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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SX 258723 (OS Landranger #201)

Cheesewring Quarry

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 148 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Weather forecast

Today	Mon	Tue	Wed	Thu

Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

	Climb name	Grade	x

	SOUTHERN OUTCROP
2	Left Arete	S 4b	44
3	Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...	E2 5c	1
4	Learner Route	D 3b	94
5	Variation Start 2	S 4c	24
6	Variation Start	VD 4b *	88
7	Moss Trap	E1 5a	20
8	Half Route Half Boulder Problem	E3 5c	15
9	Destruction in a Granite Setting *	f7A+ **	1
10	Central Corner	HVS 5b	36
11	Debutante	E3 6a *	12
12	Oldboy	HVS 5b	11
13	Corner Seat	HS 4b	25
14	The Garden Gate	HVS 5a *	32
15	Garden Wall	HS 4c	45
16	Scot Free	E1 5c	1
17	Right Arete	HS 4b	7
	BAY ENTRY
19	Chocolate Hobnob	HVS 5a
20	Half Man Half Biscuit	E3 6a	3
21	Petherwin Brothers and a Sister	E1 6a	4
22	Dwarfs Dream	E1 5c
23	Thumb Sparg Traverse	V4
24	Snatch	HVS 5b
25	Not a Patch on Harry Patch	HVS 5b *	2
26	Family Guy	VS 5a	2
	THE BAY
28	Fingerbob	E2 5c
29	Watchman	E3 5c
30	Crucifier	7a+
31	Cosmic Joker	7b
32	Pooh Pooh	E3 5b	1
33	Sheep Shit Shooter	E3 6a
34	Sidekick	VS 4c	1
	WESTERN OUTCROP (LEFT SIDE)
36	Rabbit Arete	VS 4c	3
37	Feline Adventures	6b+	35
38	33 Chillies	6b	8
39	Daisy's Flapjack	E1 5b	3
40	Foxglove Arete	VD 4b	3
41	Stonewood	6a+	3
42	Volkers Visit	S 4b	5
	AGENT PROVOCATUER WALL
44	Gay Orange Bag	VD	1
45	West Point	6b	35
46	Potential Energy	6c+	30
47	Micro Generator	6c	2
48	Double Agent	7a ***	38
49	Double Trouble	E3 6a	5
50	Agent Provocateur	7b **	28
51	Trouble with Lichen	E3 6a *	37
52	Corner Route	S 4a	24
53	Space Hopper	6c+ *	7
54	Hopscotch	7a *	1
55	Sweet Surrender	7c *
56	Tag	7b **	5
	WESTREN OUTCROP (CENTRAL BAY)
58	Mike's Route	S 4a	7
59	Hard Won	E2 5c	1
60	Nocturne	VS 4c	9
61	Central Route	VS 4c *	30
62	Second Class Return	E2 5c	5
63	One Way Ticket	E2 5b	1
64	Chance	E4 5c
65	Direct Route	S 4a	36
66	Backbreaker	VD	6
67	Sentry Box	S 4a	7
	MAIN FACE
69	Long Shanks Leap	E1 5b	1
70	Steps Arete	S 4a	22
71	The Purple Revrac	HS 4b **	109
72	Heart of Darkness	E2 5b
73	Blackberry Wall	HVS 5b
74	Birdline	E1 5c
75	"Our Carver"	7c
76	Rampage	7b+ ***	6
77	Hot Lava	7c
78	Simanon Direct	HVS 4c **	62
79	Simian	E3 5c	1
80	Simanon direct direct	E1 5c	2

	Climb name	Grade	x

81	Mecca	HVS 5a *	6
82	Facing Mecca	E2 5b	2
83	The Trampoline	HVS 4c	10
84	Lesser Men	6a	1
85	Fair one	7a	3
86	Silva Grey the Other-way	E4 6a	1
87	Silva Gray	E2 6a *	2
88	Black Sabbath	E5 6a a2
89	Bored of wring	E5 6a
90	Le Tour	7a
91	Dead Exit	E4 6a *	2
92	Traditional Values?	E3 5c
93	Eyefull Tower	E3 6a **	35
94	Eyefull Tower (Original Route)	HVS 5a/a2 ***	11
95	High Noon	E2 5c *	6
96	Mauritius	7b
97	Black Panther	E5 6b a3 **	1
98	Super Indirect	E4 6a a2
99	Real live Wire	7b	1
100	Psycokiller	7c+ ***	3
101	Wrings of Change	7c *
102	Special Radius	A3
	THE FORTRESS WALLS
104	Rene	E4 6a	4
105	Warrior	6c+ ***	61
106	Friend or Foe?	7a+ **	8
107	Slingshot	7b+ **	2
108	Special Offer	E3 6a	3
109	Bump Start	E3 5c
110	Scapegoat	S 4a	6
111	Pinnacle Route	VD	6
112	Hypodermic Like This	HS 4b *	4
113	Fortress Indirect	S 4a	4
114	Hypothermic Like That	HVS 5a **	3
115	Fortress Direct	VD	6
116	Anthony	VS 4c	3
117	Traitor's Gate	HS 4b *	36
118	Famous Last Words	E1 5b
119	Khyber Wall	E2 5c ***	24
120	Khyber Pass	7a *	1
	ORANGE SLAB
122	Young Hunting	E1 5b	1
123	Sarah Louise	E3 5b/c
124	Juliet's Balcony	HVS 5a	38
125	The Crystal Maze	E3 5c
126	Gone To Pot	6c+
127	Beast of Revelation	E1 4c	2
128	Man of Double Deed	HS 4b	16
129	Lemon Tree	HS 4b **	42
	LEMON TREE SLABS
131	Unnamed	S 4b	17
132	The Vandal	E3 6a	9
133	Gorst	HVS 5a	1
134	Peter	VD	77
135	Figuzzi	HS 4b **	94
136	Star Fox	HVS 5a *	21
137	Thorndyke	HS 4b	14
138	Mr. Kensuke Miyagi	E1 6a	3
139	Jane	D	17
140	Sue	M	25
141	Sunset Arete	VS 4c	92
142	Cheese Disease	E1 5a	21
143	P.M.C.	E1 5a	7
144	Risky	HS 4b	10
145	Forty Five	VD 4c	18
146	Wall Flower	HS 4b	6
147	Barny Rubles Risky Finish	E1 5b **	2
148	Sarah	VD 4a	14
	THE TRAVERSES
150	Gather Darkness	E3 5c **	1
151	Reborn Again	III **	1
152	Cheesewring boulders *	VB all **	1
153	Problem 8 Gila's Wall *	V0 5a	1
154	Problem 9 Merlin's Chimney *	VB 4b	1
155	Problem 13 Left side of Right Arete *	V2 5c	1
156	Merlin's Traverse *	D	1
157	Combine *	D 4a	1
158	Problem 24 *	VB 4b	1
159	Problem 25 *	VB 4a	1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Tavistock, DEVON
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Access notes
Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer mosseee

USER FEEDBACK

An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03

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