Cheesewring Quarry

Climbs 155 – Rocktype Granite – Altitude 300m a.s.l – Faces S

Crag features
Quarried granite: very slippery when wet. Many excellent routes at all grades, on generally sound rock, with single- and multi-pitch routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Simanon Direct (HVS 5a), Eyefull Tower (E2 6a, or 5a with 1pt aid). There has been alot of re bolting work done here with the adition of some new sport routes.

There are kestrels(?) nesting at the top of Man of Double Deed/ Lemon Tree. 11/05/10

Access notes
Be wary of some of the older pegs; back up if possible.

Located on the S slopes of Stowe Hill, 0.5miles from the village of Minions. A rough track leads from the village to the main quarry area - 15 mins walk.

The Duchy of cornwall are now not allowing groups groups to use the quarry. This is due to one of the mine shafts colapsing, which in turn has made a large hole in the track. This hole is impressive and dangerous but with a 30ft perimiter fence around it. This should'nt affect normal climbers (those of use that love quarries, climbing in our own free time). Groups under insturuction looking to use it should use a lower track from the car-park wich bring you out on the east side of the quarry by Sunset Arete Wall (P95 in the Cheesewring Guide)
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Guidebooks
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014), Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbers' Guide (2012), West Country Climbs (2010),
Out of print: Cheesewring and South East Cornwall (1998), North Devon and Cornwall (1988)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 SOUTHERN OUTCROP 
2Left AreteS 4b
3Best Wishes, Yours Hopefully, Etc etc...E2 5c
4Learner RouteD 3b
5Variation Start 2S 4c
6Variation StartVD 4b *
7Moss TrapE1 5a
8Half Route Half Boulder ProblemE3 5c
9Destruction in a Granite Settingf7B **
10Central CornerHVS 5b
11DebutanteE3 6a *
12OldboyHVS 5b
13Corner SeatHS 4b
14The Garden GateHVS 5a *
15Garden WallHS 4c
16Scot FreeE1 5c
17Right AreteHS 4b
 BAY ENTRY 
19Chocolate HobnobHVS 5a
20Half Man Half BiscuitE3 6a
21Petherwin Brothers and a SisterE1 6a
22Dwarfs DreamE1 5c
23Thumb Sparg TraverseV4
24Problem 2V1 5c
25Problem 3 Overhanging AreteV1 5c
26Problem 4V0 5b
27SnatchHVS 5b
28Not a Patch on Harry PatchHVS 5b *
29Family GuyVS 5a
 THE BAY 
31FingerbobE2 5c
32WatchmanE3 5c
33Crucifier7a+
34Cosmic Joker7b
35Pooh PoohE3 5b
36Sheep Shit ShooterE3 6a
37SidekickVS 4c
 WESTERN OUTCROP (LEFT SIDE) 
39Rabbit AreteVS 4c
40Feline Adventures6b+
4133 Chillies6b
42Daisy's FlapjackF6a+ 5b
43Foxglove AreteVD 4b
44Stonewood6a+
45Volkers VisitS 4b
 AGENT PROVOCATUER WALL 
47Gay Orange BagVD
48West Point6b
49Potential Energy6c+
50Micro Generator6c
51Double Agent7a ***
52Double TroubleE3 6a
53Agent Provocateur7b **
54Trouble with LichenE3 6a *
55Corner RouteS 4a
56Space Hopper6c+ *
57Hopscotch7a *
58Sweet Surrender7c *
59Tag7b **
 WESTREN OUTCROP (CENTRAL BAY) 
61Mike's RouteS 4a
62Hard WonE2 5c
63NocturneVS 4c
64Central RouteVS 4c *
65Second Class ReturnE2 5c
66One Way TicketE2 5b
67ChanceE4 5c
68Direct RouteS 4a
69BackbreakerVD
70Sentry BoxS 4a
 MAIN FACE 
72Long Shanks LeapE1 5b
73Steps AreteS 4a
74The Purple RevracHS 4b **
75Heart of DarknessE2 5b
76Blackberry WallHVS 5b
77BirdlineE1 5c
78"Our Carver"7c
79Rampage7b+ ***
80Hot Lava7c
81Simanon DirectHVS 4c **
82SimianE3 5c
83Simanon direct directE1 5c
84MeccaHVS 5a *
85Facing MeccaE2 5b
86The TrampolineHVS 4c
87Problem 8 Gila's WallV0 5a
88Problem 9 Merlin's ChimneyVB 4b
89Problem 13 Left side of Right AreteV2 5c
90Lesser Men6a
91Fair one7a
92Silva Grey the Other-wayE4 6a
93Silva GrayE2 6a *
94Black SabbathE5 6a a2
95Bored of wringE5 6a
96Le Tour7a
97Dead ExitE4 6a *
98Traditional Values?E3 5c
99Eyefull TowerE3 6a **
100Eyefull Tower (Original Route)HVS 5a/a2 ***
101High NoonE2 5c *
102Mauritius7b
103Black PantherE5 6b a3 **
104Super IndirectE4 6a a2
105Talking Heads7b
106Real live Wire7b
107Psycokiller7c+ ***
108Wrings of Change7c *
109Wrings of Change Extension7c *
110Special RadiusA3
 THE FORTRESS WALLS 
112ReneE4 6a
113Warrior6c+ ***
114Friend or Foe?7a+ **
115Slingshot7b+ **
116Special OfferE3 6a
117Bump StartE3 5c
118ScapegoatS 4a
119Pinnacle RouteVD
120Hypodermic Like ThisHS 4b *
121Fortress IndirectS 4a
122Hypothermic Like ThatHVS 5a **
123Fortress DirectVD
124AnthonyVS 4c
125Traitor's GateHS 4b *
126Famous Last WordsE1 5b
127Khyber WallE2 5c ***
128Khyber Pass7a *
 ORANGE SLAB 
130Young HuntingE1 5b
131Sarah LouiseE3 5b/c
132Juliet's BalconyHVS 5a
133The Crystal MazeE3 5c
134Gone To Pot6c+
135Beast of RevelationE1 4c
136Man of Double DeedHS 4b
137Lemon TreeHS 4b **
 LEMON TREE SLABS 
139UnnamedS 4b
140The VandalE3 6a
141GorstHVS 5a
142PeterVD
143FiguzziHS 4b **
144Star FoxHVS 5a *
145ThorndykeHS 4b
146Mr. Kensuke MiyagiE1 6a
147JaneD
148SueM
149Sunset AreteVS 4c
150Cheese DiseaseE1 5a
151P.M.C.E1 5a
152RiskyHS 4b
153Forty FiveVD 4c
154Wall FlowerHS 4b
155Barny Rubles Risky FinishE1 5b **
156SarahVD 4a
 THE TRAVERSES 
158Gather DarknessE3 5c **
159Merlin's TraverseD
160CombineD 4a
161Reborn AgainIII **
 BOULDERS ONT MORE 
163Cheesewring bouldersVB all **
164Dead Exit's Start - Problem 7V3 6a
165Problem 15V0- 4c
166Problem 24VB 4b
167Problem 25VB 4a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Gave Trouble With Lichen a good clean today 30.06.2014
Tom Last - 30/Jun/14
An excellent and varied venue. I've spent around 4 weeks there and there's still tons to do. Alot of the classics in the quarry are well rounded due to the Commandos training there in the 1940's with hob nails, be wary of some of the classic route gradings. This place is pretty popular with groups but they are mostly confined to the southern area and the lower part of the main wall. There is an excellent little cafe, plenty of parking and he sells the guide book too. (cheesewring and south east cornwall). Heger Tor is near and provides some excellent gritty bouldering. A top day out.
stuart wilkes - 29/Jul/03
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These details were last updated on 12/May/2010

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