
 THE TRAVERSES  
159Gather DarknessE3 5c **1
160Merlin's TraverseD 2
161CombineD 4a 2
162Reborn AgainIII **1
 BOULDERS ONT MORE  
164Cheesewring bouldersVB all **1
165Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7V3 6a 1
166Problem 15V0- 4c 2
167Problem 24VB 4b 1
168Problem 25VB 4a 1
169Problem 14V2 6a 1
170Garden Wall DirectE1 5c 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03