View larger mapGrid Ref SX 258723 (OS Landranger #201)

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These details were last updated on 12/May/2010

Cheesewring Quarry

Cornwall, ENGLAND

Climbs 155 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Access notes
Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

1.9mm rain
Mainly cloudy
19 °C
12 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
18 °C
17 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
15 °C
18 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
13 °C
15 kph

0.1mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
12 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

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 Climb nameGradex
 SOUTHERN OUTCROP  
2Left AreteS 4b 50
3Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...E2 5c 1
4Learner RouteD 3b 117
5Variation Start 2S 4c 30
6Variation StartVD 4b *108
7Moss TrapE1 5a 22
8Half Route Half Boulder ProblemE3 5c 16
9Destruction in a Granite Settingf7B **1
10Central CornerHVS 5b 43
11DebutanteE3 6a *16
12OldboyHVS 5b 21
13Corner SeatHS 4b 36
14The Garden GateHVS 5a *44
15Garden WallHS 4c 55
16Scot FreeE1 5c 2
17Right AreteHS 4b 10
 BAY ENTRY  
19Chocolate HobnobHVS 5a 1
20Half Man Half BiscuitE3 6a 6
21Petherwin Brothers and a SisterE1 6a 8
22Dwarfs DreamE1 5c 1
23Thumb Sparg TraverseV4  
24Problem 2V1 5c 3
25Problem 3 Overhanging AreteV1 5c 4
26Problem 4V0 5b 4
27SnatchHVS 5b 1
28Not a Patch on Harry PatchHVS 5b *2
29Family GuyVS 5a 2
 THE BAY  
31FingerbobE2 5c  
32WatchmanE3 5c  
33Crucifier7a+ 4
34Cosmic Joker7b  
35Pooh PoohE3 5b 1
36Sheep Shit ShooterE3 6a  
37SidekickVS 4c 1
 WESTERN OUTCROP (LEFT SIDE)  
39Rabbit AreteVS 4c 4
40Feline Adventures6b+ 47
4133 Chillies6b 12
42Daisy's FlapjackF6a+ 5b 9
43Foxglove AreteVD 4b 4
44Stonewood6a+ 6
45Volkers VisitS 4b 6
 AGENT PROVOCATUER WALL  
47Gay Orange BagVD 2
48West Point6b 48
49Potential Energy6c+ 37
50Micro Generator6c 2
51Double Agent7a ***60
52Double TroubleE3 6a 5
53Agent Provocateur7b **35
54Trouble with LichenE3 6a *42
55Corner RouteS 4a 31
56Space Hopper6c+ *8
57Hopscotch7a *1
58Sweet Surrender7c * 
59Tag7b **5
 WESTREN OUTCROP (CENTRAL BAY)  
61Mike's RouteS 4a 9
62Hard WonE2 5c 1
63NocturneVS 4c 12
64Central RouteVS 4c *37
65Second Class ReturnE2 5c 6
66One Way TicketE2 5b 2
67ChanceE4 5c 1
68Direct RouteS 4a 43
69BackbreakerVD 8
70Sentry BoxS 4a 8
 MAIN FACE  
72Long Shanks LeapE1 5b 1
73Steps AreteS 4a 34
74The Purple RevracHS 4b **147
75Heart of DarknessE2 5b 1
76Blackberry WallHVS 5b 1
77BirdlineE1 5c  
78"Our Carver"7c  
79Rampage7b+ ***9
80Hot Lava7c  
81Simanon DirectHVS 4c **88
82SimianE3 5c 1
83Simanon direct directE1 5c 2
84MeccaHVS 5a *10
 Climb nameGradex
85Facing MeccaE2 5b 2
86The TrampolineHVS 4c 14
87Problem 8 Gila's WallV0 5a 3
88Problem 9 Merlin's ChimneyVB 4b 3
89Problem 13 Left side of Right AreteV2 5c 1
90Lesser Men6a 5
91Fair one7a 3
92Silva Grey the Other-wayE4 6a 1
93Silva GrayE2 6a *2
94Black SabbathE5 6a a2  
95Bored of wringE5 6a  
96Le Tour7a  
97Dead ExitE4 6a *2
98Traditional Values?E3 5c  
99Eyefull TowerE3 6a **38
100Eyefull Tower (Original Route)HVS 5a/a2 ***14
101High NoonE2 5c *6
102Mauritius7b  
103Black PantherE5 6b a3 **1
104Super IndirectE4 6a a2  
105Talking Heads7b 2
106Real live Wire7b 1
107Psycokiller7c+ ***5
108Wrings of Change7c *1
109Wrings of Change Extension7c *1
110Special RadiusA3  
 THE FORTRESS WALLS  
112ReneE4 6a 4
113Warrior6c+ ***90
114Friend or Foe?7a+ **10
115Slingshot7b+ **2
116Special OfferE3 6a 3
117Bump StartE3 5c  
118ScapegoatS 4a 12
119Pinnacle RouteVD 8
120Hypodermic Like ThisHS 4b *8
121Fortress IndirectS 4a 4
122Hypothermic Like ThatHVS 5a **3
123Fortress DirectVD 6
124AnthonyVS 4c 3
125Traitor's GateHS 4b *46
126Famous Last WordsE1 5b  
127Khyber WallE2 5c ***27
128Khyber Pass7a *1
 ORANGE SLAB  
130Young HuntingE1 5b 1
131Sarah LouiseE3 5b/c 1
132Juliet's BalconyHVS 5a 44
133The Crystal MazeE3 5c  
134Gone To Pot6c+  
135Beast of RevelationE1 4c 2
136Man of Double DeedHS 4b 18
137Lemon TreeHS 4b **52
 LEMON TREE SLABS  
139UnnamedS 4b 20
140The VandalE3 6a 10
141GorstHVS 5a 1
142PeterVD 100
143FiguzziHS 4b **128
144Star FoxHVS 5a *27
145ThorndykeHS 4b 17
146Mr. Kensuke MiyagiE1 6a 6
147JaneD 21
148SueM 29
149Sunset AreteVS 4c 119
150Cheese DiseaseE1 5a 24
151P.M.C.E1 5a 7
152RiskyHS 4b 10
153Forty FiveVD 4c 21
154Wall FlowerHS 4b 6
155Barny Rubles Risky FinishE1 5b **2
156SarahVD 4a 15
 THE TRAVERSES  
158Gather DarknessE3 5c **1
159Merlin's TraverseD 2
160CombineD 4a 2
161Reborn AgainIII **1
 BOULDERS ONT MORE  
163Cheesewring bouldersVB all **1
164Problem 24VB 4b 1
165Problem 25VB 4a 1
166Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7 *V3 6a 1
167Problem 15 *V0- 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14

An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03